View Full Version : Underbonnet sound deadening
Captain_Rightfoot
11th June 2005, 04:45 PM
I just had to give a report on this stuff. We fitted some underbonnet sound deadening to the Defender the other day. It cost fifty bucks, and about half an hour to fit it.
Before the car left the garage we thought "just wasted 50 bucks style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif " However, it made a huge difference. I mean the car is still the noisiest car I've ever owned, but the noise is now acceptable to us. You can open the flappers and hear yourself think. It has reduced all engine noise by a bit, which makes all the difference. The only downside is you can't hear the turbo as much style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif
Anyway, it was underbonnet sound deadening from this place style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif
http://www.tru-fitcarpets.com.au/
kaistuff
11th June 2005, 10:01 PM
do you think the FELT WITH BITUMEN BARRIER UNDER LAY for the inside of the fire wall can improve the noise level further?
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Kai
Captain_Rightfoot
12th June 2005, 05:46 AM
Originally posted by kaistuff
do you think the FELT WITH BITUMEN BARRIER UNDER LAY for the inside of the fire wall can improve the noise level further?
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Kai
I'm sure it would. I reckon it would be a big job though to install it prorerly though. 8O I would think that if you took the time to install this stuff you'd be getting close to disco td5 noise levels.
The stuff I put on only took half an hour to fit, which I really liked style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif It made a far bigger difference than you would think too.
Maybe give the underbonnet stuff a go, and see if you're happy with that first. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif
101RRS
12th June 2005, 10:37 AM
Years ago I had a series 3 that had a blown engine - when it was out I put in underbonnet deadening and some on the firewall (different type). I also put some on the inside on the floor and inside firewall - after that I could even listen to the radio (Albiet with difficulty) and no longer needed to lip read when my passenger talked.
The stuff is worth considering - heavier is better.
Gazzz
110county
12th June 2005, 10:09 PM
Hi All
Have had a little experience with sound deadening in my county, wasnt happy with felt/bitumen type as when it gets wet (surely not inside the car!!!) it will rot and stink so an alternative was found. Found out the ducks nuts of sound deadening is Barium impregnated vinyl which comes in rolls and different densities from 4kg/sqm to 8kg/sqm i bought a roll for about $200 (60kg) and it was just enough to do the whole car inside doors and all. This however needs to be "decoupled" from the body so i decided on closed cell foam which wont absorb water and is quite cheap as camping matresses simply glue to vinyl and in it goes. Worked a treat also put some under the bonnet with reflective foam cover, was great improvement till I took out the v8 and put in the isuzu anyone want some used sound deadening :wink:.
In the right car (not a 20yr old county) would be great but tyre noise and wind noise can seem to make up for any loss of engine noise. Theres a mob in Dandenong (Vic) who were very helpful with expertise and had a warehouse full of different products and threw in a few freebees, name of Pyrotek, ph 97069077
Well thats 10c worth
cheers
Rosco
13th June 2005, 02:13 PM
Originally posted by Captain_Rightfoot
I mean the car is still the noisiest car I've ever owned, but the noise is now acceptable to us.
http://www.tru-fitcarpets.com.au/
style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif ...... Ya get that with Fenders
Cheers
P.S. Shouldn't you be back 'o Bourke by now style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif :?:
rmp
13th June 2005, 07:43 PM
It makes a huge difference. About 4db, having measured it. It's the single most effective way to reduce noise. I used some special material from Accustop/Purple Pig. Recommended.
Michael2
16th June 2005, 09:33 PM
Has anyone tried applying sound proofing to the bell housing. I'm guessing that this "drum" would conduct quite a bit of sound from both the motor and the transmission.
I suppose on a series vehicle the floor can be lifted off and some applied to the top of the bell housing. I might get around to trying this one day, but if anyone has tried it, let us know.
Obviously this would be in conjunction with underbonnet, firewall, underseat and transmission tunnel insulation, but I'm thinking that insulating the bell housing may have a discernable effect.
I suppose a sound deadener on the inside of the bell housing (that won't foul any clutch operation) would be more effective.
Ideas from acoustic engineers are welcome.
Rosco
16th June 2005, 09:39 PM
Originally posted by Michael2
Ideas from acoustic engineers are welcome.
How about industrial quality ear muffs :?: style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif
Michael2
17th June 2005, 05:19 AM
But I want to be able to whisper in the car style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif
River
17th June 2005, 06:03 AM
In a series Dreaming style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif
Maybe with intercom headsets style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif
Did'nt BB use some black Tar paint a while back on all the archers and underbody , with good results?
Quiggers
17th June 2005, 10:23 AM
Years ago when I bought an empty Transit van, I used sheets of something I cant remember, but it wasn't expensive and looked the colour of masonite, maybe 4 ml thick.
I bought a can of contact and glued it to all the bare steel panels and the floor, after filling in the corrugations. Worked a treat, was as dead as a sound studio. Interior drumming from panels is a problem. Sonex looks pretty funky!
GQ
VladTepes
20th June 2005, 12:28 PM
Yeah I had also wondered about the water thing. Don;t need anything that absorbs the stuff.
ALso what about heat ? This must be a consideration for anything in the engine bay eg underbonnet.
