Help me build up my D4 for touring!

[Bush_TM]

Hi guys,

I'm new to the LR world, after previously having owned Nissans and Toyotas (watched my 200 series that faithfully served me for 5 years being driven away today by a happy new owner!).

At this stage my new TDV6 is pretty much standard (with leather/tech pack) and the only thing I have added so far are some cheap mudguards off eBay! So now the real fun begins, and I am hoping that I might be able to get some first hand advice on some of the options that I am looking to add in the near future. The plan is to use the car for weekend get aways with the two kids (3 and 5) as well as a once-a-year extended trip. Probably look at doing a big outback trip in a few years when the kids will remember it.

1. Bullbar. My last two Toyotas (100 and 200 series) both had ARB bullbars, and although they look good, i wasn't too impressed with the quality of the last one that I had (a number of rusted out bolts and some rust starting on the supports, and it never went near the beach). I quite like the look of the ARB one for the D4, but it's not cheap! Has anyone got any first hand knowledge of the quality of ARB bars these days? Is there any other companies that I should be looking at?

2. Side steps/sliders. I want something that will look good, protect the paint from wayward rocks, and maybe be called upon to scrape over rocks if the situation ever needed it. The OEM ones aren't cheap, and theres probably better options out there...

3. Drawers/cargo barrier. I am drawn to the drift model as the price seems reasonable, and they generally get good reviews on quality.

4. Snorkel. I am guessing the after market ones do the same job, for half the cost of the OEM?

5. UHF. Where have people mounted the head unit? The best one I have seen is:

Land Rover Discovery 4 2013, GME TX3520 UHF CB Radio Installation | Maroochy Car Sound (http://www.maroochycarsound.com.au/gallery/land-rover-discovery-4-2013-gme-tx3520-uhf-cb-radio-installation)

The 'touch to talk' looks great and the mic location means there's no need to have a cord across the dash. I would even consider installing the head unit inside the 'top' glove box thingy so it is completely out of sight.

6. Dual Batteries. The one I had in the 200 series (installed by ARB ) was rubbish. Any recommendations? We want to run a 60L fridge off it, so would ideally have a solar input anderson plug for extended stays. It looks like there is a special spot reserved for it under the bonnet and that it can be installed with minimal rearranging of other components?

7. Tyres/Rims... I know there are a lot of posts about this, but is there one, simple recommended wheel size/distributor along with tyres? To be honest, I will probably just wear out the OEM tyres before looking to upgrade.

8. Electric brake controller. I have never had one of these fitted, but we are looking at getting a camping trailer (i.e. a camper trailer without the tent) and would like to get it with electric brakes. Any idea of cost etc? Any recommended brands (or ones to avoid!)?

Looking forward to hearing people's experiences, and I promise to post pics of the build as it happens :D

Cheers
Wayne

[Tombie]

Welcome Wayne.

ARB are fine.
APT Fabrications do a fantastic slider
Drifter draws are good gear several here run them
Safari is a Snorkel, factory is RAI but can be sealed
Get a UHF with the speaker and buttons on the mic
Dual/Triple battery - Drivesafe here (Traxide)
Rims - I'm working on some new 18s that will hopefully be quite affordable.
Red arc TowPro for brake controller

[Bush_TM]

Thanks Tombie!

The car is fantastic, loving driving it and really looking forward to putting the fun bits on.

Cheers
Wayne

[~Rich~]

Thanks Tombie!

The car is fantastic, loving driving it and really looking forward to putting the fun bits on.

Cheers
Wayne

Nicer than the 200?

( We are all bias here) ;)

Congrats on the new choice, Tombie is correct on all above.
Only thing I can say is don't bother getting OEM Snorkel ( Raised Air Intake as standard it is not sealed)
Same with side steps too.

BTW get either a set of suspension lift rods or LLAMS - I prefer LLAMS as I use it everyday to drop my car lower enough to fit in my garage with my roof basket on.

[aus86inch]

Welcome Wayne.

ARB are fine.
APT Fabrications do a fantastic slider
Drifter draws are good gear several here run them
Safari is a Snorkel, factory is RAI but can be sealed
Get a UHF with the speaker and buttons on the mic
Dual/Triple battery - Drivesafe here (Traxide)
Rims - I'm working on some new 18s that will hopefully be quite affordable.
Red arc TowPro for brake controller

Hi Tombie
Are the 18" wheels as strong as the GOE/Compomotive ones, & when do you think availability will be.

[Bush_TM]

Thanks Rich. Can you explain to me what the lift rods do?

I took the 200 for one last spin before handing the keys over today. I couldn't believe how rough it was (sound and suspension). However, I did beef up the suspension and it had mud tires. But even the engine noise was sooooo much louder.

[~Rich~]

Thanks Rich. Can you explain to me what the lift rods do?

I took the 200 for one last spin before handing the keys over today. I couldn't believe how rough it was (sound and suspension). However, I did beef up the suspension and it had mud tires. But even the engine noise was sooooo much louder.

