Low battery warning

[wbowner]

Hi,
I have just returned from a two week trip without my M14 D4, so it was left home idle.

I was going to leave it on a trickle feed with a weekly timer but something happened so I did not do it, I raised this in another thread.

Before leaving I had charged the batteries fully.

When I checked after returning the SC80 green light was flashing, indicating it had stopped the link between the dual batteries I have installed.

Summary of things I have installEd on top of the standard build

1. Traxide D4-5S
2. The anti rust thing from LR, yes I fell for it
3. liner electronic design LED module
4. tekonsha P3 brake controller

So my question is do you think some thing is wrong or is what I saw correct.
If so any idea what it could be and how to verify.

According to my meter the aux battery was 12.3 and the main batter was about 11.7

I have it on the charger now.

Richard

[drivesafe]

Hi Richard, and need to know a bit more about the state of your batteries before you left the D4 parked up for 2 weeks.

The SC80-LR will help discharge your batteries over a long period of time, but if you had fully charged batteries before you parked the D4, it would take at least 4 weeks before the batteries were discharged to 12.0v.

Then at 12.0v, the SC80-LR would turn off and your batteries should then take weeks more to discharge down to 11.7v.

So even if your batteries were fully charged, something has caused your cranking battery to continue to discharge.

This is not uncommon and is usually an indication of limited driving time, not just before you parked the D4 for the 2 weeks but for a long period of time before that.

If this is the case, you will probably do your battery a big favour if you can give it a few charge/float cycles with your battery charger.

To charge your batteries properly, you need to allow the battery charger to fully charge your batteries and then leave the charger in float mode for 8 to 10 hours, before disconnecting it.

If you can do this each night, ( even when you are driving your D4 every day ), for a number of times, you will not only fully charge the batteries but will improve their condition as well and this can be quite noticeable.

If you have been having sluggish starts, prior to conditioning the batteries, you should notice, after a few conditioning charge cycles, that the motor, even on the coldest mornings, is starting better that before.

NOTE, a small current capacity charger is better than a large one. While the smaller chargers take much longer to charge low batteries, the tend to do a better job at fully charging and conditioning batteries.

[wbowner]

Hi Richard, and need to know a bit more about the state of your batteries before you left the D4 parked up for 2 weeks.

The SC80-LR will help discharge your batteries over a long period of time, but if you had fully charged batteries before you parked the D4, it would take at least 4 weeks before the batteries were discharged to 12.0v.

Then at 12.0v, the SC80-LR would turn off and your batteries should then take weeks more to discharge down to 11.7v.

So even if your batteries were fully charged, something has caused your cranking battery to continue to discharge.

This is not uncommon and is usually an indication of limited driving time, not just before you parked the D4 for the 2 weeks but for a long period of time before that.

If this is the case, you will probably do your battery a big favour if you can give it a few charge/float cycles with your battery charger.

To charge your batteries properly, you need to allow the battery charger to fully charge your batteries and then leave the charger in float mode for 8 to 10 hours, before disconnecting it.

If you can do this each night, ( even when you are driving your D4 every day ), for a number of times, you will not only fully charge the batteries but will improve their condition as well and this can be quite noticeable.

If you have been having sluggish starts, prior to conditioning the batteries, you should notice, after a few conditioning charge cycles, that the motor, even on the coldest mornings, is starting better that before.

NOTE, a small current capacity charger is better than a large one. While the smaller chargers take much longer to charge low batteries, the tend to do a better job at fully charging and conditioning batteries.
Tim,
Thanks for the reply.

Prior to leaving the car we had just returned from a long trip so go plenty of run. I did a full charge to float mode prior to leaving the car as well.

I believe the battery may have gone into float mode on the first attempt to charge yesterterday, after leaving the car for two weeks, but the timer had turned off for awhile before I checked it.
I re connected the charger, a CTEK MXs 5 amp , and left it until it went into float mode again. I have disconnected it now.

From what you say I should do this a few times and leave in float mode for 8-10 hours.

I had planned to leave the charger on connected to a weekly timer before I left but buggered it up, see my thread on leaving the bonnet open.

I will do some more recharging over the week.

A question, is it reasonable that the car would get into this state after two weeks. I was wondering if it is due to one of these devices I have connected.

Peter Snieg installed the traxide unit and tekonsha so reckon they would be ok but am concerned about the anti rust device because when Peter did the install of the traxide unit and tekonsha he found that the LR guys had wired it up incorrectly.

Richard

[drivesafe]

Hi again Richard and something is definitely not right.

Your batteries should have been at at least 12.3v and the SC80-LR should still have been on.

Something is drawing power after the motor is off.

You will need to do some testing to find the problem device.

Do you have or have access to a clamp meter?

[wbowner]

Hi again Richard and something is definitely not right.

Your batteries should have been at at least 12.3v and the SC80-LR should still have been on.

Something is drawing power after the motor is off.

You will need to do some testing to find the problem device.

Do you have or have access to a clamp meter?

Tim,
It seems like it.
I don't have a clamp meter unfortunately. Being a bit of dunce with cars I think I may take it to an auto electrician or to LR as they seem to be helpful.

I will take some readings with my volt meter over the next few days and see if there is a significant drop.

May get a clamp meter as well, not sure how to use one but have two sons who are sparkies who do. Trouble is that they are over 1000km away.:)

Richard

[LandyAndy]

Richard,if I havent driven my MY14 for 2 weeks I also get the low battery warning,I too have the Traxide DBS.
There is a electronic update for the MY14 that was published somewhere here,mine falls within the vin range,first service due early august,will see if it makes any difference.
I got a Jacar ciggy lighter plug volt meter,it seems its charging well on long runs,ALL my trips are long runs.
Andrew

[wbowner]

Richard,if I havent driven my MY14 for 2 weeks I also get the low battery warning,I too have the Traxide DBS.
There is a electronic update for the MY14 that was published somewhere here,mine falls within the vin range,first service due early august,will see if it makes any difference.
I got a Jacar ciggy lighter plug volt meter,it seems its charging well on long runs,ALL my trips are long runs.
Andrew
Andrew,
I will have to check it out.

I got my car in Feb 2014, have to look up the vin
I just had a service a couple of months ago, so you reckon they would have applied it then but yea never know.

Richard

[LRD414]

Richard, here's the details from the other thread.

TSB: LTB00667v2 (or LTB-00667-NAS-1)
Discovery 4 / LR4 (LA)
Model Year: 2014
VIN: 698741-726591

"Due to gateway module (gwm) software issue, the instrument cluster and/or eco stop/start, fails to function and displays, intermittently, Battery warning message and warning lamp."

Regards,
Scott

[wbowner]

Richard, here's the details from the other thread.

TSB: LTB00667v2 (or LTB-00667-NAS-1)
Discovery 4 / LR4 (LA)
Model Year: 2014
VIN: 698741-726591

"Due to gateway module (gwm) software issue, the instrument cluster and/or eco stop/start, fails to function and displays, intermittently, Battery warning message and warning lamp."

Regards,
Scott

Yep
I am in that vin range.

I will go ask LR but my problem is real as the main battery had discharged below 12 so something is draining the juice out of it.

Richard

[drivesafe]

Hi folks and I would like to hear from you once the update is done.

The update, and I could be wrong, is for correcting erroneous messages, LOW BATTERY messages that can occur even when the battery is in a fully charged state.

There are at least two updates, and one will fix low operating voltages.

So again, anyone getting the update, please let us know what it fixes.

[wbowner]

FYI
If you have the tekonsha p3 there is a volt meter display in the trouble shooting option.

I disconnected my charger earlier after batteries have been charged to float level
I will take readings tomorrow before starting but will have to open doors to pop the bonnet

Let us know

Richard

[Tombie]

The Cathodic Rust unit will take it down significantly during that period.

Have seen this happen before (we had 2 cars years ago fitted with units - worst rust was behind the pads - you live and learn ;) )

[wbowner]

The Cathodic Rust unit will take it down significantly during that period.

Have seen this happen before (we had 2 cars years ago fitted with units - worst rust was behind the pads - you live and learn ;) )

It does seem a likely candidate as it it would have an ongoing usage.
I had read the tekonsha are also possible users in earlier models as they did not turn off. I didn't do it this time but last time I disconnected it beforehand.

If I know this is the cause then I can live with it or remove it.

In future I will leave the charger on.

Richard

[wbowner]

I went to local LR dealer today

They advised that I should use a trickle charger if leaving for a week or so and what I have seen is expected.

Pity I had some more theories. As mentioned I have the linear electronics led module installed. I found out today I had left it on for the two weeks , not sure of impact of doing that though.
If any



With respect to the upgrade mentioned above, it will be done if required. They do this as part of standard procedure

I have my car booked in next Wednesday for a warranty item relating to my seat belt so it will get done then if required

Richard

[scarry]

The Cathodic Rust unit will take it down significantly during that period.

Have seen this happen before (we had 2 cars years ago fitted with units - worst rust was behind the pads - you live and learn ;) )

Yep,been there done that:mad:

wbowner,

Two things you could also do,put a small switch on the wire going to the rust unit,and put another on the neutral wire from the SC80.With both the switches off,battery drain will be minimised.



The dealer also told me the vehicle only goes fully to 'sleep',when it is locked up.Don't know if this is correct,maybe Tim may know?

[rufusking]

Locked - 3 minutes
Unlocked - 33 minutes

[scarry]

Locked - 3 minutes
Unlocked - 33 minutes

Dunno how accurate those figures are,the MY08 Puma didn't move for 10 weeks,and started first go.
There is no way my D4 would sit for that long and then start,maybe there something is wrong with it,but i doubt it.

[wbowner]

Hi,
I have been monitoring my battery this week as the can is mostly idle although I did take it for a spin earlier in the week after charging the batteries

On the 17/6 both batteries were showing around 12.59- 12.61, fluctuating a bit. I note you have to wait till the lights etc turn off else you get a low er reading. This had me a bit for awhile as I got a higher reading later. :)

18/6 both around 12.56

20/6 - today they were around 12.2-12.3 - first reading
However as i was opening the doors a bit as i was doing something they dropped a bit and now the SC80 is flashing which means they are isolated.

The Aux battery is now a bit higher than the main one.

I am going to put them on the charger tonight and will leave for awhile again after fully charged. This time I will disconnect the tekonsha P3 and see how it goes.

My testing is poor and perhaps a visit to an auto electrician is worth doing but the LR guys reckons what I see is OK.

I am having a bad week. I came home from my trip, not in the D4, with a bad cold. I noted the batteries were a bit run down and I have a nail in one of the D4 tyres and it was down to 20psi. It is a slow leek and could be easily plugged but as i m getting new tyres I may just leave it:) (lazy i.e.)

While I am having a moan and groan I will mention my the issue. I find that I have to slam my bonnet down for it to close - the drivers side is the one that is an issue. Once again local LR reckon this is normal. Not sure but they have been helpful in the past.

Sorry about the moan but i feel better now.

Richard

[drivesafe]

Hi Richard and slamming the bonnet closed is the correct way to shut the bonnet.

As for your battery, I would guess and say your cranking battery is ready for replacement.

But if you are not using the D4 much, keep testing it.

[wbowner]

Tim
Thanks for the reply

I will get checked by auto electrician then.
The battery is about 18 months and should be under warranty I thought but best go prepared as I suspect they will not come to the party

Richard

Went for about 40 min drive and batteries sitting on around 12.6 which is good.

I have the charger on tonight so will see.

I still will go see an auto electrician to be sure. Thanks for help.

Re slamming , I guess they make them that was it is very therapeutic after it has given you a bit of grief:)

[VK3GJM]

Hi All,

Although the measurements conducted was not exact and the timing might be slightly out, the following is a result of a sluggish start and the Traxide being disconnected over the cause of the day.

All measurements conducted with Traxide disconnected and any other ancillary removed with the Discovery 4 MY2012 current consumption at +v battery terminal.

Unlock process with light on 8.82 amps but door not opened. Used remote control to unlock. Moved to front of vehicle.