Surely soundproofing the OUTSIDE of the firewall would be a complete PIA as there's so many wires etc going through it. I can see how doing the inside of the footwell might help a bit.
Someone on here once recommended some stuff they bought somewhere at Eagle Farm in Brisbane. Anyone want to fess up ?
Reads90
23rd June 2005, 09:07 AM
I tell what will make it even quiter . Put a strip of rubber or felt between the bonnet and the bulkhead. Where they meet at the hinges . Rubber will make it look better. this will stop alot as the noise as it comes straight out from the engine and straight tough the vents and into the cab.
disconut
9th July 2005, 06:13 PM
:idea:
Hi all,
I have just finished putting 5mm thick "Formshield" under the bonnet and floor mats, continuing up the sides of the manual gearbox tunnel panels. I also placed some on the tops of the removable under seat panels.
This has resulted in a quieter, cooler cabin.
Formshield is a plastic type insulator, (much like that which already exists under the floor mats), except that it has an aluminum foil sheet attached to one side.
Under the bonnet, it was cut to fit the 3 x "cutout" panel area's. The one large centralised shape, and the dogleg either side. This has allowed me to have the vents open without the loud rattle of the diesel entering the cabin.
Total amount used was just under 2 sq metres at $16.95 metre. Purchased from Clarke Rubber Toowoomba.
I test drove the vehicle up the Range and around Toowoomba for 1-2 hours before returning home. The top of the bonnet was cool to the touch as were the floor mats, (for a change). style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif
The type of glue used was a spray on "Headliner Adhesive" (contact type glue). Spray the bonnet panels and spray the back of the insulator material, (grey side), give it a few minutes, place them together accurately, and bingo, its stuck for life.
I did not glue the floor mat area's or the underseat panels. The existing mats held it in place without any problems.
Total cost $66.90. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif
Trev.
disconut
10th July 2005, 08:30 AM
Originally posted by Reads90
Put a strip of rubber or felt between the bonnet and the bulkhead. Where they meet at the hinges.
I checked this morning, and the 03 has a rubber strip on the bulkhead gutter, much like the Disco II. Wether it is actually touching when the bonnet is closed is another matter.
Trev.
Captain_Rightfoot
10th July 2005, 11:48 AM
Good stuff trev, I might give that a try when I have some spare time style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif
rar110
10th July 2005, 05:57 PM
Sound Control at Eagle Farm Brisbane sell a very dense something impregnated lining designed for commercial air con. I had the fire wall out of my 110 so I lined it with that. Also took the frame out of the bonnet and lined the bonnet skin with it as well. Car not going yet so don't know how effective yet.
VladTepes
10th July 2005, 06:19 PM
Again do these hold water ? If they do - no good.
sniperator
20th July 2005, 12:45 PM
Where can i get the rubber seal that goes around the windscreen vents? Is some available for that specific job or can i buy some rubber from somewhere and stick it on. Anybody made it before?
abaddonxi
20th July 2005, 05:04 PM
When I had the 120 Isuzu I put in two types of sound deadening foam with great success.
Bought it with no muffler plus engine loud plus really loud gear box and transfer case.
Went to Reverse Garbage in Marrickville who had a supply of three types of foam. Reverse Garbage recycles and resells industrial offcuts and overruns.
For $30 I got enough to do the under the hood and the entire cab including enough to line the roof - never got to that bit - plus leftovers.
The three types are:
Sponge foam thats about 12mm thick backed with dense rubber covered by reflective foil
8mm, or so, scratchy carpet stuff backed with the rubber and foil
25mm, or so, fluffy stuff backed by rubber and foil
I used the 25mm stuff, foil side to the engine, inside the hood. I took the hood off - easy with two, impossible by yourself - and cut out patterns to fit inside the structural members. I glued the fluffy stuff in with silicon. I didn't seal around the edges, but easily could have to keep it waterproof.
The inside of the cab - all across the floor, over the gearbox and transfer case, inside the seat boxes, under the seats, and up the back of the cab I did with a combination of the other two. The carpet one is very durable.
Made a huge difference.
Simon
one_iota
20th July 2005, 08:25 PM
Originally posted by VladTepes
Again do these hold water ? If they do - no good.
A product using "closed cell" foam should be used.
George130
20th July 2005, 08:38 PM
I have used tar paint in old datos. It is good for sound proofing and rust proofing.
Also great to hide the rust from rego style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif
If your not carefull though it doesn't dry properly, My boot stayed sticky for 12 months but never rusted even whith heaps of water sloshing around in it. I never replaced the rubbre seals on the boot, doors and windows. When your a teen you will try to get away with anything :twisted:
disconut
21st July 2005, 03:59 AM
Originally posted by one_iota+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(one_iota)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-VladTepes
Again do these hold water ? If they do - no good.
A product using "closed cell" foam should be used.[/b][/quote]
The "formshield" that I used is a closed cell foam type stuff with the Aluminum on one side. It has really cut the cabin heat down. It will not suck up or hold moisture.
cheers.
abaddonxi
21st July 2005, 07:58 PM
Strikes me that it doesn't matter if the stuff holds water or not. Even a rubber mat is going to trap water inside your truck in ways that you don't want.
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