One major shortcoming of the D3/D4 and RRS is that at speeds over 40 kph if in Off Road height you will get a warning saying that suspension will drop if speed is not reduced to under 40 kph.
The vehicles automatically drop when the speed gets to 50 kph.
The advantage of Rods is to fool the computers of the air suspension that the car is lower than if really is, the computer lifts the car approx 50 mm thus giving off road height when standard height is selected.
You can have this height at any speed, perfect for roads with whoop de do's.

Green Oval Experience Land Rover training, Range Rover modifcation (http://www.greenovalexperience.com/#!eas-heights---details/c1kgf)

LLAMS gives you even more height choices just by twisting a dial.
-20mm, +30mm & +50mm. ( even more choices with a mode switch too including recovery mode)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/114282-llams-electronic-height-controller-d3-d4-rrs.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/157287-llams-rods-one-why.html

[LRD414]

Wayne,

There are heaps of good threads on all the things you're looking into that I have found extremely useful over the last few months. Here's a couple to get you started.

Drawers. I went with Drifta and can't recommend highly enough.
Uses the factory tie-down points to hold it in place and completely removable when you want an open boot or to use 3rd row seats.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/lrd414-albums-drifta+drawers-picture5110-p1040011-copy.jpg
The box on the left comes off if I want to put the fridge on the slide and there's a slide out table between the two drawers.

But also, here's a couple of threads that show the many ways people have set up excellent rear storage, including some great DIY versions.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/205055-d3-d4-rear-fitouts-2.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/105305-drawer-system.html

UHF. I went with a GME unit and mount it to the centre cubby box only when using it. Again, there's many good set ups. Have a read of these.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/169584-uhf-radio-antenna-recommendations.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/137429-uhf-radio-set-up-d4-3.html

Dual Battery. I have a Traxide kit like many others. Can't recommend this highly enough either. As you suggest, fits very neatly in what looks like a space made for it:) .... that's actually for a heater in Europe I think. One of the best DIY projects you'll do.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/180987-traxide-d4-dual-battery-kit.html

Wheels and Tyres. I am one of many with 18" Compomotive wheels from Green Oval Experience (Gordon). I am very happy with these and there is many threads on this subject.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/lrd414-albums-wheels-picture5122-clearly-very-well-made-product.jpg

18" provides better tyre selection than 19" but there is still a couple of reasonable choices in 19.
I have Bridgestone D697 LTs, which are highly regarded by people who've run them many k's on rough roads.
Tyres is a "big" topic but here's a couple of threads to get you going (both for 18 and 19).
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/208764-tyres-r18s-lt.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/147230-d4-19inch-cooper-zeon-ltz-255-55-19-a.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/213882-d4-standard-19-rims-tyres.html

Brake Controller. Red Arc Tow Pro has been excellent so far and a very neat installation with a hidden main unit. Have a look at the excellent EBC threads in the stickys section.

Oh and I have Llams too. :D

Anyway, welcome to LR World and the forum. You won't look back.

Cheers,
Scott

[Nomad9]

Hi Bush TM,
I have good experience with the Tekonsha P3 brake controller, great unit. Rims I use the RRS 18 rims with GG AT's on them, for me seems to be a good compromise with price and quality. I have had personal not so good experience with Coopers, the GFL warranty wasn't worth much when it came down to it.

ARB bars I haven't had a problem with them, the only thing is you can no longer get the headlights out (easily), you can do mods to make things easier, might be an idea to do the mods BEFORE installing the bulbar, lots of threads on this one.

If you go for the long range tank option, you'll either be doing a rear wheel carrier or a roof rack, if you go down this track watch the weight rating of the tyres, the back end with drawers, possibly a fridge, 100+ litres of fuel, rear wheel carrier, two wheels with tyres, plus all the "stuff" you put in the drawers. I ended up on Coopers because of the weight issue..........the rest is history really.

UHF radio I have the GME 80 ch unit with the controls on the mic, good unit in my opinion.

LLAMS great invention..........the air compressor works harder, the system is fantastic.

If you get a camper trailer with LED lights you'll need some device to stop the indicators flashing, again lots of threads on this one.

One good saying about accessories, "for every accessory you fit, you need (roughly)three more accessories to make it work properly or effectively", something to bare in mind.

Enjoy the new D4

[Redback]

Hi Wayne welcome to the forum, you can basically set your D4 up the same as your 200 series, although there are only a couple of things that I think you should use that a Land Rover specific, mainly because of the electrics in the car, and the Traxide dual battery system is one of those items.

Also the LLAMS electronic height adjustment system and GOE height adjusting rods are the other, these get around the suspension lowering at 50kph when, allowing you to travel at normal speeds on roads with a high centre hump.

Your only real issue will be rims, there are a couple of options, GOE Compomotive 18" rims, grinding a smidge off the front Disc calipers and fitting factory D3/4 alloys or aftermarket(this mod is not recommended) or waiting for Tombies rims.

Sliders, there are a few options here, I went with a forum members slider, he's in Brisbane, Brad is his name, he is Disco3QLD on the forum, shoot him a PM, you might be able to go to his fab shop to see them.

Anyway to give you an idea, here's what I did/added.

I started with;

2011 2,7l TDV6
Orkney Grey
7 seater
Full Leather interior in Ebony
E-Diff
Xenon Lights
Dual Zone A/C with Rear Air
LR factory Rear Ladder
LR factory roof tracks

Accessories added

Those in bold are Homemade by either me(Redback) or the missus(KAOS)

KAOS Lambswool seat covers Homemade
Rhino Rack Platform
Bob Burrage Side Awning Passenger side
Supapeg Rapid Wing Awning Drivers side
KAOS Rear Wheel Rubbish Bag
Redback Pole Carrier
Long Handle Shovel
Drifta D2D Drawers and Redback Fridge Slide
ARB Achor points
Factory D3 17" Alloys for offroad and touring
BFG KM2s LT245/70/17
Opposite Lock Bullbar
9500lb VRS Winch with Dyneema Rope
Safari Snorkle
GME 3540 UHF and 4.5Dbi GME Antenna
Lightforce HIDs
Kaymar Rear bar with twin carriers with
Redback Jerry Can Holder
Mitchell Bros Tow Hitch
Rijidij Rear work light, replacing the Kaymar item
90lt Outback Accessories Long Range tank(gravity feed)
Disco3QLD Rock Sliders
Llams Height adjustment System
Traxide USI 160 Winch Kit DBS
Optima 55AH deepcycle batteries
3 extra accessory sockets
Big Red Compressor fitted under the bonnet.

Hope this helps,

Baz.

[BMKal]

Where abouts did you fit the compressor Baz. I assume that you have an Optima battery on the left side of the engine bay with Tim's mounting platform.

Wayne, for touring, I would seriously recommend getting the spare wheel onto a rear carrier (can be a full rear bar replacement like a Kaymar or one of the single carriers which does not replace your rear bumper) and put a long range fuel tank where the spare wheel was.

The advantages of this are numerous, not least of which is getting rid of that mongrel spare wheel "winch" that came as original with the vehicle. ;) This makes it a lot easier when selecting drawers for the rear of the vehicle, as you do not have to worry about access to the jacking / winching point in the rear floor.

Also, you might want to consider carrying a decent bottle jack. The original LR jack is not something I would want to rely on, especially if you ever have to change a tyre on uneven ground. Take note though that most bottle jacks will not get under the jacking points of the vehicle if you have a completely flat tyre, or if the suspension has lowered to the bump stops. Because of this, it is sometimes easier to use the original LR jack to raise the vehicle far enough to get a more substantial / stronger jack in under the vehicle.

[Redback]

Where abouts did you fit the compressor Baz. I assume that you have an Optima battery on the left side of the engine bay with Tim's mounting platform.

Wayne, for touring, I would seriously recommend getting the spare wheel onto a rear carrier (can be a full rear bar replacement like a Kaymar or one of the single carriers which does not replace your rear bumper) and put a long range fuel tank where the spare wheel was.

The advantages of this are numerous, not least of which is getting rid of that mongrel spare wheel "winch" that came as original with the vehicle. ;) This makes it a lot easier when selecting drawers for the rear of the vehicle, as you do not have to worry about access to the jacking / winching point in the rear floor.

Also, you might want to consider carrying a decent bottle jack. The original LR jack is not something I would want to rely on, especially if you ever have to change a tyre on uneven ground. Take note though that most bottle jacks will not get under the jacking points of the vehicle if you have a completely flat tyre, or if the suspension has lowered to the bump stops. Because of this, it is sometimes easier to use the original LR jack to raise the vehicle far enough to get a more substantial / stronger jack in under the vehicle.

Hey Brian, next to the Transmission ECU.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/D4%20and%20Amarok/IMG_1641_zps18gqayeo.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/bazzar/media/D4%20and%20Amarok/IMG_1641_zps18gqayeo.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/D4%20and%20Amarok/IMG_1640_zpsg8dord17.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/bazzar/media/D4%20and%20Amarok/IMG_1640_zpsg8dord17.jpg.html)

Baz.

[LRD414]

You mentioned a camping trailer with brakes and the tow hitch is another area where you have some choice.
The stock tow hitch is pretty good but can be a bit cumbersome and does reduce rear clearance when being used. Some have had issues with it but many use it without any trouble.

An alternative is the Mitchell Brothers tow hitch that replaces the stock unit and is pretty much a permanent fixture, which some people don't want. But it does maintain rear clearance and makes achieving a horizontal draw bar easy, especially if your tow a camper trailer with high ground clearance.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/lrd414-albums-general-picture5387-mitch-hitch.jpg

I have a tow-hitch-mounting bike carrier that I take on & off regularly, so the Mitch Hitch has been excellent for that & the camper trailer.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/lrd414-albums-camper-picture5416-camper-trailer.jpg

Also, you may want to have a look at bash plates, in particular for the air compressor. It's beside the chassis near the rear passenger wheel but hangs a bit low. I have a GOE one. You can make it out in this photo, note the air gap between plate and compressor.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/292.jpg

A number of companies fabricate various other plates too (radiator, transmission, etc) that are worth looking at, depending on how rough you expect to get but most experienced guys advise that the compressor one is the first priority.

