D4 Dual Climate Control - am I missing something?

[DanW]

OK, So the D4 allows me to have the air con on at 21 in the drivers side, and SWMBO at 23 in the passenger side, but when I'm on my own is there anyway to turn just one dial to control both sides at the same temp?

Our passat has a button that effectively turns the dual part of, but I can't figure out if there is a way to do it on the D4?

[Tombie]

So you have to press a button and then turn a dial..

As opposed to turning 2 dials :D

(Answer - no, just turn both dials. Or in your case - the wife's one)

[LandyAndy]

I would have to check,pretty sure when the drivers goes to Hi or Lo the passenger matches,also I think they continue to match each other unless the passenger side gets changed as in our Territory.
In our Territory the drivers side changes both temps at the same time on the drivers side if they are matching,passenger can then change to a different temp.If they dont match the drivers side only changes that side.
In cold weather with no passenger,I run that side at 28deg,and driver at 18 to 21deg,seems to help with drowsyness that the heater can invoke.
Andrew

[Tombie]

I would have to check,pretty sure when the drivers goes to Hi or Lo the passenger matches,also I think they continue to match each other unless the passenger side gets changed as in our Territory.
In our Territory the drivers side changes both temps at the same time on the drivers side if they are matching,passenger can then change to a different temp.If they dont match the drivers side only changes that side.
In cold weather with no passenger,I run that side at 28deg,and driver at 18 to 21deg,seems to help with drowsyness that the heater can invoke.
Andrew

No point doing that Andrew!!!

There can only be a (iirc) 5 degree variance between sides according to the handbook (that thing in the glovebox :D )

[DanW]

So you have to press a button and then turn a dial..

As opposed to turning 2 dials :D

(Answer - no, just turn both dials. Or in your case - the wife's one)

Oh yes, the point is noted, however, you have to do that every time you want to change the temp.

A typical winter day here in Qld. I set off on my own in the morning and it is cold, so I turn both sides up to 28. By the time I am at work I'm too hot and will have turned it down to 25, then 23 (both sides each time).

When I hop in in the afternoon it's hot so I turn it down to 21 (both sides). Next day, hop in and both sides back up to 28.

So over a working week that is 15 unnecessary twists of a dial! :)

oh, and before you get all "first world problem" on me, VW - "the people's wagon", saw fit to correct the issue! :p

[Tombie]

Here's the amusing bit.

If you're comfortable at say 23 set it at 23...
It doesn't blow any hotter than on 28 :)
It just will charge towards 23 and hold there...

Like an air conditioner - and so many people misunderstand this - it doesn't blow any colder with the thermostat at 20 or 25.

[AnD3rew]

I argue about this with SWMBO all the time. She just doesn't understand climate control if she is hot she turns the fan speed up not the temperature down. If she is really cold she Cranks the temperature all the way to the top becaus she thinks it will make it warm up faster etc etc.

In her car it is never set to auto and she is always fiddling with the fans speed and temperature etc.

Just put the damn thing in auto and set it to the temperature you want. If you are too cold then turn it up a notch, if you are too hot turn it down a notch. It's not that hard.:twisted:

[aus86inch]

Please explain:confused:

[SilvaD4]

Please explain:confused:

She Who Must Be Obeyed....

[letherm]

Please explain:confused:
As SilvaD4 said, She Who Must Be Obeyed. The saying became popular when the series Rumpole Of The Old Bailey was on. Horace Rumpole, the main character (played by Leo McKern) always referred to his wife as She Who Must Be Obeyed.

Personally I prefer SWWLTBO (She Who Would Like To Be Obeyed) :p

Martin

[DanW]

Here's the amusing bit.

If you're comfortable at say 23 set it at 23...
It doesn't blow any hotter than on 28 :)
It just will charge towards 23 and hold there...

Like an air conditioner - and so many people misunderstand this - it doesn't blow any colder with the thermostat at 20 or 25.

So it sounds like you're reinforcing my thought that having a dual system is not only a pain in the donkey, it's completely useless (given the air coming out will be the same temp on both sides) so why make people turn 2 dials to change one setting?




Just put the damn thing in auto and set it to the temperature you want.
twice....


If you are too cold then turn it up a notch,
twice....


if you are too hot turn it down a notch.
twice....


It's not that hard....

...but twice as easy in a Passat....

[Stuart02]

Here's the amusing bit.

If you're comfortable at say 23 set it at 23...
It doesn't blow any hotter than on 28 :)
It just will charge towards 23 and hold there...

Like an air conditioner - and so many people misunderstand this - it doesn't blow any colder with the thermostat at 20 or 25.

Can you tell my wife that?! 😀

Sent from my C6903 using AULRO mobile app

[Stuart02]

Just to confirm, you are only sitting on one side of the car, right? 😜

Sent from my C6903 using AULRO mobile app

[Basil135]

My side of the car is on 23 during winter, and 22 during summer. And, by my side, I mean the side I am allowed to sit on, after SWMBO has decided who is driving. :angel:

Both little lights on the centre dial are on, meaning it is on full auto.

Auto, I understand means, automatic. The car will sort out the temperature by itself, according to what I have told it I want.

So, provided the other side is with 5 degree's C, I have air coming out at my desired temperature. :D

So, please explain why you feel the need to change BOTH dials? Put the bloody thing in auto, and twist your own knob.

[DanW]

OK, so the good thing here is that i have confirmed no one else really understands the Disco's climate control either. One person saying the air comes out the same temp anyway, and now someone saying what I thought was the case, the air comes out at the temp you set it at.

Anyway, to your question,



So, please explain why you feel the need to change BOTH dials? Put the bloody thing in auto, and twist your own knob.

Well it's like this, when I get cold I put both arms in my jacket - I know I'll still get warm eventually with just one arm in there, but given my jacket comes with 2 arms I use both to get me warmer quicker.

Call me crazy, but I do the same thing when I get hot - I take both arms out of my jacket - I know, I know, I know I should just take one arm out because that'll cool me down eventually, but I can't help thinking there are 2 arms attached to one body so why not just do the same thing with both.

