Help needed - part for mounting bash plate

[CSBrisie]

Hi All,
Need some help...as I mentioned on another thread, I ordered a bash plate (front sump guard) from Mantec in the UK. Ir arrived and my simple (4 bolt) fitting went South when I discovered the old owner has managed to "remove" (?) one mounting point. LR Australs in Brisbane said they cant help - referred me to a crash repairer; Crash repairer (reputable Brissie one) said "No" its classified as a repair to the front cross member so we can't do it. (Structuatrally its fine, just a License thing they said).

So, I guess I need to find a wrecked L322 and remove the part - metal plate per photos) (as LR dont seem to classify it as a "part") or make something up (I'd prefer to use this as the mounting point than try and mount alterantively); and then find a friend who will weld it on......anyone (in Brisbane) able to advise or help???
cheers
Chris

[chaybra]

Looks like it wasnt so much "removed" as it was "taken" by a rock or something to break the welds (They dont look like they were cut).
Either way its not a good thing and unless you can get your hands on a wrecked subframe, cut it off and reweld to yours.
Best option is to make or get one made simply and weld on.

Be very cautious with welding, ensure you unplug all the ECU's as best as possible. I make a rule that I remove what ever part it is im welding from a car (With multiple ecu's) otherwise I dont weld it...to scared of the several thousands of $s worth of computers blowing up

[CSBrisie]

Hmmm. The welding worries me. Same thing heard from others. I have a feeling the bash plate might not be making it on :(

[chaybra]

there is always (Not always but sometimes) a way around welding, use of some U bolts could be a good way to secure something to mount it too

[chaybra]

On a side not, looking at the plate that is still welded on there, they look like they are beginning to crack from the rust marks around them.

Check the tension of the subframe mounting bolts, movement can cause stress fractures on the welds....?just a theory but could explain why one side has gone missing

[Graeme]

If you decide to have any welding done then remove the battery from the vehicle, connect the battery positive lead directly to a good earth (NOT the negative battery lead because it might not go directly to earth) using a good jumper lead or some other secure method to provide the lowest resistance path for any stray current to get to earth thus preventing a circuitous route through electronic components in ecus. Connect the welder's earth clamp close to where the welding will be done and protect any nearby components or paintwork.

Note that ecus can usually withstand 30V on their power supply lines and that the alternator provides protection for ecus for up to much higher voltage spikes, as will occur if the battery suffers from an internal open circuit (or a cable detaches from the battery) whilst the engine is at maximum revs.

[CSBrisie]

I was thinking about the U bolt idea too - going to investigate that option a bit more!