MY10 parking sensors not working

[Blade74]

I have just picked my a new (second hand) my10 tdv8 luxury vogue today and driven to work.
It's been for sale at the car yard for about a month.
The front and reverse park sensors don't light up or beep at all.
I can't manually push the park sensor button and activate them.
The reverse park camera is working fine though.
I believe they share the same fuse number 5 in the boot.
I've checked that and it's fine.
The only other symptom I have is the battery came up with a battery low warning on my dash when I was stopped and had the ignition on for 5 mins.
I'm going to try and charge the battery tonight and hope there's nothing regular draining the battery.
The nrma inspection on the car said the battery was fine but needed charging.
Is it playing up due to a low battery? Which I've read can create lots of electrical gremlins.
Does anyone know why the park sensors may not be working?
Also if I do need a knew battery what do people recommend? I'd rather buy a battery less often and spend more on quality and reliability.
I'd also prefer the largest storage battery.
Cheers

[Blade74]

I put the battery on charge for a few hours and it seemed to be fully charged.
Still no parking sensors at all.
Is it possible they're turned off in software?
I'm also getting weird gremlins like a suspension fault popped up for 10 seconds then disappeared.
Then at another time it said coolant level low then disappeared after 5-10 seconds.
Seems strange.
I don't know if it's a separate problem but the rear left heated seat isn't working either.
I hope these gremlins aren't permanent.

[RR44TDV8]

I put the battery on charge for a few hours and it seemed to be fully charged.
Still no parking sensors at all.
Is it possible they're turned off in software?
I'm also getting weird gremlins like a suspension fault popped up for 10 seconds then disappeared.
Then at another time it said coolant level low then disappeared after 5-10 seconds.
Seems strange.
I don't know if it's a separate problem but the rear left heated seat isn't working either.
I hope these gremlins aren't permanent.

First up Blade....well done and congratulations! The issues you are having should be covered by a warranty from the dealer, no?
You're in Gymea.......give Dave from East Coast Suspensions a call..... 9531 8966.......and tell him Grant with the white Range Rover and blue Porsche suggested he had an auto elect mate who did some work on my Porsche when Dave had it in his shop. The guy is in Taren Point, same as Dave, and he was good.....very good. I waited with my car whilst he sorted some electrical issues with it before a race weekend and he was very methodical and well versed with Euro wiring techniques. Ask Dave for the contact and tell him whats wrong. I am sure you will find it is a faulty switch and all will be good for very little $$

Good luck,
Rgds
Grant

[Blade74]

Thanks Grant,Yes it does have a statutory warranty of 3 months or 5000kms.
The car yard reckons he's sending a mobile auto elec to look at it.
But I know if you aren't a Landrover specialist it can be a struggle.
Just trying to work out if it's something else like the battery to rule it out.
With the other random gremlins happening it's hard to know if it's all related.

[drivesafe]

Hi Wade, the battery has to be in top condition or you get the very problems you are having.

NOTE, a load test does not mean a thing with Calcium/Calcium batteries and if you battery has been abused, RR not driven for a long period, a few weeks or more, then your battery may have been flattened at some time.

Also check the alternator, especially if your mileage is up round the 100,000 kms mark.

[Blade74]

Thanks Tim,
I reckon the battery is original so it might be worth replacing.
What do you recommend for a battery?
I don't mind spending the money on a good reliable one.
Also what the best way to test the alternator?
If I go into the hidden area of the touch screen I can check the voltage whilst running.
What should it be?
Or is here a better way to test?
Cheers

[Blade74]

The car is at 72000kms

[RR44TDV8]

Hi Wade, the battery has to be in top condition or you get the very problems you are having.

NOTE, a load test does not mean a thing with Calcium/Calcium batteries and if you battery has been abused, RR not driven for a long period, a few weeks or more, then your battery may have been flattened at some time.

Also check the alternator, especially if your mileage is up round the 100,000 kms mark.

And a word to the wise.......I would listen to Tim before me! This is his domain!

[Blade74]

The service section at Trivett today emailed me the full service history of the car.
I'm so amazed at the service the guy gave me over the phone and via email.
I didn't even buy it through them.
So it turns out the battery was replaced under a recall 2.5 years ago.
So it should be ok. Maybe it just needs some regular charging and driving.
This is the battery:


95884

[Blade74]

Also I inspected the park distance control module in the left side boot quarter panel and discovered it was damaged due to moisture or water.
So time to replace the module.
Does it need any calibrating?


95885

[Blade74]

95886

[Blade74]

95887

[Blade74]

95888

[Blade74]

When I get a new one I might try and mount it the other way so it's not a cup for water and moisture.

[RR44TDV8]

Blade, there is a commonly held theory on inter web forums that goes like this..........."it never happened without pictures"

Show us your new Range Rover........either sneak a couple in here or stick them in the "show us your........." thread.

Reds
Grant

[Blade74]

95908

[Blade74]

95909

[Blade74]

Hey Grant,
Just a couple from the ad on car sales .
More to follow soon. ;-)

[RR44TDV8]

Hey Grant,
Just a couple from the ad on car sales .
More to follow soon. ;-)

Nice! Such a cool car........