Allow me to ask a question, why would land rover have a function that allows you to open all windows at once (when unlocking from the key fob), but not have a function that allows you to control all of the climate control at once?

I mean you could just lower 1 window right? The car would still cool down - in fact it would appear from all of the responses above you'd be a bloody idiot to think there was a need to do anything but lower one window - sheeez, and you wonder why the land rover wave is dying, turning into the land rover middle finger

[jspyle]

I think that the temp is determined by the return air. The air is put into the cabin at the same temp but the duration varies depending on the temp of the return air. No knowledge was used in this reply.
I set my side at 22 because it is straight up and down. Go figure.

[Stuart02]

It's just some fun. I'll try rephrasing. I like 21 deg so I set the climate control such. On a -2 deg morning, 21 feels lovely and warm, thawing me out first thing as it gets to 21 as fast as it can. On a 40 deg afternoon, 21 feels nice and cool as the aircon puffs out cool breezes to counter the radiant heat.
If the passenger disagrees vehemently, the LR engineers have determined the system can handle a max 5 deg difference, beyond which the passenger is slave to the driver. Personally I've never felt the other zone affecting my zone.
So the short answer is, there's no master control option and most people seem not to be worried by that. Perhaps VW had a cabin air flow issue they couldn't resolve or something...

[SimmAus]

I personally like the advancements that Landrover have made in Thermodynamics that prevent the air inside the cabin mixing up and all becoming one temp anyway. ;-)

[JamesH]

I still don't get why people need to change the setting ever. As far as I'm concerned they can lose both dials and have control three layers down in the touch pad but never mind. If it's not too much of a thread hijack, or a stupid question, do people have their aircon on all the time including winter? The aircon is not reverse cycle is it?

[Ferret]

If it's not too much of a thread hijack, or a stupid question, do people have their aircon on all the time including winter? The aircon is not reverse cycle is it?

Stops the windows from fogging up.

[nat_89]

I argue about this with SWMBO all the time. She just doesn't understand climate control if she is hot she turns the fan speed up not the temperature down. If she is really cold she Cranks the temperature all the way to the top becaus she thinks it will make it warm up faster etc etc.

In her car it is never set to auto and she is always fiddling with the fans speed and temperature etc.

Just put the damn thing in auto and set it to the temperature you want. If you are too cold then turn it up a notch, if you are too hot turn it down a notch. It's not that hard.:twisted:

HAHAA oh god yes mine is finally starting to understand that situation but jeeze it took a while!! I try to explain it to my mother in law with their prado she just jumps in and turns it to flat fan straight away they dont realise if you leave it 5 seconds after you start it it will go to flat out anyway then gradually slow down as it cools down!! Such a crack up i feel your pain!!

I can see my partner is getting the hang of it as her Audi seems to be always set on auto now.

[Melbourne Park]

Here's the amusing bit.

If you're comfortable at say 23 set it at 23...
It doesn't blow any hotter than on 28 :)
It just will charge towards 23 and hold there...

Like an air conditioner - and so many people misunderstand this - it doesn't blow any colder with the thermostat at 20 or 25.

What you say is dead right.

Then, are our wive's stupid?

Actually, in this case at least, they are not!!!

The reason being, is that they want it warmer first, and then, they want to drop the temperature back. And this makes complete sense.

Take for instance, the temperature of a top hotel in Singapore. They are cold - like 18 degrees. But if you walk into a ski lodge in Lech (in Austria), its 25 when you walk in.

When people are hot, they like to be frozen down, and then correct. And when they are cold, they want to stand in front of the flaming fire, and then move away when they are warmed up.

So, our girls know how to look after themselves. And we know that's the truth.

As to the air con setup - the best excuse is that one can operate those dials with gloves on!

In a Toyota with three zones, you can run the rear zone from the passenger side controls. Its fiddly, but it works.

Can I run the rear temperature from the front controls in the Disco?? I don't think I can ...

[RHS58]

SWMBO is an inveterate fiddler with knobs and dials as soon as she gets in the vehicle.
Doesn't even consider what's been set.
Within a millisecond she's cranked the AC to max on a cold day, or min on a hot day, then radio to ABC 612AM, and volume to so low only a dog could hear it.

Since the hot flushes have set in, AC always on LO.

No longer is she allowed to use the D4.
Have bought her a Honda HRV. Hormone Replacement Vehicle.

[Tombie]

What you say is dead right.

Then, are our wive's stupid?

Actually, in this case at least, they are not!!!

The reason being, is that they want it warmer first, and then, they want to drop the temperature back. And this makes complete sense.

Take for instance, the temperature of a top hotel in Singapore. They are cold - like 18 degrees. But if you walk into a ski lodge in Lech (in Austria), its 25 when you walk in.

When people are hot, they like to be frozen down, and then correct. And when they are cold, they want to stand in front of the flaming fire, and then move away when they are warmed up.

So, our girls know how to look after themselves. And we know that's the truth.

As to the air con setup - the best excuse is that one can operate those dials with gloves on!

In a Toyota with three zones, you can run the rear zone from the passenger side controls. Its fiddly, but it works.

Can I run the rear temperature from the front controls in the Disco?? I don't think I can ...


And THIS is EXACTLY what the D4 does...

It will "belt" the heat (or cold) into the vehicle as fast as possible to get to temp. So during this time the heat (or cold) as about as hot (or cold) as it gets... And gives the effect you mention.

Once it gets to temperature it then begins to regulate/cycle.

With the rear zone, when the front is set to auto it works with the front settings..

[shanegtr]

With the rear zone, when the front is set to auto it works with the front settings..

Not sure about the D4, but the D3 has 3 modes for the rear A/C. Off, auto(works from front settings as you mention) and rear control

[letherm]

Not sure about the D4, but the D3 has 3 modes for the rear A/C. Off, auto(works from front settings as you mention) and rear control

Yes, the D4 is the same.

[BMKal]

Put the bloody thing in auto, and twist your own knob.

