Buying my first Discovery

[Creaser]

Hello, what a wonderful resource to have joined.

I'm a long time admirer of the Discovery brand! I finally have one in my sights to buy. It is a D3 has 80k on the clock year 2007 SE
It will be second family car for touring and a little dirt track use.

I test drove it for an hour in normal drive mode and also had it checked over by a mechanic. Mechanic says it has no signs of doing any serious off road work. Previous one owner lived in the city.
During the test drive whilst cluelessly fiddling around with off road modes the yelllow suspension warning light came on.

The compressor could be heard operating for around a minute.
Switching engine on and off it reoccured.
Went for a drive, stopped and started and light did not activate.

Next day the mechanic scanned and found just one code, suspension module fault. He cleared it and it did not reappear, nor did the warning light.
He also noted compressor was running for a long time(without a sign that the car was being levelled or raised)
I understand from the posts on this forum that the fault could be a number of things, ranging in price to fix from $50 to $1500 :)

Id like to buy it and fix the issue myself and so Id like to negotiate a discount, that reflects the fault. Question is what is a fair discount?
What can be learnt from only one code present on the computer? Can codes be cleared whilst a fault still exists?

Cheers

Creaser

[4evershiva]

the original OEM compressor which is a hitachi may need to be upgraded to the AMK compressor which is around $750 second hand or $1500 brand new. this upgrade will improve the compressor working and will take less time for the suspension operation and definitely reduce the occurrence of suspension faults. Also bear in mind that as the D3 is around 80k, it will need a transmission steel pan upgrade done around the 90 - 95k service which will cost you around $800. So to be fair, you could negotiate around the $1000 as both these upgrades are not a must but a recommended one by major mechanics.

[lpj]

It really depends on what they are asking for now. Getting a couple of thousand discount of what is an unrealistically high price is not going to help.

I'd be checking it's service schedule and make sure it has a good history. These engines need to have the right oil at the right time or else you could be looking at a lot more than a few K for a new compressor.

Having said that, 80 thou is a spring chicken if its been looked after properly! Mine is in for its 75K 3 year service today and it still seems like a new car to me!

Hope it works out well for you.

[Tombie]

Compressor or height sensors are pretty darn cheap if sourced Ex-UK..

Try and knock off about $3k

[Creaser]

The vehicle has been serviced on time at a dealer.

According to the The Land Rover dealer, I will not be able to speak to them about its history as I am not yet the owner.
Nor is the registered used car dealer able to see the history, unless he pays stamp duty and registers the vehicle in his name!

The car isn't a "person" and as long as I dont know who the previous owner was what privacy is being invaded!

And when/if I do buy the car I will see previous owners name on the service book anyway!


Creaser

[sniegy]

Don't forget, it is still 8 years old.
Has it had its timing belt changed?
It was due last year! (168K Km or 7Yrs)(As per service Schedule)

Something else to take into consideration.

[lpj]

The vehicle has been serviced on time at a dealer.

According to the The Land Rover dealer, I will not be able to speak to them about its history as I am not yet the owner.
Nor is the registered used car dealer able to see the history, unless he pays stamp duty and registers the vehicle in his name!

The car isn't a "person" and as long as I dont know who the previous owner was what privacy is being invaded!

And when/if I do buy the car I will see previous owners name on the service book anyway!


Creaser

When I was looking around for mine, I found a nice looking one up Traralgon way. The dealer assured me that it was "well taken care" of etc etc. I asked if I could speak with the previous owner if he was willing to speak to me. The dealer checked with them and then put us together. No invasion of privacy.

If he wants to sell you the car, he can at least make a call to the previous owner and ask if he'd be willing to chat. If the previous owner doesn't want to speak, that would be a concern to me.

None of us here have any vested interest but we are all willing to chat!!

[Creaser]

It is a petrol engine so no timing belt.
Any other parts that neeed to be changed at 7-8 years?


Creaser

[Melbourne Park]

I have a close relative you went to Gaol, and who declared himself bankrupt. Incidentally, a bankrupt back than was allowed $7,000 from the Receiver to purchase a vehicle as a life aid to assist in earning income. The bankrupt wanted me to buy his D3 from the Receiver, until his court case. I spoke to the Receiver and he agreed with the "deal". This was two and a half years ago now.

It was a perfect low mileage D3 (the owner lived in Port Melbourne and took a tram to work), a pastel blue colour, I recall perhaps two tone. He mainly used it to go skiing. It was the top spec V8 (petrol) model. The receiver only wanted $15k ... the owner said that he was surprised it was only worth that much (wholesale).

