Looking to buy D4

[Konradical]

Hi all,

Been a while since I have been on here, but basically I have done a full loop from when I was on last. Left sunny Katherine in 2012 to only come back again this year.

My partner and I are looking to ditch the not so family and pocket friendly Triton in the last quarter of this year, early quarter next year and am slowly pushing her in the direction of a D4 over a Prado.

The reason being is that she would prefer seven seats, we need to tow a camper, it will be used off-road in many different conditions and have a child friendly back seat. Im aware that the Prado can offer all of this, but there are millions of them here and if we want to find it in the carpark, we maybe searching for a while. Also the SDV6 in the D4 is superior.

We have spoken to a owner of a 2012 example recently and he was towing a similar camper to ours and was still managing to get 8-10l/100, where I know the 4cyl in the Prado will push that figure to 11-12, albeit still somewhat better than the 15-16l/100 we are currently getting.

Meanwhile to my question; I would prefer to buy new and I would prefer to buy local and that to me is 330km away in Darwin. I know this isnt the correct place for this question but I am locked out of the dealer section for some reason. Has anyone out there dealt with the Land Rover dealership in Darwin and what were your experiences. I have no problems with you PM'ing me on this one if required.

Thanks in advance!

[Stuart02]

I can't remember who but I've actually seen some quite positive comments here re the Darwin dealer support (have a search maybe), which frankly surprised me as whenever I went past I got the impression they weren't even particularly interested in selling Land Rovers. I had an out of warranty D2 at the time so found a good private mechanic near Berrimah and can't comment on servicing. It won't surprise you that a few times I found it significantly cheaper and faster to get parts - eg hoses and a fuel pressure regulator - from the UK than order them from LR Melbourne via LR Darwin

[BobD]

I would be wary if one of the major drivers of you thinking is to save fuel. Mine would certainly get the same fuel consumption as your Triton or worse but many other people say that they get very good fuel consumption. The D4 is probably nearly one tonne heavier than the Triton and shaped like a brick so even great engineering can't overcome the laws of physics. I would treat any improvement in fuel consumption as a bonus not a major requirement.

[sniegy]

PM "dmdigital"
He lives in Gove & sometimes uses the Darwin dealer, so has first hand experience & can comment probably better than most.

He purchased his D4 & Defender from me in Melbourne.

Good luck.
Cheers

[LRD414]

I think from reading other posts that perhaps "Mungus" has used the Darwin dealer so may also be worth a PM. I'm not sure though.

[Konradical]

Thanks guys..

Il be sure to ask the members that you have recommended to PM.

You are right Stuart02, it is usually because I have been looking for the dealership that I have noticed it, but with this being the territory, its pretty much Toyota country and I would say that LR just let its reputation do the selling rather than trying to change peoples (brainwashed) minds.

BobD, what engine does your D4 have? The owner of the 2012 example had the SDV6, which has a bucket load more torque than the TDV6 (600Nm vs 520Nm) and that would be where the fuel savings come from while towing I believe.

Our Triton has the 3.2lt and even unlanden on a run to Darwin it will get 12ish L/100. The fact it has a bull bar, spotlights and a basket roof rack may contribute to that as well. The claim is around the 8-9L/100 for the engine/model. Thats pretty poor for a modern diesel, especially when I can manage 10L/100 or better @ 130kmh in a 5.7lt Commodore ute.

But you are right, its not the only factor that I will get caught up in. There are many other reasons to get a D4 and like they say, if you dont expect-you cant get disappointed.

Thanks again guys.

[BobD]

My car is the equivalent to the SDV6 with 600 Nm. Same engine, just not called SD in 2010. It is heavier with the extra gear on board, but that is about all (see my signature).

[nat_89]

I probably wouldnt buy a D4 just with the thought of saving fuel they can be heavy on fuel depending on how your right foot goes and for me its not really a big issue as i love the driving experience.

They are so much more than that and no matter which way you go you will be happy, if it were me i would purchase new as its just much easier to have a full warranty and have the dealer support.

[BobD]

Thanks guys..

Our Triton has the 3.2lt and even unlanden on a run to Darwin it will get 12ish L/100. The fact it has a bull bar, spotlights and a basket roof rack may contribute to that as well. The claim is around the 8-9L/100 for the engine/model. Thats pretty poor for a modern diesel, especially when I can manage 10L/100 or better @ 130kmh in a 5.7lt Commodore ute.

Thanks again guys.


130 in a 4WD ute is not the best way to save fuel and the gearing is probably wrong in the Triton for this.


On the couple of times I have been to Darwin in the D4 I have tried to keep to about 110 but 130 is tempting and I have been known to give in to the temptation. Above 100 the brick shape of the D4 takes over and the fuel consumption increases greatly. There are several posts about this in fuel consumption threads. At 130 I would be getting at least 15 l/100 and probably more. The Commodore has a much smaller frontal area and drag factor than the Triton, let alone the D4, and the extra speed does not have as much effect.

[Mungus]

Konradical,
I did purchase my 2014 D4 HSE through the Darwin dealership as Scott - LRD414 presumed. I did this to stick with locals as I knew they would be the ones servicing and repairing any problems. I did search the country for better prices, but was prepared to spend a couple of $K more just to go local. As it turned out they had the second best price anyways and after freight came closer than I expected.
I will say I have had nothing but pure pleasure and great service in my dealings with them. They have two techs in their that are very experienced in my opinion. The service manager has been nothing but understanding, proactive and supportive in all my dealings and actually pushed LRA into providing me with 3yr free servicing as a good will gesture resulting from a fault I had early on. (Check my posts)


I really think a big part of dealer/service outcomes is the buyers/owners attitude throughout. You know 'what goes around, comes around' Treat them with respect and honesty and you will get that in return. After all they do need to follow LRA processes. (well at least until that leads nowhere) They are aware of my modifications and have no issue with them. No need to shut LLAMS down as they are aware of the fault they may read.


I would buy from them again under the same circumstances.

[LRD414]

....I really think a big part of dealer/service outcomes is the buyers/owners attitude throughout. You know 'what goes around, comes around' Treat them with respect and honesty and you will get that in return. After all they do need to follow LRA processes. (well at least until that leads nowhere) ....

I agree 100% and that's been my experience with dealers too (Brisbane and Sunshine Coast).

Scott

[Konradical]

130 in the Triton?? I think not. Light steering, bouncy front end and not to mention the high pitched noises coming from the combination of snorkel and roof racks, 115 max, especially on the Katherine-Darwin road with all the tourists and mining vehicles. The tyres are the best thing about that car. If it wasnt for them, who knows where it would be.

But I do understand about the fuel economy. My 89 Rangie which is my daily driver is getting at least 21L/100, so really anything better than that is winning.

LRD414, Mungus- Thanks. We have been leaning more and more towards a new vehicle as the price vs km comparison is in most cases a little hard to swallow. And considering the Triton is a 06/07 model and has done only 126k, it makes it harder to spend 74k on a D4 which 50-60,000kms on it, where with a bit of savings and a trade in, we could spend 78k for a car with zero kms on it. And the sweat new car smell.
And again you are right about dealerships and their attitudes. When I brought my ute in 2003, my father was a then employee of GMH and because of his position/tenure was able to get a significant discount on new vehicles. When the document of discount was shown to the salesman, his attitude dropped off to that of a sulky 5 year old and their aftersales was pretty much non-existant. But I have known people to have brought vehicles from the same dealership and had nothing but a fantastic experience.

In my brief return to SA I was a service manager at a AG machinery dealership and first hand got to learn the ways. Every customer was treat the same, but if you were a good to deal with or returning customer, that little bit extra was achievable.

Thanks again everyone. I am in Darwin briefly in mid August so I will take the time to pop in and see what they are about.

[Tombie]

We have a few NT members who really enjoyed the New Car Experience...

Purchased from MLR in Melbourne and enjoyed the drive home ;)

[Melbourne Park]

The fuel savings are an issue. I think that compared to a 200 series, the savings in fuel are significant. But the service costs are much more in the Disco. IMO the fuel savings versus the extra service costs will equal out ... but the 200 will likely depreciate less. So ... buy at a good discount, or buy a demo, or a low mileage one, and that way you can remove the heavier depreciation.