Thanks Basil - now I know where I've been getting it wrong.;)

SWMBO has been twisting my knob, and I've been getting far too hot in the car. At times, I thought the air-con wasn't working at all. :twisted: :wasntme:

[LandyAndy]

Thanks Basil - now I know where I've been getting it wrong.;)

SWMBO has been twisting my knob, and I've been getting far too hot in the car. At times, I thought the air-con wasn't working at all. :twisted: :wasntme:

Must be those leather pants you are into Brian.The set you sent me seem to have that effect too;);););););)
THANK YOU
Andrew

[Tombie]

sheeez, and you wonder why the land rover wave is dying, turning into the land rover middle finger


Only because people who can not grasp the simplest of functions and their behaviour need an "idiot switch" to dumb down the technology.. And whine when they can not grasp the concept.

Scenario:

Wife likes 23, Husband likes 21 (husband drives car when wife is and isn't in vehicle).

Husband sets his side to 21, wife to 23.

IF husband wants both sides 21 he adjusts wife's to 21 (one action) - just like pressing a "control all" button.

Car is freezing cold... Say 10c...

As you drive (even if you Don't change the temps) the vehicle will - once it has warm coolant to use - pump hot air - not warm, not 21 or 23c but HOT air, in as fast as it can (fan speed auto) until the cabin sensor detects the desired temperature... Then it will regulate blend motors on each side to maintain the split 21/23.

So changing just ***1*** setting to the same as the other will optimise the temp to a single output temp across the entire vehicle.

Other than that - the Split - will only come into effect once the vehicle reaches that set point.

Just like the Split system on my wall here tonight...
It is set to Auto 24c - outside it's currently 2c...
The room is approximately 24c where I am sitting and the (inverter) system is very quietly trickling air into the room.

A quick check with a thermometer shows the air coming from the unit to be closer to 40c but being diffused into the room.

VW may have added a single button, Prado did too - and it was a pita - find the button, change the temp, remember to disable when passenger got it...

Both companies also added steering wheel audio controls - but left the knob on the console - because it's quicker (more efficient) when you want to adjust it quick!

Try it - find a temp you like - set it - and have the system on Auto - it will move the air around the cabin, cool the glass in cooling mode, cool you, your feet etc... When on heat it will prioritise the glass as the coolant comes up to temp to prevent fogging, then kick of the face and feet vents.

Just they way you say you'd like...

[Melbourne Park]

My wife's 325 BMW E-46 version, had central air controls that had a temperature control on them, just for them. So, she could have super hot feet, and cold air blowing on her face.

These days, we have to rely on computers.

Another annoying thing is that I always check that the left central dash air outlet, will aim towards my face. So that I can set the left side for cooler, and blow the air from the left central onto my face. But ... with temperature controls being only - what was it? - 5 degrees different, even that trick is getting less useful.

Why can't they allow me to have a top and bottom temperature. I'd love that and I reckon its safer too.

By the way, I reckon the D4 takes a long time for the heater to get hot ... is that normal?

[Redback]

I still don't get why people need to change the setting ever. As far as I'm concerned they can lose both dials and have control three layers down in the touch pad but never mind. If it's not too much of a thread hijack, or a stupid question, do people have their aircon on all the time including winter? The aircon is not reverse cycle is it?

I always have mine on, and In a way yes it is reverse cycle, it adjusts to the outside temps, so if it 15c outside and you have it at 22c inside, warm air will come in, if it's 30c outside and you have it set at 22c, cool air will come in.

The system is not rocket science, set it to where it's comfortable for you and leave it, there's no affect from whatever the passenger side is set too that I've noticed.

Baz

[Melbourne Park]

And THIS is EXACTLY what the D4 does...

It will "belt" the heat (or cold) into the vehicle as fast as possible to get to temp. So during this time the heat (or cold) as about as hot (or cold) as it gets... And gives the effect you mention.

Once it gets to temperature it then begins to regulate/cycle.

With the rear zone, when the front is set to auto it works with the front settings..

The problem with that though, is what people want, is for the vehicle to go to a higher or lower temperature for some time, and then correct back to normal comfort.

In winter, the normal setting might be 22 or 23. In summer, it may be 21 (due to sunshine radiating heat there are differences). But when you step into the car in the winter, the whole car is cold. Its radiating cold too. You probably want to the temp to go up to 25, and a female 26 or 27, and then have that high temperature sit there for 10 minutes. Then you get warm, and car gets warm too (the radiating surfaces) and that's when the little lady dials the temp back down.

Its the same in hot weather - set it at cold, until you get that way. Then dial in your comfortable temperature.

[Tombie]

My wife's 325 BMW E-46 version, had central air controls that had a temperature control on them, just for them. So, she could have super hot feet, and cold air blowing on her face.

These days, we have to rely on computers.

Another annoying thing is that I always check that the left central dash air outlet, will aim towards my face. So that I can set the left side for cooler, and blow the air from the left central onto my face. But ... with temperature controls being only - what was it? - 5 degrees different, even that trick is getting less useful.

Why can't they allow me to have a top and bottom temperature. I'd love that and I reckon its safer too.

By the way, I reckon the D4 takes a long time for the heater to get hot ... is that normal?

By product of being a Diesel - can take quite a while depending on outside temp... By a while I mean about 2-3 minutes... Especially noticeable if you pull almost immediately into stop/start traffic.

Agree with you on the warm feet, cool face... I've always considered that a safer option - And can achieve it on cold days - Feet and Screen works well - the screen cools the air as it passes over.

[Disco-tastic]

Agree with you on the warm feet, cool face... I've always considered that a safer option

My 20yr old camry does this well - the blanking plates behind the dash vents dont work so you can set feet to hot, turn the aircon on and get warm feet and an icy face.

Im happy to swap for a D4 if anyone wants :p

Cheers,

Dan

[Redback]

By product of being a Diesel - can take quite a while depending on outside temp... By a while I mean about 2-3 minutes... Especially noticeable if you pull almost immediately into stop/start traffic.


I don't think it's because it's a diesel, but more the interior size of the vehicle, I've had quite a few cars over the years, and I reckon diesels have always been quicker at heating up than the petrol vehicles of a similar size.

(eg) our Ford Explorer, Falcon station wagon

The D4 is the quickest of all, mainly due to it having rear air, it also cools quicker too, great for when we have the fridge in the car.

