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Brisruss
5th July 2015, 02:55 PM
Hi Guys,
I have a Series 2A 109 six cylinder with a a 186 Holden engine I have been restoring. It has a a flat-top tray. I am up to the exhaust and was wondering if anyone has some pictures of where it is routed and fixed.
It had a short exhaust with a muffler under the passengers side seat and exited just behind the front door on the passenger side. I doubt it is suitable for a roadworthy.
Thanks
Russ

Slunnie
5th July 2015, 09:57 PM
Same vehicle but doing a rebuild rather than a restoration. I just ran a short exhaust in the same place. Not sure if it's roadworthy, but I can only assume that's how people used to run them.

I'm not sure how to get a picture ink off the iPad, but if you scroll down on this link you can see how I've run it.

www.slunnie.com :: View topic - Packer (http://www.slunnie.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php't=298)

JDNSW
6th July 2015, 07:00 AM
Application of the rule depends on the state and their inspectors, but the general rule is that the exhaust must exit behind all openings to passenger compartments and either directly to the rear or to the right.

John

mick88
6th July 2015, 07:08 AM
You might find it better to route the exhaust right through to the back and have the muffler rear of the cab. With the exhaust exiting just behind the cab in front of the rear wheel you will end up with the muffler somewhere near the passenger side floor pan and it will make for a rather hot "office" in summer. We had a series one 109 with a side exhaust and in summer my wife couldn't put her feet on the passenger side floor. Never had any complaints in winter though.


Cheers, Mick.

Lionelgee
6th July 2015, 01:45 PM
Hello BrisRuss,

Short or Full Length Exhaust?

From the first photograph it is pretty obvious why I have to replace the under cabin short version of the exhaust. Plus as mentioned in an earlier email, if the breeze is blowing the wrong way and the passenger has their window open it is not nice, as the fumes come in and gets them. Okay so the holes in the system might add to this experience. The short system is fitted to a 202 Holden red motor in a Series III LWB

One of my other Series III LWB has a Land Rover six cylinder engine and a full length exhaust system. Rebus my Holden powered vehicle will be returning to the full length system.

Luckily, Rebus still has most of the hanging brackets for the full system there :).

Kind Regards
Lionel

Lionelgee
6th July 2015, 01:49 PM
Hello Russ,

One last photograph of the full length system! The ex-army mud-flap, which is set towards the back of the tub, obscures the tailpipe outlet on the far left of the photograph.

Kind Regards
Lionel

Lotz-A-Landies
6th July 2015, 02:03 PM
The ADR's at the time of original assembly require the exhaust to exit after the last opening window. In that case the side exit behind the cab is acceptable.

Two things that you may want to consider: The wheel behind the side exhaust gets very dirty from the exhaust particulate matter.
Some roadworthy inspectors have problems with side exit exhausts on light vehicles because current ADR require rear exit. This may cause more hassles getting the roadworthy than routing the exhaust to the rear in the first place.

JDNSW
6th July 2015, 03:53 PM
The ADR's at the time of original assembly require the exhaust to exit after the last opening window. In that case the side exit behind the cab is acceptable.

.......

Yes, but the original exhaust would have gone right to the back - and inspectors can probably require this to be adhered to.

However, as you comment, regardless of the actual legal situation, it is probably easier to reroute the exhaust to the back than to fight it!

John

Brisruss
6th July 2015, 07:51 PM
When I posted this I thought I might not get a response.
Thanks for all the replies.
The fixing points on the chassis appear to have a an exit point behind the rear drivers side wheel close to the back of the chassis so it seems you can put it anywhere. I have also seen them go out through the tunnel for the rear PTO.
I can check with the Engineer when I get to that stage as if it has not been registered before I might need a compliance plate for the 186.
Next is bleeding the brakes which is a bit of a pain with the six.
The end is in sight.

Thanks everyone,
Russ

Lionelgee
6th July 2015, 08:03 PM
When I posted this I thought I might not get a response.
I can check with the Engineer when I get to that stage as if it has not been registered before I might need a compliance plate for the 186.
Next is bleeding the brakes which is a bit of a pain with the six.
The end is in sight.

Thanks everyone,
Russ

Hello Russ,

I went to my local mechanical repair place in Bundaberg whom I have been going to for years. The current price is $240 for the blue plate inspection - once it has been checked to make sure the conversion is not a bodgey brother's bit of kit. Then $70 for a roadworthy. Then off to the nice folks at the Department of Transport with proof of ownership and pay rego.

Not that I am at that stage yet.

I need to sort out my ignition, exhaust and brake system :) ... My sanity to do with Land Rovers.

Kind Regards
Lionel

Brisruss
7th July 2015, 05:05 PM
Hi Lionel,
You sound about the same stage as me then. Wiring was a big job as I started from nothing. Some of it is not pretty but everything works.

Have you put seatbelt in?

Cheers,
Russ

Lionelgee
7th July 2015, 11:23 PM
Hi Lionel,
You sound about the same stage as me then. Wiring was a big job as I started from nothing. Some of it is not pretty but everything works.

Have you put seatbelt in?

Cheers,
Russ


Hello Russ,

There was a set of inertia reel seatbelts already installed on my Series 3. I need to replace the driver's and passenger 3 point belts because they are extensively frayed. Cross fingers that the replacement belts are installed by doing a straight bolt off - bolt on swap over!

I was lucky that I had a very good base to start off with on my Holden powered Series 3.

One of my other Series IIIs is a stock Land Rover 4 cylinder diesel and its exhaust pipe runs through the PTO cross member holes and then kinks to exit to the rear edge of the back spring hanger.

Have fun on your restoration.

Kind Regards
Lionel