I am not sure that the SD has much lower fuel consumption than the TD. IF you think about it, the motor is rarely using its 600 Nm. I think the difference in performance is when the turbo is open - and that will not save fuel. I reckon that on partial throttles, the economy would be much the same. Up hills under power the SD would use more fuel, but would feel more assuring IMO. I guess towing in sand would be much better in the SD, as KW are useful with sand conditions and there is a big kw differential.

I tow an off road quite tall van that weighs around 2,300kg. The economy is phenomenal, but I don't push the vehicle. Because I do not push it, perhaps the TD would provide the same fuel economy (I have an SD).

I've had a 150 Prado Kakadu, and still have a 90 series Prado (bought new in 1997). I get the same fuel economy towing 2,300kg as I do in the Prado not towing anything.

The Disco is a world apart but I expect the new Prado to tow 3,500kg. A GXL would be a cheaper buy, and their steering is uncertain, which means, not good. The air in the Disco means you don't need to buy a new suspension, and you do in a Prado. Because of the need to put in a new suspension in a Prado, only buy a GX or a GXL, the KDSS vehicles are troublesome to improve.

Towers all say the 200 series uses much the same amount of fuel as a Prado, when towing a 2 tonne or so van. Hence the Disco is a world in front in towing economy with a reasonable sized van.

One thing about the Disco - these models are likely the end of this series - a new one is coming. It may have an alloy monocoque body, and weigh 400 kg less than today's steel chassis equipped Discos. To me, I like today's design for towing. I don't trust alloy underneath for towing, let alone a brand new model. The alloy based vehicle may weigh 20% less, but if towing a 2,500kg trailer, the weight saving is 8%, and less than 5% if towing 3,500kg. So for towing, the benefits of steel are still there. But its something to be considered.

[DiscoMick]

My BIL is quite disappointd in his Triton and is about to get rid of it, so I understand what you mean.
The D4 is a good choice and excellent for towing. It's a class up on a Prado.
As for the Prado, I'd take a Pajero every time.

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[Melbourne Park]

We have a few NT members who really enjoyed the New Car Experience...

Purchased from MLR in Melbourne and enjoyed the drive home ;)

And also try Brighton Land Rover. The salesmen for Discos is ex MLR, and straight. As an MLR buyer, I'd recommend Brighton Land Rover.

[Konradical]

You bring up a interesting point regarding servicing. Out of interest, what is a ball park figure for a standard service.

I have no problems in handing it to a dealership for a service, as previously done under warranty conditions, but I do all the servicing on what we have now, including obd diagnostics.

Would be nice to know what it is worth and whether or not there are people out there that service them personally, obviously out of warranty.

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[letherm]

You bring up a interesting point regarding servicing. Out of interest, what is a ball park figure for a standard service.



My services so far :

6 month health check which included an oil change at my request, oil, oil filter and drain plug was $563.56

12 month full service which included oil, filter and plug plus the Odour and Particle filter was $820.04.

18 month oil change only which included oil, filter and plug was $331.40.

FYI before GST prices for parts (in order 6, 12, 18 months) were.

Oil: $186.38, $169.00, $169.00.
Filter: $30.50, $30.50, $31.42.
Drain Plug: $9.95, $9,95, $10.85.
Odour Filter: $118.77.
Labour: $280.00, $350.00, $75.00.

Martin

[Konradical]

So, a update on what I did over the Christmas period.

When visiting my partners family in Newcastle over Christmas, we took the opportunity to test drive some cars.

On the list were the disco 4, Prado, Pajero and MU-X. We didn't get to the Isuzu, my partners mind was already made up by the time she stepped out of the Pajero.

The Toyota salesman was willing to throw a Prado VX at us for 78k. Then we would have to get it to Katherine plus Rego. It wasn't to bad and rode better than GXL's I had driven in the past. It did feel jittery on 50km/h back streets in Newcastle CBD and even though they sold it as a improvement, engine and road noise didn't seem any different to me. It had a ton of gadgets, but the woodgrain "look", leather " accented" seats and the gear selector turned me off. I also hated the side steps. My partner found the back seat in the middle uncomfortable (when she has to sit there on long trips to settle the kids) and leg room wasn't that great. She found the set up of the third row easy being electric, but the space behind the third row was small and because of the door set up, couldn't stick stuff in the space without it falling. That was the other thing, the door. Was pretty big and didn't lock to hold position unless fully open. Then she had to reach over the bumper and towbar to get into the back, not easy when the bumper was around her waist.

The Pajero.. I didnt even want to test it, but thought I'd give my partner a good cross section of a 7 seated. The third row seating was basically a joke. It would have been ok for maybe up to a ten year old, but then the question of a booster seat in the third row is asked. The interior was pretty poor. Again it had plenty of gadgets, but fake woodgrain, fake leather, basically the same engine from the triton we already have and lots of road/engine noise were huge turn offs. My partner didn't even bother to try the back seat. The biggest turn off for me was the fact we stood in the dealership for 10mins before anyone greeted us. Then after having to listen to a 21 year old salesman tell me that the 3t (or 3.5t, stopped listening) towing capacity was one of the many reasons the Pajero was better than the Prado and then incorrectly explain how that was possible. Then once the testing was over the head salesman, from behind a desk not even engaging us as to what we wanted/needed, dropped the price on the Exceed (6 in stock) 10k to 59k on road.. As good as that price was, I would have maybe though 40k was more appropriate. Then we had to get it to Katherine and get Rego.

We actually test drove the Discovery first, to set the bar, but on reflection I now know that was a mistake. Why a mistake? Because it would have been refreshing to test last, especially after the other two. We drove a SE as that was what I was looking at and have been researching for a while. I was just happy with the whole package, probably because I'm biased. The level of gadgets isn't as great as the other two but they are just that, gadgets. The one we tested had the 20" black pack and tech pack. My partner loved the back seat and the third row. She also liked that we could drop the suspension so she could reach in the back better. And it actually had leather seats..

So after we deliberated for a day or two and endoured a couple of pressing phones calls from Toyota, we choose to see what our chances of getting into a Disco were. I rang Darwin Land Rover and I didn't get a call back, even after two further calls and a message to the manager. So I rang Hunter Land Rover where we went to test the Disco only to find the salesman was on leave. But we struck luck and the HPMG general manager decided to help us. I was specifically chasing a SE with 19" wheels and maybe electric rear diff. Oh and not white. They had a Kaikura Stone TDV6 which I would have settled for as it was a colour we both liked, but it sold the day we went back in. They had a Corris Grey SE coming in which other than the diff, was what I wanted, but then my partner found the memory seat buttons on the HSE. So we ended up with two prices, SE and HSE, both Corris Grey, a spec sheet and 24hrs to decide and put pen to paper.

So in summary, in a week or so, we take delivery of a Corris Grey Discovery 4 HSE SDV6 with Windsor leather, 20" style 516 wheels, grand black finisher, reverse traffic detection, a factory "snorkel" and an additional 2 years warranty. They also gave us a 3.99% interest rate, free servicing for three years and took the free on roads deal off as a additional discount as we are going to Rego it here in Katherine. Oh and the price included delivery to Katherine. All because of the memory seat buttons..

I'm sorry to have written war and peace, but I was pretty excited to share my experience. I would like to thank you all for your input and advice.

Can't wait to share some pics!

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[Narangga]

I'll keep an eye out next time I'm driving through Katherine - not for the vehicle but your Permagrim. :D:D:D

Enjoy!

[Meken]

You will love it - gotta love those memory seats & the 20inchers !

[Stuart02]

Ya lucky bugger - and I mean for having a wife with good taste!

Will you get the raised air intake sealed? Thinking about rubber yet? The fun's just starting :)

Enjoy being the king!

[Konradical]

I think the taste is all mine, she just didn't want to have to adjust the seat after I had been driving!

Tyres? I might wait until later in the year to start looking into that. We won't do many kays so by November il have a better understanding of how they wear and what they perform like. I do like the idea of the GOE 18" wheels, but the money can be spent in more convenient places.

