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AnD3rew
20th July 2015, 08:38 AM
Dear all

Have just purchased a custom bottle jack from Cremorne Prestige at Artarmon in Sydney.

It is a hydraulic bottle Jack which is low enough to get in under and will raise high enough to get the wheel off the ground. It has a custom top added to it to fit the disco jacking hole. All nicely finished. $195.

It does sort of fit where the old Jack went but is a tight squeeze specially if you have traxide wiring going through there as well.

Drizzle
20th July 2015, 08:39 AM
Pictures please [emoji6]

AnD3rew
20th July 2015, 08:43 AM
Will see what I can do but may not get to it for a few days.

Greg at Cremorne has about 6 in stock, but will take orders for more.

disco gazza
20th July 2015, 09:07 AM
Wonder if it will fit an early L322 ?

Bring on the pics please.

cheers

AnD3rew
20th July 2015, 12:16 PM
Managed to slip out quickly and snap a shot

AnD3rew
20th July 2015, 12:35 PM
Sorry don't know why they came out sideways.

wbowner
20th July 2015, 12:51 PM
Hi
I replied to another thread about these jacks I believe

They are the omega bts2000 jacks

I bought one from blackwoods for $125 but it does not have the bit at the top


Richard

AnD3rew
20th July 2015, 12:54 PM
The bit at the top is the custom bit. Makes it much safer to use and you can use the approved jacking points.

wbowner
20th July 2015, 01:05 PM
The bit at the top is the custom bit. Makes it much safer to use and you can use the approved jacking points.


Andrew
Agree it is good option and I would have gone that way if I had found him.

If we can get someone to make the custom bit only I would be interested as well.

Omega also had a bts4000 which may have been better but they no longer make them. I chased these down awhile ago but did not find the bloke you got yours from

My previous post re these was at

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/180334-d3-jack-replacement-solution-sorts-3.html

Richard

Graeme
20th July 2015, 04:19 PM
Does the custom top screw onto where the original top was or does it simply sit on top of the original?

AnD3rew
20th July 2015, 04:25 PM
Does the custom top screw onto where the original top was or does it simply sit on top of the original?

I should have known you guys would ask a lot of questions. I don't know the answer. It was on when I got it and I haven't tried to play with it I just stuck it in the truck and walked away.

Unfortunately I won't get back to the truck for a couple of weeks now so I won't be able to answer your question. It has been resprayed though you can see the overspray on the label in the picture. so my assumption is that it is permanently welded on.

scarry
20th July 2015, 07:57 PM
That looks the goods.

You would think an $80K upwards vehicle,designed for off road use would come with something like that.

You would have to ask yourself what were they thinking?

Graeme
20th July 2015, 08:27 PM
I suspect that if the top simply sat on the original one then you would have discovered that aspect, therefore I assume it is retained by some means.

AnD3rew
20th July 2015, 08:36 PM
I suspect that if the top simply sat on the original one then you would have discovered that aspect, therefore I assume it is retained by some means.

I certainly turned it upside down when I was trying to figure out how to fit it into the jack compartment, you can grab the top and wind it up into the jacking hole in the chassis as well, so if it comes off you would need to work at it, it doesn't just sit on top.

AnD3rew
20th July 2015, 08:37 PM
That looks the goods.

You would think an $80K upwards vehicle,designed for off road use would come with something like that.

You would have to ask yourself what were they thinking?

Indeed.

jon3950
21st July 2015, 02:00 PM
Picked one up this afternoon.

The top is welded to the screw. I must admit I'm not really keen on this but its probably fine. Its a decent looking weld. The custom top looks pretty robust and the pin is a nice sloppy fit in the chassis rail so should cope with the rotation as the jack raises. Might glue a rubber donut around the base of the pin where it sits on the chassis.

I'll need to sort out a jacking plate now as the base is fairly small. I'm thinking it might be a good idea to sit it on a piece of hardish rubber as well so it has a bit of give to help with the rotation.

Looks like a good thing though. Nice and light and certainly better than my previous solution.

Cheers,
Jon

Graeme
21st July 2015, 05:56 PM
I suspect that being welded would mean that the seals can't be replaced or does the screw section unscrew totally?

AnD3rew
21st July 2015, 06:25 PM
Picked one up this afternoon.

The top is welded to the screw. I must admit I'm not really keen on this but its probably fine. Its a decent looking weld. The custom top looks pretty robust and the pin is a nice sloppy fit in the chassis rail so should cope with the rotation as the jack raises. Might glue a rubber donut around the base of the pin where it sits on the chassis.

I'll need to sort out a jacking plate now as the base is fairly small. I'm thinking it might be a good idea to sit it on a piece of hardish rubber as well so it has a bit of give to help with the rotation.

Looks like a good thing though. Nice and light and certainly better than my previous solution.

Cheers,
Jon

I went on a Land Rover training day a few years ago and the woman who ran it recommended using a good quality thick plastic kitchen chopping board. The bonus is that it doubles as a chopping board or fish filleting board:). We had ocassion to use it on the day and it worked well.

jon3950
21st July 2015, 08:46 PM
I suspect that being welded would mean that the seals can't be replaced or does the screw section unscrew totally?

You may have a point Graeme. Had a quick play with it this afternoon and the screw section didn't seem to want to come out. Will have a better look at it When I get the chance.

Hopefully this one will be used as infrequently as the last one so the seals won't be a problem.

There's probably a bit of room for tweaking the design a bit, but overall I'm happy with it. I feel a lot more comfortable using this than anything else I've had so far and its a hell of a lot lighter than my last jack.

Cheers,
Jon

kiwirich
7th August 2015, 10:48 AM
Thanks Andrew,
Well found, although I've only had to use the jack once on the side of the road, this is a vastly better option.
Now I've just got to work out the locating foam ...
Richard

AnD3rew
7th August 2015, 08:58 PM
You are welcome. I certainly feel much better knowing I have a jack which is actually capable of safely and reliably raising the vehicle.

LandyAndy
14th August 2015, 05:20 PM
Im guessing the original cap on the jack was screwed on????
If so I will look into getting the Blackwoods version.I will get my boy to make a cap on his lathe,no reason he couldnt tap it to suit.
Andrew

Boggs
24th August 2015, 01:30 PM
Searched amazon.. $50 inc shipping to Oz from US
You will see this advertised on Amazon by a number of sellers inc. one called Kev's.. don't.. when you go thru the process it rejects Oz shipping.. so use this link to the seller which is the Amazon international shipping.. I think it comes from same seller except Amazon assists with the shipping. Amazon.com: Omega 10025B Black Hydraulic Bottle Jack - 2 Ton Capacity: Automotive (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_144039094573810&key=0f96a38a5a863735e17251f4eccd9b82&libId=idpfhsr401000bgy000DAg9u2mvf9&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aulro.com%2Fafvb%2Feditpost.p hp%3Fdo%3Dupdatepost%26p%3D2410965&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2FB 00207FO7U%3Fpsc%3D1%26redirect%3Dtrue%26ref_%3Doh_ aui_detailpage_o00_s00&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aulro.com%2Fafvb%2Feditpost.p hp%3Fdo%3Dupdatepost%26p%3D2410965&title=Australian%20Land%20Rover%20Owners%20-%20Edit%20Post&txt=Amazon.com%3A%20Omega%2010025B%20Black%20Hydra ulic%20Bottle%20Jack%20-%202%20Ton%20Capacity%3A%20Automotive)

TuffRR
24th August 2015, 02:37 PM
Andrew
Agree it is good option and I would have gone that way if I had found him.

If we can get someone to make the custom bit only I would be interested as well.





Having now bought one from Amazon (thanks Boggs), I too would be interested in finding out some more details of the custom bit, or buying this separately.

wbowner
24th August 2015, 02:49 PM
Are these jacks big enough

The 2t omega jack I have is a telescope one

Model number bts2000

Rich

Boggs
24th August 2015, 04:45 PM
This is a bottle jack.. yep.. telescopic as all bottle jacks are.. the model numbers confusing.. BTS2000 seems to be the model no. in Blackwoods.. anyway I range the Oz distributor and he confirmed BTS200 and 10025B are the same thing.

Bowyang
24th August 2015, 06:48 PM
Could a Discovery Series 2 jack with a custom made top be used ?

scarry
24th August 2015, 07:12 PM
Could a Discovery Series 2 jack with a custom made top be used ?

Probably won't go low enough.

What about a holden jack,probably have to modify the top though.

The old screw type that was very common.

wbowner
25th August 2015, 12:20 AM
Here is a pic of the bst2000
The site referenced distinguishes between telescopic and Inline bottle jacks
This one is a 2 stage jack

TELESCOPIC HYDRAULIC BOTTLE JACKS (http://www.shinnfu.com.au/_mgxroot/page_10843.html)


Check specs and see if the same. Not that matters if you are happy with it and it does the job

Richard

LandyAndy
25th August 2015, 06:51 PM
Heads up.
The current Kinchrome cattledog(fathers day sale,ENDS THIS SUNDAY) has a 10tonne squat hydraulic jack for $109.95.Min height is 190mm which is what we are chasing I believe.
Can anybody confirm if this jack is "squat" enough for the D4,I have one on hold awaiting confirmation.Dealer says you wont buy a shorter hydraulic jack.
See your local Kinchrome dealer.
I MAY be able to trick my boy into making a replacement head on his lathe to suit the factory jack points.He isnt home often,will see if he wants to make a batch whilst making me one as a group buy.
Andrew

LRD414
25th August 2015, 07:01 PM
Andrew I think it should be good for min height. BSM measured/calculated a min of 230mm available height in an earlier thread. It's actually linked from this thread in an earlier post. So 190 sounds perfect.

I wonder how heavy it is with a 10t capacity?

Cheers,
Scott

LandyAndy
25th August 2015, 07:02 PM
PS,in the same cattledog,there is a 6tonne normal style,min height 200mm $79.95.
The 6T weighs 5kg,the 10T 7.5Kg. 6T lifts 405mm.10T lifts only 355mm.
Perhaps the 6T is the go????
Need an answer tonite as the 10T is on hold.the 10T would be handy in the shed to use as a press,not that important as we have plenty of 20T jacks at work that I can borrow.
It gets down to the min height needed.
Thanks
Andrew

LRD414
25th August 2015, 07:04 PM
Andrew, I just posted same time as you. See above. I think 355 fully up is too low. You need 400mm. So the 6t sounds perfect but if a screw is needed to achieve the 400 raised then the minimum with screw out would be very close to not fitting under.

Scott

LandyAndy
25th August 2015, 07:06 PM
405mm ok????
Andrew

LRD414
25th August 2015, 07:11 PM
BSM calculated 230 min and 400 max. But if the 405 requires a screw to be out then that would be added to the min.

Note I haven't checked the 230mm minimum. This may not be at off-road height or something. I think the 6t one sounds like it's worth a try.

Scott

Redback
26th August 2015, 06:28 AM
Could a Discovery Series 2 jack with a custom made top be used ?


Probably won't go low enough.

What about a holden jack,probably have to modify the top though.

The old screw type that was very common.

I have a D2 jack in the D4, works fine.

