JB's 1963 2A Build

[JayBee75]

Well I've started on the weekend and we are off!!!! Wanted to start a fresh Thread as a few have said its useful to document the build and keep a blog so to speak so here i am.....

Sunday was a good day albeit slow but happy. No surprises and seems that her background is what i have been told. All original i don't think she's been pulled apart before. With work and family commitments and work that needs to be done on her i will be happy with a 3 year resto at best. thanks again for advice, offers and help looking forward to the journey, my 7 yo son chipped in today he's not bad with a spanner as he has already had experience with my motorbikes.

I am still in two minds about what length of Resto I will go to. I welcome opinions, I am very open minded so will not take offence on any recommendations. To be honest I am up in the air on the body side of things. The resto I want to make sure mechanically she is A1 ( I am a perfectionist) so clean painted and mechanically at its best. However I love the originality of her so I am thinking to keep the paint and body as she is for now.

However parts of the body, sils, rear tub need to be fixed up as they are badly bent or split..... I am not sure what to do here????
I would like to use as many original bits including screws etc all cleaned up, restore the gal, and go the rat rod look ( best description I can reference for the look) with the original paint. Welcome any members to come have a look and give me opinions and expertise as the body and paint there is nothing to cut back or polish she's bare!
Cheers
JB

[SII Josh]

Look forward to following your resto JB,

I got a lot of my inspiration from reading the restos grey ghost and debruiser are doing.

Don forget to post pics 😃

[crackers]

Hmm, you've got a slight head start on me (I've yet to get Wombat home). However, shall we make it a race? :twisted: Don't worry, you'll win.

Like you, I'm not sure of what level to do her to though you're starting with a better base - for example, I've no choice but to repaint her and the engine head is sitting loose on the block so engine rebuild here I come. Decisions will be made as I get to them ... starting with a bare chassis.

I love those trolleys you've got the wheels on, should provide a lot more space to work on her. What are they worth?

[JayBee75]

Hmm, you've got a slight head start on me (I've yet to get Wombat home). However, shall we make it a race? :twisted: Don't worry, you'll win.

Like you, I'm not sure of what level to do her to though you're starting with a better base - for example, I've no choice but to repaint her and the engine head is sitting loose on the block so engine rebuild here I come. Decisions will be made as I get to them ... starting with a bare chassis.

I love those trolleys you've got the wheels on, should provide a lot more space to work on her. What are they worth?

Thanks Crackers, going to try to manage the build so I ensure I enjoy it, as I am a very clinical person who wants a certain result, however I don't necessarily have the experience to achieve it. So I need to be patient rather than be disappointed with the end result.

The trolley's I got from repco for $160 I think for the 4. Due to my garage I need to make sure the car is movable, however I would recommend if you have the extra coin to get the more expensive jack style / race car ones as it takes a bit to still move it, they are great once you have the wheels turned into the right direction, so still worth it compared to not being able to shift the car.

Cheers
JB

[crackers]

I think you'll love them JB. For a few years there, I was building two boats, a 14 footer and a 16 footer in my shed, both at the same time with only enough room to work on one side of a boat and barely enough room to get around the end. I got around that with coasters on the building frame and just moved the things as needed. It's possibly a bad sign but I sold both boats before finishing them. What killed the projects was the need to start from nothing with no use from them until completion. For this reason, I'm wary of taking Wombat back to a series of boxes of parts and then starting a rebuild, you need to be able to play as you work through the project even if it's just sitting in the driver's seat and making brrmmm brrmmm noises.

When I was in the Sydney MG Car Club, we had a 'garage visit' to a bloke who had restored a succession of T series MGs. Someone asked him how he managed to keep the projects going and how he managed to do so many. His answer? Do something every night, even if it's just cleaning a greasy bolt, wiping something down or pulling something off the car.

Some years ago now, I rebuilt an MGB and converted her to RHD. One of my best moves was to get the taps and dies needed to clean up the threads of nuts, bolts and stud - I didn't buy a set, just bought them as I needed them. This meant that rather than struggling with nasty threads, they were always clean and fresh and reassembly was a breeze. I'll be doing that again.

[flyinglandrover]

Looking forward to your resto! Just post plenty of pics!
Good luck!

[gromit]

If you keep an eye on Gumtree and the for sale section here you will find that 'projects' come up where someone has stripped the car down to the last nut & bolt then lost momentum.
Several years later it comes up for sale but it will take someone many trips with a trailer to collect because it's in hundreds of pieces in dozens of boxes.

I am often working outside on Land Rovers so I tend to work on one corner at a time (for brakes, hub seals etc.) then maybe steering then the engine etc.
If you do need to move it on, or just to a new location, in a hurry there isn't much needed to get it rolling.

Then you need to consider how much work you want to do on it.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-land-rovers/205561-conservation-vs-restoration.html

Using the original nuts & bolts is great but if they are rusted you need de-rust them & get them plated otherwise they will rust again very quickly.

My Series I was made safe. Basically a brake overhaul, axle seals, ball joint seals, UJ's replaced, a few repairs to the bodywork, overhaul kit through the carby and a quick service. It got to Cooma & back under it's own power and with only a few running repairs is still operational.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/159944-1956-series-1-pto-welder-home-made.html

Each to their own.


Colin

[JayBee75]

Guys is this tank split, or partial seam separation like this normal?

[JDNSW]

Guys is this tank split, or partial seam separation like this normal?

The skid plate had come unsoldered from the tank. In itself, very common, and not a big drama. But getting water and grit in between the layers is likely to result in a leaking tank either from rust or rubbing or both. Need to be sure it has not already happened.

Ideally the tank would be unsoldered from the skid plate, checked for holes or damage, and resoldered. This would involve removing the tank, removing all petrol vapour from it, and a big blow lamp or or big tip on your oxy and a lot of gas. I reattached mine with silicone rubber, and have had no problems in the twelve years or so since.

John

[JayBee75]

A few hours in today, my son helping out again with the impact drill, he's starting to get good!

Floor footwell's out, seats out, seat trackers out, both sils and brackets removed, will have to look for some new sils and brackets as they are bent and buckled. seat box bolts out.

doesn't seem like much but took 3 hours, anyway no rush happy just pottering away and cataloging all the bots, and photos so i remember what goes where and why.

Still no sign of rust, she's perfect a lot of oil underneath from everywhere and a lot of cleaning to do, as seals leaked everywhere, but that's good as it means its had oil at some point!

Also there's got to be half a tonne of red dirt in her, no matter what you tap or where you look its just poring out!:angel:

[crackers]

Looks good mate. With the red soil, you've got a tip on where she's lived.

What are you using as an impact drill?

[JayBee75]

Looks good mate. With the red soil, you've got a tip on where she's lived.

What are you using as an impact drill?

Have all the details on the history of the car , she's spent her whole life 180km from Burke and it shows!!

Impact drill just using an AEG cordless works great.

[crackers]

Ahh, I've got a good cordless (that's covered in boat building epoxy) with crook batteries. Looks like I've got a reason to get new battery packs.

[JayBee75]

Some good progress on the weekend. Got the car to the point where I want her to be, next steps I think I will work from one end to the other restoring. Don't think I will take her right back just to the chassis. I think I can work from this point on. Car is coming apart well a lot of red dust but that's a great compromise to the fact there's no rust . She's definately original with 99% of bolts identical complete with all layers of washers on every bolt etc.

[JayBee75]

Just mechanicals left....

[JayBee75]

so probably due an update, have been chipping away not at the pace I'd like but getting enough done.
aside a couple of examples, the car is coming apart very easily. No surprises until yesterday when i found a couple of cracks in the front chassis in the radiator mounts, nothing a quick weld wont fix.

rear of the car is dismantled except for the diff and springs, pedal boxes out, radiator and fuel tank have been sent off for refurbish.

I have been thinking and testing a lot on how I am going to restore the car from a process and outcome perspective. I was initially going down the start at the rear take off, fix, restore or replace then put back move to the next section. As of yesterday i have decided to get the chassis and firewall sand blasted, so that means engine and gearbox out finish stripping electrics and some more of the front then i will leave it rolling and send it off. Have found that my elbow is not up to the repetitive grinding process (it was stuffed to start with).

