D1 TDI diagnostics

[loanrangie]

Can anything be done on a D1 TDI like changing alarm functions ?

[sierrafery]

Here's what you can do with a dedicated tool(from hawkeye menu), most of them have enable/disable options


Menus - Security
Security - 10AS
Defender
Defender (L316) (2007 -)
Discovery I

-Live Data

-Programming:
GEMS Immobilisation
Spider Immobilisation
EDC Immobilisation
DDS Immobilisation
Catalyst Overheat Warning
Land Rover Defender
Discovery Interior Lights
Defender Interior Lights
Pulsed Horn
Hazards ON Alarm Triggered
Hazards ON Alarm Arm / Disarm
Passive Immobilisation
CDL Operative With Alarm Armed
Immobiliser Off With Ignition
Disarm Alarm / Immob. With Key
Disarm Alarm Only with Key
Unlock Vehicle - No Disarm
Mislock Sounder
LED Indication of Alarm Trigger

-Transmitters

[loanrangie]

So no permanent disable of the immobiliser then :(.

[Rupert Prior]

it is possible to change the wiring so the alarm only controls the central locking.

[sierrafery]

So no permanent disable of the immobiliser then :(.

i'm not sure as i dont have a D1 but i think those first menus(maybe EDC immobilisation for you) are enable/disable so maybe you can

[Rick122]

So no permanent disable of the immobiliser then :(.

If you are having problems with the car not starting due to the immobiliser, you can bypass that part of the circuit and run a wire straight to the starter solenoid.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/05/148.jpg

Behind the RH kick panel you will find a bank of relays. Look for the yellow holder (and yellow relay if yours is still the original) and the brown wire/red trace. This wire goes to the immobiliser and then on to the starter solenoid. Cut it and solder or crimp a wire and take it through the firewall and connect it to the starter solenoid.
The black wire I'm holding goes straight to the starter solenoid. I left the original wire there in the harness and just taped it up out of the way.

[loanrangie]

Had this issue 3 years ago and i just ran a separate switch on the dash direct to solenoid as a work around but if possible would like to fix it properly, tried a few idea's of bridging wires before the alarm module but nothing so far has worked.

[Robmacca]

If you are having problems with the car not starting due to the immobiliser, you can bypass that part of the circuit and run a wire straight to the starter solenoid.

http://postimg.org/image/zd20lg243/

Behind the RH kick panel you will find a bank of relays. Look for the yellow holder (and yellow relay if yours is still the original) and the brown wire/red trace. This wire goes to the immobiliser and then on to the starter solenoid. Cut it and solder or crimp a wire and take it through the firewall and connect it to the starter solenoid.
The black wire I'm holding goes straight to the starter solenoid. I left the original wire there in the harness and just taped it up out of the way.

Just curious, but what about the Wire to the Injection Pump? Has this got to be considered at all?

[loanrangie]

My issue doesnt affect the starter circuit and i can happily crank til the battery is flat but getting no power to the pump solenoid or glow plug relay.

[Rick122]

There's another fix for that, I'll have a look and see what I can find

[Rick122]

Her is a good writeup on the immobiliser and how to repair or bypass it.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=86

[loanrangie]

No good with late D1's , the immobiliser is built into the alarm module which makes it hard to bypass.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

[Rick122]

If you read the article, It explains where the alarm module is located and why they play up. If you do a search in Google, you will find heaps of info on how to bypass the alarm/immobiliser. You can even buy a bypass plug from eBay. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=161586937300

[pop058]

If you read the article, It explains where the alarm module is located and why they play up. If you do a search in Google, you will find heaps of info on how to bypass the alarm/immobiliser. You can even buy a bypass plug from eBay. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=161586937300

That one on eBay is the spider bypass and I recently bought one from the local LR stealer for about $11 bucks

[loanrangie]

Again the bypasd is for the spider unit which i dont have, i have read the article and even contacted the author and none of it works.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

[Rick122]

Have you seen this post, it might help with your if you don't have the spider.
http://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-i-39/immobilizer-pass-when-spider-box-not-present-60539/

[loanrangie]

Yep tried that too.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

[Rick122]

Hey just trying to help. If you have already managed to bypass it with a switch, id just look into making it more permanent by switching the glow relay and pump stop from the key and be done with it.

[loanrangie]

I know , i have exhausted all avenues apart from replacing the alarm module.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

[edddo]

Had this issue 3 years ago and i just ran a separate switch on the dash direct to solenoid as a work around but if possible would like to fix it properly, tried a few idea's of bridging wires before the alarm module but nothing so far has worked.


Ah that explains why I have a switch that (de)activates the fuel solenoid.:cool: I had thought it was the last owners effort at installing a security/kill. He must have also had alarm/immobiliser problems. It seems a reliable workaround thus far.

[edddo]

Not sure if this is helpful re the later D1's? See below.
It is from the lr4x4 link in this thread
Loanrangie did you try this?


I just spent 3 days looking for a little black box called the spider. I have a 1998 Discovery 1 and had the problems you described. Won't start, let sit starts ect. I tore out my dash in 3 degree weather because it finally became a 5000 pound paper weight and would not start at all. You can imagine by displeasure when I finally got the center dash free and there was no little black box. After many quires and hours looking at land rover circuit drawings I finally found out that in 1997 or 1998 land rover built the engine immobilizer circuit into the alarm module Z163 and used a transistor instead of a relay. It is behind the dash trim under the glove box. It has 2 connectors C225 and C274. If you solder a jumper between pins 10 and 11 the truck will start. Please let people know that at least 1998 up does not have a spider relay deap in the dash.
Thanks for the info though it got me started down the right path, just didn't need to take the side trip through the dash.