Baz.

cjc_td5
26th August 2015, 01:58 PM
PS,in the same cattledog,there is a 6tonne normal style,min height 200mm $79.95.
The 6T weighs 5kg,the 10T 7.5Kg. 6T lifts 405mm.10T lifts only 355mm.
Perhaps the 6T is the go????
Need an answer tonite as the 10T is on hold.the 10T would be handy in the shed to use as a press,not that important as we have plenty of 20T jacks at work that I can borrow.
It gets down to the min height needed.
Thanks
Andrew

Hi Andrew.
I dropped into my AutoOne store at lunchtime today. They did not have any of the Kincrome jacks in stock but had a mountain of other brands, down to $40 in price. There were several that indicated they could jack in the correct range (say 215-430mm) but all were only 150mm in stroke length. The extra length is using the screw which is no good when the jack is already under load. Someone needs to check the Kincrome jacks to see what their stoke length is, otherwise we are back to the Blackwoods jack which has a genuine 200mm stroke length.

Cheers,
Chris

scarry
26th August 2015, 04:26 PM
Jacked mine up today in the carport and i needed about 440mm.

If you are not on a flat surface, you may need more,ditto for oversize tyres.

Sure you could put a piece of wood under it to get more height,but then you would have to watch the minimum height of the jack.

BJM
27th August 2015, 10:37 AM
Jacked mine up today in the carport and i needed about 440mm.

If you are not on a flat surface, you may need more,ditto for oversize tyres.

Sure you could put a piece of wood under it to get more height,but then you would have to watch the minimum height of the jack.

Did you happen to check the minimum height?

I see Kincrome does an 8T bottle jack (K12055) that does 225mm-445mm...

RHS58
27th August 2015, 04:04 PM
Did you happen to check the minimum height?

I see Kincrome does an 8T bottle jack (K12055) that does 225mm-445mm...

8T!!
Does it go up any faster?

scarry
27th August 2015, 06:23 PM
Did you happen to check the minimum height?

I see Kincrome does an 8T bottle jack (K12055) that does 225mm-445mm...

No,but minimum height changes,depending what suspension setting you are on if you jack from the chassis rails,as per handbook.

Ok,mine was on normal height,but without a completely flat tyre i wouldn't be able to tell what minimum distance is.And i didn't have a completely flat tyre on hand.

Also depending on what rim size you have,the minimum will change as well.

If the vehicle had a flat tyre,would it raise to off road height,if all the doors are shut?Therefore increasing the minimum.

Maybe someone will have to let the air out of a tyre and play around:D

Confusing?:confused:

Tombie
27th August 2015, 06:30 PM
Already been done on here Someone posted an excel sheet with the data.

LRD414
27th August 2015, 06:39 PM
Already been done on here Someone posted an excel sheet with the data.


Yep linked in the 9th post of this thread too. And linked in Andrew's adapter thread too. [emoji106]🏻

Scott

LandyAndy
27th August 2015, 08:11 PM
Hi Andrew.
I dropped into my AutoOne store at lunchtime today. They did not have any of the Kincrome jacks in stock but had a mountain of other brands, down to $40 in price. There were several that indicated they could jack in the correct range (say 215-430mm) but all were only 150mm in stroke length. The extra length is using the screw which is no good when the jack is already under load. Someone needs to check the Kincrome jacks to see what their stoke length is, otherwise we are back to the Blackwoods jack which has a genuine 200mm stroke length.

Cheers,
Chris

The Kinchrome has a 120mm stroke length,the screw is 80mm.Will be carrying the oem jack and will make a block to suit.If anybody gets stuck,there normally are white posts on the road:wasntme::wasntme::wasntme:
Andrew

LRD414
22nd November 2015, 08:26 PM
I now have an Omega BST2000 combined with LandyAndy's custom adapter.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/group-buy/227235-d3-d4-hydraulic-jack-adapter-5.html
I got the jack from Blackwoods for ~$115
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/00946908/jack-bottle-omega-telescopic-hyd-2t

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/269.jpg

This is now effectively the same as the custom jack AnD3rew sourced to start this thread.
But the LandyAndy adapter is removable, being held on by grub screw instead of welded.

However, the adapter was designed to suit a Kinchrome 6T jack with a slightly smaller top.
So today, I machined the adapter on a mate's lathe so that it fitted over the Omega jack top.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/270.jpg

The recess diameter needed to be increased by approx 1.5mm to suit the Omega, which has a diameter of 32.2mm
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/271.jpg

I'm very happy with this set-up. Thanks to AnD3rew, LandyAndy, BSM and wbowner who've all contributed to this combined unit.

Cheers,
Scott

l00kin4
22nd November 2015, 10:34 PM
I now have an Omega BST2000 combined with LandyAndy's custom adapter.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/group-buy/227235-d3-d4-hydraulic-jack-adapter-5.html
I got the jack from Blackwoods for ~$115

So today, I machined the adapter on a mate's lathe so that it fitted over the Omega jack top.

The recess diameter needed to be increased by approx 1.5mm to suit the Omega, which has a diameter of 32.2mm

I'm very happy with this set-up. Thanks to AnD3rew, LandyAndy, BSM and wbowner who've all contributed to this combined unit.

Cheers,
Scott

I have the same Omega jack from Blackwoods and LandyAndy's adapter too. Now to find a mate with a lathe! :-)

wbowner
22nd November 2015, 10:48 PM
According to the specs for the bts2000 the size of the head is 27.5mm in diameter which should fit the adapter.

The bts4000 has the diameter of 31.5.

I have not tried mine so may be specs are wrong?

Richard


TELESCOPIC HYDRAULIC BOTTLE JACKS (http://www.shinnfu.com.au/_mgxroot/page_10843.html)

letherm
23rd November 2015, 12:05 AM
According to the specs for the bts2000 the size of the head is 27.5mm in diameter which should fit the adapter.

The bts4000 has the diameter of 31.5.

I have not tried mine so may be specs are wrong?

Richard


TELESCOPIC HYDRAULIC BOTTLE JACKS (http://www.shinnfu.com.au/_mgxroot/page_10843.html)

I haven't bought my jack yet as I am waiting for my adapter to arrive and was going to take it into a store to make sure that the jack I buy fits the adapter. I am looking at the Omega 2 tonne as it has a 181 minimum and 418 maximum height which seemed ideal for a D4. Haven't got access to a lathe so can someone confirm the saddle diameter. I saw the same spec as you Richard but Scott's experience has me wondering. If I can't confirm the saddle diameter I'll opt for the same jack as Andy - Kinchrome 6 tonne. I can't find a local store that has the Omega jack in stock so I can't just rock up and try the adapter. Sigh :p

Could the Omega be made with different saddles for different markets perhaps and we are seeing two versions of the same model available in Australia versus from an overseas source?

Martin

RHS58
23rd November 2015, 05:42 AM
I have the same Omega jack from Blackwoods and LandyAndy's adapter too. Now to find a mate with a lathe! :-)

Alternatively, take a grinder to the top of the jack?

wbowner
23rd November 2015, 07:15 AM
I haven't bought my jack yet as I am waiting for my adapter to arrive and was going to take it into a store to make sure that the jack I buy fits the adapter. I am looking at the Omega 2 tonne as it has a 181 minimum and 418 maximum height which seemed ideal for a D4. Haven't got access to a lathe so can someone confirm the saddle diameter. I saw the same spec as you Richard but Scott's experience has me wondering. If I can't confirm the saddle diameter I'll opt for the same jack as Andy - Kinchrome 6 tonne. I can't find a local store that has the Omega jack in stock so I can't just rock up and try the adapter. Sigh :p

Could the Omega be made with different saddles for different markets perhaps and we are seeing two versions of the same model available in Australia versus from an overseas source?

Martin


I have a bts2000 I bought from backwoods.

I tried the adapter today and it does not fit

The specs of the bts2000 saddle size is 27.5mm diameter

I assumed this was the size of the round top which would fit into the adapter. If it is then the specs are wrong as the diameter of the this bit is around 33mm I believe as other have found.

May be it is the diameter.er before the powder coated or something or their specs are just wrong or they refer to a different part of the Jack

The long and short is that as others have stated you will have to lathe the adapter, grind the head of the bts2000 or get another Jack

Bugger!!!!! Am I aloud to say bugger If not I am sorry

Richard

LRD414
23rd November 2015, 08:52 AM
The BST2000 online specification is definitely wrong for the version Blackwoods sells. I guess it's possible there is slightly different versions kicking around.
On mine, up to approx 1mm of the diameter will be paint, so grinding the jack top is quite viable, just not as neat and tidy as the lathe.
The lathe task is very easy, so long as you can get access to a lathe. As you can see, you only require a small benchtop lathe.

I still prefer the Omega because it has a longer stroke than the Kinchrome:
Kinchrome - 120mm stroke + 80mm screw
Omega - 201mm stroke + 60mm screw

Scott
.

TuffRR
23rd November 2015, 12:37 PM
I have a bts2000 I bought from backwoods.

I tried the adapter today and it does not fit

The specs of the bts2000 saddle size is 27.5mm diameter

I assumed this was the size of the round top which would fit into the adapter. If it is then the specs are wrong as the diameter of the this bit is around 33mm I believe as other have found.

May be it is the diameter.er before the powder coated or something or their specs are just wrong or they refer to a different part of the Jack

The long and short is that as others have stated you will have to lathe the adapter, grind the head of the bts2000 or get another Jack

Bugger!!!!! Am I aloud to say bugger If not I am sorry

Richard

Interesting. I bought the one that was on Amazon for $50 which we thought was the same as the local (although different part numbers - this says Omega 10025B). Anyway, the round head on mine is 25mm diameter so fits in the adapter, albeit with a bit of room to spare.

letherm
23rd November 2015, 12:55 PM
So what is the inside diameter of Andy's adapter?

Martin

LRD414
23rd November 2015, 12:57 PM
So what is the inside diameter of Andy's adapter?

Martin
30.5mm ID of adapter.

Cheers,
Scott

LandyAndy
23rd November 2015, 07:01 PM
Interesting. I bought the one that was on Amazon for $50 which we thought was the same as the local (although different part numbers - this says Omega 10025B). Anyway, the round head on mine is 25mm diameter so fits in the adapter, albeit with a bit of room to spare.

If you remove the grub screw you will be able to replace it with a bolt,it will hold the adaptor in place.Knowing Lindsay it will only be metric,looks to be around 6mm;);););)
Andrew

LRD414
23rd November 2015, 07:27 PM
If you remove the grub screw you will be able to replace it with a bolt,it will hold the adaptor in place.Knowing Lindsay it will only be metric,looks to be around 6mm;);););)

Andrew


Yep, M6. I ran an M6 tap through it to clean it out after the lathe.

Scott

TuffRR
23rd November 2015, 07:37 PM
If you remove the grub screw you will be able to replace it with a bolt,it will hold the adaptor in place.Knowing Lindsay it will only be metric,looks to be around 6mm;);););)
Andrew

:thumbsup:

AnD3rew
23rd November 2015, 09:34 PM
I am very impressed with the patience and ingenuity of all you lot, but being lazy I would still just go and buy it from Cremorne like I did:D

letherm
23rd November 2015, 09:41 PM
I am very impressed with the patience and ingenuity of all you lot, but being lazy I would still just go and buy it from Cremorne like I did:D

You started it by bringing it to our attention. :p:p:p

Martin

LRD414
23rd November 2015, 09:52 PM
I am very impressed with the patience and ingenuity of all you lot, but being lazy I would still just go and buy it from Cremorne like I did:D


Where's the fun in that? [emoji51]

wbowner
24th November 2015, 01:31 PM
Just looking at the diameters stated.