Baz.

[Tombie]

I don't think it's because it's a diesel, but more the interior size of the vehicle, I've had quite a few cars over the years, and I reckon diesels have always been quicker at heating up than the petrol vehicles of a similar size.

(eg) our Ford Explorer, Falcon station wagon

The D4 is the quickest of all, mainly due to it having rear air, it also cools quicker too, great for when we have the fridge in the car.

Baz.

Baz, I think he's referring to the point in time in which the vehicle has got sufficiently warm coolant to start pumping warm air...

I've noticed in Winter the engine barely runs warm by the time I'm at work ;)
Starts to just produce reasonable heat by about 2km from home... (no stops in my journey).

Once its going - it works amazing...

[Tombie]

The problem with that though, is what people want, is for the vehicle to go to a higher or lower temperature for some time, and then correct back to normal comfort.

In winter, the normal setting might be 22 or 23. In summer, it may be 21 (due to sunshine radiating heat there are differences). But when you step into the car in the winter, the whole car is cold. Its radiating cold too. You probably want to the temp to go up to 25, and a female 26 or 27, and then have that high temperature sit there for 10 minutes. Then you get warm, and car gets warm too (the radiating surfaces) and that's when the little lady dials the temp back down.

Its the same in hot weather - set it at cold, until you get that way. Then dial in your comfortable temperature.

Are you talking the metaphorical "walk into a room and stand by the fireplace"? :)

LR produce a perfect option for winter for this - Heated Seats :cool:

Seems I have a well informed female ;) She just sets her side in the D4 at 23 and leaves it there... And I just leave it there... My side - 21... And doesn't move... Rear set on Auto to match the front...

In the 90... We have CC pack.

[nat_89]

My D4 as soon as the car starts even on cold mornings even with it on auto will start blowing air and even if the air is freezing cold, where as the bosses Audi won't blow anything until it starts to warm up and then starts blowing warm air, i like the Audi idea there because jeeze its cold some mornings. But i must say the D4 has one of the best air con systems around even hot summers day it cools very very quickly and does a great job.

[Redback]

Baz, I think he's referring to the point in time in which the vehicle has got sufficiently warm coolant to start pumping warm air...

I've noticed in Winter the engine barely runs warm by the time I'm at work ;)
Starts to just produce reasonable heat by about 2km from home... (no stops in my journey).

Once its going - it works amazing...

Strange, mine starts blowing warm air less than a 1k from home, I work 43k from home, I'm warm for 42ks:p

[Tombie]

Strange, mine starts blowing warm air less than a 1k from home, I work 43k from home, I'm warm for 42ks:p

How many stop starts from home do you have?

I have none.. and I'm at work in 3km :cool:

[Redback]

How many stop starts from home do you have?

I have none.. and I'm at work in 3km :cool:

First lights are Heathcote, so 14 or 15ks from home.

Baz.

[Tombie]

First lights are Heathcote, so 14 or 15ks from home.

Baz.

Bet there's a few side streets and corners to be slowed / sped up for :cool:

I travel 3 streets :)

[DanW]

Only because people who can not grasp the simplest of functions and their behaviour need an "idiot switch" to dumb down the technology.. And whine when they can not grasp the concept.

There's the spirit...




VW may have added a single button, Prado did too - and it was a pita - find the button, change the temp, remember to disable when passenger got it...


Do me a favour and just read this in light of what you wrote above...

[Tombie]

Grasped the concept perfectly. It proved very poor in execution.. Just like their poorly mounted reverse camera, and screen which glares out easily..

See in my line of work - I get to balance my exposure to different vehicles... And the 2 with the best Hevac systems are the Fords and the LR.

In hot conditions had many a Toyo Hevac give up, or struggle to even remotely handle the task.

Regardless. If you are unable to understand and utilise the vehicle functions as provided - and the concept of Hevac systems causes confusion and frequent fiddling with your knob by you and your passenger then I would suggest further exploration of vehicle features prior to future purchases may prevent the obvious frustrations such an "oversight" has caused to your motoring pleasure.

[Redback]

Bet there's a few side streets and corners to be slowed / sped up for :cool:

I travel 3 streets :)

Only the first K, the rest is 80 and 100kph.

You walk ya lazy buggar:p

[Tombie]

Only the first K, the rest is 80 and 100kph.

You walk ya lazy buggar:p


Hahaha.

Just figured it out. You park on a solid driveway.
I park above soil... I'm therefore hypothesising that my engine is a bit colder in the morning.

As for walking - 0.7c here when I left for work.... I often take the motorbike - that wakes me up!

[JamesH]

I will try to take on the idea of running the aircon but I'm tighter than a fishes freckle and I always think about fuel economy.

I try to run both the front aircon occasionally to keep the seals in good knick, and the rear aircon less often for the same reason. Also when I have the Engel in the back. Makes me twitchy though thinking of all those 5 cent pieces being burned away even though it's cheaper than rennos on the compressors.

[Redback]

I will try to take on the idea of running the aircon but I'm tighter than a fishes freckle and I always think about fuel economy.

I try to run both the front aircon occasionally to keep the seals in good knick, and the rear aircon less often for the same reason. Also when I have the Engel in the back. Makes me twitchy though thinking of all those 5 cent pieces being burned away even though it's cheaper than rennos on the compressors.

Makes no difference on fuel economy and besides the heater works through the aircon anyway, it's climate control, so it's on or off, well as far as I know it works this way.

Baz.

[Basil135]

I will try to take on the idea of running the aircon but I'm tighter than a fishes freckle and I always think about fuel economy.

I try to run both the front aircon occasionally to keep the seals in good knick, and the rear aircon less often for the same reason. Also when I have the Engel in the back. Makes me twitchy though thinking of all those 5 cent pieces being burned away even though it's cheaper than rennos on the compressors.

Lol. A true D4 owner, if there ever was one. :D

Just remember the money you are saving on compressor repairs.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using AULRO mobile app

[Basil135]

Thanks Basil - now I know where I've been getting it wrong.;)

SWMBO has been twisting my knob, and I've been getting far too hot in the car. At times, I thought the air-con wasn't working at all. :twisted: :wasntme:

There is NOTHING I can say to this that won't get me in trouble.