Cheers,
Scott

[Bytemrk]

G'day Wayne,

Looks like others have just about covered it all off, but the one thing I would highlight is watch the weight.

I notice you don't include a long range tank or a rear wheel carrier in your list, so that will help in the weight department, but once fully kitted out, these things approach GVM pretty fast! (As would the 200)

My setup includes:

ARB front Bar
Hella 4000 HID's
Traxide Dual Battery Kit
Safari Snorkel
Llams
Sliders, built by Brad on this forum, but the APT ones look great too.
Icom 440 UHF
Redarc Tow Pro controller
LRA long range tank
Kaymar rear wheel carrier
Rijidij rear light
Autosafe Cargo Barrier
Rhino Roof Platform
Engel
Blue tongue compressor (yet to be mounted under bonnet)

I stay under GVM, cause I generally only tour alone, if I had the whole family with me, I'd struggle. I suspect a full set of draws might tip me over if I didn't remove the third row of seats. ( Which I'm told weighs about 75Kg.)

As the others have said, 18" rims certainly give you more options, but I'm currently still running 19" which have still got me plenty of interesting places and back. ( I'm running Hankook Dynapro AT-m's)

However you set it up, I am sure like the rest of us, you will love the D4 ;)

[Redback]

G'day Wayne,

Looks like others have just about covered it all off, but the one thing I would highlight is watch the weight.

I notice you don't include a long range tank or a rear wheel carrier in your list, so that will help in the weight department, but once fully kitted out, these things approach GVM pretty fast! (As would the 200)

My setup includes:

ARB front Bar
Hella 4000 HID's
Traxide Dual Battery Kit
Safari Snorkel
Llams
Sliders, built by Brad on this forum, but the APT ones look great too.
Icom 440 UHF
Redarc Tow Pro controller
LRA long range tank
Kaymar rear wheel carrier
Rijidij rear light
Autosafe Cargo Barrier
Rhino Roof Platform
Engel
Blue tongue compressor (yet to be mounted under bonnet)

I stay under GVM, cause I generally only tour alone, if I had the whole family with me, I'd struggle. I suspect a full set of draws might tip me over if I didn't remove the third row of seats. ( Which I'm told weighs about 75Kg.)

As the others have said, 18" rims certainly give you more options, but I'm currently still running 19" which have still got me plenty of interesting places and back. ( I'm running Hankook Dynapro AT-m's)

However you set it up, I am sure like the rest of us, you will love the D4 ;)

Very good point Mark, accessories add up, a bonus with the D4 over the 200 series is, the D4 can still tow 3500kg when fully loaded legally, which is a GVM of 3245kg, the Tare/kerb weight includes a driver and full tank of fuel and is around 2550kg approx, depending on the model spec, so you have around 670kg of load capacity, of coarse as you add an accessory, that figure comes down, and as yet there is no GVM upgrade available for the D4.

Baz.

[Tombie]

Hi Tombie

Are the 18" wheels as strong as the GOE/Compomotive ones, & when do you think availability will be.


Wheels are rated at 1250kg each.

Availability is pending - bit of work to be done with tooling etc.

If you're looking for a quick delivery I'm not sure that's likely.

Plus I want to test this set for a while before we come out with anything :)

[Graeme]

Do they also fit the front of the MY11/MY12 4.4 RRV with its 6-piston Brembos that allow a specific LR 19" rim, or perhaps the MY07-MY09 3.6 RRV with its 4-piston Brembos that the GOE rims fit?

[Tombie]

Do they also fit the front of the MY11/MY12 4.4 RRV with its 6-piston Brembos that allow a specific LR 19" rim, or perhaps the MY07-MY09 3.6 RRV with its 4-piston Brembos that the GOE rims fit?


I will need to get access to one and take some measurements before I can advise..

[AnD3rew]

agree with most of what is posted here, there is a list of some of my mods in my sig line.

Ther have been a couple of comments about watching the weight limits on the wheels and tyres. but also need to watch tthe total weight limit for the vehicle. Therre is not a huge margin between tthe unladden weight of the vehicle and the manufacturers and thus legal maximum loaded weight.

When you add 4 people, a wheel carrier, long range tank, bullbar, extra battery ,fridge etc, you are already pushing it. If you then add camping gear, water etc you are going to find yourself going over the limit pretty quickly. unfortunately with these suspension systems there is really no easy way to up the load limit with mods.

[Redback]

Here ya go, weights AND capacities for the D4


Tare 2570

GVM 3245

GCM 6740

Max tow 3500

Max Load 670

Max tow fully loaded 3500

[Bush_TM]

This this is a steep learning curve, but I am finding the forum very informative. You guys are awesome and so passionate. I love it!