I need to keep the wheels on the car for now, as we are about to undertake some building out the back of the house, so the car needs to be moveable, so based on that this will slow up the process.

When I get it back I will then coat the chassis, firewall, then start at the rear and work through pulling out the diff painting restoring brakes etc then put back in until mechanically the car is restored.

The approach i have decided on is similar to Grey Ghosts, stripping and coating all the nuts and using as much of the original stuff as i can, will just work through each element methodically.

Looks like engine rebuild is on the cards, everyone i have spoken to says i should give it a crack myself, and after getting a rough quote to refurbish this is the obvious option, even though i an very nervous and unsure on putting the thing back together. gearbox feels tight and positive (as much as a landy can) over all so many just need a service.

That's it for this stage will start to take more photos as i go through the parts stripping and rebuilding process, have taken heaps of photos and cataloged for reassemble as well as lots of labeled bags with screws in them!

Cheers
JB

[JayBee75]

I mentioned working through the process of how I was going to undertake the resto.

Attached is some trials I did. I used the park brake that a member kindly gave me (mine didn't have one) and the horn.

Process has been grind back nuts and bolts to metal, nuts and bolts i am clear coating, then the parts I am etch priming then painting, then reassemble. Based on the results i am getting here this is the approach i am going to take as i am happy with the outcome.

Welcome any further advice.

Cheers
JB

[crackers]

Don't be scared of the engine rebuild - you can always bail out and take it to a workshop but a better option would be to con someone into giving you a hand.

[JayBee75]

Hey Crackers,

i will definitely need a hand, i can strip the engine no problems its the rebuilding that scares me, particularly around the tolerances and clearances etc etc. if you don't get it right, it can all go wrong.

the other concern i had was if i had to take it somewhere it would be easier to give them the engine whole then they can strip and rebuild rather than a heap of bits, maybe less hassle.

hoping one of the members in Melb has a hankering for a few beers and some engine building!:angel:

[SII Josh]

looking good,

shame I'm on the other side of the country, would love to help.

keep up the awesome work (and the pics)
:D

[JayBee75]

Got to spend 3-4 hours on the old girl today, been a few weeks since i last completed anything of significance.

Labelled and removed all the wiring, whilst i will be putting in a new loom, with electrics being my pet hate i though at least if i label everything on the old loom, when it comes to putting in the new one i can match up, or lay out and copy. Well that's the theory anyway. Some parts of the loom weren't connected and just hanging in the air but i think i got 70% of it.

Finished taking everything off the firewall, punch through all the grommets, removed the plaques and removed the high beam, had to cut off the bolts...

Next step is to remove all the brake lines and get that engine out. not sure whether i will remove gearbox however it will be then sent off for blasting.

I have decided to tackle the engine build myself hence i have bought a stand, but that's sometime away from commencement.

That's it for now!

Cheers

[crackers]

Electrics - I subscribe to the smoke theory (electricity is smoke, you can tell this because just before the electrics stop working, you seem smoke - that's the electricity escaping).

British auto-electrics -there's a sorcerer involved in there somewhere. Don't trust anyone who claims to understand it, they probably want your soul.

What'd the engine stand cost?
I'd like to get one but apparently you can get away without one if you don't mind rolling it around on the floor.

[JayBee75]

Electrics - I subscribe to the smoke theory (electricity is smoke, you can tell this because just before the electrics stop working, you seem smoke - that's the electricity escaping).

British auto-electrics -there's a sorcerer involved in there somewhere. Don't trust anyone who claims to understand it, they probably want your soul.

What'd the engine stand cost?
I'd like to get one but apparently you can get away without one if you don't mind rolling it around on the floor.

engine stand was $110 delivered. decided on new as having to go pick one up was going to cost me time and money, so for an extra $20-$30 got a new one. As it will take time i decided on a stand, easier to clean and work on and keeps everything organised and tidy in the garage.

cheers
JB

[JayBee75]

Ok, so it's been a while.....;)not that I haven't done anything, but to be honest i take my hat off to the guys that invest the time online updating us and taking us through their bit by bit builds, it's actually quite hard to find the time to do both, so to those guys whom we benefit from thankyou.

