View Full Version : Engine Oil for 2005 D3 V8.
carlschmid2002
16th May 2015, 08:15 PM
Time to change the oil in the beast. I have travelled 10000km in the last 5 months and used enough fuel to fund the new Dubai Mall. It has been great fun though. I was looking at the Castol Edge fully synthetic. There are two variables 5-30w $75 for 5 litres and 0-40w $85 for 5 litres. Is synthetic the way to go. Any advice appreciated.
Marmoset
16th May 2015, 10:12 PM
I'm using Castrol edge titanium in mine 5w/30, no problems. Repco have 30% off for RAC members this weekend so I've just picked up some for $42 for 5 litres. Didn't buy a filter though as it was $60! Service isn't due to Sept but I pick up the oil when it's on offer.
carlschmid2002
16th May 2015, 10:34 PM
I got a filer from roverlord for $14 plus $10 postage. I will get a sump gasket from LR or $13. I have another trip on next weekend so I will drop the oil this week. I intend to change the plugs every 20000.
Nomad9
16th May 2015, 11:46 PM
Hi There,
          I use Royal Purple HPS 5W-30, never had a problem, change the filter every 5000 klms, change the oil every 10,000, from what I can see the engine looks like new through the rocker cover.  Castrol Edge as mentioned before is a good product, used this before without a problem, I am a bit biased working for BP, however still a good product. 
 
"Sump gasket", interesting, I am assuming you mean the gasket on the sump plug or do you intend to remove the sump?  I change the sump plug (every other change)which by default replaces the o-ring seal around the sump plug. 
Plugs every 20,000 I thought they were 80,000 klms, this seems a bit too often, personally I would be looking at around 40,000 klms.  Make sure you get the right ones and also make sure you put a small amount of the right anti-seize around the plug threads.  If they are put in "dry" and left for to long when the plugs are withdrawn they can pull the thread out of the head, or at least damage the thread.
Don't forget the coolant............
Epic pooh
17th May 2015, 06:42 AM
The plugs are iridium long life - mine were first changed at 140,000km / 8 years.  And honestly they did not look like they needed changing at that point. 
I use penrite hpr5 in mine.
Nomad9
17th May 2015, 09:03 AM
Hi Mick,
         Right......I tried to find the Iridium log life for mine, mine being the V6, I couldn't find the equivalent so I ended up with the LR standard plugs in there, bought them from LR.  140k is a long time to leave a plug in a head especially without any sort of thread protection........... don't you think?
Cheers Marty
Epic pooh
17th May 2015, 10:48 AM
It's a shockingly long time !  But it is the design interval and they came out with no fuss (which may not be everyone's experience).
Nomad9
17th May 2015, 01:47 PM
Hi Mick,
       The two closest to the bulkhead for me were really bad, I had a lot more luck getting them out with the engine warm / hot tan I did outright cold.
carlschmid2002
17th May 2015, 01:47 PM
Yes I meant the gasket for the drain plug. I was going to change the plugs at 20000 of my ownership which will be 200000 km on the car. I am going to do all the fluids then so I then have a baseline for future reference. This first 10000 will be just oil and filters. Air filter, pollen filter and oil filter. Is there anything else I should be thinking of. I was going to to transmission service at 200000 as well. I think it has the smell pan. It doesn't feel like plastic. I might get all the bits and then get a transmission place to do it as I want to ensure it is drained and filled properly. Any tips with this. I am going to get it up on jacks in the next few weeks and check all bushes etc and brake pads. Air suspension is working fine. One of the rear ones has some damage to the boot but works fine. Any other tips greatly appreciated.
Nomad9
17th May 2015, 02:19 PM
Hi Carl,
        Maybe consider a fuel filter as well, my own personal advice would be to stick with the Lifeguard 6 oil in the tranny, others have experimented with other oils successfully, it could be a costly experiment.  A couple of fellow D3 owners I know have had to replace the front diff, I now change my oil a bit more regularly to try and prevent the problems they've had.  The front diff only has an egg cup full of oil in it so this to me would be cheap insurance.  I use the Royal Purple 75W-90 oil in both diffs and the Syncromax in the transfer case, still use the LG 6 in the transmission.
If you replace the pads make sure you pull the brake pad sensor out square to the pad, they break quite easily, cheapish to replace, just a PITA, especially if you do crack one, I had an annoying random bong gong on until I replaced the cracked one.
For all my sins I use the Toyota coolant, personally I find it to be the best, like the Toyota black sealant, good stuff.
LandyAndy
17th May 2015, 04:20 PM
I would price 20lt synthetic oil at a truck parts suplier.
I used to run Castrol Edge in my TD5s.Found I could get the same spec synthetic oil from truck shops for $100 to $120 for 20lts.
You will find the diesel spec oil is actually better,the only difference usually is more detergent to deal with diesel soot.Harmless in a petrol engine.
Andrew
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