What I plan/want to do is as follows:

Must do;
-tint windows
-Mitch Hitch
-dual battery
-underbody armour
-mud flaps
-brake controller
-CB

Want to do;
-roof rack with access ladder(front runner)
-auxiliary fuel tank
-rear draws which I can secure with turnbuckles and remove to use 3rd row
-probably a thousand things more, but can't think.

I'd like to maybe fit a winch, I like the look of the factory winch set up, but a bull bar would be handy for when we move back east. I really aren't keen on the designs and how much they hang at the front of what I have been able to find that will fit. Thus the under armour. Wallabies just fold and go under and if I hit a cow, no bull bar in the world will help.

Kon


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[rar110]

My BIL had a similar experience. I'm pretty sure he drove the D4 first, which he said made the others feel like a noisy truck.

[Stuart02]

I think the taste is all mine, she just didn't want to have to adjust the seat after I had been driving!

Tyres? I might wait until later in the year to start looking into that. We won't do many kays so by November il have a better understanding of how they wear and what they perform like. I do like the idea of the GOE 18" wheels, but the money can be spent in more convenient places.

What I plan/want to do is as follows:

Must do;
-tint windows
-Mitch Hitch
-dual battery
-underbody armour
-mud flaps
-brake controller
-CB

Want to do;
-roof rack with access ladder(front runner)
-auxiliary fuel tank
-rear draws which I can secure with turnbuckles and remove to use 3rd row
-probably a thousand things more, but can't think.

I'd like to maybe fit a winch, I like the look of the factory winch set up, but a bull bar would be handy for when we move back east. I really aren't keen on the designs and how much they hang at the front of what I have been able to find that will fit. Thus the under armour. Wallabies just fold and go under and if I hit a cow, no bull bar in the world will help.

Kon


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Cargo barrier, llams... we can help with the list! Cos you clearly haven't given it much thought ;)

If you search for discrete winch mounts you'll find some options - Duckworth for example

[l00kin4]

and if you're thinking about the Compomotives this is what Anthracite Grey look like on Corris Grey! :)
Davidhttp://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103955&stc=1&d=1452122988

[Konradical]

Thanks for all your input on this subject guys.

So at the beginning of Feb we received our new Disco and have been getting used to the cool little things they dont tell you about when you have a look at them.

The kids love it, they can see out of the windows and it is so quiet, even with a bit of noise the RAI causes around the drivers window. I actually surprised at how smooth it is on the 20" wheels, especially on the Darwin road. In the two trips we have done to Darwin I instantly felt the difference in handling on that road at 130. Doesnt wallow around corners or fidget, just glideds with confidence. Then there is that power. When we test drove one in Newcastle, I think I was being really careful because I dont remember the punch. It fells like when I drove my ute for the first time.. That squeeze into the seat that gets you all excited!

The air suspension access mode is getting a workout. So easy to get the kids in and out, the big rear doors also help with that.

To be honest, between myself and my partner, we are suitably satisfied with the purchase. Even if it was a bit more than we initially wanted to spend.

Fuel economy? I know it is only early days, but it is hands down greater than the Triton. A Darwin trip would get 15l/100 in the Triton, first trip in the Disco got 11L/100 @ 130, not at a safer to drive the triton 110. Each tank I can see an improvement. We started off at about 10.5 and are now getting 9.5-9.8 in the local commute. I can only see that getting better as it wears in. Keep in mind, the daily temps have been ranging from 36-42 pretty much every day since new years.

As to my list.. I have updated it as per below:

Must do;
-tint windows
-Mitch Hitch *ordered and in the post*
-dual battery
-underbody armour
-mud flaps
-brake controller *Fitted*
-CB

Want to do;
-roof rack with access ladder(front runner)
-auxiliary fuel tank
-rear draws which I can secure with turnbuckles and remove to use 3rd row *have obtained a quote on a set of custom draws and should have them in 4 weeks*
-probably a thousand things more, but can't think.

I had a brake controller fitted by the auto elec that I use for work. They were VERY hesitant to do it as it would have been the only Land Rover they have worked on and they generally only deal with Toyotas and Commodores and stuff. I gave them a copy of the fitting instructions and wiring diagram found on here (Thanks Sneigy) and off they went. Initially I wanted the Tow Pro as it looked neat and would have fitted in. I wanted the remote to fit near the light switch like I have seen on another Disco 4. Unfortunately I ended up settling for the standard RedArc remote head controller and it being fitted to the facia panel below the dash board like in the instructions. Im ok with it, just not what I wanted.