:cool:

Sent from my GT-I9505 using AULRO mobile app

[Tombie]

I will try to take on the idea of running the aircon but I'm tighter than a fishes freckle and I always think about fuel economy.

I try to run both the front aircon occasionally to keep the seals in good knick, and the rear aircon less often for the same reason. Also when I have the Engel in the back. Makes me twitchy though thinking of all those 5 cent pieces being burned away even though it's cheaper than rennos on the compressors.

Have not seen a single increase or decrease in running the D4 with it off vs on...

[BMKal]

There is NOTHING I can say to this that won't get me in trouble.

:cool:

All's good. :D

I just thought that your "terminology" was an excellent explanation of one or two posts I had read earlier. :p

[BMKal]

Have not seen a single increase or decrease in running the D4 with it off vs on...

Same here. I quite often run all the way down to Perth & back with the air-con turned off this time of the year. Hasn't made any noticeable difference to the amount of fuel used on the 1,200km round trip. ;)

And if I want to vary the temperature in any of the four passenger zones in the vehicle - there's four little buttons on the top of my door panel that I can operate with a single finger without moving my hand at all ....................

[letherm]

I will try to take on the idea of running the aircon but I'm tighter than a fishes freckle and I always think about fuel economy.



The guys on the Myth Busters show actually tested this once. No discernible difference between air con on with windows closed and air con off with windows open.

[Melbourne Park]

Are you talking the metaphorical "walk into a room and stand by the fireplace"? :)

LR produce a perfect option for winter for this - Heated Seats :cool:

Seems I have a well informed female ;) She just sets her side in the D4 at 23 and leaves it there... And I just leave it there... My side - 21... And doesn't move... Rear set on Auto to match the front...

In the 90... We have CC pack.

Re the fireside affect, to a degree, yes. I miss heated seats actually.

You don't understand the point though. You are indicating that for you, 21 is it. All year round. All the time.

I've been involved with heating a ski lodge (I'm an original member and an ex secretary of a ski club), and I also was advised by the prime architects of Dinner Plane village near Mt Hotham in Victoria (McIntyre Partnership Pty Ltd). Keeping a ski lodge comfortable is an issue and heating is expensive in the mountains. Hence I've realised that people like an interior to be cozy (i.e. warmer) in a cold climate, especially when they come into an interior from a cold place.

We might put our ladies down as being stupid and inept (and I get upset by my wife who doesn't follow the thermostat but just turns the temperature up to a ludicrously high level, and then later drops it down). But in actual fact, such women are behaving logically and following a practice that not only works for them, but actually follows established human behaviours.

One day when you set 21 degrees, the car computer will evaluate the outside temperature, scan your external temperatures and push the temperature up to 24 degrees for 6 minutes and then drop and down over a few minutes back to your set 21 degrees. But our setups don't do that and hence people (semingly women) do fiddle with the temp controls.

Rolls Royce (now Bentley) have for 30 years had up and lower temperature controls as well as passenger and driver. It frustrates me that companies still avoid such technology.

[Melbourne Park]

My D4 as soon as the car starts even on cold mornings even with it on auto will start blowing air and even if the air is freezing cold, where as the bosses Audi won't blow anything until it starts to warm up and then starts blowing warm air, i like the Audi idea there because jeeze its cold some mornings. But i must say the D4 has one of the best air con systems around even hot summers day it cools very very quickly and does a great job.

My D4 works like the Audi, and Toyotas and Lexus's - when in Auto mode, it doesn't push air until the air is quite warm.

I have found that the D4 takes longer to get to that stage than my 150 Prado did (a Kakadu which has a thorough computerised heating system).

I have wondered whether the delay in getting warm air coming in is due to the Land Rover engineers wanting to get the motor up to temperature as quickly as is possible. However, if I switch to manual, the air still doesn't have the temperature that the Prado would have had in a similar time from start and driving situation. Perhaps this is due to the V6 having more metal to heat up compared to the straight 4 cylinder in the Toyo 3 litre. Perhaps Toyota uses more diesel while the engine is cold, and hence has a faster warm up. Getting warm faster is good for pollution too as the catalyser doesn't work properly when cold. I've read praise too in the UK about how powerful the Prado heater is, and I thought such reports reflected perhaps on the Land Rover not being as high in capacity. I guess I learn more in the snow, but I have a foot issue and cannot ski this year.

I do though think the Land Rover air feel is better than any car I've been in, and better than the Kakadu Prado, in that the car never feels stuffy which IMO can cause fatigue. Although IMO the Disco has some vagueness in the temperature sensors knowing what is going on, as a few times I have found that its a bit cool on 21 but on 22 its too warm.

[nat_89]

My D4 works like the Audi, and Toyotas and Lexus's - when in Auto mode, it doesn't push air until the air is quite warm.

I have found that the D4 takes longer to get to that stage than my 150 Prado did (a Kakadu which has a thorough computerised heating system).

I have wondered whether the delay in getting warm air coming in is due to the Land Rover engineers wanting to get the motor up to temperature as quickly as is possible. However, if I switch to manual, the air still doesn't have the temperature that the Prado would have had in a similar time from start and driving situation. Perhaps this is due to the V6 having more metal to heat up compared to the straight 4 cylinder in the Toyo 3 litre. Perhaps Toyota uses more diesel while the engine is cold, and hence has a faster warm up. Getting warm faster is good for pollution too as the catalyser doesn't work properly when cold. I've read praise too in the UK about how powerful the Prado heater is, and I thought such reports reflected perhaps on the Land Rover not being as high in capacity. I guess I learn more in the snow, but I have a foot issue and cannot ski this year.

I do though think the Land Rover air feel is better than any car I've been in, and better than the Kakadu Prado, in that the car never feels stuffy which IMO can cause fatigue. Although IMO the Disco has some vagueness in the temperature sensors knowing what is going on, as a few times I have found that its a bit cool on 21 but on 22 its too warm.

I might have to get mine checked out then as I've found cold mornings it starts freezing me straight away haha!!

