Tips for fitting lifted springs

[mattg]

Hi all I have my new 2 inch lift springs to fit but struggling to get the compressors on safely in the right spot. Any tips would be handy
Matt

[kelvo]

Tip number one, don't use spring compressors. Well I didn't anyway.

For the fronts, remove front shocks, disconnect sway bar, remove front cross member under front prop, jack up front of car on the chassis until springs are free (Keep an eye on the brake and ABS lines), put car on stands, remove old springs, fit new springs, refit others parts in reverse.

For the rear, remove rear shocks, disconnect rear sway bar, jack up fear of car on the chassis until springs are free (Keep an eye on the brake and ABS lines), put car on stands, remove old springs, fit new springs, you may need to force the rear axle down so make sure the car is safely raised, refit others parts in reverse.

[PhilipA]

I personally use spring compressors.
It is tricky to get in a position so that they can be released once the springs are on the car.
I find that one compressor to the front and one towards the back but at less than 180 degrees ( ie facing slightly towards the outside of the car ) works OK, and do not try to get the movable jaw on the very last winding or it will jam on the bottom mount.

I also find it helpful to use the D2 jack between the chassis and leading arm on the front to jack the axle down, bearing in mind not to stretch the brake line or ABS line. Ditto back on trailing arm.

Regards Philip A

[Tombie]

Spring compressor = Dangerous (stored energy just dying to get out) ;)

So if you can avoid using them all the better...


Mattg - I can describe how to do it easier by phone if you want to give me a call on 0468478666

[Roverlord off road spares]

I used a spring compressor no probs, but I think some people using spring compressors try over compress the spring, it doesn't need to be squashed down, I only needed to compress them a little to get them in as I had the axles hanging.
I was doing 1 side at a time, if it was on a hoist then probably wouldn't have needed a spring compressor

[Tombie]

I used a spring compressor no probs, but I think some people using spring compressors try over compress the spring, it doesn't need to be squashed down, I only needed to compress them a little to get them in as I had the axles hanging.
I was doing 1 side at a time, if it was on a hoist then probably wouldn't have needed a spring compressor

You need to eat your weetbix :cool:

I can easily fit a 4" lift coil in a D2 without assistance of spring compressors ;)

[MR LR]

Whilst unnecessary, in a car with sway bars I generally use ratchet straps to compress the springs, as I'm fairly lazy, so disconnecting the sway bars etc is not my preference.

This may be an easier option for you.

I just use two straps on opposing sides of the coils, wrapped around the second wind from each end.

There's a lot of potential energy stored so be careful... common sense will dictate whether you cop a coil in the jewels or not.

[Jazzman]

When I did the front i'm pretty sure i removed the turret for the shock. I'm pretty sure i did this so i could fit the spring then put the shock down from the top after the spring was fitted.

I do remember however I did not need spring compressors. I have a feeling I put the front on stands under the chassis.

I vaguely remember putting a jack between the swing arm / radius arm to and chassis to force the axle down. Pushed the spring in by hand. They were Dobinson +100kg 2" lift springs.

[twr7cx]

I have not had to use spring compressors or remove the shock turrent when fitting up to 3" springs in the front.

Jack front up under chassis.
Remove wheels.
Disconnect panhard rod at one end (doesn't matter which).
Undo shock at bottom on both sides.
Push diff down.
Compress shock upwards (handy to have a second person).
Slip spring out.
Reverse for refit.

[discorevy]

I have not had to use spring compressors or remove the shock turrent when fitting up to 3" springs in the front.

Jack front up under chassis.
Remove wheels.
Disconnect panhard rod at one end (doesn't matter which).
Undo shock at bottom on both sides.
Push diff down.
Compress shock upwards (handy to have a second person).
Slip spring out.
Reverse for refit.

X2 plus r+r front cross member or front prop shaft bolts, (latter will allow you to properly check uni joints). as others have said, watch brake / abs lines

[mattg]

Thanks guys my main issue was I was doing one wheel at a time then I took the Luther wheel off and hay presto. 95028

[mattg]

Thanks for all the pointers guys

[Tombie]

Jack front up under chassis.
Remove wheels.
Disconnect panhard rod at one end (doesn't matter which).
Undo shock at bottom on both sides.
Push diff down.
Compress shock upwards (handy to have a second person).
Slip spring out.
Reverse for refit.No need to disconnect Panhard rod either...

Or take out the crossmember,

Or drop front shaft...



Glad to see you got it worked out.... :cool: