p38 temperature

[Eevo]

last week the p38 coolant was always reading 65-70, even after 5 hours of driving. i assumed stuck open thermostat and ordered a new one.

since replacing it, the coolant stays at 97 degrees.

does this sound right or have i messed something up?

[Pedro_The_Swift]

If its a Thor P38 then 96/7 is correct,,

good luck with that by the way--

[Eevo]

i have a gems p38. but i thought the thermostat was the same for both gems and thor

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Pass.

[TheTree]

That looks right to me, there are a few threads on this

Steve

[p38arover]

See http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/213540-normal-operating-temps-p38s.html

The ScanGauge on mine says its running at 87 deg. I have a thermostat in the inlet manifold. The original thermostat housing has been removed and replaced by a fabricated dummy bought from Davis Performance Landys.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/201743-thermostats-2.html#post2187351

[TheTree]

My engine watchdog runs around 87 usually

Steve

[Eevo]

thanks guys, ive read so many different answers i dont know what to think

[TheTree]

thanks guys, ive read so many different answers i dont know what to think

Seems like the general consensus is around the mid to high 80's

Also the GEMS and THOR thermostats are the same as far as I can tell.

Steve

[Pedro_The_Swift]

maybe the same part physically, a few different temps though. The Thor engine left the factory at 96.

[TheTree]

maybe the same part physically, a few different temps though. The Thor engine left the factory at 96.

They are the same part number (PEM101130) so the differences must be somewhere else such as the flow rates or water galley sizes perhaps.

After all the THOR engine has that stupid top hose which is higher than the cooling reservoir :wasntme:

Steve

[Scouse]

After all the THOR engine has that stupid top hose which is higher than the cooling reservoir :wasntme:

How do you think I feel? The diesel has a vertically split radiator so I have 2 top hoses.

[p38arover]

Does anyone have a dead thermostat which can have the plastic housing removed to read the temperature stamped on the thermostat itself?

[Keithy P38]

Does anyone have a dead thermostat which can have the plastic housing removed to read the temperature stamped on the thermostat itself?

I cleaned the garage out on Sunday and threw an old thermostat out! Bin man came yesterday :-(

[Eevo]

I cleaned the garage out on Sunday and threw an old thermostat out! Bin man came yesterday :-(

mine was this morning, talk about timing lol

[TheTree]

How do you think I feel? The diesel has a vertically split radiator so I have 2 top hoses.

Twice as much fun ? :angel:

[Rextheute]

Without boring you tears with my mental condition brought on by P38 temp gauges and running temp .........

Benji ran his nancom across my p38 ,all was normal water temp internal was steady @ 86 deg according to the temp gauge sensor - on gauge 3/4 .

I fitted an engine watchdog to the thermo housing - it reads 78-80 deg constant .

This makes me feel better as i can see it change .

I was under the impression that the thermostat was an 82 deg - dont quote me on that ......

[Eevo]

from rave.
"The thermostat is closed at temperatures below
approximately 80 ?C (176 ?F). When the coolant
temperature reaches between 80 to 84 ?C
(176 to 183 ?F) the thermostat starts to open and is
fully open at approximately 96 ?C (204 ?F). In this
condition the full flow of coolant is directed through the
radiator."

but i cant find what normal/optimal temperature is in rave

[Rextheute]

My understanding was that at 204 or 96 ...the red light would be on as that is basically self destruct mode ........

I have a note at home some where,

The gist being that the blue section on gauge was up to 45deg ,

The two marks from 1/4 to 3/4 were normal or 46-84,

And the gap between 3/4 to red were 85-95 , after that the light comes on .

I ran a laser temp gauge across the top hose and the top thermo housing and it never went over 83deg ( no matter what my dodgy gauge said - which according to nanocom is working as intended ....):angel:

[Scouse]

My understanding was that at 204 or 96 ...the red light would be on as that is basically self destruct mode ........

Most modern cooling systems are designed to go past 100degC before causing any issues. My diesel goes up to 105 while the gauge is sitting smack bang in the middle of 'normal'.

[p38arover]

Most modern cooling systems are designed to go past 100degC before causing any issues. My diesel goes up to 105 while the gauge is sitting smack bang in the middle of 'normal'.

The RAVE Tech Bulletin says 105 is correct:


During road test, did temperature
gauge read beyond vertical with
coolant temperature of 105



C ?

Yes

Normal coolant
temperature is
confirmed but
gauge is over
reading.

For the GEMS V8, the P38A Training Document says (in the Engine Management System section) 85 deg C is normal operating temperature.

[Eevo]

maybe its time for a new radiator n a clean out then

[daf11e]

Eevo just a long shot but when I put a new thermostat in mine I had heating issues, and after replacing a few things someone said check your new thermostat and when I did it was stuck half open......As I say a long shot but when you check radiator etc. check the thermostat as I didn't assuming it was new and good.Best of luck.

Jim

[Eevo]

cheers mate.
i didnt test the thermostat before i put it in, i should know better too.

the radiator is original and after 2 decades is probably full of crap

[daf11e]

I changed mine at that time and yes while the water was running through seemingly ok it was caked thick with crap in the whole top section ( I cut her open and had a look).

[Eevo]

can anyone confirm part number PCC106940 is correct?

[daf11e]

That's the number Atlantic British has listed, I'm sure someone with a gems will confirm.....when I ordered mine I made sure the top hose was on the correct side as I think that's the major difference.

[Eevo]

i was playing around this evening.
if it put it in 3rd going up the freeway, the temp drops to 89. perfect. this is a problem of volume of flow. so its either rad or water pump.

[daf11e]

What you say makes sense as in water flow (or possible blockage) however if it's ok at speed and bad at slow (as in traffic) don't rule out possible viscous fan.

PS. Just re read your first post.....why did you change the thermostat, was it just the low temp or was it playing up?

[Eevo]

What you say makes sense as in water flow (or possible blockage) however if it's ok at speed and bad at slow (as in traffic) don't rule out possible viscous fan.

PS. Just re read your first post.....why did you change the thermostat, was it just the low temp or was it playing up?

it was sitting at low temp, didnt get over 70 even after 6h of driving.

[daf11e]

Mine runs at around 95 but not sure about your gems, however if it is running hot at slow speeds I would drain the fluid check the thermostat and flush the radiator as a starting point.....

Jim

[mtb_gary]

My 4.6 GEMS runs at 84-86?C according to the aftermarket digital thermometer alarm that I have mounted on the dashboard.

[p38arover]

the radiator is original and after 2 decades is probably full of crap

This was mine:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=97137&stc=1&d=1438261165

[Eevo]

rust?

[finallyrangie]

Couple of years ago I took my original radiator ( well it came with the car ) to a specialist to get it rodded and refurbished, the bloke there looked at the ends and just said no, there was rust and it wouldn't survive being repaired, in all honesty $330 for a new replacement for the peace of mind was not a high price to pay in my opinion.

[Eevo]

a threw in a new rad.
temps down to 91c with normal driving
with high revving like up a hill it drops to 86c
idling about 94c
i think im happy

[Eevo]

fix one thing, break another.

o-rings leaking.

ive done a bypass on a heatercore.

now to read up on how to fix without pulling the whole dash apart

[Scouse]

There's plenty of write ups on how to do heater core O rings while the dash is in.

Personally, I have no problem with taking the dash out to do the job though. Once you've removed the necessary trim to get access, there's surprisingly little more to be done before the dash can be removed.
It also gives you a chance to replace the perished foam on the vent flap areas & fit anti-rattle tape to the mounts.

[TheTree]

There's plenty of write ups on how to do heater core O rings while the dash is in.

Personally, I have no problem with taking the dash out to do the job though. Once you've removed the necessary trim to get access, there's surprisingly little more to be done before the dash can be removed.
It also gives you a chance to replace the perished foam on the vent flap areas & fit anti-rattle tape to the mounts.