I did notice in my Prado 150 they heat up very quickly the heater. I think i read something from LR sometime ago about how the new models try and heat the engine up as quick as possible for economy so you could be onto something there.

Toyotas do have generally very very good heaters and air conditioners.

I will agree there with its brain not knowing whats going on as sometimes I've got it set at 25c on a warm day and have it on auto and then its still got the fan at a higher speed so i have to just turn it down to speed one because if i turn it up to 26c then it gets to warm, so yeah sometimes it can be a bit off the mark. Nothing to important but just a bit annoying.

When i had a Lexus RX350 jeeze it had good air con most summer days it had to be on 25.5c otherwise it was just to cold!!

[Melbourne Park]

Baz, I think he's referring to the point in time in which the vehicle has got sufficiently warm coolant to start pumping warm air...

I've noticed in Winter the engine barely runs warm by the time I'm at work ;)
Starts to just produce reasonable heat by about 2km from home... (no stops in my journey).

Once its going - it works amazing...

As a Toyota owner, injector issues are always a heated topic*.

I think you should be taking your motor cycle to work - I think short runs in common rails are a bad thing. They need to get up to temperature, as otherwise you get deposits and premature injector issues. I do wonder about school mums and Discos, that do short trips from home to school.

So too after hard running, just switching the engine off is said by many to be a bad idea. Its best to let the engine idle a couple of minutes if you've been towing and working the motor. Evidently doing so prevents deposits attaching to a very hot central injector component as that part will cool down if idled for a short while, hence preventing particles attaching, which is a bad thing.

I have wondered too about the stop start technology that LR are using on these engines now in the UK ... which runs counter to what I just said. I can imagine pulling a van up an long hill and coming into a town, and I stop the car at a light ... and the engine turns off. Surely not good technology but it does make the fuel consumption better when under specific economy testing.


*pun intended

[Tombie]

Correct. And one of the reasons our vehicles are then taken out of town for a nice hard run each weekend to clear them out.

[Ben_Vapid]

Aulro delivers yet again. More than I ever needed to know about my climate control :D:p:angel:

[DanW]

Grasped the concept perfectly. It proved very poor in execution.. Just like their poorly mounted reverse camera, and screen which glares out easily..

See in my line of work - I get to balance my exposure to different vehicles... And the 2 with the best Hevac systems are the Fords and the LR.

In hot conditions had many a Toyo Hevac give up, or struggle to even remotely handle the task.

Regardless. If you are unable to understand and utilise the vehicle functions as provided - and the concept of Hevac systems causes confusion and frequent fiddling with your knob by you and your passenger then I would suggest further exploration of vehicle features prior to future purchases may prevent the obvious frustrations such an "oversight" has caused to your motoring pleasure.

OK, I'm calling a truce here because this post is way more frustrating than the system I was enquiring about - I just wanted to know if the Disco had a function like the Passat. Turns out the answer is "no"

I don't think it is an issue of me not understanding the function - Like the auto-lowering suspension. I 100% understand why they made it the way they did, doesn't mean I like it, and didn't stop me asking if there was a way around it

[DanW]

Just to add to the thread, have been playing around with the auto function and noticed that if you press and hold recirc to lock "on" then auto disables, but if you just hit the recirc button once then auto stays on.

Explains why I haven't used the auto function much. Driving a lot in heavy traffic I quite off lock recirc on (sucking in my own filth as opposed to someone else's :)).

Have also been playing around with the coolant temp versus zircon temp. Early in the morning the climate blows cold but seems to come good around when the coolant hits 50 degrees C

(My Garmin is connected to a bluetooth dongle in the diagnostic port - hence I can watch the coolant temp rise)

[LRD414]

(My Garmin is connected to a bluetooth dongle in the diagnostic port - hence I can watch the coolant temp rise)

Dan, could you provide more details of the Garmin and dongle. Do you mean a satnav Garmin? What else can the dongle read?

Cheers,
Scott

[DanW]

I have the Nuvi 3790 and the dongle is called the 'Garmin ecoRoute HD'. It will give you;

Current fuel use
Battery Voltage
Intake Manifold Pressure
Air intake temp
Coolant Temp
RPM
Plus a couple of others

I think the whole thing was designed to help you drive more efficiently, but it does have a little screen that lets you configure about 5 little analogue looking dials.

It also claims to be able to read and reset fault codes but I've never been in a situation to have to do that.

I just had a quick look on Garmin's site and I can't see them there any more but there are plenty out there on ebay etc

[Tombie]

Just to add to the thread, have been playing around with the auto function and noticed that if you press and hold recirc to lock "on" then auto disables, but if you just hit the recirc button once then auto stays on.

Explains why I haven't used the auto function much. Driving a lot in heavy traffic I quite off lock recirc on (sucking in my own filth as opposed to someone else's :)).

Have also been playing around with the coolant temp versus zircon temp. Early in the morning the climate blows cold but seems to come good around when the coolant hits 50 degrees C

(My Garmin is connected to a bluetooth dongle in the diagnostic port - hence I can watch the coolant temp rise)

Not sure if you are aware of this, but there is a Hevac filter with Activated Charcoal as well - makes a big difference....

The standard filter is just that - pollen filter only.. The Charcoal one is worth the upgrade!!!!

[LRD414]

The Charcoal one is worth the upgrade!!!!

I didn't know that. Any clues as to where to source one Tombie?

Cheers,
Scott

[Tombie]

I didn't know that. Any clues as to where to source one Tombie?

Cheers,
Scott

Dealers have them, as does Rover Lord.. Give Mario & Heather a call...

Genuine ones are around the $150 mark, then there's after-markets for around the $40-$70 mark...

[Greatsouthernland]

Dealers have them, as does Rover Lord.. Give Mario & Heather a call...

Genuine ones are around the $150 mark, then there's after-markets for around the $40-$70 mark...

Good tip - aftermarket - the genuine pollen filter at circa $130!! is approx 20% of the first service cost...:angel: I know...unless you have the corporate plan etc..

[tiddy]

My wife & I went to Wollongong from Canberra on Saturday and it's been pretty cold in the ACT this week, but I had my side -drivers set @ 22, but it made difference what she set her side too, it just blew cold air, unless I put my side to Hi, then her side went warm but as soon as I turned mine back to 22, hers went cold again.

