No power to 12v aux socket & phone integration

[austeve01]

I have an 07 HSE normally performs perfectly but for some inexplicable reason (to me anyway) decided to have dummy spit with rh 12v aux socket (centre console) & phone system losing all power to them. I've checked fuses f34/52/59 it looks OK with no visible signs of broken wire. I don't know whether these two things are connected in anyway but both are not working and were working up until a few hours ago.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Steve

[rufusking]

You could check the relay. More familiar with the D4 but likely to be R1 or R3 behind the glovebox.

[austeve01]

You could check the relay. More familiar with the D4 but likely to be R1 or R3 behind the glovebox.

Sorry to be a pain but ... got the R1 & R3 out ... how do you check their serviceability?

[rufusking]

Those relays disconnect the supply to the lighter sockets at some time after the vehicle is switched off or locked and switch back in when a door is opened or vehicle is unlocked. Generally referred to as Battery or Power Saver relays.
If you don't have any test equipment (multimeter, power source & load/globe) pop them back in, sit in the car, close all the doors and lock it (or wait a couple of minutes). With your finger gently on the relay you should feel a light click as it connects or disconnects. You may even hear it but there are a number of other things that switch on and off so it may be hard to tell which one it is.
Unlock the car or open a door and see if you can feel if activate.

[austeve01]

Those relays disconnect the supply to the lighter sockets at some time after the vehicle is switched off or locked and switch back in when a door is opened or vehicle is unlocked. Generally referred to as Battery or Power Saver relays.
If you don't have any test equipment (multimeter, power source & load/globe) pop them back in, sit in the car, close all the doors and lock it (or wait a couple of minutes). With your finger gently on the relay you should feel a light click as it connects or disconnects. You may even hear it but there are a number of other things that switch on and off so it may be hard to tell which one it is.
Unlock the car or open a door and see if you can feel if activate.

Thanks for your help here. I tried what you suggested but to no avail ... couldn't feel any clicking in either R1 or R3 when I opened the door but interior light comes on. Tried it several times and now discovered to my chagrin .. the reversing camera video screen now tells me it's got 'No Signal'. I'll get a sparkie out to have a look.

Really appreciate your help.

[rufusking]

Someone familiar with the D3/4 and has a good OBD diagnostic tool will make the job quicker and cheaper. More likely a fault/s will be logged. They tend to cascade so the earlier fault hopefully will lead to the root cause. Good luck.

[sniegy]

It will most likely be a fuse as the Dealer fit phone system takes power from the power socket under the centre console.
Topic says fuse 19 in the CJB.
Check that & see how ya go.

HTH
Cheers

[austeve01]

It will most likely be a fuse as the Dealer fit phone system takes power from the power socket under the centre console.
Topic says fuse 19 in the CJB.
Check that & see how ya go.

HTH
Cheers

Thanks sniegy
Alas fuse 19 seems to be intact so looks like I'll be following 'rufusking' suggestion to get someone with D3 experience with an OBD tool to investigate.

[LRD414]

Maybe try swapping in a different fuse or a new fuse anyway? It can be hard to tell just visually if the fuse is ok and a fuse is cheap. Alternatively, check with a multimeter to the test points on the fuse.

Scott

[austeve01]

Maybe try swapping in a different fuse or a new fuse anyway? It can be hard to tell just visually if the fuse is ok and a fuse is cheap. Alternatively, check with a multimeter to the test points on the fuse.

Scott

Thanks Scott

I'll give that a try. I'm not too savvy with things electrical but if you test the fuse are you actually looking for an infinite resistance reading to show that the fuse is faulty?

Regards
Steve

[Tombie]

A simple continuity test should do it...

[LRD414]

if you test the fuse are you actually looking for an infinite resistance reading to show that the fuse is faulty?

Steve, pretty much yes and as Tombie says, continuity test will show this. As an example, this video shows you multiple ways to test a fuse including the continuity test. Just skip the test light stuff if you don't have one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKgmIcmp7eo

Cheers,
Scott

[Graeme]

Are any of the accessory outlets working? If so then the relay (R203) is OK. If none are working then either the relay has failed or link 17E (engine bay - 50A) may have blown.

However the cigarette lighter outlet, which IIRC is the driver's side outlet, uses fuse 55P and relay R132 fed by FL 18E (50A).

[austeve01]

Are any of the accessory outlets working? If so then the relay (R203) is OK. If none are working then either the relay has failed or link 17E (engine bay - 50A) may have blown.

However the cigarette lighter outlet, which IIRC is the driver's side outlet, uses fuse 55P and relay R132 fed by FL 18E (50A).

Just removed fuse 55P ... this is the unserviceable fuse !! All I have to do now is get a new one. There doesn't seem to be a spare 15 amp fuse in the panel.

Your advice and help has been much appreciated as well as other members that have contributed. Just hoping that it fixes all the issues. We'll see!

[rufusking]

The question remains, why did the fuse blow? Don't be tempted to put in a larger amperage fuse.
Di you ever get power back on to the reversing camera? Is an aftermarket camera or LR original?

[austeve01]

The question remains, why did the fuse blow? Don't be tempted to put in a larger amperage fuse.
Di you ever get power back on to the reversing camera? Is an aftermarket camera or LR original?


I've just finished replacing the 55P fuse with the same value fuse (15 amps) and I have:-

1. power to the 12v aux socket (cigarette socket next to driver's seat)
2. recognition of the phone system.
3. power to the aftermarket video screen BUT "NO SIGNAL" shown on the screen thus no picture from the rear view camera. It's a cable connection to the camera. Actually to tell you the truth there has always been power to the video screen just not the signal.

Not sure what next.

[austeve01]

Looks as though the problem with loss of signal to the video screen has been rectified.

I checked all fuses in the rear compartment ... all appeared ok. Then checked the cable to the rear view camera which seemed intact. Left everything for a while. Started the car, switched on the video screen to find all is working perfectly.

What caused the problems in the first place. I don't know. However I've discovered the Hema navigator I use (which powers from the faulty 12v socket) has a faulty charger.

[LRD414]

However I've discovered the Hema navigator I use (which powers from the faulty 12v socket) has a faulty charger.


Good candidate for the cause. How did you determine that it's faulty?

Scott

[austeve01]

Good candidate for the cause. How did you determine that it's faulty?

Scott


Noticed a crack in the charger housing where the cable enters .. seemed loose. Checked it out in another vehicle .. didn't work. Used another charger from a similar device and it worked. Checked that charger out in the disco & no problems.

[austeve01]

The video screen has now turned problematic. Started the car this morning and pleased to see the video working with a picture. However reversing up the driveway, all of a sudden "No signal" dispayed on the video screen. Checked the fuses again but all found to be ok. This afternoon started car again and video screen showing a picture again. 4 mins later and "No signal". Now for the sparkie.