Im actually thinking of fitting the CB myself. I would like to fit the GME TX 3540/50, but have been told they have hand piece issues. (Any experience here)

Also I have been chatting to a guy from back home who makes custom draws and have come up with a design that will work for me. Looking forward to seeing them in the flesh when made.

Mitch Hitch (Very Pricey..) and led light module should be here for some late nights before a Easter test tow. Interested to see how the Disco performs. Im sure it will be fantastic!

Here are a couple of pics of the new Disco;

[LandyAndy]

11L/100@130 is very good.
Mine on the home to Perth and return with the cruise on at 110 is returning 9.3 to 9.5 regularly,its a reasonably hilly run up Albany hwy,return trip is usually around 400km.
Keep that grin happening man:):):):):):):)
LOVE MINE:):):):):)
Andrew

[Konradical]

Today I received the Mitch Hitch for the Disco. Just in time for Easter.

So I thought while the children were quiet, Id fit it, to save from being up past midnight on Thursday getting ready to leave Friday morning.

All I can say about the fitment of and the instructions is hmmm...

In all it took me an hour.

I didn't bother with die grinding out the recovery point as other than a couple of welding spits, it was pretty smooth. I pushed the bush in and squished the taper lock into it, never to be removed again.

That was the first 5mins, which involved reversing the car up the driveway, opening the garage, getting the required tools and removing the cover and red plastic wedge.

The next 50mins was spent getting that damn bolt in!

With a lot of wire stretching and my partner holding the plug out of the way while I used multigrips to jiggle the bolt in, it eventually went in.

Then the bottom bolts and tightening up (couldn't torque the main centre bolt, no access) took a fraction more than 5mins.

Then while I moved the car i tested out reverse and the reverse sensors didn't care that it was there.

Now I was hoping that I could remove it easily so it wouldn't be attached all of the time and only fit it when towing the van, as I think it detracts from the car slightly and I can use the factory hitch for my trailer. Looks as if I will be fitting a 12 pin plug which would enable me to do this. And provided I don't remove the bush(secure it with bolt and washers) there shouldn't be many reasons why I can't remove it when not in use.

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[LRD414]

Now I was hoping that I could remove it easily so it wouldn't be attached all of the time and only fit it when towing the van
Kon, have a look at the last post in this thread:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/213040-mitch-hitch-9.html
What I found was that with the white plug wiring loom fully loosened you could get the plug out far enough to have easy access to the main Mitch Hitch bolt.
You don't have to actually remove it completely as I did but you do have to release all the clips that hold the white plug 12S wiring loom to the black plug 12N loom.
This will give you enough slack to pull the white plug right out of the way.
One of the clips is above the chassis member and very difficult to get hands on to.


.... couldn't torque the main centre bolt, no access ....
Don't forget to torque the centre bolt. And to also re-torque all bolts after first major towing job.

Another issue to consider is that Mitchell Brothers advise replacement of the bolts if the hitch is removed. I don't know if the bolts are torqued to their limit.

I've decided that I quite like having it on full-time anyway.
It certainly helped on this day .....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/272.jpg

That is a hitch shaped imprint on the black bumper and yes it is another D4.
This happened in start-stop crawling traffic when the inattentive driver behind me kept rolling. The hitch protected me from any damage.

Regards,
Scott

[Konradical]

LRD414:

That looks pretty messy for the person who hit you!!

I will clarify what I meant by didnt tension up; I did unclip the loom so I could move the plug out of the way, but it did require a fair stretch still. Even with the extra space, i could not get my 1/2" torque wrench and socket in there. What I did though is work out approximately how much force i needed to push down on a double ended ring spanner to get close to that torque. So thats almost 13kg on a meter from the centre of the bolt, and worked out with my spanner is about 35kg, or sitting on it..

I will however be keeping a proper eye on it over the course of the first trip, tools are already in the back and when we get home I will convert the two 7 pin plugs into one 12 pin. I like simple!