[Blade74]

I'd love to change the rims to black ones and fit some big MTR style Tyres.
Or maybe fix the rims that have a couple of gutter scrapes and get them powder coated for off road tyres..
Depends on cost.

[RR44TDV8]

I'd love to change the rims to black ones and fit some big MTR style Tyres.
Or maybe fix the rims that have a couple of gutter scrapes and get them powder coated for off road tyres..
Depends on cost.

Powdercoat will fill the scrapes if they're not too bad........

[Laurie]

Blade
You might try this spray from Jaycar before you go to the expense of replacing the module. The Army use it for radio's etc and it most cases it works ! Just spray and clean with a small fine paint brush.

INOX-MX3 Lubricant, Corrosion Inhibitor - Can | Aerosols | Chemical Aids | Service Aids | PRODUCTS | NA1024 | Jaycar Electronics (http://www.jaycar.com.au/Service-Aids/Chemical-Aids/Aerosols/INOX-MX3-Lubricant%2C-Corrosion-Inhibitor---Can/p/NA1024)

Worth a try !

Laurie

[Blade74]

Thanks Laurie,
I had a closer look at the board when I opened it and there was definitely some damage of some components.
So I doubt the spray will work.
I've ordered a second hand working one from the UK and its $120 delivered.

[Blade74]

I received the eBay parking sensor module today.
It made the button flash in the front but no beeping.
So it worked more than the original one but still didn't work.
The original didn't make the button light come on at all.
****.......

[chaybra]

I received the eBay parking sensor module today.
It made the button flash in the front but no beeping.
So it worked more than the original one but still didn't work.
The original didn't make the button light come on at all.
****.......


I havent been following the thread too much so im not sure if its been covered yet, but check if the sensors are "clicking" there are youtube vids on how to do this, but its as it says on the tin...if each individual sensor isnt clicking, none will work and the light on the switch will flash (like mine). it will only take one on either front or the back so u can swap them around to get either working.

[Blade74]

Thanks Chaybra.
The issue is that the switch flashed for 4-5 seconds then goes out.
By the time I even get near the parking sensors to hear a click the button has stopped flashing.
I can't keep the function on.
Is that normal if it's just an actual sensor?

[chaybra]

Thanks Chaybra.
The issue is that the switch flashed for 4-5 seconds then goes out.
By the time I even get near the parking sensors to hear a click the button has stopped flashing.
I can't keep the function on.
Is that normal if it's just an actual sensor?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89engAgn-XA

This is how to check the clicking, not sure how long it should last for...ill go have a look

[chaybra]

Mine has a solid long beep from the rear, then flashing continues for some time. My rear and front sensors are all unplugged at this point.

[Blade74]

Hmmm that's definitely different to mine.
Mine will only let a long beep out when you first start the car and engage reverse.
The it flashes for not long and goes out.
If I put it in park and then back in reverse again no beep at all.

[Graeme]

The long beep on the 1st attempt indicates that the system has been disabled for this ignition cycle, hence no beep on subsequent attempts.

[Blade74]

Hey Graeme. Why would it be disabled?

[Graeme]

There could be a short or open circuit for the sensors or possibly some other reason. My D4 had an intermittent short circuit on 1 sensor due to a wire hanging loose then rubbing through its insulation. The long beep is the tell-tale sign that the module has detected a fault, which also implies that the module itself is working.

[Blade74]

Thanks mate,
Does anyone know what each connector is for?
I'm assuming the biggest connector is the incoming.

[Graeme]

There's a fair chance that the module is similar to the D4's which has a 6-wire connector for each of the front sensors and the rear sensors and the 3rd connector having the ignition power, earth, buzzer, medium speed can-bus pair and dash switch and tell-tale LED.

[Blade74]

Thanks Graeme,
So if I get my multimeter out do I measure across the pins?
What's the best way to check the sensors are shorted or open circuit?

[Graeme]

For starters I would check the wires behind the bumpers for being intact as they're probably the most vulnerable.

[chaybra]

At the end of the video i posted, it showed what the individual harnesses did on the computer.
Firstly I would get some WD40 and spray in each connector and plug back together. Considering you had a water ingress problem causing green death, the fault could even be visible.

[Graeme]

Proper contact cleaner would be better because WD40 can conduct.

[Blade74]

Ok so I'm still waiting for my iid tool to turn up 😖
Yesterday I took my car to Graeme Cooper
To get the transmission oil changed and also pan and filter.
Thy also changed my battery to a Deka Eliminator with the same sort of specs as the Varta G14 but made in USA.
So hopefully all electrical gremlins will be banished. 😜
Whilst there they plugged in the computer and told me one sensor on the rear bumper is faulty.
I now know where to look and which exact wire/sensor to check..
It's one of the inner sensors so will be a bumper off job.

[Blade74]

Reporting back it appears electrical gremlins are all gone. Also I took off the rear bumper and the parking sensor had a broken wire. I resoldered it and the park sensors are now all working.