I did not buy it because I did not want to profit from others misfortunes.

So, IMO petrol D3s can be bought very cheaply.

[Creaser]

Have negotiated a little discount and dealer is obliged to fix the problem should it reoccur. He is having a look at the compressor filter. Warning light has not activated since my test drive.
During warranty servicing are the off road modes activated and checked?
This is a classic townie car so it is feasible off road modes were not ever used by the owner, what effect, if any, does this have on the air suspension maintainance and level of wear and tear?

Thanks for the feedback, I've purchased it (!) on the basis the dealer has agreed and is bound by warrenty to fix the issue :)

creaser

[Melbourne Park]

I am looking forward to posts about air compressor wear.

IMO, the off road modes are just computer actuations. Not using them should make no difference.

As far as the air issues go - IMO the vehicle uses the air all the time anyway. So, IMO the pump is always "active". When you get into it, there's a change. Park somewhere, and there's a change. Put something in the back, and there's a change.

So ... I use my air all the time. I let down the vehicle for people to get in and out of the vehicle. I adjust the air when I connect a trailer. I raise it for speed bumps. Also, people have had compressor failures, who have proclaimed they never used the air adjustment.

For off road though - I think guard for it is necessary, to protect the compressor, as the shielding is not good for that part of the car. I need to get mine done actually ...

[Creaser]

Happy to report that all is well after 2k kilometers.

Do the two line indents in the parking brake switch illuminate when it is activated?

I need a roof rack, to do two things
1/ Fix a 500 liter box to carry tent an packs for 5 or 6 kids plus driver
2/ General duty

Ideally a short rack to prevent overloading?
Which rack is most easily removed?
If fitting rails is it worth fitting full length from the get go?

Creaser

[Disco-tastic]

Nice buy! Glad to see its going well!

Cheers

Dan

PS. Pretty sure it doesn't exist unless there are pics! :p

[LRD414]

Creaser, the Rhino Pioneer Platform is both short and easy to fit and remove as needed so long as it's mated with Rhino rails. Short rails work well for a short rack. Long rails would give extra flexibility to carry long items.

Scott

[Creaser]

Creaser, the Rhino Pioneer Platform is both short and easy to fit and remove as needed so long as it's mated with Rhino rails. Short rails work well for a short rack. Long rails would give extra flexibility to carry long items.

Scott

Thanks LRD, I checked out the Rhino recently.
I am particularly interested in how secure the roof rail is as I will be carrying some equipment on the roof. I'd like the platform and the rails to stay put under at least, a minor accident.
I understand that extra rivets (Rhino use stainless:) can be added to the rail to secure it to the roof, anyone done this? Rhino have been fabulous with this discussion, and they have proved the strength of their system to me.
I could always remove roof lining and strengthen roof rails from the interior but funds do not allow at this point.

Creaser

[BRV]

I have only just put on a pioneer rack on my D4 with the rhino rack rail system. Seems strong enough as is without extra reinforcement. I have swung my weight off it, stood on it and it did not budge an inch.

[LRD414]

I am particularly interested in how secure the roof rail is as I will be carrying some equipment on the roof. I'd like the platform and the rails to stay put under at least, a minor accident.


I'm happy so far. Survived to Cape York and back without issue loaded as per photo ...... full wheel plus a few other bits and pieces.

97343

The rails seem solidly attached. However, I am planning to change the bolts to standard socket head stainless rather than the silly security ones which have soft heads. I have already changed the ones that mount the rack to the rail.

Scott

[Creaser]

Thanks scott, I guess you are not worried about rack thieves?

Creaser

[LRD414]

Not particularly worried. I only fit the rack when I need it and store it at home most of the time. So it's not left for long periods too often.

Scott

[4evershiva]

more than the rack, its the light bar or spotties that the thieves target in the Brisbane area...

[strydes]

I understand that extra rivets (Rhino use stainless:) can be added to the rail to secure it to the roof, anyone done this?
Creaser
Yeh I did it. The two bolts for the bracket onto the roof rails straddle the factory fixing points for the rails onto the roof. The instructions say that if you are having anything bolt in behind the rear fixing point to do the rivets at the very back.

Scary process drilling your roof but once done those big rivets visibly pull the rail down to sit flush right to the back and the whole thing is rock solid. If you're going to load it up I'd say do the rivets.

[Melbourne Park]

Any issues with noise? Some have a wind cover at the front, and people say those reduce wind noise ...

[Tombie]

And that is why I would only fit genuine rails..

Bugger drilling into the roof!!!!