Update on mine, shes stripped down to the chassis and diffs but is still rolling as I need to be able to move her around. Overall the dismantle has been relatively pain free just finding the time!!!

so since the loom was labelled and removed the following has been done
everything off the firewall
steering out
engine and gearbox out -still original clutch from what i can tell! (it was stuffed!)
shocks off
and everything else I cannot remember removed.
radiator has been restored, steering box I have cleaned up and greased.
will end up having to chase a few parts and bits here and there where they are un-repairable, or have broken in the process of strip down.

The car is off for blasting at the moment, then when I get her back i'll start of the diff and brake restoration rear to front, steering next then from there a gradual build back up.

Will try to do my best to keep more regular updates coming.
Cheers

[Is Vic There]

Great post mate, keep up the good work :)

[JayBee75]

So update.
Off to the blasters, need to keep the Chassis rolling so when she comes back its diffs and suspension out one by one and restore, replace and back in. From there then steering arms and gradually work up from there.

Any recommendations on what brake parts/kit I will need? - the brakes were shot when I got the car

Cheers

[67hardtop]

So update.
Off to the blasters, need to keep the Chassis rolling so when she comes back its diffs and suspension out one by one and restore, replace and back in.

Jaybee75,
just a warning, tell the blasters NOT TO BLAST or PAINT the chrome swivel balls unless u are replacing them. Coz sand blasting them kills the chrome and destroys the seals when u turn the steering.
A mate just had his done and the swivel balls were stuffed up coz he took a rolling chassis in. The guy blasted everything and it created a whole heap of extra work for him getting paint off some areas, and he had to get new chrome swivel balls. Big $$. Not to mention sand was everywhere coz the blaster didnt give a stuff.

Just a friendly warning/caution for u.

Cheers Rod
Ps keep up the good work :thumbup:


Oops, just got the pics thru. Looks good.
Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

[JayBee75]

So chassis and bulkhead completed. Couple of small things needed attention, certainly nothing major, but with the gloss finish on the Chassis am very happy.

Couple of things have cropped up which you don't know until you find. Seems I will need new rhs front springs as they are in disrepair yet all the others are in really good nick. I think at some point with the front steering arm shes had an impact with a stump or rock as the damage to the arm co incides with the cracked and bodgy repair on the steering mount and damage to the spring.

Anyway next stage is rear diff out and check, replace and restore brakes, seals and anything else I come across, hopefully don't have to rebuild the diff as I am too scared to tackle anything major on it.

cheers
JB

[Gerokent]

When I did mine, I found that it was easier to put the engine and gearbox in the chassis (and what I wished I had done) also Run the wiring down in the chassis rail (and seal it with a grommet) to the rear before fire wall goes on.
Let the search for nuts and bolt and missing pieces begin.

[crackers]

When I did mine, I found that it was easier to put the engine and gearbox in the chassis (and what I wished I had done) also Run the wiring down in the chassis rail (and seal it with a grommet) to the rear before fire wall goes on.
Let the search for nuts and bolt and missing pieces begin.

Ahh, thanks for that, I'd been wondering about it. The problem in my case, is that I have to rebuild the motor before I can :(

Now, back to JB's little cutie :D

[JayBee75]

Alot of De ja vu here boys....

yes definitely firewall off, however I was going to put the gearbox in, then like crackers put the engine in after i have rebuilt it, as its seized.

in relation to the wiring i have left some of the old wiring in the chassis to pull through the new stuff when ready. Never fear Gerokent I have all the nuts and bolts labelled in little individual bags (well 90% as there seems to be some left overs....:angel:)

[JayBee75]

So a bit of an update, not a lot of progress on the car since i got her back, as i am current undertaking another project building decking and putting in an underground spa, so the car has to be movable for access reasons.

Next step will be to put her back in her rightful position in the garage, and drop out the diffs and suspension for overhaul.

Have managed to strip all the body panels ready for initial stages of bodywork, which will be stripping back all non visible areas for painting, leaving exterior panels 'Patina' where engine bay, cabin, wheels arches etc will be all sprayed.

Unfortunately on stripping the tub she's not in the condition the rest of the car is and had a tough time with splitting, separation and rust, so just working through options on this, as I feel whilst wanting to retain originality, cost wise it maybe just too much.

Going to continue to work on bits and pieces in the background as time permits. Steering wheel nearly finished and ready for paint, as well as steering box cleaned up, checked re greased and painted. Pics will follow!

Cheers

[JayBee75]

Steering arm and box, cleaned, greased and painted. Bearings looked ok, doesn't seem to be much play in it, there is a slight knocking feel when rotating the spindle from end to end, however i think that's because i have not put any lubricant in the box yet, cars only done 35,000miles.

I have not filled the box with anything yet, I have read some people saying a specific oil needs to go in it, others saying it should be filled with grease? any help appreciated as there was nothing in side the box when i stripped it down.......

[67hardtop]

Should have 90 gear oil in it. Not sure of the amount.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

[JDNSW]

EP-90 oil, fill to the level plug when installed. There is an end play adjustment on the pitman shaft, but at that mileage (if it hasn't gone round a couple of times) it should not need adjustment.

John

[JayBee75]

80w -90 be ok? cannot seem to find anyone who sells EP 90 gear oil...

cheers

[Homestar]

Yep, 80W 90 is fine. :). That should make it run smooth one more.

[reachjatt]

80w -90 be ok? cannot seem to find anyone who sells EP 90 gear oil...

cheers

Hi JB,
You may try these guys https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=135&item=55020&intAbsolutePage=3
Nav

[JDNSW]

The oil is not critical - it is slow moving, and just about anything that is oily and stays in and keeps water out is satisfactory. Too thin will leak, and too thick will not only possibly stiffen the steering, but more likely not flow back in among the recirculating balls and other contact surfaces, resulting in wear and potentially corrosion. EP-90 is the original specification, but 80W-90 is just as good (but no better in this application).

John

[Loubrey]

Hi JB,

A page borrowed from Dingocroft for all the oil types and capacities...

I found it when I was looking and pretty much covers everything.

John (JDNSW), what is considered a MILD EP?

Cheers,

Lou

[JDNSW]

Hi JB,

A page borrowed from Dingocroft for all the oil types and capacities...

I found it when I was looking and pretty much covers everything.

John, what is considered a MILD EP?

Cheers,

Lou

MILD EP is not a generally used term, but is one used by a particular oil manufacturer to designate a gear oil with small amounts of extreme pressure additives.

John

[Loubrey]

Won't affect people with 2A's, but this is Penrite's quote on the MILD EP lark...

"Mild EP Gear Oil is designed for use in all steel gear sets in vintage and classic cars and trucks as well as rack and pinion steering systems of 1950's and 1960's vehicles. is suitable for use in spiral bevel, worm and pre 1960 hypoid axles.

Mild EP Gear Oil is suitable for use in many gearboxes where a mild level of extreme pressure protection is required and in worm drive differentials used by early Peugeots.

Mild EP Gear Oil may be used where SAE 90 grades were originally specified (especially if the gearbox or diff is slightly worn) or SAE 140 oils were originally specified and the equipment is in good condition. It is also Ideal for use as an ISO 320 industrial gear oil.

Note - Use with caution if the oil is likely to come in contact with water."

Cheers,

Lou

[Loubrey]

MILD EP is not a generally used term, but is one used by a particular oil manufacturer to designate a gear oil with small amounts of extreme pressure additives.

John

The stuff doesn't appear to be available in WA in any case, so I would imagine a "more modern" extreme pressure 90 gear oil should do the same? (Sorry JD, highjacking your thread a bit! :-) )

Cheers,

Lou

[whitehillbilly64]

MILD EP GEAR OIL SAE 110 (http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=14&id_products=80)

Repco did it for me at $13 a ltr

whitehillbilly

[JDNSW]

As I pointed out, the Series steering box is very undemanding, and Rover specified EP-90 so as to keep the oils required for the car at just two - engine oil, and gear oil for everything else. The most demanding service of the gear oils is probably the diffs, with the steering box the least.