Maybe it's the blend doors playing up...my old Jeep had blend door issues & it's a pain.

Cheers

tiddy

[nat_89]

My wife & I went to Wollongong from Canberra on Saturday and it's been pretty cold in the ACT this week, but I had my side -drivers set @ 22, but it made difference what she set her side too, it just blew cold air, unless I put my side to Hi, then her side went warm but as soon as I turned mine back to 22, hers went cold again.

Maybe it's the blend doors playing up...my old Jeep had blend door issues & it's a pain.

Cheers

tiddy

Hmm thats not good I've not had any issues with my air con like that normally ours pretty much stays at the same settings all the time.

[Tombie]

My wife & I went to Wollongong from Canberra on Saturday and it's been pretty cold in the ACT this week, but I had my side -drivers set @ 22, but it made difference what she set her side too, it just blew cold air, unless I put my side to Hi, then her side went warm but as soon as I turned mine back to 22, hers went cold again.

Maybe it's the blend doors playing up...my old Jeep had blend door issues & it's a pain.

Cheers

tiddy

What mode were you in?

[tiddy]

What mode were you in?

Tried it both manual & auto, made no difference, ideas?

[Tombie]

OK.. Only one more question before I run out of ideas...

Was the A/C button on?

[tiddy]

OK.. Only one more question before I run out of ideas...

Was the A/C button on?


Looks like you're now out of ideas..lol, yeah it was on but when the engine was turned off and some time later re started, it worked reasonably good, until I stopped, turned it off, went into a shop, restarted & nothing close to warm from the passenger side.

I don't know if these have blend doors like my old Grand Cherokee did, but this is exactly have the GC behaved?buggered blend doors.

Back to the dealer i think along with the blue smoke on start up and the drivers seat that won't stay at the height I set it too.

Disappointing to say the least with these issues.

tiddy

[Tombie]

Seat height is likely you accidentally pushing down on the height adjuster as you climb out.
Dealer test is to set height and then tape a spacer in for a week and see if it stays at height.

Blue smoke - 3.0l ?? Maybe turbo drain issue...

Hevac may just need a reset...

[Melbourne Park]

I have the Nuvi 3790 and the dongle is called the 'Garmin ecoRoute HD'. It will give you;

Current fuel use
Battery Voltage
Intake Manifold Pressure
Air intake temp
Coolant Temp
RPM
Plus a couple of others

I think the whole thing was designed to help you drive more efficiently, but it does have a little screen that lets you configure about 5 little analogue looking dials.

It also claims to be able to read and reset fault codes but I've never been in a situation to have to do that.

I just had a quick look on Garmin's site and I can't see them there any more but there are plenty out there on ebay etc

Wow wow wow!!!

I want this.

I have had charging issues in my van ... and a good way to know what is going on, is to check the alternator voltage ... evidently there is a secret code so you can view this on the screen ... but I've not found how to do it. Your device might achieve that!!!

[Melbourne Park]

...

When i had a Lexus RX350 jeeze it had good air con most summer days it had to be on 25.5c otherwise it was just to cold!!

My wife has an RX-350. It does heat up quickly.

But then ... so too does my 1997 Prado petrol (no diesels then) GXL auto. I drove it the other day, and the heater is fantastic!

So - why does the Disco take a while to heat up?

Well - one reason would be the mass of metal.

The other reason too, is that its not consuming much fuel. Starting up, a 3 litre when cold and running at 60kmh, might be using 9 litres/100km fuel usage until warm (my guesstimate). The RX-350 would be using I reckon 16 litres per 100km, and the Prado 3.4 litre 20 when warming up. So considering the Disco is using a lot less fuel, its logical it would take longer to heat up.

Maybe its the fuel use, and the metal in the block too. I know that cast iron retains heat like almost nothing else (which is why cast iron stove cook so well), but the metal that the Ford/Peugeot diesel is unusual, and quite brilliant, but I do wonder if it has some different thermal characteristics compared to traditional iron in the Prado V6 circa 1997, and of course, very different from the all alloy Toyota RX-350 (Lexus) donk that's drinking lots of fuel while warming up.

[nat_89]

My wife has an RX-350. It does heat up quickly.

But then ... so too does my 1997 Prado petrol (no diesels then) GXL auto. I drove it the other day, and the heater is fantastic!

So - why does the Disco take a while to heat up?

Well - one reason would be the mass of metal.

The other reason too, is that its not consuming much fuel. Starting up, a 3 litre when cold and running at 60kmh, might be using 9 litres/100km fuel usage until warm (my guesstimate). The RX-350 would be using I reckon 16 litres per 100km, and the Prado 3.4 litre 20 when warming up. So considering the Disco is using a lot less fuel, its logical it would take longer to heat up.

Maybe its the fuel use, and the metal in the block too. I know that cast iron retains heat like almost nothing else (which is why cast iron stove cook so well), but the metal that the Ford/Peugeot diesel is unusual, and quite brilliant, but I do wonder if it has some different thermal characteristics compared to traditional iron in the Prado V6 circa 1997, and of course, very different from the all alloy Toyota RX-350 (Lexus) donk that's drinking lots of fuel while warming up.

To right there my thinking was the difference between an alloy and cast iron block. But your right it would chew fuel warming up. I can't say I pay to much attention to fuel usage. Most Toyotas have great air con and heaters with the exception of the new 79 series.

[Melbourne Park]

To right there my thinking was the difference between an alloy and cast iron block. But your right it would chew fuel warming up. I can't say I pay to much attention to fuel usage. Most Toyotas have great air con and heaters with the exception of the new 79 series.

I think there are three broad issues, none related to how good the heating system is compared to for instance Toyotas.

The "issues" are IMO for me.

1- Turn off the Rear Air Outlets Manually to provide full heat to the front row (3rd Row Cannot be closed though), turn off the fan in the roof climate controls, plus manually close the air outlets low down ( at the rear of the centre binnacle ) that feeds air from low down to the middle row.
2- Thermal characteristics of Compacted Cast Iron
3- Lack of fuel use compared to other Chassis 4WDs
4- Radiator Cooling Fan rotates at start up which can't help.