I am aware of the weight restrictions.. went through the same thing with the 200 series and upgraded the GVM with OME suspension. It's one of the main reasons why the long range tank is not on the list (yet!). The better fuel efficiency of the D4 offsets a fair amount of the difference in fuel capacity:

200 Series:
Usable fuel (i.e. when light comes on) took about 120L and range was about 880km. Averaged close to 13.5L/100km (lifted, mud tyres, bull bar, drawers etc) over the life of the vehicle.

D4:
Its early days (only done 1500km), but it took 62L last fill and had done ~680km. These are real figures and not the highly pessimistic dash readout which is sitting about 8.4L/100! I expect this figure to improve slightly as things loosen up a bit.

A couple of things have been fleshed out in this thread that I would like to explore a bit further...

Firstly, the DBS. I am not really handy with electrical type stuff and would prefer to have it installed professionally. Is there anyone in Brisbane that installs the Traxide system? Same applies for the LLAMS system - is there anyone in Brisbane who installs these systems?

I was amazed to read about the trailer + LED light issue. I did some searching but couldn't really see which one is the easiest/cheapest solution. The trailer that I am looking at getting made will come with LED's, so it is something that I will need to sort out sooner rather than later...

Cheers!
Wayne

[LRD414]

Wayne,

I know exactly what you mean re DIY but the Traxide kit is provided with fantastically detailed instructions that suit a total beginner, like me.

For Llams, I did get someone in Sydney to install while on holiday down there, assuming that it would be tricky. Well, having looked at the components and installation in detail due to a couple of poor installation issues (nothing wrong with Llams itself), I now see it as a pretty straightforward installation.

Someone else may be able to advise re Brisbane installers. One idea is that there is a lot of commonality of installation between the Traxide kit and a brake controller, so getting the one guy to do both and the Llams will be cost effective.

Regarding the LED trailer issue, I got one of these units (see link below). Probably not the cheapest way to do it but is very easy; just plug and play.

Linear Electronic Design | Buy Now (http://www.linearelectronicdesign.com/buy.html)

Anyway, if you do give DIY a go and get stuck I'd be happy to help out. Note also that Tim (Traxide) and Graeme (Llams) are both very helpful, even mid-installation on a weekend.

Cheers,
Scott

[Graeme]

...Graeme (Llams) ...even mid-installation on a weekend.Never a problem, noting that I'll be out of touch for 2 weeks from next w/e doing some long overdue and far too short outback touring in the D4.

[Ooops]

Wheels are rated at 1250kg each.

Availability is pending - bit of work to be done with tooling etc.

If you're looking for a quick delivery I'm not sure that's likely.

Plus I want to test this set for a while before we come out with anything :)

Hi Tombie,

what's your best guess on when they might be available
Ta
Olly

[Redback]

This this is a steep learning curve, but I am finding the forum very informative. You guys are awesome and so passionate. I love it!

I am aware of the weight restrictions.. went through the same thing with the 200 series and upgraded the GVM with OME suspension. It's one of the main reasons why the long range tank is not on the list (yet!). The better fuel efficiency of the D4 offsets a fair amount of the difference in fuel capacity:

200 Series:
Usable fuel (i.e. when light comes on) took about 120L and range was about 880km. Averaged close to 13.5L/100km (lifted, mud tyres, bull bar, drawers etc) over the life of the vehicle.

D4:
Its early days (only done 1500km), but it took 62L last fill and had done ~680km. These are real figures and not the highly pessimistic dash readout which is sitting about 8.4L/100! I expect this figure to improve slightly as things loosen up a bit.

A couple of things have been fleshed out in this thread that I would like to explore a bit further...

Firstly, the DBS. I am not really handy with electrical type stuff and would prefer to have it installed professionally. Is there anyone in Brisbane that installs the Traxide system? Same applies for the LLAMS system - is there anyone in Brisbane who installs these systems?

I was amazed to read about the trailer + LED light issue. I did some searching but couldn't really see which one is the easiest/cheapest solution. The trailer that I am looking at getting made will come with LED's, so it is something that I will need to sort out sooner rather than later...

Cheers!
Wayne

I have all of that as well, bullbar slightly larger tyres, rear bar 90lt long range tank, giving me 160 usable litres of fuel, drawers and so on, my 2.7l D4 isn't as fuel eficiant as the 3.0l D4, but I still get 11.5 to 12.0l/100k around town, and to and from work, early 10s on the highway, 14l to 15l/100k towing our 1500kg camper.

Give Tim at Traxide a call if you are not confident you can do it yourself, he can recommend someone to do it for you, Tim is very helpful.

LLAMS are dead easy, although if you have fat fingers can be a tight squeeze, my missus did ours, I did the muscle bits:)

LEDs are not a big deal on the D4 as they were on the D3, for me it was only a matter of turning the headlights on and everything worked as normal, the only thing that doesn't work is the trailer symbol on the dash, so I wouldn't stress about that.

There are a few on the market for the D4 to solve it, search here, there are a couple of guys that have made there own, for around the $60 mark.

But if you want convenience, these guys are in Newcastle NSW.
Discovery 4 | LED Tow Connect - Tow LED Fitted Trailers Safely (http://www.ledtowconnect.com/2012/06/discovery-4.html)

Baz.

[Graeme]

the only thing that doesn't work is the trailer symbol on the dash, so I wouldn't stress about that.As the dash symbol is only there to indicate a failed globe and that the work-around to get the dash symbol to operate still doesn't indicate if the trailer blinkers are really working, I can't see any benefit in having it working unless the work-around is at the trailer blinkers and even then it does not prove that the lights are working, only that the plug is connected which perhaps is worthwhile.

[CSBrisie]

My "green trailer symbol" in the dash on my MY12 L322RRV (and the same one on my old 2010 D4) flash in sync with the caravan - non LED - lights when the caravan is connected? Thought was normal?

Tombie, re the 18's - and like Graeme, seeing whether they fit a late L322 - are you still based in Whyalla?

cheers

Chris

[Tombie]

My "green trailer symbol" in the dash on my MY12 L322RRV (and the same one on my old 2010 D4) flash in sync with the caravan - non LED - lights when the caravan is connected? Thought was normal?

Tombie, re the 18's - and like Graeme, seeing whether they fit a late L322 - are you still based in Whyalla?

cheers

Chris


Hi Chris

Yes still in Whyalla. Love it here!

Hopefully have the opportunity to size up the L322 etc and confirm wheel fitment in the coming weeks. (Getting very little time off for projects both LR and Home related at the moment).

[CSBrisie]

Thanks mate - I'm definitely in the market for a set if they fit (and others on the L322 forum)
cheers

[Redback]

As the dash symbol is only there to indicate a failed globe and that the work-around to get the dash symbol to operate still doesn't indicate if the trailer blinkers are really working, I can't see any benefit in having it working unless the work-around is at the trailer blinkers and even then it does not prove that the lights are working, only that the plug is connected which perhaps is worthwhile.

I thought it also told you if an indicater was out on the trailer, it has always stopped flashing when an indicater stopped working, with both bad connection and a blown globe.

The only other time it has not flashed was when I towed a trailer with LEDs.

Baz.

[Tombie]

As the dash symbol is only there to indicate a failed globe and that the work-around to get the dash symbol to operate still doesn't indicate if the trailer blinkers are really working, I can't see any benefit in having it working unless the work-around is at the trailer blinkers and even then it does not prove that the lights are working, only that the plug is connected which perhaps is worthwhile.

Trailer light also confirms acknowledgement that the computer recognises a trailer is connected and will change shift mapping and TR programs to suit.

It does not change the Trailer Stability

[Graeme]

The trailer dash indicator is not a reliable indication that the vehicle knows that a trailer is attached as mine does not work with my box trailer even though its fitted with incandescent globes yet the reversing sensors get disabled.

One day I'll remember to select low range and rock crawl to see whether off-road height is automatically selected or not.

[theins]

Just food for thought. Obviously it all depends on what you want to do and where you want to go. I have tried to keep things simple.

My mods:
- Hankooks AT tyres
- UHF - GME3100TX PNP (no install required and can be removed when not used)
- Roof top box
- side awning
- custom build fake floor to take a solar panel and hotplate for cooking over the fire
- 40l Engel on the fake floor with 120AH battery box
- ARK DCDC charger to charge the 120 AH whilst driving

Last year I had a D3 with GG AT tyres, but otherwise the same setup. We spend three months on the road (with our Camper Trailer).

Worked a treat..

[theins]

Forgot to mention
- re the trailer LED lights. I bit the bullet and got LR to install the required module
- I also use a P3 electric brake controller

[Melbourne Park]

:)
Trailer light also confirms acknowledgement that the computer recognises a trailer is connected and will change shift mapping and TR programs to suit.

It does not change the Trailer Stability

Hmm ,,,I've done some towing with my 2.5 tonne off road van ... and have not installed anything to improve the lack of power the LED van lights deliver. But it changes gears just fine and the fuel economy is terrific.

My 2014 oct SD D4 beeps its reverse warning alarm because my van has LED lights. So I switch the volume on the radio dial down. I could put an old fashioned light bulb onto the trailer lights somewhere - but I don't see the need. Rather than spend a lot on a devise that IMO achieves little, I'd rather add a bunch of LED extra lights onto the van ... enough for the D4 to know its there. Maybe a bunch of purple under trailer lights for traversing Chapel St in Melbourne on a Friday night with the trailer in tow?

I doubt gearbox changes modes due to the trailer lights not being known by the car to be connected when towing either.

I have read though that when off road its good to use the manual settings or at least he sport mode on the gearbox, as it stops the gearbox changing gears and locking and unlocking a lot, which doesn't benefit longevity I've read.

An extra fuel tank is a good thing, and pays for itself in the bush. But for me, I don't like all that weight sitting in the spare wheel area, which puts all the weight on the rear axle. I prefer the idea of the 90lt Outback Accessories Long Range tank, which maybe can be located behind the front seats. Thats much further forward and takes a heck of a load off the rear axle. When trailering, one has to add the ball weight, and it all adds up.

For me, putting a 32kg tyre wheel tyre on a roof rack, means the car has less rear axle weight, and its more standard too IMO.

Traxide will get you to fit it at his place too - he's in Southern Qld, a drive I think from Brisbane. Timothy knows people who can fit it for you too.

[Basil135]

:)


I doubt gearbox changes modes due to the trailer lights not being known by the car to be connected when towing either.



You can doubt, but the fact of the matter is, it does. :angel:

[Tombie]

You can doubt, but the fact of the matter is, it does. :angel:


Heaven forbid I may post things I know about [emoji41]

[Basil135]

Heaven forbid I may post things I know about [emoji41]

First time for everything, I guess.. ;)

[Bush_TM]

Hi guys,

How much would you expect to pay to have the redarc brake controlled installed? Unless I misheard, I believe the LR guy said $1400!!! :o:o

I was thinking of getting it done at the dealer as I have a warranty issue that needs fixing - the drivers lumber support is broken. Feels like the cables have come loose. Not sure if they can fix it without replacing the chair?? Happen with less than 1000km on the clock.

Cheers!
Wayne

[Basil135]

Hi guys,

How much would you expect to pay to have the redarc brake controlled installed? Unless I misheard, I believe the LR guy said $1400!!! :o:o

I was thinking of getting it done at the dealer as I have a warranty issue that needs fixing - the drivers lumber support is broken. Feels like the cables have come loose. Not sure if they can fix it without replacing the chair?? Happen with less than 1000km on the clock.

Cheers!
Wayne

Seems a lot to install a brake controller, but never having done it myself, not sure about how much work is actually involved. Guess when you consider the wiring that has to be run, from the front of the car to the back, plus connecting it all in properly, it isn't an inconceivable amount.

My car is in at the dealers at the moment, having the lumbar support replaced. It felt like it was clicking every time I accelerated, and was annoying. They are replacing the innards, not the whole seat.

[Bush_TM]

Yep! My lumber is doing the exact same thing! Annoying...

[luked3]

I got a tow Pro supplied and installed on the Gold Coast for $650 .

Cheers
Lucas.

[LRD414]

How much would you expect to pay to have the redarc brake controlled installed? Unless I misheard, I believe the LR guy said $1400!!! :o:o

Wayne, that's high. I paid around $800 supply & install in January at an independent but I was also quoted $950 by a dealer. I went independent because it was more convenient at the time and wasn't 100% happy. Dealer quote was from Sunshine Coast. Lucas' $650 is a bargain!

Regards,
Scott

[Reddahaydn]

Hey mate,

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2380719#post2380719

Have a look at my D3 tourer build thread... I seem to be heading the way your planning on going. My drawers are just a little too high however I don't like putting big stuff on top of them, so they are probably about right for me.

I need to have a proper read of this thread when I get home from work, I'm also having issues hooking up a camper trailer with LED tail lights.

I'm also looking at getting a Nanocom Evolution over the IID Tool - however you could go the IID Tool for lifting your suspension and save the money on LLAMS, however I like having the dial right there in front of me ready to change - you will use it a lot more if it's easy to use. And I like to drop it back to standard height for the flat stretches in between the bumpy stuff!

[luked3]

Wayne, that's high. I paid around $800 supply & install in January at an independent but I was also quoted $950 by a dealer. I went independent because it was more convenient at the time and wasn't 100% happy. Dealer quote was from Sunshine Coast. Lucas' $650 is a bargain!

Regards,
Scott

Yeah mate I know ! When he Gave me the quote I thought it was controller only, I got him to do it straight away.

Cheers
Lucas

[Melbourne Park]

Hi guys,

How much would you expect to pay to have the redarc brake controlled installed? Unless I misheard, I believe the LR guy said $1400!!! :o:o


Cheers!
Wayne

My dealer quoted me about $700, but when I bought the controller, the price did not go down!! I wanted the dealer to do it, in case of an accident.

It would be cheaper labour wise, to have the Traxide battery system and the brake controller installed at the same time. Sometimes if the installer buys the gear, you can save.

With a LR dealer, get a written (or emailed) quote. Or if verbal, email to confirm all the costs and what you are getting. There are several Traxide battery systems, and also, different batteries.

IMO the electrical capacity of cable for the traxide system, from the auxiliary battery to the rear of the vehicle, for going to the trailer to charge the trailer batteries, needs to be a decent cable. It worried me that the LR dealer would use the Traxide supplied cable as its not easy to thread.

Also if your going to have a camera on a trailer, then that also could be wired along with the Traxide etc.