Glad to hear that, i have a dash job on my list. Audi Core, free the airbox flaps, replace the blend motor and the blower motor brushes

Steve

[ozscott]

In my 4.6 Thor D2 I have a cooler thermostat - i think its the PEM101020 but i am checking that part number.

My 4.0 used to run at 88-96 typically. From the ultragauge I can tell that when the (over damped) temp gauge reaches the mid way point the collant temp is 70 degrees. I know from overheating the 4.0 that the factory gauge stays still until about 115-120 degrees.

With the cooler thermostat the 4.6 runs typically at 87-88 under all conditions and reached 89 once recently briefly before goin back to 88.

I dont know what my 3.9 D1 runs at because I only have the factory gauge. I have always thought the gems 3.9 seemed cooler under bonnet...and thought that was one reason why the 3.9's had less problems generally than the thors. Perhaps with Thor it was a combination of running leaner than GEMS and castings being thinner and thinner over time. The 4.6's of course have the thicker castings.

Cheers

[donh54]

Does anyone have a dead thermostat which can have the plastic housing removed to read the temperature stamped on the thermostat itself?

Bit of a tardy answer, but when I did mine, you can read the temp setting (stamped on the bottom of the thermostat - look through the spigot that leads to the bottom radiator hose)

[ozscott]

Is the part number on the thermostat Donh?

Cheers

[donh54]

Is the part number on the thermostat Donh?

Cheers

Can't see it on the one I pulled out.

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

[benji]

My demolished one said 88c.



Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

[TheTree]

I am fitting an Aussie Desert Cooler with an electric fan so these temp readings have been of great help

I am going to use a Tridon TFS208 switch Operating Temp: 95?C - 85?C & 102?C - 92?C

I plan to hook the aircon fans up to the higher temperature switch

So main fan on at 95 and off at 95, aircon fans on at 102 and off at 92

TFS208 - Thermo Fan Switches | Tridon (http://www.tridon.com.au/products/Tridon/35/483/switches-and-sensors/2014/thermo-fan-switches/333/TFS208)

Should do the business :cool:

Steve

[FANTOM P38]

Hey steve I have had an Aussie Desert cooler for quite a while now. When I fitted it I also replaced thermostat & water pump & viscous coupling & belts. Since install it constantly runs slightly lower than original. Dont know exact temps but needle on temp gauge is about 2 needle widths lower than previously even on exteremly hot days whilst offroad.
So going to trouble of electric fans seems overkill to me. Each to their own though - if you need the extra peace of mind!

[ozscott]

You could fit up the fan so b when ac compressor is on so is leccy fan....ie like just about every other car on the planet rather than clever dick ideas about certain parameters that the BCU works on....assuming late p38a is same as a d2 here. Cheers

[Scouse]

Most modern cooling systems are designed to go past 100degC before causing any issues. My diesel goes up to 105 while the gauge is sitting smack bang in the middle of 'normal'.


The RAVE Tech Bulletin says 105 is correct:



For the GEMS V8, the P38A Training Document says (in the Engine Management System section) 85 deg C is normal operating temperature.There's one large hill near me with a 60kph speed limit that repeatedly troubles the diesel so I've run a few tests with the Nanocom hooked up.

I've found my gauge 'dead spot' is 90deg to 105deg. A mere 2deg past 105 & it's right up to the top of the normal range & about to activate the red temperature warning light (which also puts the engine into limp mode).

:mad:

[Rextheute]

Well , yesterday in Melbourne the temp was 44deg ambient .
Normally my p38 runs at 80-81 on the watchdog ( gauge is all over the place ) I live outside of Melbourne so it's a 100km/ Jr. Run .

Yesterday sat on a steady 87 deg for the 60 km run home .

The gauge went wild .....in the morning I had the dreaded 'gearbox fault' so maybe a new battery is in order also .
The aircon was dialled up tho !

[D2lee]

96C seem "design intent" for Thor


....although I've gone with Des Hamill's advice to keep it 75c to 80c max in the hope of avoiding cracked heads and liner slips. Only time will tell, but he's had almost none in racing engines at these temps.


Note: according to NANOCOM, fuel enrichment is ceased by 60C and engine is in closed loop.

[Keithy P38]

In a race engine that isn't a problem as fuel consumption isn't a big deal. Engines make more power when cool, but are more efficient when hot (I.E. Richer fuel mix when cool to compensate for low heat of motor, leaner mixture when hot to compensate for heat). It's why the Thor will run hotter than a gems - by design (fuel efficiency)

[mtb_gary]

I was towing the boat yesterday with the temp gauge sitting on the high side of normal. Watchdog was indicating 92-94C whilst the traffic came to a standstill on the freeway. Once moving again temp dropped back to 91C. Outside air was 39C according to the weather bureau and 44 according to the car. The car was loaded up with 2 ton boat 4 people and all of the ski gear with the A/C doing a splendid job of keeping the cabin at a very pleasant 24C. I've not seen my temperature go up that high before even in similar circumstances....it could be time for a replacement radiator not too far down the track :censored:

[Rextheute]

Well , funny you say that .....My battery collapsed - once i was home !

And the car wouldnt start on Thursday , there were man tears and much angst .

Superheap had a battery sale on Sat so i treated it to a new one .

Still didnt start , fuel pump relay needed replacement .

Swapped one out and yay it works .

But seemed okay on the way to work today @ 81-82 deg on watchdog - ambient was 30 deg .

I am contemplating the change over of the radiator , water pump and thermostat / hoses .

[D2lee]

In a race engine that isn't a problem as fuel consumption isn't a big deal. Engines make more power when cool, but are more efficient when hot (I.E. Richer fuel mix when cool to compensate for low heat of motor, leaner mixture when hot to compensate for heat). It's why the Thor will run hotter than a gems - by design (fuel efficiency)

true about racing fuel consumption, I'm monitoring mine to see if there's any noticeable difference running at 70-80C compared with 96-100C. I log through the OBD port and also record mileage between each fill-up. Also, If I was just doing short stop/start journeys, I would worry about other issues running cooler (my P6 always had condensation in the oil), but as most of my journeys are a 30-40min freeway/highway run, it gets nicely warmed up.

Regarding power, I read that it tails off above 90C.

Emissions - well, it's a 1950's V8, the particular emissions they reduce by running hot is probably offset by an increase in other emissions.

Land Rover design - no comment, I used to work there. Did VW make the right design decisions regarding their vehicle emissions? Decisions are made to meet operational, functional, financial, marketing and timing targets. The 1950's engine was not designed to be bored out and to meet emissions requirements up to 2004. It was forced to do this to meet targets.

Obviously I'm not the expert on engine temps and slipped liners, but over the last 2 months I've read every related D2 thread and everything I can find on the internet regarding the issue, including Des Hammil's enlightening book. Besides the thinning of the walls by boring out to 94mm, the twisting and pulling action of head bolts instead of studs (and their over-torqueing) and the inconsistent position of the coolant passages meaning the wall thickness can be down to 1mm, temperature seems to be the other factor. LR knew about all of this and took no action. That (potential) 1mm of cast alluminum, being tugged on by the head bolts, under pressure from the coolant, trying to hold it's grip on the liners, loses 30% of its strength at 100C.

[ozscott]

The 4.6 blocks were min 2.5mm from memory and they would shoot to use 3mm blocks as a min when possible. What thermostat do you have that runs so cool? My 4.6 D2 runs the Freelander thermostat and gets typically 84-87 and sometimes on really hot days at idle.after an uphill run or labouring uphill with 2 tonns on the back it will see 91.

Cheers

[Rextheute]

As far as I know it's a 'stock' thermo - 83 deg , fully open .

It will show 84-85 on tHe watchdog at long idle in traffic as soon as you start rolling it goes down .
I tow my camper - approx 800 kg loaded and it doesn't seem to affect it .
My temp gauge is all over the place and used to terrify me , but I've found the watchdog fantastic , it moves one deg , the gauge moves into hot ...

It can run for hours or a few hundred kms and the watch dog stays steady .

Bloody land rovers !

[ozscott]

Haha.

Ok hold on your watchdog with bolt on sensor that goes on the alloy will likely show a lower temp than what is recorded by the coolant temp sensor. By the sound of it your coolant temp would be the same as mine.

Cheers

[Rextheute]

You are prob right , bolted to front thermo housing ( well on and older eng ) and right next to gauge sender - yes the nutty one !

I've used a laser heat gun all over the motor

( as I'm afraid it will turn into a ball of fire .....)

And it seems to be even all over motor , there are cool spots .
Header tank is usually 48-50 deg , top and bottom hoses are approx 30 deg diff and the thermo housing is 82 at inlet , so it 'works' .
Exhaust headers run at 275 deg - it's interesting watching the cylinders heat up and cool through an ignition cycle .

I have a v8 Holden ( 308 - stock except for a strong cam ) it runs at 100 deg constant , and feels hot . Apparently normal

My old slant six Valiant runs at 65-70 no matter what - doesn't seem to get warm ( triple row rad tho ! )

I think the fear is always a slipped liner , burst head gasket etc , which will I expect end the usefulness of the car , I worked for a Land Rover dealership through the 1992 - 2005 era and don't remember there being a 'huge ' issue with these problems , we did sell a lot of blocks tho .....
My p38 is at 275,000 km. And is smooth - not super powerful ,but I accept is a heavy old thing .
So I will prob renew a few essential cooling his and it should keep chugging on ..

[TheTree]

Well I had a little issue where it was getting pretty hot under load, so I replaced the water pump with a spareI had and it helped a little.

So the next suspect was the thermostat, I replaced it with a BearMach OEM version and guess what , the motor runs about 5 degrees hotter now :mad:

So i am thinking of the solution DPL used on Rons old setup, maybe I can even drill out the thermostat from the old housing I have here

Then use a classic thermostat in the top hose, they come in 82 and 88 it seems

Steve

[TheTree]

Ok hold on your watchdog with bolt on sensor that goes on the alloy will likely show a lower temp than what is recorded by the coolant temp sensor. By the sound of it your coolant temp would be the same as mine.
Cheers


Before I changed the water pump there was about 5 degree difference between the watchdog and the nanocom (watchdog lower), after the water pump was changed that came down to about 2-3 degrees

Steve

[Rextheute]

An open ended question .

Do we as group , stress too much over the 1 or 5 degree changes in temp ?

If the engines have lasted this long , surely ( don;t call me Shirley ) they will continue to run - with maintenance of course .

Were the original owners this pedantic with temp changes and which coolant is better , my oil has done 5020kms - the world will end !

I do garner lustful thoughts to a late l322 tho .........

[ozscott]

Yes mate. As long as they are running under 100 almost all the time.

Cheers

[Rextheute]

Ahhhh I feel better now ! 😀😀😀

[TheTree]

That's my problem it is running too close to 100 with this new thermostat

I checked the spare inlet manifold I have an the groove for the thermostat is there. This is where the V8 defenders have their thermostats

ETC4765 thermostat 88C; defender
Tridon 54mm main flange, 82C
TT1-180 standard
TT2000-180 - Thermostat (High Flow) , they say 30% more coolant flow

And cheap at under $30.00 for the high flow version!

Steve

[Hammer H]

Do we need a thermostat in at all?

I was recently told about water wetter anyone tried it?
Red Line Synthetic Oil - WaterWetter? Coolant Additives (http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10)

Paul

[Eevo]

Save your money. It worked fine out of the factory, don't need any additives.

[Hammer H]

Steve are you not happy with the ba thermo?

Paul

[ozscott]

I have used redline water wetter. It didnt reduce my temps on the SG. Cheers

[TheTree]

Steve are you not happy with the ba thermo?

Paul

Mate

The BA thermo is great but the new thermostat I put in makes the whole thing run about 5 degrees hotter and I am getting a little tired of paying $$ for what seems like a bit of a lucky dip :(

Steve

[garybrook]

Hi Steve,

you're not the only one. I replaced my radiator, waterpump and thermostat, all good OEM parts, and my temperatures increased from 91C to 95C - and the engine bay is certainly much hotter during this summer.

Regarding drilling the thermostat - has anyone done that, and did it reduced the temperatures? In therory, the drilling can increase the flow even when it is closed, like a bleed hole, but when it starts to open it is still temperature-sensing and should adjust the flow even when it balances the drilling when passing the water throught it. But does it, in practice?

Gary.

[ozscott]

I would think that indicates poor second hand parts specs. This is a real problem...even previously trusted names in second hand parts are having problems. Were the parts all genuine (although i dont know that is a guarantee these days with so many chinese parts)? I wonder if a custom made radiator is the answer? Did you check the thermostat in hot water to see if it fully opens....failure of thermostats out of the box is becoming more common.

Cheers

[TheTree]

Hi Steve,

you're not the only one. I replaced my radiator, waterpump and thermostat, all good OEM parts, and my temperatures increased from 91C to 95C - and the engine bay is certainly much hotter during this summer.

Regarding drilling the thermostat - has anyone done that, and did it reduced the temperatures? In therory, the drilling can increase the flow even when it is closed, like a bleed hole, but when it starts to open it is still temperature-sensing and should adjust the flow even when it balances the drilling when passing the water throught it. But does it, in practice?

Gary.

Seems like a general issue with these parts :(

Not sure about drilling the thermostat but I am getting Aussie Desert Cooler to quote on a Ron Beckett style "Sputnik" so I can use a Tridon thermostat in the top hose

Steve

[TheTree]

I would think that indicates poor second hand parts specs. This is a real problem...even previously trusted names in second hand parts are having problems. Were the parts all genuine (although i dont know that is a guarantee these days with so many chinese parts)? I wonder if a custom made radiator is the answer? Did you check the thermostat in hot water to see if it fully opens....failure of thermostats out of the box is becoming more common.

Cheers

Mate I agree 100% it seems to be getting worse.

In this case I didn't test it since it was OEM/LRW approved blah blah

I have a custom radiator already !

Steve

[ozscott]

Good stuff mate. It gives me the pip that old cars are let down by new parts

Cheers

[TheTree]

Good stuff mate. It gives me the pip that old cars are let down by new parts

Cheers

I agree mate and I suspect a lot of the problems we see are related to poor quality replacement parts

I have had issues with expansion tanks and caps as well (genuine only for me now)

Steve

[TheTree]

Well I installed the adaptor and put the Tridon 82 degree high flow thermostat in and what a difference !

The engine now runs around the mid 80's on the watchdog; close to a 10 degree drop in operating temperature

My next step is to change my air con condenser, since the existing one is badly corroded and I suspect it's causing a massive restriction in airflow

Steve

[Hammer H]

Hi Steve,

What temp does it sit at idling

I've just fitted the bf single fan to the desert cooler. I'm not confident it will be as effective as the viscous. I Will have to wait for the right conditions to test it.

Paul

[TheTree]

Hi Steve,

What temp does it sit at idling

I've just fitted the bf single fan to the desert cooler. I'm not confident it will be as effective as the viscous. I Will have to wait for the right conditions to test it.

Paul

Mate

I let it idle today when I got home, it was 22 degrees air temp and when the watchdog went down to 83 the fan turned off and when it hit 86 the fan came on. It seems to happily cycle like that, at least in cooler weather

Steve

[Hammer H]

Thanks Steve,

I've fitted a DC controller, which varies fan speed, idling it sits at 86/87c. With the fan at a constant speed. If I set the controller to a lower temp it will cool to 80c for example switch off, and cycle on-and off as the temp raises then lowers, I think the thermostat must be closing and opening.


I will have to wait for a hot day to give it the acid test,

Paul

[TheTree]

Thanks Steve,

I've fitted a DC controller, which varies fan speed, idling it sits at 86/87c. With the fan at a constant speed. If I set the controller to a lower temp it will cool to 80c for example switch off, and cycle on-and off as the temp raises then lowers, I think the thermostat must be closing and opening.


I will have to wait for a hot day to give it the acid test,

Paul

Hi Mate

Which DC controller did you use ?

Steve

[Hammer H]

Fk45, testing so far it will hold the temp at 86/87 at idle I have also manual overide.

Paul

[ozscott]

Are these temps from stock temp sensor?

[Hammer H]

I have a watchdog temp gauge, not stock temp sensor,

Paul

[ozscott]

Ok so attaches to metal on outside? I wonder how much hotter the water temp is? At a guess 5 degrees at least.
Cheers

[TheTree]

Ok so attaches to metal on outside? I wonder how much hotter the water temp is? At a guess 5 degrees at least.
Cheers

Mine used to be around 5 but since changing my water pump and doing the mods it is generally about 2 degrees difference

Steve

[TheTree]

I replaced my air-con condenser a couple of days ago and thought I might post a pic of it to show just how much airflow was being lost

Steve

[Mark Adams]

Purely in the interests of science, I am converting my 2001 P38 4.6 Vogue to the Disco 2 version of the cooling system this weekend. Of course I'll let you know how I get on, and I may even remember to take a picture or two.

In my opinion the Disco 2 layout is better, because the heater doesn't return into the thermostat housing. It also has a much bigger bypass, and an 82 degree thermostat is freely available (PEM101020).

If you want to track down a PEM101020, it is important to be aware that this part number covers two quite similar thermostats with quite different characteristics. The one you want is the Black 82?C version with Hard spring, that is specifically intended for the Rover V8. You will also find a Cream coloured 87?C with a Medium spring, which was first being used on FreeLander & MGF/TF.

There is only one thermostat available for the P38 as far as I know, which is the PEM101130. Depending on where you get it from, it has a cream or black body with an 87 or 88?C thermostat inside. The original Land Rover ones have a Waxstat thermostat in them.

Most of the Disco 2 hoses fit too, as the heater pipes and top outlet pipe are common to both engines. I'm not anticipating a difficult job here (famous last words)... :D

[TheTree]

My current thinking is that it's running a bit too cool now, the factory gauge is only just above the blue section

I may go for the next thermostat up, the 88 degree one, it only takes 10 mins to change now :p

Steve

[Hammer H]

Purely in the interests of science, I am converting my 2001 P38 4.6 Vogue to the Disco 2 version of the cooling system this weekend. Of course I'll let you know how I get on, and I may even remember to take a picture or two.. :D

Please do, very interested mark.

Paul

[Hammer H]

My current thinking is that it's running a bit too cool now, the factory gauge is only just above the blue section

I may go for the next thermostat up, the 88 degree one, it only takes 10 mins to change now :p

Steve

Steve, Id much prefer low 80s, as long as it is closed loop.

Mark the discos had a 82 degree stat but any ideas of the actual temps they ran at?

Paul

[ozscott]

On my scangauge mine goes close loop well before 70 degrees.

Cheers

[Eevo]

from memory close loop is 60 or 65

[ozscott]

Yep something like that

[Mark Adams]

Sadly the weekend plans were scuppered by a no-show of the new thermostat. I'm hoping it will show up in the next couple of days. :-(

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Steve, Id much prefer low 80s, as long as it is closed loop.

Mark the discos had a 82 degree stat but any ideas of the actual temps they ran at?

Paul

The D2's had a factory 96deg fitted.
all for emissions.

96deg is like being made to do forward somersaults on a knife edge, over a bed of nails, on top of a really really tall antenna thingy -----
get the idea? ;)

[TheTree]

It's now a 10 tp 15 min job for me to change my thermostat and they only cost around $25. So I may do it sometime and see what the results are

Steve