According to above the diameter of the bracket is 30.5mm

However Scott has modified his to fit, the figures he has stated are
You need to take out another 1.5mm off the diameter
This makes 32mm based on the quoted size.

But Scott said the size of the head of the bts2000 was 32.2 I suspect Scott did a more accurate measure than the one I did with a tape measure 😁

I know it is not a lot but ya never know or at least I don't.


Sorry if I am being a bit picky but want to be sure before I get it sorted out.



Richard

LRD414
24th November 2015, 02:22 PM
No worries Richard and I agree, best to be accurate.
Sorry, my initial 1.5mm statement was "rounded-off" just to describe the extent of what I did.
So the reasonably accurate figures I measured with vernier calipers are as follows:

LandyAndy Adapter ID = 30.5mm
Omega BST2000 OD = 32.2mm
After lathe machining Adapter ID = 32.3mm

This produced a nice snug fit that allowed the grub screw to do its job.
I suggest having the jack with you to confirm everything fits properly.
Note that the jack OD may not be the most accurately fabricated item and therefore best confirmed directly.
Vernier calipers are the best way to measure ID & OD but a tape measure would be good enough.

Cheers,
Scott

wbowner
24th November 2015, 02:32 PM
Thanks Scott

I asked because I may be able to get my son to do it and he would not have access to the jack to be sure.


Richard

LandyAndy
24th November 2015, 07:43 PM
See the Group buy thread in group buys.
BMKal bought a Supercrapp jack and simply ground the jack head down on a bench grinder to suit the adaptor;);););););)
Andrew

TuffRR
6th March 2016, 08:50 AM
Searched amazon.. $50 inc shipping to Oz from US
You will see this advertised on Amazon by a number of sellers inc. one called Kev's.. don't.. when you go thru the process it rejects Oz shipping.. so use this link to the seller which is the Amazon international shipping.. I think it comes from same seller except Amazon assists with the shipping. Amazon.com: Omega 10025B Black Hydraulic Bottle Jack - 2 Ton Capacity: Automotive (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_144039094573810&key=0f96a38a5a863735e17251f4eccd9b82&libId=idpfhsr401000bgy000DAg9u2mvf9&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aulro.com%2Fafvb%2Feditpost.p hp%3Fdo%3Dupdatepost%26p%3D2410965&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2FB 00207FO7U%3Fpsc%3D1%26redirect%3Dtrue%26ref_%3Doh_ aui_detailpage_o00_s00&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aulro.com%2Fafvb%2Feditpost.p hp%3Fdo%3Dupdatepost%26p%3D2410965&title=Australian%20Land%20Rover%20Owners%20-%20Edit%20Post&txt=Amazon.com%3A%20Omega%2010025B%20Black%20Hydra ulic%20Bottle%20Jack%20-%202%20Ton%20Capacity%3A%20Automotive)


Just a heads up for anyone else thinking of getting one of these.... They do not go high enough to lift a wheel off the ground (if using chassis point).
Back to square one.
At least i discovered this at home rather than in the middle of the bush!

p38arover
6th March 2016, 10:23 AM
I've not looked yet, but is there any reason that one can't jack the car under the suspension arms as we always used to do?

disco gazza
6th March 2016, 10:36 AM
I bought the Omega jack and am getting a plate made up by a mate that will fit over the top. This will then have a lump of wood on top of that so that I can use the suspension arms instead of the body to lift my L322.

I used to use my old D1 jack on it but the jack needs a refurb, so I bought the Omega jack as a replacement.

cheers

Oztourer
6th March 2016, 09:07 PM
See the Group buy thread in group buys.
BMKal bought a Supercrapp jack and simply ground the jack head down on a bench grinder to suit the adaptor;);););););)
Andrew

Hi Andrew
Do you have any of the adapters left? If not will you be getting another batch made anytime soon?

LandyAndy
6th March 2016, 09:20 PM
I dont have any.
I saw Lindsay a few weeks ago,he wasnt too keen just yet.
I will bug him again once he has settled back into uni.
I already have you on my waiting list.
Andrew

letherm
7th March 2016, 12:49 AM
Just a heads up for anyone else thinking of getting one of these.... They do not go high enough to lift a wheel off the ground (if using chassis point).
Back to square one.
At least i discovered this at home rather than in the middle of the bush!

I think this may have popped up before but I think there is a difference between jack specs between Australian and overseas sites on some of the omega range with the same lift weight. I haven't got around to it but will buy a 2 tonne omega jack because it does raise the LR high enough. Previous threads went into a lot of detail about what was needed. The link below is to an Australian site that sells the one I intend to buy. The specs show its min and max heights which are, from what has been previously discussed on this forum, enough for the LR.

It will need "massaging" to fit Andy's adapter that I've already bought.

https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/00946908/jack-bottle-omega-telescopic-hyd-2t

Martin

SBD4
7th March 2016, 08:40 AM
I've not looked yet, but is there any reason that one can't jack the car under the suspension arms as we always used to do?
You can Ron, most seem reluctant to do this. For me it is far easier, faster and safer to do it this way. To get the rear wheel off the ground using the standard way takes forever and is really unsafe as the height & angles involved put put dangerous (sideways) pressures on the jack. Even using the crappy LR jack under the control arm is safer as it does not have to be extended very far to lift the tyre off the ground. The LR jack is at its weakest when it is fully extended.

Nicky
7th March 2016, 09:13 AM
You can Ron, most seem reluctant to do this. For me it is far easier, faster and safer to do it this way. To get the rear wheel off the ground using the standard way takes forever and is really unsafe as the height & angles involved put put dangerous (sideways) pressures on the jack. Even using the crappy LR jack under the control arm is safer as it does not have to be extended very far to lift the tyre off the ground. The LR jack is at its weakest when it is fully extended.

Makes sense, could you please describe this with drawings or photos. Thanks in advance.

p38arover
7th March 2016, 11:48 AM
You can Ron, most seem reluctant to do this. For me it is far easier, faster and safer to do it this way. To get the rear wheel off the ground using the standard way takes forever and is really unsafe as the height & angles involved put put dangerous (sideways) pressures on the jack.

My thoughts exactly!

I rarely, if ever, used the bumper lift jack on my Hillman Hunter. I used a screw jack under the springs or suspension arms. A side lift with a scissor jack would be even worse especially with the suspension droop on a Land Rover!

LRD414
7th March 2016, 03:19 PM
I think this may have popped up before but I think there is a difference between jack specs between Australian and overseas sites on some of the omega range with the same lift weight. I haven't got around to it but will buy a 2 tonne omega jack because it does raise the LR high enough.

I have the Omega BST2000 from Blackwoods and the LandyAndy adapter.
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/00946908/jack-bottle-omega-telescopic-hyd-2t
It is a very close thing to actually being able to lift the wheel off the ground but it needs to be at its absolute maximum.
So I've decided it's better to use some wooden spacers as you see here, where it's just on the point of lifting off the ground:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/734.jpg
Note that the LandyAndy adapter works very well, providing excellent engagement to the chassis.
Other jacks with less extension may need more wood.

For comparison, below is what it looks like with just the steel jacking plate in place and this was not quite off the ground yet.
You can make out the lean described earlier by Sean.
I think there was a small amount of lift still available to push it to its limit but it didn't look safe.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/669.jpg


Here is the same jack being used on the suspension arm.
The reduction in extension is obvious, with the wheel already off the ground in this photo.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/484.jpg

The jack head without the adapter is a pretty good fit into the cavity on the suspension arm, which provides a reasonably stable jacking platform.
The adapter comes off easily by undoing the grub screw.

In my view the suspension arm option is the better approach, so will be doing in that way whenever possible.
But it's good to have the adapter as well and therefore the option to use the chassis should the suspension arm be not viable for some reason.

And finally I read on Disco3 that if you place the jack to the suspension arm (as per photo above) at offroad height and then lower it to access height, the wheel will be lifted off the ground for you.
However, I found that the car sensed this as a grounding and raised to extended height, coming off the jack completely.
Perhaps I needed to quickly turn the car off or something but regardless I prefer the jacking-with-car-turned-off approach anyway.

Regards,
Scott

SBD4
7th March 2016, 08:16 PM
Thanks Scott, you saved me the trouble of posting a pic and explaining.:) There is a nice vid on youtube somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.

The only thing I would say about using the dimple on the control arm as the jacking point is, when the tyre is flat there is not much clearance between the ground and the arm. So, either you need a very squat jack (LR scissor jack) to fit in there or, you need to raise the car a bit using the chassis jacking point to allow a taller jack to fit under the control arm. I had to do the latter and it was a bit of a pain in the bum.

LRD414
7th March 2016, 10:07 PM
.... when the tyre is flat there is not much clearance between the ground and the arm. So, either you need a very squat jack (LR scissor jack) to fit in there or, you need to raise the car a bit using the chassis jacking point to allow a taller jack to fit under the control arm....

What about lifting to Offroad height to fit the jack? Not enough?

RHS58
8th March 2016, 01:02 PM
What about lifting to Offroad height to fit the jack? Not enough?

Or just drive the flat on to a block of wood to give a couple more inches elevation.

rocket rod
18th August 2016, 02:16 PM
I recently returned from an off road trip with a number of tyre problems on other D4s and was staggered to find out that the std car jack does lift the wheel off the ground. A prerequisite I would have thought! I'm now in the market for a suitable jack (and adaptor) and it seems by consensus that the Omega and adaptor is the way to go. I'm sure the Omega jack can be purchased but what about the adaptor? Andy are they still available?

letherm
18th August 2016, 02:40 PM
I recently returned from an off road trip with a number of tyre problems on other D4s and was staggered to find out that the std car jack does lift the wheel off the ground. A prerequisite I would have thought! I'm now in the market for a suitable jack (and adaptor) and it seems by consensus that the Omega and adaptor is the way to go. I'm sure the Omega jack can be purchased but what about the adaptor? Andy are they still available?

I bought my jack from Blackwoods who have branches in WA too.

Here's a link to the page of the one I bought which I bought after reading previous threads here.

https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/00946908/jack-bottle-omega-telescopic-hyd-2t

Andy's adapter will not quite fit this jack so you will need to adjust the adapter or the top of the jack to suit. Both have been done successfully by forum members. I've been slack and haven't done it yet but intend to grind a bit off the jack top as I don't have access to the equipment needed to expand the internal diameter of the adapter.

Martin

Jcrowe69
24th August 2016, 08:38 PM
I just had my first flat tyre on my D4 today, luckily it was in my driveway and I had all my tools at home, I have never had to deal with such a crap jack/wheel brace factory tool set up, and murphy's being what it is, it was ****ing rain in Sydney today...so after sitting in the rain, reading the manual to figure out how to get the spare out, I just chucked all the jack crap in a pile and then went into the shed and using my 8t hydraulic jack and some slabs of timber I thought, imagine if my wife had to change a flat on the side of the road or if we were away camping, I have only had the D4 about 3 months and haven't bothered looking at the jack etc yet. The factory issue stuff is totally inappropriate, I guess most owners will call the NRMA but I seriously doubt it has enough lift to get a flat off the ground on a dirt track. The acme thread on the jack and the handle are simply atrocious. Thanks for the links as I'm buying something else before we go away. (or I will need to pinch my jack and wheel brace from my 1955 86' series 1... (Not approved as holiday transport by the family btw..)
Cheers Jason

laughto
25th August 2016, 06:07 AM
The factory issue stuff is totally inappropriate, I guess most owners will call NRMA

Exactly what my wife did. I would assume LR Assist would also be an option, although is probably NRMA anyway.

letherm
25th August 2016, 11:53 AM
Exactly what my wife did. I would assume LR Assist would also be an option, although is probably NRMA anyway.

