No stop lights and no start

[Chris078]

Help!
As per title, I have no stop lights ( The low brake light comes on when I turn on the lights) and the engine cranks but does not fire.

The story. got a cheap second hand cubby box, removed the rifle holder.
Saw some great gobs of mud/grease sitting on top/round the gearbox/transfer case/handbrake cylinder. Gave them a bit of a clean by rag and some degreaser. ( I don't think I got the degreaser anwhere I shouldn't).
Put the rifle tray back in when I realized I need a tray to mount the box too. Drove the perentie down to a local metal shop, ordered a tray, then drove the clarke rubber and got some replacement seal for the tray, the to Bunnings for some timber and screws, the home. No problems at all with any of those starts.

Last night I was going to take it for a drive, but decided (and I think this may be where my problems start) to swap reverse bulbs I had in the back for some LED light I had put in the driving lights at the front to give me some more light when reversing.
did the swap and then had no reverse lights or brake lights but it did start.
odd. swapped the bulbs back, reverse lights worked (obviously started to test that) parker/driving lights worked at the front, no brake lights.

That's where I left it last night.
Come this morning I checked all the fuses (seem fine) checked the bulbs in the back - no blown, went to start and lots of cranking but no firing.

Any ideas on what on earth I have done??
:confused:

Edit - going to remove the rifle holder and poke around to see if I dislodged anything there.

[isuzutoo-eh]

If it is cranking and not firing, that is a fueling problem-check the operation of the EDIC motor. The EDIC motor should move the fuel shut off valve when you turn on the ignition. There is no electric fuel pump to worry about.
Might help with the diagnosis...

[Chris078]

If it is cranking and not firing, that is a fueling problem-check the operation of the EDIC motor. The EDIC motor should move the fuel shut off valve when you turn on the ignition. There is no electric fuel pump to worry about.
Might help with the diagnosis...

Thanks.
Isn't there a lift pump from the fuel tank to the injection pump?

what position should should the stop motor be in to be off/on?

[Lotz-A-Landies]

One thing you should check is the in-line fuse for the EDIC motor.

They are very problematic. You should find it on the engine side of the firewall near the air cleaner. Follow the wires out of the EDIC the plastic bag above the footwell, the thing with electrical wires out one end and a cable running to the Injector pump at the other.

[Chris078]

One thing you should check is the in-line fuse for the EDIC motor.

They are very problematic. You should find it on the engine side of the firewall near the air cleaner. Follow the wires out of the EDIC the plastic bag above the footwell, the thing with electrical wires out one end and a cable running to the Injector pump at the other.

BAM! that was it. :D
Fuse holder is pretty shoddy (rusty) not sure how to properly fix it as I don't think there is enough wire to cut off the existing fuse holder and splice in a new one.

Now to work out why the brake lights aren't working.

[Chris078]

Right. I think maybe when I was parked at Bunnings yesterday that some charming person got up to mischief.

just found that right next to the EDIC motor fuse (That looks like it had been yanked - it was hanging on by a wire) the brake light cable had been disconnected.

I'm not a believer in coincidence that two cables right next to each other would shake themselves loose at the same time.
looks like I'll be ordering a bonnet cable and removing the external release.
:censored::censored::censored:

[Barefoot Dave]

Right. I think maybe when I was parked at Bunnings yesterday that some charming person got up to mischief.

just found that right next to the EDIC motor fuse (That looks like it had been yanked - it was hanging on by a wire) the brake light cable had been disconnected.

I'm not a believer in coincidence that two cables right next to each other would shake themselves loose at the same time.
looks like I'll be ordering a bonnet cable and removing the external release.
:censored::censored::censored:


What you describe is a familiar scene to many who have completed an Army drivers course BEFORE fault finding was seen as setting people up for failure.
Know any ex-army types who would be messing with you?

[Dervish]

looks like I'll be ordering a bonnet cable and removing the external release.
:censored::censored::censored:

Don't forget the other little bits you'll need, i.e. this thing (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-110-130-BONNET-RELEASE-CABLE-SLAM-PANEL-CLIP-13H489L-/271594202781) and this other thing. (http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/94123/4929/bonnet_cable_trunnion_screw)

[Chris078]

Don't forget the other little bits you'll need, i.e. this thing (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-110-130-BONNET-RELEASE-CABLE-SLAM-PANEL-CLIP-13H489L-/271594202781) and this other thing. (http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/94123/4929/bonnet_cable_trunnion_screw)

Thanks, will try and find some Australian sources for them.

Don't know any army types, just quite annoyed that someone would do that.

Mucking with the stop motor is annoying , disabling brake lights is downright dangerous.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

BAM! that was it. :D
Fuse holder is pretty shoddy (rusty) not sure how to properly fix it as I don't think there is enough wire to cut off the existing fuse holder and splice in a new one.

Now to work out why the brake lights aren't working.I would be extending the wires beck through the firewall and fitting a new fuse inside, probably with the other fuses. That way the fuse is not exposed to heat and the elements as it is inside the engine bay.

You know that this can also be used as an engine immobiliser by adding a (hidden) switch into the line.

[Chris078]

Don't forget the other little bits you'll need, i.e. this thing (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-110-130-BONNET-RELEASE-CABLE-SLAM-PANEL-CLIP-13H489L-/271594202781) and this other thing. (http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/94123/4929/bonnet_cable_trunnion_screw)


ok. finally have all the parts here to install.
now. does anyone have a photo/service manual of the exact routing of the cable?
pretty obvious where it goes through the firewall and around the side of the radiator, but the exact path it takes in between and where that little clip is supposed to be located are a mystery...

any help muchly appreciated.

[Dervish]

ok. finally have all the parts here to install.
now. does anyone have a photo/service manual of the exact routing of the cable?
pretty obvious where it goes through the firewall and around the side of the radiator, but the exact path it takes in between and where that little clip is supposed to be located are a mystery...

any help muchly appreciated.


I could go and take pictures of mine, but why bother when a helpful Brit has already done the hard yards.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=9060

[Chris078]

may as well put it here instead of putting up yet another post.

So my middle bulkhead (between the seats and the tray) has a great may holes in it - looks like rivet holes. I'd like to put some rivets in the holes, both for looks and for strength. But I need to know what it is so I can choose the right kind of rivet (steel or aluminium) to put in there.

Now I have discovered that I don't have a magnet in this house!
What is it made of?
No rust that i can see, the bare metal looks sort of galvanised but I'm not sure.
So, is it aluminium, steel or gal steel?

Cheers

[Chris078]

Just wanted to say thanks Dervish, that link was exactly what I needed.

Finally got to fit the cable today.
Cable went in without a problem, even managed to leave the external release handle on to keep the look, just not attached to the release mechanism.

Thanks again!
:)