PDA

View Full Version : Greasing the threads on bolts



crackers
1st June 2015, 07:15 PM
Being a complete nutter, I also ride pushbikes and do all my own mechanical work. Standard practice in bicycle mechanics is to put a bit of grease on the threads so you can pull the darned things apart again.

Does anyone grease threads on bolts on their Landys? Obviously not bolts/studs that need to be torqued with a tension wrench such as head bolts, but for other nuts and bolts.

Grappler
1st June 2015, 07:23 PM
Nothing wrong with greasing or anti seizing bolts. Use a product that is compatible with the metals involved. When torquing bolts a greased bolt is generally torqued 30% less than an as supplied bolt

p38arover
1st June 2015, 08:13 PM
Does anyone grease threads on bolts on their Landys? Obviously not bolts/studs that need to be torqued with a tension wrench such as head bolts, but for other nuts and bolts.

Torqued down bolts can be oiled. For example, the owner's handbook for my Rangie specifies oiling the wheel studs and then torquing to 80 ft.lbs.

Just looking at the torque specs on the bolts in the Rover V8 overhaul manual, quite a few, including the cylinder head bolts, are marked "* Lightly oil threads prior to assembly."

gromit
1st June 2015, 08:36 PM
I've always lubricated (grease or oil), reduces the chance of rusting and potentially makes them easier to undo in the future.
Shackle bolts on leaf springs I use Copperslip, I know it's not high temperature but I've come across so many that are seized solid in the bush sleeve.

My Father-in-law has a different approach. I mentioned lubricating wheel nuts and he suggested that if one was loose then it would come undone easier & get lost if lubricated......makes you think about whether you should lubricate or not.
With wheel nuts I now use graphite powder, when you drop the nuts in the dirt the dirt doesn't stick to graphite like it does to oil/grease (and I remember to make sure they are tight).


Colin

p38arover
1st June 2015, 08:43 PM
Re torquing wheel nuts, I saw mentioned recently that not using a torque wrench can cause distortion of the brake disc. I'm not convinced but, when I changed my wheels last week, I did one wheel by hand then decided to use the torque wrench.

I didn't think I'd put much effort into tightening the nuts but, when checked with a torque wrench, I found I'd put in far more than the specified 80 ft. lbs.

crackers
1st June 2015, 09:34 PM
Re torquing wheel nuts, I saw mentioned recently that not using a torque wrench can cause distortion of the brake disc. I'm not convinced but, when I changed my wheels last week, I did one wheel by hand then decided to use the torque wrench.

I didn't think I'd put much effort into tightening the nuts but, when checked with a torque wrench, I found I'd put in far more than the specified 80 ft. lbs.

Yeah. I found that last time I rotated the MG's wheels. We typically waaaaayyyyy overtighten wheel nuts. I don't know about warping the discs but with my MG ZR, people have been known to snap the studs off (apparently MG-Rover used pasta)

Blknight.aus
1st June 2015, 09:51 PM
Lube em.or loctite.em and torque em um up.

Gunma have a good laugh at anyone who tries.to.torque dowm headbolts.withoit lubomg them amd the clamping face.of the bolt head.

Dark61
2nd June 2015, 07:44 AM
copper slip for me,
cheers,
D