Which battery charger - dual batteries

[Ashes]

The D3 is doing lots of short trips instead of longer ones and the battery seems to be getting sluggish at start up on these cold mornings. I also have a sc40 Traxide isolator connected to a yellow top optima battery which I'll upgrade one day so I can connect a rear Anderson plug..anyways I need to look at maintenance charging the car every week or so.

Any recommendations for a particular charger that will charge both batteries? I'm Happy to charge via the rear trailer plug or directly to the main or aux battery. Any recommendations also on what is the better/easier point to charge from?

[Tombie]

Projecta, Ctek etc. etc...

[AndyG]

The smaller ctek have a handy loom you can permanently attach and plug the charger into as needed

[JamesH]

ALso the UK Disco site sells adapters so you a plug the CTEK into the 12s pin at the back (white cap in the towbar area) so you can charge without leaving the bonnet up or car unlocked. You can even lock the charger in the car for security.

[Tombie]

ALso the UK Disco site sells adapters so you a plug the CTEK into the 12s pin at the back (white cap in the towbar area) so you can charge without leaving the bonnet up or car unlocked. You can even lock the charger in the car for security.

eBay sells the plug for $5.00 and you can just fit the wiring yourself :cool:

[eddomak]

Any recommendations for a particular charger that will charge both batteries? I'm Happy to charge via the rear trailer plug or directly to the main or aux battery. Any recommendations also on what is the better/easier point to charge from?

I have a single battery only and really like my CTek charger. As for charging point (front or rear) I guess the question can come down to which is easier to access. For me it is easier to flip the bonnet than to undo the rear flap. (Also it is more obvious to others who might otherwise drive off with the charger still attached :o ). With the CTek it comes with a quick connect plug that you can attach so you don't even need to open the battery box.

[jonesy63]

Ashes - one thing which hasn't been mentioned in previous replies... you just charge the main battery or the aux battery - the Traxide controller will connect the two once the voltage hits a certain mark.

I've been happy with my Ctek MXS10 charging via white tow socket.

[scarry]

Ashes - one thing which hasn't been mentioned in previous replies... you just charge the main battery or the aux battery - the Traxide controller will connect the two once the voltage hits a certain mark.

I've been happy with my Ctek MXS10 charging via white tow socket.

You MUST charge the main battery.

If the traxide relay is off,that is batteries are separated,charging the auxiliary battery will not also charge the main battery,as the relay senses the main battery voltage.

I use a C Teck on the main battery every few weeks or so,charges both batteries.I have the SC 80 D4 traxide setup.

[Ben_Vapid]

I'm in the same boat, lots of short trips at the moment.

Do you need to disconnect anything? I assume not but I read that jumping the D4 needs to be done a certain way to not cook the ECU's.

[Tombie]

I'm in the same boat, lots of short trips at the moment.

Do you need to disconnect anything? I assume not but I read that jumping the D4 needs to be done a certain way to not cook the ECU's.

When charging: Pos to Batt Pos, Neg to Earth Stud (NOT neg on battery).

Jump starts, similar deal, Pos to Batt Pos, Neg to Engine bracket / Earth Post.


So far for me genuine battery for 4 years, no charger used and no problems. (Touch wood)
Run a traxide USI160 and Triple Battery set up.
Average daily run (week days) - 4km.... :D
Only on weekends does it get a run.

[Mungus]

I find it strange that my MY14 Owners Handbook states on P207 that when connecting jump leads, connect the positive to the battery and the negative to a suitable earth point at least 0.5m from the battery (not the negative terminal as we all should know), but the very next section regarding 'connecting a starting aid' (starting aid or slave battery) it states connect the positive to the positive battery terminal and the negative to the ground terminal (negative terminal) of the battery?
Is this a typo or am I reading it incorrectly?
Mind you on P208 it also states to disconnect and remove the battery from the vehicle for charging purposes?


The Ctek MXS10 looks the goods, with an Ingress Protection rating of IP65 and supplied standard with the permanent connection lead.

[AndyG]

What is the reason for not using the negative post. I understand it is to avoid a spark near volatile gases, is this correct?

[drivesafe]

What is the reason for not using the negative post. I understand it is to avoid a spark near volatile gases, is this correct?

YES

[Graeme]

The same reason for connecting the positive first and disconnecting the negative first - to keep sparks away from the battery area.

[Mungus]

What is the reason for not using the negative post. I understand it is to avoid a spark near volatile gases, is this correct?



Apart from volatile gases, battery and fuel brake lines, does it also have something to do with the damage to the Battery Monitoring System which is inline with the negative post connection?


An extract from a Topix service message - 'When charging a battery (both primary and secondary) with a BMS (battery monitoring system) fitted, the earth from the charger must be connected to a suitable chassis or engine earth (check Topix for appropriate location). This allows the BMS to see the current going into the battery. However when using a diagnostic charger from Midtronics such as GR1, GRX GR8(110 volts)this connection process can cause an incorrect battery analysis due to the extra resistance in the wiring when connected to a chassis or engine earth.

[SimmAus]

Apart from volatile gases, battery and fuel brake lines, does it also have something to do with the damage to the Battery Monitoring System which is inline with the negative post connection? An extract from a Topix service message - 'When charging a battery (both primary and secondary) with a BMS (battery monitoring system) fitted, the earth from the charger must be connected to a suitable chassis or engine earth (check Topix for appropriate location). This allows the BMS to see the current going into the battery. However when using a diagnostic charger from Midtronics such as GR1, GRX GR8(110 volts)this connection process can cause an incorrect battery analysis due to the extra resistance in the wiring when connected to a chassis or engine earth.

I also recall reading something like this here before...the BMS can have a fit due to some electrickery thing...