[Melbourne Park]

Trailer light also confirms acknowledgement that the computer recognises a trailer is connected and will change shift mapping and TR programs to suit.

It does not change the Trailer Stability

OK ... the Australian Off Road forum (who make various types of camper trailers and vans) have said on their site that it makes no difference. IMO their units - the trailers - should have a device to trigger vehicles like the Disco.

But since it does make a difference, it looks like I am going to have to buy a 25watt globe and light and put in into one of the indicator circuits on the trailer. I understand that would do the job.

One of the funny thing about about Land Rover is the brake system ... evidently, Land Rover don't approve any system. I rang Land Rover about that issue, before I took delivery of my D4. They said that the D4 can handle 3.5 tonne behind it - without auxiliary brakes. I said how can you say that, when its illegal to tow over 750 kg without auxiliary brakes fitted? And that therefor, Land Rover should approve 3rd party brake controllers. Or at least, on of their own ... but essentially, they apologised but just said that is how it is!!!

Hence, I thought it makes sense to get the brake controller installed by an LR dealer.

[orangepop]

I recently had a P3 controller & Anderson plug installed ( install only) for about $860. on the Gold Coast. local Auto elec & top job

[Melbourne Park]

Hey mate,

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2380719#post2380719...
I'm also looking at getting a Nanocom Evolution over the IID Tool - however you could go the IID Tool for lifting your suspension and save the money on LLAMS, however I like having the dial right there in front of me ready to change - you will use it a lot more if it's easy to use. And I like to drop it back to standard height for the flat stretches in between the bumpy stuff!

I think I'll get LLAMS, although are their warranty issues with it?

I like to lower the vehicle for people to get in and out. Also over speed bumps in town, its smoother at off road height by quite a lot. I could do a speed bump at 60KMH with LLAMS. Obviously off road it would be awesome, but then so would the GOE lift tools which are cheap and don't cost money to install.

[lpj]

I think I'll get LLAMS, although are their warranty issues with it? I like to lower the vehicle for people to get in and out. Also over speed bumps in town, its smoother at off road height by quite a lot. I could do a speed bump at 60KMH with LLAMS. Obviously off road it would be awesome, but then so would the GOE lift tools which are cheap and don't cost money to install.

I had Llams since my car had its first service. I've never has a warranty item questioned, including several items that are suspension related.

[Melbourne Park]

I recently had a P3 controller & Anderson plug installed ( install only) for about $860. on the Gold Coast. local Auto elec & top job

I had mine done in Qld ... at Caboulture, Dave Blears did it.

Dave runs this site! He has a computer business ... he hosts sites.

But he still does car electronics, and having I think started the Aulro site, he should know about Land Rovers.

But actually I needed the Traxide system done in QLD straight away, and Tim from Traxide advised me to go to Dave Blair. Davecandoit.com.au, I think the address was Unit 2 7 Lear Jet Drive, Caboulture, near a turn off to Bribie Island.

He did a great job too.

[Melbourne Park]

Trailer light also confirms acknowledgement that the computer recognises a trailer is connected and will change shift mapping and TR programs to suit.

It does not change the Trailer Stability

I had a resistor device installed onto the trailer (the device cost $26 which was a high price but others did not have it in stock).

The trailer icon now appears.

I have noticed a difference in gearbox behaviour too.

Also - its using more fuel!! I think it hangs onto gears more ... and when checking the instance fuel economy readings, lowering the revs does improve fuel consumption.

On the flat though, it was the same.

Coming back, the fuel use seemed the same as before the trailer icon appeared ... so now I am wondering, if the gearbox learn't my driving style?

Curious ....

[Redback]

I had a resistor device installed onto the trailer (the device cost $26 which was a high price but others did not have it in stock).

The trailer icon now appears.

I have noticed a difference in gearbox behaviour too.

Also - its using more fuel!! I think it hangs onto gears more ... and when checking the instance fuel economy readings, lowering the revs does improve fuel consumption.

On the flat though, it was the same.

Coming back, the fuel use seemed the same as before the trailer icon appeared ... so now I am wondering, if the gearbox learn't my driving style?

Curious ....

Is that a mistake $26, cause that is cheap not expensive:eek:

Baz.

[Melbourne Park]

Is that a mistake $26, cause that is cheap not expensive:eek:

Baz.

No ... a twin pack costs under $30.

Here is Narva's product: http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/led-load-resistor-2 - Autobahn advertise it, but do not stock it. So I bought it at Repco, for a higher price. But Repco stock it.

I used just one, and kept the other as a spare.

Its in the trailer though. The ones that automatically get an LED trailer to work, and are in the vehicle, cost a lot more.

You can buy single packs of the "LED" brand for $10.

I was going to put a resistor into the brake lights themselves - such resistors cost $1.50. But the brake lights on my van, were too difficult to get into, due to the metal bars which protect the van from off road damage. I posted on the companies web site to put such a resistor into their circuits somewhere, as so many vehicles do not handle LED trailers properly.