I had a flat and rang LR assist - bad back :( That said, if I was away from an urban area I would probably do it myself to save time and just put up with the consequences

The guy wasn't from NRMA. Can't remember the name on the side of his car but it wasn't specifically LR assist.

Martin

Tombie
25th August 2016, 06:04 PM
This is the consequences of the factory jack.. (when it buckles and drops the vehicle onto the rim)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/289.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/290.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/291.jpg

Chops
25th August 2016, 08:25 PM
Resurrecting this older thread. ;)
What was the final outcome of the "Jack" situation?


Hmmm, not sure how that worked,, I was missing quite a few posts,,,

Tombie
25th August 2016, 08:26 PM
I purchased a 2 stage from Blackwoods and carry that...

It took 2 trolley Jacks, a Digger and his minion and the Defender jack to sort mine out.

letherm
25th August 2016, 09:59 PM
Resurrecting this older thread. ;)
What was the final outcome of the "Jack" situation?


Hmmm, not sure how that worked,, I was missing quite a few posts,,,

For completeness, here's the other thread.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/180334-d3-jack-replacement-solution-sorts.html


Martin

Russrobe
27th August 2016, 12:11 PM
This one looks like it should work then.. Although it may end up being 10mm too high i'm thinking i'll keep the LR scissor in the car too in case i need to get it started with that... $125



https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/00946551/jack-bottle-omega-in-line-hyd-10t

LRD414
27th August 2016, 12:26 PM
This one looks like it should work then.. Although it may end up being 10mm too high i'm thinking i'll keep the LR scissor in the car too in case i need to get it started with that... $125
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/00946551/jack-bottle-omega-in-line-hyd-10t
That one is pretty huge Russ and the 2t version actually has better extension anyway.
Refer earlier in this thread ..... 2t version:
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/00946908/jack-bottle-omega-telescopic-hyd-2t

Comparison:
Capacity (kg) 2000 > 10000
Height Max (mm) 418 > 473
Height Min (mm) 181 > 240
Stroke (mm) 201 > 153
Mass (kg) 5.7 > 8.1

Cheers,
Scott

Russrobe
27th August 2016, 12:28 PM
That one is pretty huge Russ and the 2t version actually has better extension anyway.
Refer earlier in this thread ..... 2t version:
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/00946908/jack-bottle-omega-telescopic-hyd-2t

Comparison:
Capacity (kg) 2000 > 10000
Height Max (mm) 418 > 473
Height Min (mm) 181 > 240
Stroke (mm) 201 > 153
Mass (kg) 5.7 > 8.1

Cheers,
Scott
Ah crap i already ordered. Will try swap. Thanks Scott

Garfield
28th August 2016, 06:34 PM
I'm slowly getting my D4 ready for an outback trip - hopefully next year. A few people have told me they have moved away from high lift jacks, as there heavy and dangerous - with most turning to exhaust jacks.


Question is, can you use an exhaust jack for a simple wheel change ( say flat tyre ) on a bitumen or dirt road ? Are they relatively easy to use ?


Any comments or feedback on exhaust jacks and their limitations appreciated !

~Rich~
28th August 2016, 06:54 PM
I carry 3 jacks on all my trips!
Factory one.

A Mercedes Sprinter hydraulic jack which is located ( jacked in) under the front edge of my drawer unit so it's easy to get to anytime.

An exhaust jack which is packed under my drawer unit.

I also carry a 300 x 300 x 18mm ply jacking plate.

I prefer using the hydraulic jack but have used the exhaust jack in the Simpson.
It's a bit fiddy getting it to jack straight up without it wanting to spear out either way. You also need to carry an exhaust bung for the other exhaust pipe you are not using. ( Plumber fitting available at Plumbers Supplies)

So order of preference is:
1 - Hydraulic
2 - Exhaust
3 - Factory ( last resort only)

Russrobe
11th September 2016, 05:49 PM
My jack attempt failed. Was hoping to be able to go off the chassis. Anybody keen to modify my attachment to fit the hole in the arms instead?https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/679.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/680.jpg

Tried lowering the body onto the jack going from offroad to access and opening the door but this was the result.

Russrobe
11th September 2016, 06:05 PM
My jack attempt failed. Was hoping to be able to go off the chassis. Anybody keen to modify my attachment to fit the hole in the arms instead?https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/679.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/680.jpg

Tried lowering the body onto the jack going from offroad to access and opening the door but this was the result.
Sent cremorne an email to see if they can modify one.

LandyAndy
11th September 2016, 06:30 PM
I called into Rovertech yesterday,they had what looked to be a mini 2.5t trolley jack in a carry case,I think it was $130+GST,the card on it said a must for D3/D4/RRS owners.
Andrew

LRD414
11th September 2016, 08:14 PM
My jack attempt failed. Was hoping to be able to go off the chassis. Anybody keen to modify my attachment to fit the hole in the arms instead?
Not quite sure what's happening for you Russ.
Did you start at offroad height when jacking from chassis rail?

I found the Omega jack would only just lift the wheel off the ground when starting from offroad height.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/669.jpg
Offroad height is the key point here.

This was improved by using a jacking plate and wooden block but it's still a lot of extension on the jack.

There's far less extension required when jacking from the suspension arm but that is still jacking upwards.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/484.jpg

For either method starting at offroad height helps, although less important if using the suspension arm.

Anyway, I'm not sure why you lowered the vehicle on to the jack? When using the suspension arm, the self levelling function kicks in with small corrections as you jack and eventually this gives you the ground clearance required.

You mention modification of the head but it looks like the standard round head in your photos?

Cheers,
Scott

Russrobe
11th September 2016, 08:33 PM
Ah true, for some reason, after trying to jack up at offroad height it ended up on far too great and angle(the jack itself) so i thought i could reduce it by lowering the extended end and lowering the suspension onto the jack, opening the door before it went into extend mode and jacking up.

I reckon i was pretty close to getting the wheel off the ground. If i can get a 10mm plate underneath i'll hopefully be there..

Ohh for the head i meant mine is the standard one and i should get mine modified....

By too much of an angle i mean there was a 3-5mm gap between the jacking side of the base plate and the ground.

LRD414
11th September 2016, 08:46 PM
Ah true, for some reason, after trying to jack up at offroad height it ended up on far too great and angle(the jack itself) so i thought i could reduce it by lowering the extended end and lowering the suspension onto the jack, opening the door before it went into extend mode and jacking up.

I reckon i was pretty close to getting the wheel off the ground. If i can get a 10mm plate underneath i'll hopefully be there..

Ohh for the head i meant mine is the standard one and i should get mine modified....

By too much of an angle i mean there was a 3-5mm gap between the jacking side of the base plate and the ground.

Ok now I understand but I don't reckon that will work (as you found out).

I agree, the angle is a concern. It can be seen in my photo too.
You have to try and "pick" a position that will counteract the inclination as you get to full extension.
This is the main reason I prefer the suspension arm.

The standard jack head will fit into the suspension arm recess quite well but doesn't have a pin to engage into the chassis rail.
This is what the adapter Andrew's son fabricated for a few of us achieves.

So if you intend to use the suspension arm you won't need a modified head.

Hope that makes sense.

Scott

Russrobe
11th September 2016, 08:53 PM
Ahhh i see, i started jacking it from under the suspension arm on a third attempt but stopped after looking at how much of the head is actually touching steel... Only about half of it... Thought you had somehow modified it to fit that recess better. Hmm.

Tombie
12th September 2016, 09:15 AM
If using the arm...

Set off-road height.
Place jack in position
Go into vehicle and select a lower height
Vehicle will lower and lift the wheel off the ground..

rar110
12th September 2016, 09:25 AM
Is the idea to place the jack as close to wheel as possible, so at one end of the arm?

Chops
12th September 2016, 09:27 AM
I called into Rovertech yesterday,they had what looked to be a mini 2.5t trolley jack in a carry case,I think it was $130+GST,the card on it said a must for D3/D4/RRS owners.
Andrew

Gday Andy, are you able to get some more info on this at all. Pics/tech info would be handy.

I can't believe that LR doesn't have this properly sorted.

RHS58
12th September 2016, 02:33 PM
If using the arm...

Set off-road height.
Place jack in position
Go into vehicle and select a lower height
Vehicle will lower and lift the wheel off the ground..

Still enough clearance under the wheel arch to get the wheel off and out?

Tombie
12th September 2016, 02:34 PM
Still enough clearance under the wheel arch to get the wheel off and out?



Certainly is. Once it comes off the spigot it comes out easily..

RHS58
12th September 2016, 02:36 PM
Certainly is. Once it comes off the spigot it comes out easily..

That's a neat trick then.

LandyAndy
12th September 2016, 07:58 PM
Gday Andy, are you able to get some more info on this at all. Pics/tech info would be handy.

I can't believe that LR doesn't have this properly sorted.

When I drop my D4 into Southerns,I will see if I can remember to call in and see Kevin again,will see what I can do.I want one too,stone cold broke after 2 weeks holidaying,Mr K Roo didn't help adding $550 to the holiday bill:(:(:(
Andrew

LandyAndy
12th September 2016, 08:05 PM
If using the arm...

Set off-road height.
Place jack in position
Go into vehicle and select a lower height
Vehicle will lower and lift the wheel off the ground..

BFG,a couple of warnings need to be added here.Land Rover do not advise jacking from an arm,yes it works.
If you do this via the chassis rail it will give you more lift,emegency height.Try it the dash will guide you thru it;););)
Handy if you have no electronics or rods to lift to maximum off road clearance for a short time;);););););)
ENJOY
Andrew

Tombie
12th September 2016, 11:40 PM
Think you're confused Andy. My version doesn't raise the vehicle [emoji6]

Tombie
13th September 2016, 10:16 AM
Andy. Part of the LR warning should be to never use their plasticine scissor jack [emoji6]

Babs
13th September 2016, 07:00 PM
So there is so many different versions of these jacks, different part numbers different measurements, different heads, I'm going back and forth between pages and it's driving me crazy.

Which is the right one to get, that fits under and lifts the vehicle enough to get a tyre off, the one that ✅ all the boxes❓
And where is the best place to get it from in Sydney ❓ or wether online is better option ❓

Cheers :)

Cheers, Babs :D Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

Russrobe
13th September 2016, 08:47 PM
Apparently a 2t 2 stage hydraulic from blackwoods but i got the 10t because it has an even higher lift and it still won't lift off the chassis without jacking timbers.

Babs
13th September 2016, 08:53 PM
Apparently a 2t 2 stage hydraulic from blackwoods but i got the 10t because it has an even higher lift and it still won't lift off the chassis without jacking timbers.

Russ, so where does that leave us ❓

Does that mean the two tonne doesn't reach either ❓

Cheers, Babs :D Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

Russrobe
13th September 2016, 09:03 PM
Russ, so where does that leave us ❓

Does that mean the two tonne doesn't reach either ❓

Cheers, Babs :D Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
I'm going to try exchange it for a two stage one Babs. Think that's where i went wrong. Go to page two .....

rocket rod
13th September 2016, 10:24 PM
I called into Rovertech yesterday,they had what looked to be a mini 2.5t trolley jack in a carry case,I think it was $130+GST,the card on it said a must for D3/D4/RRS owners.
Andrew

Andy, I bought one of those jacks from Kevin recently and lifted up the wheel with it underneath the suspension arm no problems. I have not yet tried it with a flat tyre but the height of the round jacking point is 140mm above ground level. I was on trip with Gordon German recently and the lads used the factory scissor jack to lift the car a bit and then a small trolley jack (a similar one to what I have) to go the rest of the way.

Russrobe
13th September 2016, 10:45 PM
Andy, I bought one of those jacks from Kevin recently and lifted up the wheel with it underneath the suspension arm no problems. I have not yet tried it with a flat tyre but the height of the round jacking point is 140mm above ground level. I was on trip with Gordon German recently and the lads used the factory scissor jack to lift the car a bit and then a small trolley jack (a similar one to what I have) to go the rest of the way.
Trolley jacks are always my favorite. Just didn't think id find one compact enough. That one looks good.

LRD414
14th September 2016, 08:04 AM
Trolley jacks are always my favorite. Just didn't think id find one compact enough. That one looks good.

But just remember not to circumgyrate your handle when using it :p :p
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l319-discovery-3-4/113885d1473772873-new-jack-option-20160913_210752.jpg

Cheers,
Scott

LRD414
14th September 2016, 08:25 AM
Note the maximum lift is 400mm for the trolley jack shown.
This is slightly less than the bottle jacks mentioned in this thread.

My summary:

All of these jacks will be capable to lift a wheel using the suspension arm but they will struggle when using the chassis rail, unless a jacking plate and/or wooden block is used as well.

The 2t jack from Blackwoods (Omega branded) can get a wheel off the ground from the chassis rail using just a steel plate under.
However, it is a close run thing, with the jack at its maximum extension and on a lean.

There has been mention of two other bottle jacks that have more extension in the various threads:
- Mercedes Sprinter
- D2

These can be a bit more difficult to source and I don't know how much extra extension is they have.

Cheers,
Scott

Tombie
14th September 2016, 08:58 AM
D2 jack isn't sufficient.
Sprinter jack is taller closed so a PITA when it's down.

dirvine
14th September 2016, 10:14 AM
I am now totally confused. Being new to the Discovery, all I want is a jack that works. It seems to me the OEM is not stable, so I do not want to use it as the 1st option but rather as a back up. I cannot understand why a bottle jack on the arm is unsafe or unstable, and it seems to me when looking there, that it is the logical place to put a jack which will quickly raise the wheel off the ground. As a back up I guess you could also attach the OEM for added security. If thats the case, then it would appear to me that we dont need jacks that have to raise in excess of 410mm or be lower than 185mm. Am I on the right track? If so then all I want to purchase is a jack that will fit under the arm with a flat tyre. How would one go about this and what jack would be suitable to do this sort of "operation"

Tombie
14th September 2016, 10:16 AM
Let's just say. With a flat tyre you have little to no chance of getting a jack under the arm once that corner hits the deck...

A small lift enerpac type ram would fit (hockey puck type) but then wouldn't give sufficient lift to get a fully inflated tyre on..

rar110
14th September 2016, 11:02 AM
I am now totally confused. Being new to the Discovery, all I want is a jack that works. It seems to me the OEM is not stable, so I do not want to use it as the 1st option but rather as a back up. I cannot understand why a bottle jack on the arm is unsafe or unstable, and it seems to me when looking there, that it is the logical place to put a jack which will quickly raise the wheel off the ground. As a back up I guess you could also attach the OEM for added security. If thats the case, then it would appear to me that we dont need jacks that have to raise in excess of 410mm or be lower than 185mm. Am I on the right track? If so then all I want to purchase is a jack that will fit under the arm with a flat tyre. How would one go about this and what jack would be suitable to do this sort of "operation"

I had a look under the RRV last night, which would be similar to a D3/4. My D1 bottle jack would have worked under a suspension arm. If it's a bit tall I could probably dig a small hole for the jack in most situations or drive a step further up on a wood jacking plate. The front suspension arms have a high point and the jack has a wide u shaped top so shouldn't slip off the arm. The rear is not as ideal but ok for the jack I think.

I am in the process of getting a Sprinter jack which has a similar top. I will cut some channel to put on top so I can use it on the sill jacking point, which is different to a D3/4. The sprinter jack will give me the height needed for a sill jack.

LRD414
14th September 2016, 11:47 AM
I cannot understand why a bottle jack on the arm is unsafe or unstable, and it seems to me when looking there, that it is the logical place to put a jack which will quickly raise the wheel off the ground.
Not sure where anyone has said the suspension arm was unsafe or unstable? :confused:

I (and others) have stated that a 2t bottle jack is at its maximum extension when using the chassis rail.
It is obviously nowhere near its maximum when using the suspension arm.

Cheers,
Scott

RHS58
14th September 2016, 12:22 PM
Let's just say. With a flat tyre you have little to no chance of getting a jack under the arm once that corner hits the deck...

A small lift enerpac type ram would fit (hockey puck type) but then wouldn't give sufficient lift to get a fully inflated tyre on..

I carry a couple of blocks and drive the flat up on to a block to give a bit more space to get a jack under there.

rocket rod
14th September 2016, 04:51 PM
Dirvine I know your pain of which way to turn on this issue given that there a lot of choices out there and none of them work at all well. It really does need to be put back onto the manufacturer for a fix. I'm thinking that for future design they could you the air suspension in reverse so you can lift the car up, put a support or jack underneath, lower car on support, then lift the wheel up. All done with a few button pushes on the dash.

BTW to get a trolley jack underneath the suspension arm without another jack you could always drive the flat wheel up onto a rock, jacking plate etc and once you've lifted the car up, chuck the rock away and put the new tyre on.

shanegtr
14th September 2016, 05:25 PM
When I brought my D3 the previous owner had a 12t jack in there. I was planning on using something smaller and lighter, but I think I'll just stick with it :D

Garfield
14th September 2016, 05:33 PM
Maybe this 3 Ton low profile trolley jack is the go Trolley Jack Aluminum Garage Floor Rally Race Alloy NEW Blue LOW Profile CAR 3T | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Trolley-Jack-aluminum-garage-floor-rally-race-alloy-New-Blue-Low-Profile-Car-3T-/112118293242?hash=item1a1ac562fa:g:050AAOSw5ZBWOu8 a) minimum 95mm to 500mm. surely 95mm should fit under the suspension arm and 500mm should be enough to get the wheel off clear off the ground. Only disadvantage is the 24 kg weigh.

Babs
14th September 2016, 06:14 PM
Maybe this 3 Ton low profile trolley jack is the go Trolley Jack Aluminum Garage Floor Rally Race Alloy NEW Blue LOW Profile CAR 3T | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Trolley-Jack-aluminum-garage-floor-rally-race-alloy-New-Blue-Low-Profile-Car-3T-/112118293242?hash=item1a1ac562fa:g:050AAOSw5ZBWOu8 a) minimum 95mm to 500mm. surely 95mm should fit under the suspension arm and 500mm should be enough to get the wheel off clear off the ground. Only disadvantage is the 24 kg weigh.


Ha ha ha :) are you supposed to sacrifice one of the seats to stow that thing or carry it around on the roof rack ❓

Cheers, Babs :D Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

RHS58
14th September 2016, 06:18 PM
Errrrr, seriously.
Don't we all just call Land Rover Assist?

g5k
14th September 2016, 08:19 PM
I speak on behalf of all the newbie D4 owners like myself reading how the supplied jack is useless and then following this thread spiralling deeper and deeper into greater confusion on what would be a good solution. Can someone pleeeeease tell us what to get to lift the behemoth safely to change a tire. TIA :)

LandyAndy
14th September 2016, 08:22 PM
The trolley jack Rovertech have is much smaller than that one just pictured.
I will get more details when I'm up there in the next week or so.
Andrew

Tombie
14th September 2016, 11:47 PM
The trolley jack Rovertech have is much smaller than that one just pictured.
I will get more details when I'm up there in the next week or so.
Andrew



Would still be useless if on a soft surface...

The 2 stage bottle jack works fine - tested mine tonight in the workshop whilst doing lower arm bushes.

Just remember to chock the vehicle so it doesn't move...

BTW, Llams is extra beneficial when a flat is had!!!

Babs
15th September 2016, 01:35 AM
So what is the step by step process using air suspension and Llams with the bottle jack ❓

Cheers, Babs :D Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

Milton477
15th September 2016, 07:21 AM
I speak on behalf of all the newbie D4 owners like myself reading how the supplied jack is useless and then following this thread spiralling deeper and deeper into greater confusion on what would be a good solution. Can someone pleeeeease tell us what to get to lift the behemoth safely to change a tire. TIA :)

Here here! Has anyone actually safely changed a tyre on the side of the road using only the supplied jack?

SBD4
15th September 2016, 08:11 AM
For the confused....IMHO:


Any jack is unsafe to use when extended to the height required to get the tyre off the ground using the chassis rail. Even more so when not on level ground. Jacks are not designed to cope with the sideways stresses this introduces.
Don't jack using the chassis rail
Jack using the control arm - it is faster and safer
when the tyre is flat, there is not much room to fit the jack between the control arm and ground, drive the wheel on to a rock or block to get the clearance to fit the jack in.
The jack head should be placed into the indent pressed in to the control arm. The ideal shape of the head would be convex.
As always make sure the jack is placed perpendicular to the load it is lifting, level the ground or chock it if necessary
any 2T jack would be suitable, the shortest closed height one you can get with a stroke long enough to match the profile of your tyre +50% (so you can fit the new one on)
at a stretch, even the OEM jack could do this job easily and its closed height will allow it to fit under the arm when a tyre is flat.

Note that unlike the chassis rail, the control arm has no hole to positively engage the head of the jack so you need to make sure the jack head is correctly placed in the indent to reduce the chance of slipping.

PS I have done all four corners using the EOM jack on a garage floor, it was hard work, time consuming and nerve-racking.

Garfield
15th September 2016, 12:21 PM
I appreciate the trolley jack is both heavy and large to store within a 4WD but after some experience changing wheels on our farm 4WD's ( LC and Colorado with lift kits) in paddocks and fire trails , I can assure you the trolley jack is by far an easier and more stable jack than a bottle jack - particularly 4WD with lift kits and heavier off road tyres which require a greater lift.


I guess the perfect world is to have a camper trailer and store the trolley jack in there.


p.s. and usually trolley jacks have a larger pad to lift with

BMKal
15th September 2016, 12:51 PM
Has anyone actually safely changed a tyre on the side of the road using only the supplied jack?

Yes - twice now. Once in WA and once in Tasmania (on sloping ground). ;)

Not an ideal situation to be in - but I do not use the OEM jack on the chassis rail. As others have suggested, it is much safer to use this jack under the control arm - the OEM jack fits under easily even with a dead flat tyre, and you do not have to "extend" the jack anywhere near as much in this position to lift the wheel / tyre clear of the ground as you would if lifting the vehicle from the chassis rail.

These days, I always have two jacks in the car. The OEM jack resides in its normal position, plus I have a three tonne and a four tonne bottle jack, both of which will accept the "adaptor" made by LandyAndy's son. One or the other of these jacks sits in the back in the gap alongside my set of drawers.

LRD414
15th September 2016, 01:37 PM
So what is the step by step process using air suspension and Llams with the bottle jack
Sean & Brian have summarised the overall situation well but here's some extra info that may help regarding the use of the air suspension.
This is what I have done, both on the driveway and out in the wilds when jacking the suspension arm.

1. Place bottle jack under suspension arm indent as per Sean's post.
2. Raise vehicle to higher suspension level if required to fit jack under arm.
3. No need for open doors or anything else, just switch vehicle off.
4. Use jack's screw extension to adjust jack head to be touching arm indent.
5. Start extending jack slowly.
6. Vehicle will self-level in small increment.
7. Repeat steps 5 & 6.
8. After a few self-levelling movements (~4-5) the wheel will lift off the ground.
9. Change to spare wheel.
10. Lower jack (and vehicle).

Vehicle will drop all the way down close to bump stops on this corner and the jack may not be removable.
I found that the jack was removable by lowering the jack's screw extension all the way down but for some jacks it may still be too tall.
However, once the vehicle is started the suspension will raise to the correct height immediately and then jack can be removed.

I prefer doing it this way rather than lowering suspension onto the jack because I can keep an eye on things at the jack without worrying about going into the cabin or messing around with doors. Plus the vehicle is switched off for the whole operation once the jack is positioned under the arm.

Regards,
Scott

PS ..... I haven't detailed the usual safety steps required for any jacking operation, including choking wheels etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/484.jpg

Babs
15th September 2016, 06:43 PM
Thanks guys, very informative and now makes sense.

From that info I think I will stick with the OEM Jack.

I always carry my cordless gear, rattle gun, drills etc. I'm thinking this could come in handy when using the OEM Jack. I'll have to test this theory out. :)

Cheers, Babs :D Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

LRD414
15th September 2016, 07:04 PM
I'll have to test this theory out.
This would be my number 1 suggestion, change a couple of wheels in the comfort of your driveway without any time pressures.
It was so much better to have done it all before when I needed to change a flat for real.
All went smoothly, no issues with wheel winder or getting spare off its carrier or using the jack or actually getting a wheel off (hub stuck/frozen to spigot).

Cheers,
Scott

scarry
15th September 2016, 07:19 PM
Here here! Has anyone actually safely changed a tyre on the side of the road using only the supplied jack?

Sort of,used it under the carport,when I first looked at it I knew it was an absolute POS:mad:

Anyway,it did its job,and haven't had to use it since.:)

go-disco4
15th September 2016, 11:40 PM
Here here! Has anyone actually safely changed a tyre on the side of the road using only the supplied jack?

Yes, at least three times without issue.

Once at home, once in the Flinders and once on the Birdsville Track.

Go-disco4

Tombie
16th September 2016, 07:49 AM
Yes, twice. Once in the workshop.
And the second time didn't go so well (jack buckled and failed dropping D4 to ground).

Babs
16th September 2016, 08:24 AM
Yes, twice. Once in the workshop. And the second time didn't go so well (jack buckled and failed dropping D4 to ground).

Ha ha ha :) Tombie was the second time due to user error ❓ :o

Cheers, Babs :D Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

Tombie
16th September 2016, 08:59 AM
Ha ha ha :) Tombie was the second time due to user error [emoji780] :o

Cheers, Babs :D Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner



I wish it was... then I could just shake it off.

Alas, no. The vehicle was on flat ground in the truck stop at Waikerie. Wheels chocked, suspension raised as per the book.

Loosened wheel nuts, placed jack correctly and wound it up.

Vehicle raises off the ground enough to remove the wheel.

Grab both sides of tyre and lifted off the wheel studs..
Then, just as it comes off the studs the screw in the jack bends like a banana and the vehicle collapses down.

I jumped back, and the disc and backing plate crunch into the rim, pinning it between the disc and the ground.

Tombie
16th September 2016, 09:00 AM
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/553.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/554.jpg

Nicky
16th September 2016, 09:43 AM
oh s*** and then how did you recover?

RHS58
16th September 2016, 09:45 AM
It's a suspect POS, and the time I've used mine on a flat driveway seemed quite dodgy - almost at full stretch and at a lean at that point.
Yours failed.
Should be a recall issue.
Dangerous.

BTW, I carry 2 bottle jacks and a few blocks, breaker bar and torque wrench in a box in the back of the D4.

Tombie
16th September 2016, 10:20 AM
oh s*** and then how did you recover?



Luckily Digger lives in the area!

Gave him a call and he came to the rescue with a couple of Trolley Jacks and the bottle jack from Bear...

A bit of fancy dancing between the jacks got it sorted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/551.jpg

cjc_td5
16th September 2016, 10:31 AM
I wish it was... then I could just shake it off.

Alas, no. The vehicle was on flat ground in the truck stop at Waikerie. Wheels chocked, suspension raised as per the book.

Loosened wheel nuts, placed jack correctly and wound it up.

Vehicle raises off the ground enough to remove the wheel.

Grab both sides of tyre and lifted off the wheel studs..
Then, just as it comes off the studs the screw in the jack bends like a banana and the vehicle collapses down.

I jumped back, and the disc and backing plate crunch into the rim, pinning it between the disc and the ground.

Hi Tombie.
Why did the threaded rod bend? It should be under TENSION when the jack is loaded?

Chris

Nicky
16th September 2016, 10:32 AM
Any damage to the vehicle?

Tombie
16th September 2016, 10:54 AM
Had to bend the backing plate back off the disc and the rim suffered some damage (a gouge)

Tombie
16th September 2016, 11:04 AM
Hi Tombie.

Why did the threaded rod bend? It should be under TENSION when the jack is loaded?



Chris



I know. [emoji15]

You can see here the grease still on the thread - that's as far as it was extended...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/550.jpg

There was a light jolt.. that was the hint to get away from the vehicle.

There is no noticeable thread damage I can see.

And then the jack was ejected out from under the rail and down it came.

Everything was done by the book.

Even when lifting it I lowered and reset the jack to get it positioned perfectly.

The parking bay was bitumen and level, front wheels chocked..

It had me a bit puzzled and I still can't explain it.

Fair to say I went out and got a 2 stage bottle jack the next week...

jon3950
16th September 2016, 12:31 PM
Hi Tombie.
Why did the threaded rod bend? It should be under TENSION when the jack is loaded?

Chris

I think its due to the angle of the jack at full height. As you know the vehicle lifts in an arc, not straight up. This puts a sideways load on the jack which must put enough compression load on the screw to buckle it.

Cheers,
Jon

scarry
16th September 2016, 03:13 PM
I don't know how LR get away with it as it is definitely a major safety risk.

I wonder how it would go if the vehicle was fully loaded?

Nicky
16th September 2016, 06:20 PM
I think its due to the angle of the jack at full height. As you know the vehicle lifts in an arc, not straight up. This puts a sideways load on the jack which must put enough compression load on the screw to buckle it.

Cheers,
Jon

If you put the jack at right angle to the chassis, this would not happen.

Tombie
16th September 2016, 10:14 PM
If you put the jack at right angle to the chassis, this would not happen.



Ever tried it?

Nicky
17th September 2016, 10:17 AM
Yes, works OK as the stress is directed on both sides of the chassis rail.

jon3950
17th September 2016, 10:51 AM
It can work OK, but the system is inherently unstable. The higher you go the more unstable it becomes. It doesn't take much to push it over the edge, maybe a little nudge as you're pulling the wheel off, or perhaps if the screw thread isn't quite straight enough making it more susceptible to buckling.

The margin for error is just too low as has been demonstrated on here numerous times. The jack is just not strong enough and to me this is the single biggest problem with an otherwise brilliant vehicle. I've used a couple of different hydraulic bottle jacks over the years and whilst they have been a big improvement over the standard jack I still haven't been happy with the process. In fact it was enough to convince me to get a Defender after having a heart attack while changing a wheel last year.

Basically you have to lift a very heavy vehicle too far off the ground - unless you lift it under the suspension arm.


Cheers,
Jon

jon3950
17th September 2016, 11:11 AM
Actually this is a classic example of Land Rovers Eurocentric thinking. I fear they've lost some of the corporate knowledge about what is required in an off-road vehicle. They see how these vehicles are used in Europe - drive up to your ski chalet in Chamonix or cross a muddy paddock in the Cotswolds to pick up the pheasant you've just shot and if you get a flat tyre you put on your hi-vis vest and call the AA. They've forgotten how the rest of the world works. They don't understand how a vehicle falling off a jack in the middle of the outback can kill you because whenever they go on an expedition they have a back-up crew.

They build the most capable 4wd on the planet and cripple it with a jack that wouldn't lift a ****ing Corolla.

Thank you.

Nicky
17th September 2016, 06:28 PM
Yes, works OK as the stress is directed on both sides of the chassis rail.

Guys, just try this.

Stuart02
17th September 2016, 06:40 PM
Deleted post :/

LandyAndy
17th September 2016, 07:46 PM
See my Rover-Tech jack thread for a good alternative.
Kevin says the first D3 flat he changed did exactly what Tombies did,except he had the wheel off and clear.Just had time to shove a wheel under the vehicle as it toppled so not such the drama Tombies was.
Andrew

rar110
17th September 2016, 08:07 PM
Some pice using my D1 jack on the front suspension arm with tyre full inflated.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/494.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/495.jpg

jon3950
17th September 2016, 09:51 PM
Guys, just try this.

Not quite following you on this.

The stress in the chassis rail is not the problem. As the chassis is lifted higher the top of the jack no longer wants to be directly above the bottom of the jack. This is due to the chassis rail being lifted in an arc around the wheel on the other side.

This problem exists for all jacks. The trouble with the Disco is the height to which you have to lift it - the horizontal movement of the chassis and therefore top of the jack becomes significant.

Something has to give. In some cases the bottom of the jack may move. In most cases the jack will start to lean. This puts a sideways load on the jack which it can't really cope with. This is exacerbated if the locating pin on the top of the jack jams in the hole in the chassis rail putting a significant bending load on the arms of the jack.

Cheers,
Jon

Russrobe
18th September 2016, 10:27 AM
I see why the angle of the suspension arm looked too great when i tried. I had it at off road height. My final solution is just to keep my bottle jack and carry a couple of hard wood timbers to drive onto at all times(as mentioned by others). Although seeing as I broke my collar bone on Tuesday I'll have to hold off on the next dummy run.

Tombie
18th September 2016, 03:55 PM
Some pice using my D1 jack on the front suspension arm with tyre full inflated.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/494.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/495.jpg



That arm is Certainly not a D3/4

wbowner
18th September 2016, 04:52 PM
Being part of the general confused can I ask where on the control arms should you jack from on a d4 with air suspension , front and back

Pics would be great as I am also word challenged

Another question

Would it be possible to say jack from the chassis just enough to get another jack under the control arm.

Or perhaps have a very low profile jack to first jack from the control arm enough to fit another hack under the control arm

Sorry if this goes not make sense

And thanks for any help

Richard

LRD414
18th September 2016, 05:47 PM
Richard, my photo a few posts back is a D4 arm. Front and back are very similar.

And yes a bit of jacking off the chassis can get things high enough to get under the control arm.

Cheers,
Scott

LandyAndy
18th September 2016, 05:58 PM
I see why the angle of the suspension arm looked too great when i tried. I had it at off road height. My final solution is just to keep my bottle jack and carry a couple of hard wood timbers to drive onto at all times(as mentioned by others). Although seeing as I broke my collar bone on Tuesday I'll have to hold off on the next dummy run.

OUCH!!!!
How did you manage that???
Andrew

Russrobe
18th September 2016, 06:08 PM
Just fell over playing footy with the giant bear Andy... Can't believe how easy they break actually...

wbowner
18th September 2016, 06:27 PM
Richard, my photo a few posts back is a D4 arm. Front and back are very similar.

And yes a bit of jacking off the chassis can get things high enough to get under the control arm.

Cheers,
Scott

Thanks Scott

This is a busy thread with a number of options

I like your approach with the pics

I will have to check it out


Thanks again
Richard

rar110
18th September 2016, 07:20 PM
That arm is Certainly not a D3/4



No it's an L322. Is the D3/4 different?

rar110
18th September 2016, 07:28 PM
Richard, my photo a few posts back is a D4 arm. Front and back are very similar.

And yes a bit of jacking off the chassis can get things high enough to get under the control arm.

Cheers,
Scott



Scott was your last photo of the front D4 suspension arm? If so, then yes very different to an L322 front.

Tombie
18th September 2016, 07:31 PM
No it's an L322. Is the D3/4 different?



Very much so...

LRD414
18th September 2016, 07:45 PM
I see Richard's point about lots of posts, so here's the photo again of my D4.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/484.jpg

And here's a couple of "How to" summaries related to it, also from earlier in this thread.

Cheers,
Scott


For the confused....IMHO:


Any jack is unsafe to use when extended to the height required to get the tyre off the ground using the chassis rail. Even more so when not on level ground. Jacks are not designed to cope with the sideways stresses this introduces.
Don't jack using the chassis rail
Jack using the control arm - it is faster and safer
when the tyre is flat, there is not much room to fit the jack between the control arm and ground, drive the wheel on to a rock or block to get the clearance to fit the jack in.
The jack head should be placed into the indent pressed in to the control arm. The ideal shape of the head would be convex.
As always make sure the jack is placed perpendicular to the load it is lifting, level the ground or chock it if necessary
any 2T jack would be suitable, the shortest closed height one you can get with a stroke long enough to match the profile of your tyre +50% (so you can fit the new one on)
at a stretch, even the OEM jack could do this job easily and its closed height will allow it to fit under the arm when a tyre is flat.

Note that unlike the chassis rail, the control arm has no hole to positively engage the head of the jack so you need to make sure the jack head is correctly placed in the indent to reduce the chance of slipping.

PS I have done all four corners using the EOM jack on a garage floor, it was hard work, time consuming and nerve-racking.


Sean & Brian have summarised the overall situation well but here's some extra info that may help regarding the use of the air suspension.
This is what I have done, both on the driveway and out in the wilds when jacking the suspension arm.

1. Place bottle jack under suspension arm indent as per Sean's post.
2. Raise vehicle to higher suspension level if required to fit jack under arm.
3. No need for open doors or anything else, just switch vehicle off.
4. Use jack's screw extension to adjust jack head to be touching arm indent.
5. Start extending jack slowly.
6. Vehicle will self-level in small increment.
7. Repeat steps 5 & 6.
8. After a few self-levelling movements (~4-5) the wheel will lift off the ground.
9. Change to spare wheel.
10. Lower jack (and vehicle).

Vehicle will drop all the way down close to bump stops on this corner and the jack may not be removable.
I found that the jack was removable by lowering the jack's screw extension all the way down but for some jacks it may still be too tall.
However, once the vehicle is started the suspension will raise to the correct height immediately and then jack can be removed.

I prefer doing it this way rather than lowering suspension onto the jack because I can keep an eye on things at the jack without worrying about going into the cabin or messing around with doors.
Plus the vehicle is switched off for the whole operation once the jack is positioned under the arm.

Regards,
Scott

PS ..... I haven't detailed the usual safety steps required for any jacking operation, including choking wheels etc.

wbowner
18th September 2016, 09:43 PM
Thanks again Scott


Richard

g5k
19th September 2016, 07:14 AM
Is there a consensus on which would be preferred access issues aside for either the bottle jack pictured above or the trolley jack flagged a page or so back?

Milton477
10th October 2016, 09:14 PM
After reading all of the advice, I have gone this route. I knocked up the attachment on top of the jack from some bits lying around as I do not have a lathe.

My question now is where do you keep the thing in a vehicle without drawers to prevent it becoming a weapon of mass destruction 'in the unlikely event' of an accident?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

LandyAndy
10th October 2016, 09:22 PM
Bunnings sell tool boxes.Find a small heavy duty plastic one that is just the right size,strap the toolbox down to the luggage tie downs????
Andrew

Russrobe
10th October 2016, 09:35 PM
I left mine in the cardboard box and put it behind the back seats on the floor. Added 3 bits of timber for sand or driving onto to fit jack under.

rocket rod
10th October 2016, 09:57 PM
I found there is huge amount of space underneath the rear seats (2nd row as mine is a 5 seater) or you could cut out some of the foam insert in the boot underneath the floor mat that handles all the jacks and tools. Once again this is for a 5 seater.

LandyAndy
10th October 2016, 10:04 PM
I found there is huge amount of space underneath the rear seats (2nd row as mine is a 5 seater) or you could cut out some of the foam insert in the boot underneath the floor mat that handles all the jacks and tools. Once again this is for a 5 seater.

Yours is special as LRA only imported 7 seaters,a 5 seater is a special order.
There could be room under the rear row,I couldn't know,I ditched the rear chairs not long after I bought it.
Still haven't got around to turning them into bar stools!!!!!
Andrew

Russrobe
10th October 2016, 10:12 PM
Think you're talking about the same space as me. I folded the back seat down and put it down the gap. Just need to make sure it doesn't go under the seat as it won't fold flat of you do.. also put a Snatch strap and tool bag down there.

Oops not same spot nm.

letherm
11th October 2016, 01:14 AM
I found there is huge amount of space underneath the rear seats (2nd row as mine is a 5 seater) or you could cut out some of the foam insert in the boot underneath the floor mat that handles all the jacks and tools. Once again this is for a 5 seater.


I've a 7 seater and used this space for the tow bar hitch. Wrapped it up in an old mattress protector.

Martin

Babs
11th October 2016, 08:01 AM
After reading all of the advice, I have gone this route. I knocked up the attachment on top of the jack from some bits lying around as I do not have a lathe.



My question now is where do you keep the thing in a vehicle without drawers to prevent it becoming a weapon of mass destruction 'in the unlikely event' of an accident?



http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=115127&stc=1&d=1476097693




Would it fit in the engine bay in the spare compartment next to abs or if you don't have a dual battery set up in front of the main battery [emoji780]

The suggestions for under rear seats seems viable. [emoji108]

Milton477
11th October 2016, 09:45 AM
Thanks guys, I'll have a look at the suggested spots to keep the jack.

Tombie
11th October 2016, 10:49 AM
I took a Stanley blade and modified my factory jack location...
Mine lives there...

Tombie
11th October 2016, 10:50 AM
Question though... why the long extension? You won't get it under when flat [emoji6]

Milton477
11th October 2016, 02:38 PM
Truthfully, the piece of SHS was that long when I fished it out of the scrap bin. :p

g5k
19th October 2016, 04:01 PM
Pretty sure this is the same trolley jack that has been appearing except marked as 2t instead of 2.25t. Seems to operate in the same range 135mm-400mm, works out to just under $60 with free delivery.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-2-Ton-Hydraulic-Trolley-Jack-Lifts-2T-2000kg-Low-Profile-Car-SUV-4WD-Jack/32711913960.html

Then also listed on eBay is a very similar looking one, just different colour combo same specs again at $85 or $112 with stands.

2 Ton 2T Hydraulic Trolley Jack Lifts 2000kg Low Profile Car SUV 4WD Carry Case | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252333751064)

with stands
2T Hydraulic Trolley Jack 2000kg + 2X 3 Ton Adjustable Car Jack Stand Heavy Duty | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252465958800)

Stuart02
20th October 2016, 01:15 PM
Please don't all laugh too loud, but has anyone looked at permanently installing something like caravan levelling jacks on each corner, on the chassis rails? Like a version of what's available for motorhomes these days (or what sort of system is it that Dakar rally cars use?), for example

CLASS A & C HYDRAULIC LEVELLING JACKS : RedFoot REMOTE Class C Motorhome Levelling Jacks (http://www.levellingjacks.com.au/index.php/2012-07-04-02-04-22/class-a-and-b-hydraulic-levelling-jacks/redfoot-remote-class-c-motorhome-levelling-jacks-detail)

I figure the total weight couldn't be hugely more than a highlift or trolley jack, particularly if they weren't individually motor-driven... and depending on the size and configuration of the jack there's definitely some space on the rails.

Just a thought...

Tombie
20th October 2016, 01:17 PM
Nice out there thinking...

Unfortunately not enough room for them under there..

Stuart02
20th October 2016, 02:57 PM
Nice out there thinking...

Unfortunately not enough room for them under there..

Time to get a ute perhaps :P

Tombie
20th October 2016, 04:57 PM
Time to get a ute perhaps :P



Not on your life. [emoji41]

The bottle jack does just fine..

rocket rod
20th October 2016, 08:44 PM
The jacking system is already there, it's called air suspension. LR need to modify it such that it can also lift the wheel as well as it's normal function of pushing it down. That way you could lift the car up, put a stand (jack) under it, lower it onto the jack and keep going while it lifts the wheel up. The only issue it would probably cost more than the std jack to modify the EAS!:(

Tombie
20th October 2016, 09:08 PM
It's not there, it's a bellows or effectively a single acting cylinder. To make it a double acting Ram would require extensive changes for very little gain..

However you can use it to change a tyre - I'm working on something in my spare time that may work out..

LRD414
20th October 2016, 09:55 PM
LR need to modify it such that it can also lift the wheel as well as it's normal function of pushing it down.
That is, in effect, what already happens when using the suspension arm to lift. As you jack there are a few self-levelling movements of the suspension and after ~4-5 movements the wheel lifts off the ground.

So the suspension is assisting to lift the wheel and means that the jack lifting task is greatly reduced compared to chassis rail. It really isn't very hard at all.

Scott

Nicky
21st October 2016, 08:37 AM
That is, in effect, what already happens when using the suspension arm to lift. As you jack there are a few self-levelling movements of the suspension and after ~4-5 movements the wheel lifts off the ground.

So the suspension is assisting to lift the wheel and means that the jack lifting task is greatly reduced compared to chassis rail. It really isn't very hard at all.

Scott

Thanks Scott, and the rear wheel? to get that up for changing?

Tombie
21st October 2016, 08:48 AM
Thanks Scott, and the rear wheel? to get that up for changing?



Same.

LRD414
21st October 2016, 08:51 AM
Thanks Scott, and the rear wheel? to get that up for changing?
Same as front. See also page 14 (posts 133-136) of this thread for details.
Cheers,
Scott

Nicky
21st October 2016, 10:28 AM
Same as front. See also page 14 (posts 133-136) of this thread for details.
Cheers,
Scott

Thanks Scott, so this under the front arm will clear the rear wheel for changing?

