Diff Swap

[Grimace]

Ok rover people are you ready for me dillemma style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif
I am looking at the Diff swap options as there are sum 39" Iroks that are damn cheap and want them style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

So far looking at the GU Nissans Front and rear
Or the toyo 80series front and rear, but doin a custom Nissan 9" centre conversion on the front axle.
Or the dux nuts of setups (for me) Volvo Portals.

The toyo idea is good cause its means drivers side drop and all drivelines line up still.
The nissan gear s good cause its strong but its semi floating setup and the front hubs arnt designed for full time 4wd setups.
The volvos are orsum just cost more $$$ upfront.

Eaither way the Nissan and toyo idea is gonna cost me around $3000 to setup both front and rear then add sum for wleding mounts and stuff on the diffs to suit the rover. they will also give me a wider more availible range of wheels to choose from

The portals will prob cost me closer to $6000 but I will have locker included, but then I also need sum custom wheels made up.

Either way I go about all this it means I can sell my current Maxi axles and cranked (rovertym $$$) front radius arms my 16x8 wheels and tyres to recouperate sum of the costs.

So a price brake down of the items IMHO would be around
Front Maxis axles with everything exceot the locking actuator (currently unlocked) includes heat treated and ring welded AUE2522 cvs and all brand new internals (done about 4000ks) - $2000 disc to disc fully setup
Rear Maxi Axles and locker, done same millages as front and all new internals aswell - $2000 disc to disc fully setup ready to bolt inplace
Front cranked rovertym radius arms suit upto 4" lift currently fitted with Haultech slotted bushes (lots more flex) - $500 have a look at the cost of these thing new from rovertym 8O
16X8 White sunnies x5 (sprayed Black) - $400

All the above prices are offcourse ONO or should i say Or Best Offer style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif
Then i will also sell me Maxxis Creepy Crawlers (37") for about $1000

this should cover the axles and new tyres but I will need to fork out sum more $$$ for the fabrication and heaps more $$$ if i decide to go ARB lockers front or rear or both.

I have afew contacts that I am gonan start speaking to reguarding this and see how it all pans out style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif

[timberwolf_302]

Go the Landcruiser setup. It has too many +'s going for it.

[DaveS3]

If you go cruiser, make sure its crusier outers with a nissan centre.

Dude seriously consider those D60's, you'd be ****ed if you didn't spend the extra $$$ at the time for a fully custom setup only to break GU stuff.
Some of the Winch comp guys are now breaking Hubs, and thats only with 36's and power. Imagine Rock and 39's?

Maybe even a rear series sals centre (cheap), with new tubes and rangie outers with Longs? That should come in under $3K with locker, then you can keep your wheels as well to save $$$.

Thats what ISUZUROVER is doing I think?
That would probably be the same as a GU or, but Sals is stronger centre.
4.7 Ratio to style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

Dave.

[Grimace]

them sals still have weaker CW&P...
The toyos give me the easy wheel option and the iroks are on toyo rims allready...
I already have a buyer for my front maxi and my current rover 16x8" wheels

I might just pull it off the road sell all the diffs and tyres and suspension arms and start again style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif

[DaveS3]

Originally posted by AnthonyParra
them sals still have weaker CW&P...
The toyos give me the easy wheel option and the iroks are on toyo rims allready...
I already have a buyer for my front maxi and my current rover 16x8" wheels

I might just pull it off the road sell all the diffs and tyres and suspension arms and start again :)

WTF - Dude Sals = D60 = Stronger than Nissan/Crusier

Might be easier to start again. If you do PLAN it and try to stick to it.
Start from a chassis and go from there, then you can build something and know its build reliably.

Go Sals style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

Dave

[Grimace]

Originally posted by DaveS3
WTF - Dude Sals = D60 = Stronger than Nissan/Crusier
Go Sals :D

Dave

yeah i learnt that style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif but i want to be able to do track side repairs easily, hence I want to be able use standard yota gear, its full floating and the entire centres can be swapped track side in under 3 hours style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

I got both toy diffs front and rear sorted and even considering goin chromo longs for the front and keeping the original axles and cvs as spaers style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

[BMac]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>entire centres can be swapped track side in under 3 hours[/b][/quote]

Are you planning to carry GU/Yota centers on your trips?

The rear end from a defender is coil/disk brake/Salisbury and you dont often hear of the R&P blowing up. If it does, and you carry a spare, you will just need two big mother screw drivers ( or a spreader) to prize the housing apart to get the center out style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif


Bruce.

[Grimace]

I am not even doin the nissan centre conversion anymore

The toyota Hipinion is plenty strong on forwards its reverse that becomes a weak point... I dont wanna be doin much reversing... if i have to reverse sumthing isnt right :wink:
Reson being Toys part are cheap and easy to access (for me) and also later on i can get the longfield 30spline axles at a damn good price too style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

I will most probably start striping the underside out tommorow style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif