Electrical Power in Shed

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Just wondering if there are any Electricians on the forum to ask a question?

The Setting: Back in 1981-83 I worked in a central wool classing shed & wool receival centre in Goulburn, NSW. For the lights they had a series of multi-strand wires tensioned up with turn-buckles. Running through each wire there were a series of porcelain insulators. A three core round flex wire was then clipped to each of the insulators in a series of loops. One end of the wire finished with a double fluorescent light set-up and the other end finished at a light switch.

The idea was that the light could be repositioned anywhere along the length of wire. It allowed the light to be exactly where it was needed to be too.

A similar series of wires - insulators and three core flex ran for power points.

Would a similar set up be legal in a large four bay domestic shed in Sunny Queensland?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Homestar]

Like exposed 240 wires with lights hanging off them? No, not at 240 volts under any circumstances. You could do this with an extra low voltage setup - less than 50 volts - there are commercially available catenary systems like this.

Or, do you mean you are using fully insulated cable that slides along a cable? In this case, then I can't see why not. I would use 3 core flex, then just fit a 3 pin plug to the end and plug it into a power point.

I've seen a fancier version that used unistrut secured to the roof and then some rollers inside that, with the cable looped between each roller.

Just make sure that the cable is secured so it won't run through on the catenary wire.

[dromader driver]

lionel,

the old installation may be a 32 volt lighting plant that had been converted. there are some low voltage lights available ( think Very trendy ) which are infinitely adjustable and provide good halogen work lighting. a lighting catalogue may show them but probably not bunnings or masters.

there is also a flat 240 volt cable that is designed to run supported on underhung loops with specific hangars . Think overhead crane. Maybe olex cables.



As bacicat has indicated 240 volt in a shed with bare wires is asking for trouble.

[Lionelgee]

Like exposed 240 wires with lights hanging off them? No, not at 240 volts under any circumstances. You could do this with an extra low voltage setup - less than 50 volts - there are commercially available catenary systems like this. No

Or, do you mean you are using fully insulated cable that slides along a cable? In this case, then I can't see why not. I would use 3 core flex, then just fit a 3 pin plug to the end and plug it into a power point.

I've seen a fancier version that used unistrut secured to the roof and then some rollers inside that, with the cable looped between each roller.

Just make sure that the cable is secured so it won't run through on the catenary wire.

Hello Bacicat & Dromader Driver,

Thank you for the replies.

Okay so I did leave a single word out! I did write though "A three core round flex wire was then clipped to each of the insulators in a series of loops." I should have added three core round insulated flex wire" A heavier version of the cable used for lights that hang down from a fitting in the ceiling. As pictured :)

Does the supporting wire have to be purchased specifically as catenary wire Catenary Wire 180m (http://www.4cabling.com.au/catenary-wire-180m.html#.VYifeUapH6M) and the turn-buckles?

Thank you for the confirmation that a system like this would be okay.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Blknight.aus]

when it was done off of 32VAC lights theyd just run the two wires bare hanging from the ceiling beams and then you just hung your light on a V shaped pair of wires from the 2 wires on the roof. Theres no reaon you cant do this with 12V led lighting or 12V fluro

for 240v hanging the light from a transfer "line" with a series of runners to support the power cable is legal and if your bunnings is big enough to stock all nylon runners you can get all the gear from them. there are some legalities with the clearances of the cable from the floor and of couse it should only be done by a qualified sparky..
b
I've set up similar stuff in army 40x40 tents using fencing wire for the running wire and zip ties for the runners but that wa using a light on a long lead that oplugged into a power point do wasnt a permanant install..

one thing thats worth doing is setting up a pully choke on the light pully as when you get too close to either end the loops will want to pull or push the light out of place. Its usually more of a problem at full extension.

[Vern]

For the cost and effort to do this, just put in extra flouro's.

[mark_coffey]

provided you only run 12 volt lights you might get away with it.
I cant see any system available on the market that will be passed by any supply authority for any domestic installation that will be 240v.


I have worked on and know of at least a dozen installations where 240v and 415v lights are connected to a bare catenery system, but the wiring as such is copper an strung from insulator to insulator with tensioning at each end to stop sag and cable whip, mind you the sheds are nearer 100years old and 40+ feet high!

[Don 130]

Like this, but with a tensioned cable instead of the rail. And normal insulated 3core flex instead of the tape stuff?

Don.

[Lionelgee]

Like this, but with a tensioned cable instead of the rail. And normal insulated 3core flex instead of the tape stuff?

Don.


Hello Don 130

Bingo - that is a very similar system to what I remember seeing in the old wool storage - classing facility, back in the early 1980s. The insulated three core flex was cable tied. The cable tie fitted around the groove of the white ceramic insulators shown in the attached photo.

The catenary wire ran through the centre of the ceramic insulators. This meant the ceramic insulators could slide along the catenary wire.

One end of the electric flex connected the twin fluorescent lights, while the other end of the flex was fitted to a light switch. The catenary wire was also fitted with clamps either end to act as stops so the light would not hit any framework.

Following your lead Don the side view of what the system looked like was similar to the second attachment. The image was sourced 24/06/2015 from http://www.sxprice.org.cn/images/sell-accessories_of_crane-z2c3bc73.html.

BTW the sides of my shed are 3.5 metres high before the roof pitch so I think I have enough clearance to run some catenary wires so they are out of the way.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Vern]

My shed has 3.5m high walls and is 5m in the peak, I have 8 x 2x36w flouros, plenty of light. Only dark spot is under the hoist when a car is on it.