LRD414
21st October 2016, 10:54 AM
Thanks Scott, so this under the front arm will clear the rear wheel for changing?
No, the process is per corner only.

Stuart02
21st October 2016, 10:56 AM
Has anyone had a look at these?

Roadsafe Automotive Products, Aftermarket Automotive Products, roadsafe suspension (http://roadsafe.com.au/4wd/ram-extensions/)

There's a couple of top-plate options which could be handy depending on what the jacking point is. I'm just not sure whether there's a /small enough/ heavy duty bottle jack to fit under the car with one of their extensions on it...

Tombie
21st October 2016, 11:45 AM
That's why the omega 2 stage is the recommended jack - correct closed and open heights [emoji6]

Garfield
21st October 2016, 05:40 PM
Pretty sure this is the same trolley jack that has been appearing except marked as 2t instead of 2.25t. Seems to operate in the same range 135mm-400mm, works out to just under $60 with free delivery.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-2-Ton-Hydraulic-Trolley-Jack-Lifts-2T-2000kg-Low-Profile-Car-SUV-4WD-Jack/32711913960.html

Then also listed on eBay is a very similar looking one, just different colour combo same specs again at $85 or $112 with stands.

2 Ton 2T Hydraulic Trolley Jack Lifts 2000kg Low Profile Car SUV 4WD Carry Case | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252333751064)

with stands
2T Hydraulic Trolley Jack 2000kg + 2X 3 Ton Adjustable Car Jack Stand Heavy Duty | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252465958800)



I like the idea of this trolley jack as it is compact, has a carry case and only weighs 10kg in the case. How much does the Omega 2 ton jack weigh ? How much weight are you saving with the bottle jack ?

LRD414
21st October 2016, 06:23 PM
IHow much does the Omega 2 ton jack weigh ?
---
EDIT: wrong one. it's 5.7kg for the one with extra stroke.
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/00946908/jack-bottle-omega-telescopic-hyd-2t

Cheers,
Scott

Garfield
21st October 2016, 06:47 PM
---
EDIT: wrong one. it's 5.7kg for the one with extra stroke.
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/00946908/jack-bottle-omega-telescopic-hyd-2t

Cheers,
Scott



Thanks Scortt. The 4.7kg extra weight maybe worth the stability over the LR scissor jack ( and also bottle jack ) - just pop it under the control arm and don't have to worry about it slipping off. But yes trolley jack bigger to store. If I end up getting a camper trailer, I'll have some where to store it and definitely get a trolley jack. According to trolley jack box measurements, it should fit in my drawers.


P.S I've just had APT Rock sliders fitted and Ben said I can lift the vehicle using a high lift jack off the sliders. Do you think I could use a trolley jack under the sliders as well ? Any thoughts ?

g5k
21st October 2016, 07:32 PM
I've ended up ordering both, the AliBaba trolley and the Blackwoods bottle.

LRD414
21st October 2016, 08:01 PM
Do you think I could use a trolley jack under the sliders as well ? Any thoughts ?
Probably not. The sliders are higher off the ground than the chassis rail.
You will use up most of the jack extension just getting up to the slider.

When away on a trip and fully loaded, I don't want the extra 5kg of the trolley jack when the bottle jack works well anyway.

Cheers,
Scott

Garfield
21st October 2016, 08:28 PM
I've ended up ordering both, the AliBaba trolley and the Blackwoods bottle.


Sounds like a good idea g5k. I'll be interested to hear what you think of the trolley jack once it arrives.


Scott, you are probably right with sliders sitting too high and trolley jack not having enough reach. Only other option I am considering is an exhaust jack but they too take up quite a bit of storage room .

g5k
22nd October 2016, 07:46 AM
Got a msg from Ali and the supplier is out of stock and he wanted to substitute it. If only it was that simple :)

dirvine
22nd October 2016, 08:23 AM
I like the idea of this trolley jack as it is compact, has a carry case and only weighs 10kg in the case. How much does the Omega 2 ton jack weigh ? How much weight are you saving with the bottle jack ?

I bought this jack on Thursday. Delivered the next day. That was real quick. Opened the box and it is a 2.25 Ton jack. Works a treat. A bit bulkier (and heavier I think 10kg is generous) than a bottle jack, but I will take on trips as it is easier to work. I have made a base plate out of thick builders ply so I can use it out on 4wd trips.


David

Garfield
22nd October 2016, 08:45 AM
I bought this jack on Thursday. Delivered the next day. That was real quick. Opened the box and it is a 2.25 Ton jack. Works a treat. A bit bulkier (and heavier I think 10kg is generous) than a bottle jack, but I will take on trips as it is easier to work. I have made a base plate out of thick builders ply so I can use it out on 4wd trips.


David


Thanks David. Was that the jack from ebay or Aliexpress ? Does it state what the weight of the trolley jack is on the box or jack - just to confirm ? I will probably order one as well. So much easier to use a trolley jack

Stuart02
22nd October 2016, 10:58 AM
Probably not. The sliders are higher off the ground than the chassis rail.
You will use up most of the jack extension just getting up to the slider.

When away on a trip and fully loaded, I don't want the extra 5kg of the trolley jack when the bottle jack works well anyway.

Cheers,
Scott

That's where the Roadsafe ram extenders could make the bottle jack more useful - there's a top plate option for round jacking points up to 80mm (such as axle tubes)

Stuart02
22nd October 2016, 11:01 AM
Sorry if I'm diverting an informative thread, but back to my permanent jack fantasy, check this awesomeness out :)

architectgroup rally-raid team (http://www.raid.architectgroup.ro/Architectgroup_Rally-Raid_Team/bowler_nemesis.html)

"Auto Hydraulic Jack
The gearbox under tray has two roles. As well as providing protection it can also hinge down by means of two hydraulic rams to lift the car. The cylinders are powered by a electro / hydraulic power pack and controlled by a solenoid valve block. There is an electrical isolator switch (marked with a padlock) to prevent inadvertent operation. "

dirvine
22nd October 2016, 01:23 PM
Thanks David. Was that the jack from ebay or Aliexpress ? Does it state what the weight of the trolley jack is on the box or jack - just to confirm ? I will probably order one as well. So much easier to use a trolley jack
bought the ebay model. Bit dearer as i also wanted the jack stands:p. I can no longer see any weight as I burnt the box in the fire last night!. I think you will find it is the same company selling on both forums. I know the Ali was probably cheaper.

g5k
26th October 2016, 02:55 PM
bought the ebay model. Bit dearer as i also wanted the jack stands:p. I can no longer see any weight as I burnt the box in the fire last night!. I think you will find it is the same company selling on both forums. I know the Ali was probably cheaper.

Hopefully not this little number on eBay
NEW 2 Ton Hydraulic Trolley Jack Lifts 2T 2000kg Low Profile Car SUV 4WD Jack Ca | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111847100391)

letherm
26th October 2016, 03:37 PM
Hopefully not this little number on eBay
NEW 2 Ton Hydraulic Trolley Jack Lifts 2T 2000kg Low Profile Car SUV 4WD Jack Ca | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111847100391)

That's the solid gold one. :p

Martin

dirvine
27th October 2016, 09:23 AM
Ha Ha, No That one also would not fit in the plastic carry box. Also that one is only 2 tons. Mine is rated at 2.25t. Going down to High Country this week end. Hopefully the jack just goes for the ride. Interested to see how my Maxxis tyres perform in the mud and rock.

tonyci
27th October 2016, 06:32 PM
Scot
Firstly thank you for you're contributions and helpful summaries in relation to this thread.

You mention " Vehicle will drop all the way down close to bump stops on this corner and the jack may not be removable". Do you know why the vehicle drops so low ?.

Like most others who have contributed to this I am amazed that Land Rover persists with this jack.
The UK forum is also very critical of this jack.
Cheers and thanks to everybody for the helpful suggestions.
Tony

LRD414
27th October 2016, 08:33 PM
You mention " Vehicle will drop all the way down close to bump stops on this corner and the jack may not be removable". Do you know why the vehicle drops so low ?
Tony, my understanding is that the height sensor gets out of range but I don't know that for certain.

Scott

dirvine
28th October 2016, 06:45 AM
I guess with a bottle jack it might get stuck when the car drops to the bump stops on the corner you have just lifted. With the little trolley jack, that does not happen as it is very low in height when it is down.

LRD414
28th October 2016, 10:01 AM
..... might get stuck when the car drops to the bump stops on the corner you have just lifted....
Not a big issue, suspension lifts to normal as soon as vehicle turned on.

Scott

BMKal
3rd November 2016, 01:45 PM
Here's an interesting option. Pity it seems to have never made it into production.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPRT7wqOz6s

Oztourer
13th May 2017, 08:41 AM
Digging up an old thread. For those in southern Sydney this guy has a few available. $25 each.

Omega 2 Ton Telescopic Bottle Jack - 2000 kgs Automotive Tyre Changes Roadside | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Omega-2-Ton-Telescopic-Bottle-Jack-2000-kgs-Automotive-Tyre-Changes-Roadside-/222343589286?hash=item33c4b5eda6:g:FTQAAOSwux5YT55 n)

Meccles
14th May 2017, 06:44 AM
I've got 6 t kingchrome which works with wooden base underneath. But bear in mind that these jacks have to be stored upright, they leak oil if stored on their side - out the filler hole which is typically blanked with a push in rubber bung that is not leakproof. I learnt the hard way lucky jack was in a plastic bag. So when I needed it- it didn't work as it was half empty of oil.

Chops
14th May 2017, 08:30 AM
I've got 6 t kingchrome which works with wooden base underneath. But bear in mind that these jacks have to be stored upright, they leak oil if stored on their side - out the filler hole which is typically blanked with a push in rubber bung that is not leakproof. I learnt the hard way lucky jack was in a plastic bag. So when I needed it- it didn't work as it was half empty of oil.

You could replace the gromit plug with a screw in version, which would then allow you to lay it on its side.

BMKal
14th May 2017, 12:36 PM
I've got 6 t kingchrome which works with wooden base underneath. But bear in mind that these jacks have to be stored upright, they leak oil if stored on their side - out the filler hole which is typically blanked with a push in rubber bung that is not leakproof. I learnt the hard way lucky jack was in a plastic bag. So when I needed it- it didn't work as it was half empty of oil.

I have the same jack. It stores upright in the gap between my BOAB drawer system and the wheel arch on the left side of my D4. I deliberately mounted the drawer system slightly to the right of centre to provide enough "gap" to fit a plastic jerry can of water, the jack and a container of oil alongside the drawers - it's a nice tight fit and nothing moves. In the narrower "gap" on the other side of the drawer system, my 80W fold-up solar panel set sits nicely, along with an awning extension and a roll of LED strip lighting. [biggrin]

If you are a bit pushed for room, Supercheap do a 4 tonne bottle jack which is similar in size to the Kinchrome 6 tonne unit, but which actually has a slightly better lift height. I have one of these as well. The only difference was that the spindle on top of the Supercheap jack was slightly larger diameter (only about the thickness of the paint) than the one on the Kinchrome, and LandyAndy's jack adapter would not fit onto it .............. until I gave it a quick touch up on the bench grinder. [wink11]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/491.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/zdvlzgnox/) https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/492.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/oplccvigr/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/493.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/o5e7qge41/)