John

[JayBee75]

Thanks all for the insights, so ultimately whatever gear oil i get for the box i can use for the diffs as well?

Thanks again.

[JDNSW]

Thanks all for the insights, so ultimately whatever gear oil i get for the box i can use for the diffs as well?

Thanks again.

Other way round - get oil suitable for the diffs, and it will suit everything else - gearbox, transfer case, swivels, wheel bearings, steering relay and steering box. Engine oil for the engine and air cleaner (and the carburettor dash pot on the six).

John

[JayBee75]

So with the fact I cannot do much on the car itself at the moment I have turned to doing bits and pieces as time permits.

So have taken apart the starter motor I have sourced (mine did'nt have one) for a clean, check and paint. The shaft was pretty sticky not having that engaging 'clunk' noise your used to hearing when landy's start as well as one of the carbon brushes was stuck.

Will clean up and lightly sand off the brushes and main spindle, blow out then put back together.

[JayBee75]

So just been advised I might have to go to the UK next month for a few days, so question to all what's the one LR thing i should grab while i am over there that we cannot get here? Trying to think outside the obvious but know I am going to miss something!

(yes i am ordering standard parts to pick up while i am there)

Cheers
JB

[mick88]

A short wheel base County! :)




Cheers, Mick.

[67hardtop]

A 200 n/aspirated diesel for me please...lol

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

[Loubrey]

Just a general question...

We obviously benefit, for the time being at least, on not paying VAT or GST under $1000 imports by post.

If you buy there you are obviously going to pay VAT at 20% which very quickly ads up and then you've got the added issue of Customs this side.

Am I chasing shadows here? Can you order and pay from here thus not paying VAT and instruct the merchant that you will collect without issues with British and Australia Customs?

Its a lot harder claiming VAT back once you've paid it than it looks on paper...

Cheers,

Lou

[JayBee75]

Hi guys, i would greatly appreciate any help or advice on the gearbox.

I have started cleaning out and draining the oil, have checked a couple of the inspection plates and inside looks like new, The top little plate that has a chamber like area inside is pretty dirty but besides that the gears look fresh.

a couple of questions:

1. How much movement/play should be in the main shaft that comes out of the bell housing?
2. oil looks pretty good, with a bit of water in it, no metal elements or debris from my limited experience seems ok. Pics attached.
3. the rubber grommet that houses the output shaft looks like it has had silicone applied both internal then around the grommet on the casting external. was this normal?

Gearbox - 251552244 B

any help, advice etc greatly appreciated. I am based in ashburton Vic.
cheers
Jonathan

[JDNSW]

.........

1. How much movement/play should be in the main shaft that comes out of the bell housing?

Not very much, but there will be some - it is held by only one bearing without the front end in the spigot bush. In view of the lack of issues coming out with the oil I would be inclined to leave it, but you may consider it worth replacing all the bearings and seals in the box since you have it out. Be aware that this may uncover other things that you "might as well do while it is apart", and could end up costing quite a bit. But you will know it is all good!

2. oil looks pretty good, with a bit of water in it, no metal elements or debris from my limited experience seems ok. Pics attached.

Bit hard to tell from the pics, but no bits or filings is a good sign!

3. the rubber grommet that houses the output shaft looks like it has had silicone applied both internal then around the grommet on the casting external. was this normal?

Gearbox - 251552244 B

any help, advice etc greatly appreciated. I am based in ashburton Vic.
cheers
Jonathan

By "output shaft" you appear to be referring to the clutch release shaft. The use of silicone is not standard here - silicone was not a normal automotive product (in fact did not exist) when this gearbox was designed in 1932, but has obviously been used to keep serviceable the rubbers that had hardened. Since you have the box out, I would be inclined to replace these rubbers with new, although since they are only dust/mud excluders, it is not a major issue unless you plan deep wading.