[Ashes]

Thanks guys. Repo have the 5amp ctek charger for $99 in their catalogue at the moment so I'll see if I can get one of those.

[Melbourne Park]

YES

So, having a Traxide setup, is it best to charge the main battery via a white plug adapter, and while doing so, disconnect the 2nd battery (in my case a yellow top); then charge the yellow top with still isolated?

Cheers

[scarry]

I leave mine connected,no issue at all,but this is for top up.

If they were both flat,i would do one then the other as the charger probably would not have the capacity to do the two at once.

[RHS58]

I have a Traxide DBS and charge the aux battery through the Anderson plug at the rear. Allows me th charge and still lock the vehicle.
As long as the batteries aren't isolated, both batteries are being charged together, as I understand things.
Same thing I reckon if you charge the main battery, if not isolated from aux then both will charge.

[austastar]

Hi,
On a recent trip my starter battery was losing charge when stopped for a few hours and wouldn't restart the motor.
Disconnecting the Anderson plug from the Traxide SC80 stopped any further discharge of the vehicle battery after stopping, and sometimes this was sufficient to start next morning.
If not, connecting the charger to the vehicle battery in this configuration gave a charge to the starter battery, and once started, connecting the Anderson plug recharged the house battery.

After this experience I intend to wire in an external Anderson plug to the starter battery, and have a convenient switch in the earth wire of the SC80 to force isolation for max charge to the starter battery.

Back to the question "which charger?". Get a smart chargef, about 1/10th the Amp hours of your house battery. That is the one you may be charging from 240V the most.
Cheers

[Melbourne Park]

I have a Traxide DBS and charge the aux battery through the Anderson plug at the rear. Allows me th charge and still lock the vehicle.
As long as the batteries aren't isolated, both batteries are being charged together, as I understand things.
Same thing I reckon if you charge the main battery, if not isolated from aux then both will charge.

I have a C-Tek which cost about $300 odd a few years ago. Its got various cycles, and hence I am cautious about charging a battery that is connected to another. Also while I understand my vehicle starter battery is an AGM, with probably a larger output for starting, its a different battery in characteristics to the I think smaller capacity yellow top 55AH battery.

The yellow actually is more like 66 AH, due to the way Optima rate their capacities. But the yellow top also charges very quickly. Hence it cannot be treated the same as the main starter battery, which I think is while an AGM, behaves very differently in charge acceptance. While linked batteries equalize to some extent, their characteristics for charging would be very different due to different types, capacities, usage and charging characteristics. IMO at least.

[scarry]

I have a C-Tek which cost about $300 odd a few years ago. Its got various cycles, and hence I am cautious about charging a battery that is connected to another. Also while I understand my vehicle starter battery is an AGM, with probably a larger output for starting, its a different battery in characteristics to the I think smaller capacity yellow top 55AH battery.

The yellow actually is more like 66 AH, due to the way Optima rate their capacities. But the yellow top also charges very quickly. Hence it cannot be treated the same as the main starter battery, which I think is while an AGM, behaves very differently in charge acceptance. While linked batteries equalize to some extent, their characteristics for charging would be very different due to different types, capacities, usage and charging characteristics. IMO at least.

Very good point.i have always wondered about that.Mine are always charged together,both AGM,no issues so far.

Over to Tim.:)

[Saitch]

[QUOTE=Melbourne Park;2393161] the main starter battery, which I think is while an AGM, behaves very differently in charge acceptance. QUOTE]
I have the impression that having an AGM in the engine compartment is not good for the battery as they're not heat tolerant!
Steve

[drivesafe]

Hi folks, only when charging different types of batteries, and/or batteries at different states of charge, by an alternator, will each battery charge at its now optimum charge rate.

This is the biggest advantage of using an alternator to charge any form of lead acid battery.

When charging mixed forms of lead acid batteries by a battery charger, DC/DC device or by solar, all the batteries will charge at the same voltage level of charge over the entire charge cycle. No one battery will charge faster than another.

But unlike when using an alternator to charge different forms of batteries, when using any of the devices above, you must first determine which battery in the mix, has the lowest maximum voltage tolerance, and then you need to set the charging device so that it does not exceed that voltage during charging.

But note, even when the charge voltage is set to a lower level, all the batteries will still be charged.

Hi Steve and some vehicles will destroy Standby type AGMs but automotive grade AGMs, like Optimas, will tolerate any environmental situation a standard cranking battery will tolerate. Horse for courses!

[Melbourne Park]

So DriveSafe I guess what you are saying is that if you want to charge two batteries linked by your device, its best to isolate one and charge them individually?

[drivesafe]

So DriveSafe I guess what you are saying is that if you want to charge two batteries linked by your device, its best to isolate one and charge them individually?

No, I have just posted that there is no reason to have to separate different types of lead acid batteries when charging, no matter what type of charger you are using.

[gandalf]

While on the topic of Batteries, does anybody know which other batteries will fit in the aux location on a D3 with terminal locations that would match the Traxide system?

[rufusking]

After this experience I intend to wire in an external Anderson plug to the starter battery, and have a convenient switch in the earth wire of the SC80 to force isolation for max charge to the starter battery.



Here's one I prepared earlier. Cut the DBS feed and on the starting battery side installed a Anderson SB50 plus a ground cable to the earth studs then a Anderson PP75 to feed the isolator.
As for the On/Auto switch for the isolator just wired a switch on the brown earth wire.
Way too much time on my hands.

[PTCAAR]

Hi Guys,
I have a Baintech 3 stage charger (P/N; PB-360P-12) mounted in my campertrailer and to save buying another charger was wondering if I could use it to charge my batteries in the Disco3? I have a Traxide SC80 system and do a lot of short trips so would like to keep the batteries topped up.
Any thoughts/suggestions would be very appreciated.
Thanks.
Peter