Approx. 37 seconds later doors lock down, reading at 3.6 amps, 10 seconds later 0.81 amps.

4 minutes after locking 0.15 amps, 30 seconds later after locking 0.01 amps

Unlocked with door open and lights on 9.08 amps using keyless entry system, turned lights off with door open 5.77 amps mfd and radio still on with LR symbol.

4.5 minutes later mfd and radio LR symbol off, 2.12 amps, door still open. Did not time shutdown process with drivers door still open, but exceeded 10 minutes.

Close door 10 minutes later from 2.12 amps with slow ramp down to 1.35 amps, 20 seconds later 0.80 amps, then 0.53 amps, 8 minutes later 0.53 amps. 1.5 minutes later, 0.41 amps. 2 minutes later 0.01 amps.

Take 2, Lock closed drivers door, 2.5 minutes in 0.15 amps, at 3 minutes 0.01 amps.

My Jan built MY2012 D4 might be due for a new battery for long term reliability as the terminal voltage is a bit sick for an AGM at 11.87V.

The result might actually be due to insufficient charge time as the trip of about 10km to work from an overnight stand in the garage unlocked, again the following day get to work, all day locked and the cycle starts all over again.

Will try an AGM trickle charger for a week to lift state of charge.

Always lock the vehicle even when packed in garage.

Sorry about photo, iPad always has them upside down.

Regards


Gerald

[LandyAndy]

Richard, here's the details from the other thread.

TSB: LTB00667v2 (or LTB-00667-NAS-1)
Discovery 4 / LR4 (LA)
Model Year: 2014
VIN: 698741-726591

"Due to gateway module (gwm) software issue, the instrument cluster and/or eco stop/start, fails to function and displays, intermittently, Battery warning message and warning lamp."

Regards,
Scott

An update people.
My D4 had this upgrade done at its first service,back in august.
Since having it done I have noted that the Jaycar ciggy voltmeter shows the battery charging for longer periods.
Big test was friday,D4 parked in shed for 6 weeks,half expected to jump start it.Pleasantly found 12.8V on the jaycar voltmeter when I woke it up,no begging for a start up due to low voltage.
Andrew

[wbowner]

An update people.
My D4 had this upgrade done at its first service,back in august.
Since having it done I have noted that the Jaycar ciggy voltmeter shows the battery charging for longer periods.
Big test was friday,D4 parked in shed for 6 weeks,half expected to jump start it.Pleasantly found 12.8V on the jaycar voltmeter when I woke it up,no begging for a start up ue to low voltage.
Andrew

Is there any way to see if this has been done.

I can't leave my car for a week without getting the low battery warning. Mind you I have the anti rust thingy which uses power. I also have a traxide unit installed. I have left my car for a couple of weeks and had left it on a charger which was on a timer to run twice a week.

I had my car serviced recently and nothing was mentioned about it. I will follow up with them I reckon.

Many thanks,
Richard

[LandyAndy]

Try looking on your online log book,havent checked mine but the TSB upgrade was listed on the reciept.I had to tell them it needed doing as mine fell in that vin range.
Andrew

[wbowner]

Try looking on your online log book,havent checked mine but the TSB upgrade was listed on the reciept.I had to tell them it needed doing as mine fell in that vin range.
Andrew

I don't have access to the online log book. I have asked numerous times.
I went into TOPIX and it states no outstanding actions required.



Richard

[LandyAndy]

I don't have access to the online log book. I have asked numerous times.
I went into TOPIX and it states no outstanding actions required.



Richard

I asked about the online logbook,was told I needed to register on LRA's website to set it up,havent bothered yet.
Andrew

[wbowner]

I asked about the online logbook,was told I needed to register on LRA's website to set it up,havent bothered yet.
Andrew
I was not told that when I asked, you think they would do it automatically

Richard

[letherm]

I may have a faulty memory but I recall having to get something from my service department once for either this (service record or Topix setup) or some other record. Sorry I can't be more specific but it was a while ago.:(

Martin

I think it's the OSH - (Online Service History) code. It's required for registration.