John

[gromit]

By "output shaft" you appear to be referring to the clutch release shaft. The use of silicone is not standard here - silicone was not a normal automotive product (in fact did not exist) when this gearbox was designed in 1932, but has obviously been used to keep serviceable the rubbers that had hardened. Since you have the box out, I would be inclined to replace these rubbers with new, although since they are only dust/mud excluders, it is not a major issue unless you plan deep wading.

John


Problem is that the modern replacement rubbers will decompose within a couple of years.

Colin

[mick88]

Problem is that the modern replacement rubbers will decompose within a couple of years.

Colin


I purchased one a few months back and installed it about two months ago.
As the vehicle is being rebuilt, it hasn't even been subjected to heat other than atmospheric temperature and it's already perished and split.
Besides this they (current aftermarket ones) are not identical in design to the originals and do not fit correctly.
Basically just rubbish that will cause you the inconvenience of having to pull the clutch mechanism apart to replace them!!!


Cheers, Mick.

[JayBee75]

Much appreciated guys.

yes the rubbers are cracked but still serviceable. The movement in the shaft is only minor, but it's out, however looking at all the charts and instructions on working on the gearbox it frightens the hell out of me.

was thinking to send it out to be looked over, but like you say the old "might as well" then becomes a expensive exercise, one which i am trying to avoid.

I want to do as much on the car as possible myself however certain things i want to ensure are done properly, in this instance i feel out of my depth.

[UncleHo]

The Clutch actuating lever rubber shrinks with age,and will let road water in (rain) so the silastic was used,not much you can do about it,just keep an eye on the oil colour,the throwout face is nice and clean with no blueing,the actual throwout bearing is behind that casing,and runs constantly in G/box oil,unlike the Series 3 which had an exposed throwout bearing (Leyland cheapness)




cheers

[JayBee75]

any tips on getting the gearbox mount bolts off? They have a lip or cover over a section of the bolt hence the socket will not fit.

do i just bend these back?

[grey_ghost]

Hi JB,

I just used a flat head screw driver and bent them back. My guess is that they are a sort of locking tab. I also had these on all (8?) of my suspension U-Bolts.

Cheers,
GG

[67hardtop]

any tips on getting the gearbox mount bolts off? They have a lip or cover over a section of the bolt hence the socket will not fit.

do i just bend these back?

Yeah JB as previous poster said, they are lock tabs to stop the bolts or nuts coming out. Prob why the bolts or nuts are still there after 40+ years...lol.

Cheers Rod:D

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

[JayBee75]

Starter motor stripped, cleaned, brushes cleaned painted and put back together.

tested and it works!!! hopefully many more years of service for it.

[JayBee75]

Hi guys,

need some help/advice on my gearbox.

oil came out pretty clean etc just a little water no metal filings or anything of sorts. However upon further inspection at the inspection plate there is a first cog which seems to be damaged? when i spin it around its looks like its been chewed out. i am assuming it's not right. There is a little bit of movement and play in the top gears when i turn them again not sure if this is normal?

gearboxes are definitely not my thing, hence is there any good gearbox re conditioners in Vic?

or any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Thanks

[JDNSW]

I am trying to work out whereabouts the pictures are. I am not certain, but I think we are looking at the back of the output shaft of the main gearbox, viewed through the inspection opening on top of the transfer case.

If that is the case, the spiral gear is the input gear to the transfer case, on the side of it is the dog for operating the PTO, if fitted. To the right of that in the first picture is the "damaged gear". This, in fact, is the special nut that holds the gear on the shaft, together with the special lock washer that makes sure it stays done up. Since a special spanner is required to turn this nut, it would not be unusual for the nut to have been done up and undone at some time in its life with a brass drift or even a cold chisel! And certainly the tabs on the washer would have been positioned with a punch.

John

[JayBee75]

Thanks John, hopefully this may clarify
Inspection plate at rear of box as pictures is where the gears are.