I am not sure about single use torques on those bolts. They just look like regular 8.8 grade M16's. I wouldnt imagine that they would stretch at only 127Nm. On my Rangie I removed the towbar to clean up under the back and replaced all the bolts with 10.9 grade equivalents. 10.9's would be excessive but would be better suited for multiple torque applications. What I would change every time is the Nyloc nuts.. Cant trust those suckers.

The other thing I am going to do is purchase another cover plate, trim it to suit the hitch, just to neaten it up a bit.

That thread you referred to LRD414 was a good read. One of the things I noticed before tightening up was that it pointed to the left side. I just had my partner hold it straight with a piece of pipe in the receiver while I did the bolts up. But still good to know its normal.

What I didnt mention last night was that fitting the hitch has made the top ten list of frustrating things I have done as a mechanic. Number one being equaliser bushes!

I cant wait for this weekend now!

[Konradical]

First trip down and heck am I impressed. Even though I hadnt received the LED module in time, I just quickly made up a adapter plug to see me through the weekend.

I think I could tell that the car wasnt in "tow mode" or what ever it is, as the car was a bit slow to react when it was required to downshift for hills and sometimes felt a tad bouncy in the rear over bumps. But other than that it towed surprisingly well.

We managed a 12.8L/100 for the main road driving bits sitting at 104, which blows the Triton out of the water by 2-3/100, and considering the Triton alone is a lighter vehicle shows how important that extra torque is. Driving around Litchfield pulled it down to 12.2L/100, clearly because its a 80 limit.

We are going to do a overnight trip to mataranka in the coming weekends, so with the LED module fitted, it will be interesting to see how she goes knowing the car "knows" the van is there.

The Mitch Hitch needed a few tightens over the course of the trip, mostly the centre bolt, but the bush is probably still seating and I might remove the paint from the area where the bolt/nut sit, to ensure no loss of torque. I did have a concern though, the bottom two bolts appear to be bottoming out on the vehicle frame and dont seem to be sitting square in the hole. Will investigate further as trips go on.

Something I will be doing is either get a hitch with a larger drop, or putting shackle extensions in the camper, because the van sat much higher than expected at the front.

So my list as of this week;

Must do;
-tint windows
-Mitch Hitch *Complete a fitted*
-dual battery
-underbody armour
-mud flaps
-brake controller *Fitted*
-CB

Want to do;
-roof rack with access ladder(front runner)
-auxiliary fuel tank
-rear draws which I can secure with turnbuckles and remove to use 3rd row *have started being built and if the planets align right, should have them in 4 weeks*
-probably a thousand things more, but can't think.


I was hoping to get a couple more bits of info from you guys as well.

First; can someone recommend a good set of towing mirrors. We currently have the magnetic type and im afraid the arm is going to destroy the window rubber.

Secondly; We use a Treg hitch, what are the steps people use to connect/disconnect. Connection was easy as I just lined everything up in access mode, but when it came to disconnect, i was having a bunch of drama as the rear suspension was either dropping or lifting as the weight was changing, before I had a chance to get back into the car.

Thanks again guys. Honestly your help has got me a lot further than if I was to wing it. Its good to know the little things.

[GlennS]

Brunsgaard towing mirrors

[LRD414]

We use a Treg hitch, what are the steps people use to connect/disconnect. Connection was easy as I just lined everything up in access mode, but when it came to disconnect, i was having a bunch of drama as the rear suspension was either dropping or lifting as the weight was changing, before I had a chance to get back into the car.
When you are ready for disconnect (jockey wheel down), select a height change with a door open.
This will impede the height change from occurring, waiting for door closure.
You should then be able to drive away from trailer or move the drawbar sideways to separate the halves.
See also this thread: http:///d3-d4-rrs/136911-disabling-auto-height-air-suspension.html (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/136911-disabling-auto-height-air-suspension.html)

It's easier with couplings that only require vertical connect/disconnect movement such as the DO35.
This thread is mainly about couplings but also has a few hitch/unhitch tips:
http:///d3-d4-rrs/228383-trailer-couplings.html (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/228383-trailer-couplings.html)

Cheers,
Scott