DIFF OIL LEAKS

[rangie5litre]

G'day all, both my F & R diffs are leaking a little oil on my '84 Rangie, looks to be coming from the pinion seal. It's gone beyond acceptable 'seepage 8O and I was wondering if this is a specialist type job or a basic at home in the driveway type job?

All help appreciated! Cheers Scott 8)

[RoverOne]

Originally posted by rangie5litre
G'day all, both my F & R diffs are leaking a little oil on my '84 Rangie, looks to be coming from the pinion seal. It's gone beyond acceptable 'seepage 8O and I was wondering if this is a specialist type job or a basic at home in the driveway type job?

All help appreciated! Cheers Scott 8)

Hi Scott,

Not a difficult job for the DIY handy bloke at all. Have done a number of them on my old '76 Rangie and back & front on the Defender.

Simply undo the 4 nyloc nuts on the tail shaft at the diff, drop down, place large breaker bar or tyre lever in protuding bolts and undo large nut holding pinion flange in (this takes some grunt as on about 148lbs torque (check manual for exact to refit), but can be done if jam the breaker bar against chassis or where ever can be done, like your mates knee :wink:

Tap on one side of seal with a drift/ screw driver taking care but don't pussy foot around give a good tap, and withdraw. Wipe inside of diff housing and clear of old dirt and grime.

Examine pinion flange for for groove on part that goes into seal. Like mine had a fair groove, get some cloth emery and slowly sand until smooth again (realy smooth) you can rig up a jig on a drill in a bench stand easier but not neccessary but quicker.

Buy a seal with twin retaining clip seal of rubber not leather seal as they weap if not driven regularly as get stiff when not hot and used a lot.

Refit in reverse (drift seal in gently tapping evenly on all sides until in the same distance as original which you noted when pulling it out) and use new nylock nuts when put tale shaft back on

I'm a salesman not a mechanic its not that hard have a go, have fun.

Cheers
Bryce 8)

[camel_landy]

It's quite an easy job to do but make sure you also make sure that the breather isn't blocked. The only times I've had a weaping seal, it has been caused by a blocked breather.

HTH

Mark.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

if your pinion flange is grooved ....there are places that sell sleeves that fit over the seal surface....much quicker and easier than sitting there sanding.....

not sure where to get them however.....i think bearing places sell them.

[Defender200Tdi]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>if your pinion flange is grooved ....there are places that sell sleeves that fit over the seal surface....much quicker and easier than sitting there sanding.....

not sure where to get them however.....i think bearing places sell them.[/b][/quote]


They're called speedi-sleeves, and they can be had from bearing places like CBC etc. About $30 a shot and they work a treat. :wink:


Paul style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

[discowhite]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>place large breaker bar or tyre lever in protuding bolts and undo large nut holding pinion flange in (this takes some grunt as on about 148lbs torque (check manual for exact to refit), but can be done if jam the breaker bar against chassis or where ever can be done, like your mates knee [/b][/quote]


this is easier if you get someone in the car with their foot on the brake!
alot less painfull.

[Hellspawn]

Originally posted by discowhite

this is easier if you get someone in the car with their foot on the brake!
alot less painfull.

Still difficult to do when cramped under there trying to get the nut to undo. When I did HS's it was on a steep drive and levelled with ramps so there was reasonable clearance to get my "extension handle" (3ft long waterpipe :wink: ) on the breaker bar.

Often wondered if there was only flat ground and just yourself whether the vehicle could be used to undo the the nut by creeping back with the socket on the nut and breaker bar jammed up the chassis rail ? :?

[rangie5litre]

Thanks All for the advice, I'll check the breathers[could try some of my Ventolin maybe? 8O ] errr just kidding!

Sort of on topic, does anyone use synthetic gear oils in the diffs and transfer case?

Cheers & Thanks, Scott.

[Defender200Tdi]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Sort of on topic, does anyone use synthetic gear oils in the diffs and transfer case?[/b][/quote]

I use a semi synthetic since the last oil change. The first thing I noticed was a significant drop in noise level from the transfer case. That could only be a good thing!!


Paul style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

[rangie5litre]

Thanks Paul, that's what I hoped! I've removed a lot of deadening material[got VERY wet!] and now the t/case is audible above the exhaust note 8O



Cheers Scott. 8)

[shaunp]

Sort of on topic, does anyone use synthetic gear oils in the diffs and transfer case?

Always, Castrol SAF-XA in the diffs and Syntrax or Penrite 10/tenths 75/90 in the Transfer

[Ralf_the_RR]

Back on topic.

I made an L shaped bracket that bolts to the bottom of the flat setion of the diff, and the drive flange.

This stops the whole thing turning, so no need for brakes, chocks etc.
Allows "easier" loosening/tigtening of the pinion nut.

[Hellspawn]

You able to show us Harry what you've made ?

[camel_landy]

....bottle jack on the breaker bar and the missus with her foot on the break is what I used.

Mark

[Ralf_the_RR]

Originally posted by Hellspawn
You able to show us Harry what you've made ?

Don't have access to a camera at the moment.
It's in the shed. It's cold, and dark, and I'm not going to get it now!

It's basically a L shaped bracket
From memory it's about 120mm wide.
The bottom is about 100mm, and the vertical section is about 150mm.

It's been a long time since I made this, so these figures are very rough.
I used a piece of cardboard to make a template.

The bottom section has two holes drilled to allow bolts to mount it to the flat section of the diff.
Not sure what these holes are used for on the rear, but on the front, they are for the steering damper.

The vertical section has 4 holes that bolt to the drive flange.
And a large centre hole for access to the pinion nut.

[shaunp]

I just use a piece or angle iron that is long enough to touch the ground from the flange, 2 holes to pick up the bolt holes in the flange, a bit ground out so you can get the socket on the nut.