[schuy1]

John is spot on. That nut has had a right royal butchering with a cold chisel!!! Brass must have been in short supply in his tool kit :D
Cheers Scott

[Homestar]

Yeah, that's an interesting way of doing that nut up. This is the correct tool for the job - HNJ Engineering - Series Land Rover Parts - Land Rover Special Tool 600300 - Land Rover Gearbox Overdrive Mainshaft Nut Tool (http://www.hnjengineering.co.uk/pages/products/600300/lr600300.html)

Obviously the PO of your vehicle didn't have said tool, or could figure out a decent way of doing it up.

Either something's been replaced in the box, or overdrive has been removed at some stage and that's how they put the nut back on. If it's still tight, and there's nothing else wrong with the box, it won't hurt to leave it IMO, or just take the back cover of the box off, and use the correct tool to install a new nut for peace of mind.

A fellow member over your side of town has a home made version of that tool which would make light work of it. At 80 quid buying the right tool to do the job once is a bit over the top, as you have clearly seen - the PO of your vehicle thought so too. :D

Oh, this is what the nut is supposed to look like...

[mick88]

With careful perseverance you can knock one up (tool that is) from a socket, along with the use of a 100mm angle grinder and a thin cutting disc.


Cheers, Mick.

[JDNSW]

Even cheaper was the bit of pipe I used plus an angle grinder. Gripping in so many places and only used rarely, it does not have to be hardened.

John

[JayBee75]

Thanks guys really appreciate the insight.

Gearboxes scare the hell out of me, any recommendations on who to take it to
for a check in vic?

[gromit]

Speak to Murray at Four Wheel Drives in Hallam (he works Mondays, Wednesdays & Fridays).
From memory it'll cost about $2K ish as long as nothing major is needed.

Most 'reconditioned' boxes are stripped, damaged parts replaced then put back together. The hope is it'll last the warranty they give.
Some parts are difficult/expensive to replace so secondhand parts are used.

Fred Smith in Bayswater may also be able to help.

In both cases get them to commit up front to the strip down & rebuild cost, everything else will be charged as required.

I did my own http://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powered-series-land-rovers/151959-isuzu-c240-powered-series-3-a-5.html#post1716272

The box had been 'rebuilt' but synchro springs had broken, others were worn, a rusty bearing was replaced along with seals & gaskets.
In the above thread somewhere is a picture of the tool I made to undo the nut that's butchered on your gearbox.

If you get the old nut off and buy a new nut & lock washer I'm happy to pop round and tighten it for you (I don't tend to lend tools out due to past experiences, plus as you get older you forget who's borrowed what.....).

Best of luck,


Colin

[JayBee75]

Thanks Colin that's very helpful.

Not interested in a few beers and some money for your time?!

[gromit]

Thanks Colin that's very helpful.

Not interested in a few beers and some money for your time?!


What time ???

One Land Rover to finish, one I'm working on, two waiting, shed to finish, house to paint, kids to run to Scouts, Joeys etc. etc.

Colin

[JayBee75]

What time ???

One Land Rover to finish, one I'm working on, two waiting, shed to finish, house to paint, kids to run to Scouts, Joeys etc. etc.

Colin

Touche! And I thought I had more on than I could chew!

Thanks again Colin:)

[gromit]

Spoke with Murray at Four Wheel Drives today.
Two working days plus parts, $2K would see labour and gaskets, seals & bearings (no-name probably) replaced. If it needs gears, synchro's etc. the cost starts to rise (synchro drum is $220)
Thoroughly cleaning it before taking it in reduces the cost.

Was the gearbox working OK ? Is there a known problem ? If no then replace that nut & lockwasher and keep your fingers crossed. Alternatively source a secondhand replacement, although you are then in the hands of the seller in terms of it's actual condition.....

Colin

[JayBee75]

Hi Colin
Thanks so much for doing that very generous of you. $2k is not an option for me at this stage as the motor needs rebuilding so at this stage I think I will open it up further per your post and inspect, replace the end nut get you to pop over to tighten🙃
I'm unsure of the box as the car was not running. We think it's done 35,000 miles the clutch was stuffed but the oil besides some water looked OK. I think l have to roll the dice on it.
Cheers
Jonathan