1 - I found that the rear air vents (for the 2nd and third rows, in the roof and in the rear coming from the roof inside the pillar), do in fact output air at start up, I think at all times. I have now closed the circular air vents that feed the middle row seats from the roof, and after doing that, is now a heap more heated air coming out in the front seats during warm up.

2 - the motor does hold its heat for quite a few hours in Melbourne currently 10 degrees ambient. I started the vehicle after maybe three plus hours and there was a lot of heat in the motor, because the heating was producing warm air, straight away. This characteristic is due to the thermal characteristics of iron, but the D4 is holding heat much longer than for instance my 1997 Prado V6 3.4 litre cast iron V6, or my now sold Prado 150 series Kakadu 3 litre 4 cylinder Diesel did.

So, I thought perhaps the thermal characteristics of the metal block might be a bit of an issue

And so it is. Thermal conductivity W/m?K :

Compacted Cast Iron: 36
250 Grade Grey Iron: 46
Aluminium: 130
Link: www.foundryworld.com/uploadfile/200912130928203.pdf

There are various Grey Iron grades but the 250 is common for motors. Which conducts thermally 28% better than the compacted caste iron, while alloy conducts heat over 3.5 times better.

So even my Prado 3.4 litres petrol V6 with its caste iron grey metal block, will conduct heat much better than the Land Rover diesel, which also uses less fuel hence would take longer it seems to get heat out of the heater. And the old Prado does heat up much quicker. It also looses its heat quicker too, quite a lot quicker IMO.

4 - Start-up to operating temperature is perhaps not as efficient as it could be? I'd have thought that was a major issue, as pollution equipment (like catalytic converters) work when the engine is warm, and pollution penalties maybe come into play with a slow warm up. But I do not know if that is true. I do not think fuel economy runs are performed from a cold start either. And economy was judged from a cold start, how such tests could be have a uniform test. The Disco's radiator fan does rotate while the motor is cold, which must slow warm up. But it's a better system than an all electric one IMO.

The D4 though has excellent heating when warm, and its auto adjustments are better than Toyota's. Which is saying something. I'm not sure aobut the air effectiveness yet, as I've not been is severely hot conditions yet.

[Tombie]

All clutch fans rotate when cold, they're just not "engaged"

I extreme heat. The D4 with front and rear AC is fantastic.

Having sweated my arse off for hours in the poor AC of the Toyota Prados it's no contest.

[gghaggis]

I've been somewhat bemused with all this talk of the D4 heating system being slow to heat, as I've never thought of it as tardy when heating up the car (maybe the controls aren't to everyone's liking - fair enough). So I tried a little experiment, first drive of the day from home to work on two consecutive days:

Day 1. 2015 Subaru Impreza (alloy block): outside temp = 8C, defrost cycle from start (has the blowers on full).

Day 2. 2010 RRS 3.0 ltr (composite graphite block): outside temp = 6C, defrost cycle from start (has the blowers on full).

The Subaru doesn't have a temp gauge, rather a temp warning light that glows blue until the car is in normal operating range. I took the equivalent in the Sport to be when the gauge was out of the "cold" bottom section of it's gauge.

By the above definition, both cars were 2.6 km from home when they were "warmed up". Air was warm at this stage, hot within 600m of this point. Traffic was identical (no lights or stops along the way).

So can't see the problem myself.

Cheers,

Gordon

[SimmAus]

Maybe we should ask the Defender brigade how they feel about all this? ;-)

[Tombie]

Maybe we should ask the Defender brigade how they feel about all this? ;-)

I have (she was sitting next to me on the lounge) - her Heater doesn't even start getting warm before she gets to work...

Hence why she has the Cold Climate Pack ;)

[Melbourne Park]

...

Day 1. 2015 Subaru Impreza (alloy block): outside temp = 8C, defrost cycle from start (has the blowers on full).

Day 2. 2010 RRS 3.0 ltr (composite graphite block): outside temp = 6C, defrost cycle from start (has the blowers on full).

The Subaru doesn't have a temp gauge, rather a temp warning light that glows blue until the car is in normal operating range. I took the equivalent in the Sport to be when the gauge was out of the "cold" bottom section of it's gauge.

By the above definition, both cars were 2.6 km from home when they were "warmed up". Air was warm at this stage, hot within 600m of this point. Traffic was identical (no lights or stops along the way).

So can't see the problem myself.

Cheers,

Gordon

I should try this defrost trick on some of my cars.

Does the RRS have a completely digital instrument panel? With my D4, the temperature gauge is a vertical bar, which never seems to move. Perhaps its faulty ...

I went to dinner tonight at a restaurant 3.6km from my house, using Maps.google. When we got there, the air was a little warm. But coming back, the heat was warm ... the motor retained its heat alright. But it wasn't warming very much when we arrived ... I actually used the defrost function going there, as the windscreen was a bit foggy. However, I don't turn the air-con off. Maybe I should do that too.

[Tombie]

Think of AC as its proper term: Air Conditioning.
(Climate control). The vehicle controls when the cooling / heating effects are required.

[Melbourne Park]

Think of AC as its proper term: Air Conditioning.
(Climate control). The vehicle controls when the cooling / heating effects are required.

The AC is the air conditioner. Which is different IMO, from climate control. If one wants a winter demist, then IMO, with the air conditioner on, the demist will work quicker, because the air will be drier. But the air from the vents - I think will be cooler during warm up, if the air conditioner is turned on.

Maybe I should turn the AC off on warm up ..

[BMKal]

With my D4, the temperature gauge is a vertical bar, which never seems to move. Perhaps its faulty ...



The "vertical bar" never moves in any D4. ;)

It's the little horizontal line or arrow to the left of the "vertical bar" that moves up and down to indicate the temperature. :confused:

[Melbourne Park]

The "vertical bar" never moves in any D4. ;)

It's the little horizontal line or arrow to the left of the "vertical bar" that moves up and down to indicate the temperature. :confused:

I'm going to have to take some pictures I think ...