Buying a 2005 high Km TDV6.

[kelvo]

I went and had a quick look at a 2005 TDV6 SE, currently has 268,000Km on the clock.

Had a drive and it feels ok, but I'm use to a D2 manual.

Things I know need doing,

SRS light is on, are there any common issues that cause that. A quick Google mentions the rotary coupler as a possible cause. On a D2 it is normally the seat harness plug. I had a look under both front seats and nothing obvious.
All four rotors & pads need replacing. Easy replacement I would have thought.
Transmission has never been serviced, so that will require doing with the steel pan upgrade.
Driver-side rear diff leaking on the output shaft to the wheel, just a seal?
Transferbox wet (No drips) where the 2 halves join. Check levels.

With me doing the work I have priced parts I think it needs at around $2500. This is using OEM parts not aftermarket copies.

The cam belt was do around 168,000Km, and it's on its 3rd air compressor (Last one was fitted around 3 years ago.) suspension raises and lowers quickly and smoothly.

My concern is the recent threads on the TDV6 engines seizing/failing. While some of these are due to the tensioner breaking after a cam belt change, are there other underlying issues with the TDV6 engine?

Am I stupid or brave to be considering buying it?

What would you expect to pay for it?

[~Rich~]

I'd say brave on this one especially the gearbox.
Factor in $6/7000 for that alone.
Changing the oil & pan at this stage is a gamble.

The transfer case weep can be fixed when the Auto gets done!

Brakes, Air compressor although they can add up in cost are general wear and tear items which you have to expect.

Rotary coupler no big deal as long as that's all it is.

Engine - check the service history for by the book servicing. If this has not been followed walk away. This is a major cause of lower engine failure issues.
As for the timing belt tensioner again check the service history to find out if it was replaced as it should of been.

Cheers Rich

[TerryO]

I'd be very cautious if there is a leak between the auto and the transfer case. It could be easy and not that expensive, it might not and if it isn't then it could be very expensive. Same goes for the auto if it's never had at least one proper service then that is a worry.

[kelvo]

I'd be very cautious if there is a leak between the auto and the transfer case. It could be easy and not that expensive, it might not and if it isn't then it could be very expensive. Same goes for the auto if it's never had at least one proper service then that is a worry.

The leak(Wet patch) is between the 2 halves of the transfer case, not the auto and transfer case. It isn't dripping, yet...

The auto has never been serviced :-(

[Disco-tastic]

The leak(Wet patch) is between the 2 halves of the transfer case, not the auto and transfer case. It isn't dripping, yet...

The auto has never been serviced :-(

Hi kelvo

Im also looking at a D3, though im looking at around the 100k km mark purely because of the transmission (people don't get them serviced cos they're told it's "sealed for life" ). If it hasn't been serviced at 260k km then its likely that its already worn too much and changing the oil will cause the problems to show up.

I am looking at higher mileage cars but of the auto hasn't been serviced then I'd be trying to get some money off it to fund a transmission rebuild. From what I've read they're $5-7k for a rebuild.

Cheers

Dan

[rar110]

D3s can have had the same problem I've had with my output shaft ie it wasn't lubricated by LR before bolting on the transfer. The result is the input gear for the transfer is also US. I agree if there is a tranny/transfer failure expect a cost of $7k.

If it's cheap enough it could be worth it.

The part number for the D3/4 6HP26 transmissions changed nearly every time LR put an order into ZF. That means quite a few changes were made to the boxes over the years. They were probably very minor changes but it could make fitting a used box problematic. The transfer box is the same as far as I can tell.

[Disco-tastic]

D3s can have had the same problem I've had with my output shaft ie it wasn't lubricated by LR before bolting on the transfer. The result is the input gear for the transfer is also US. I agree if there is a tranny/transfer failure expect a cost of $7k.

If it's cheap enough it could be worth it.

The part number for the D3/4 6HP26 transmissions changed nearly every time LR put an order into ZF. That means quite a few changes were made to the boxes over the years. They were probably very minor changes but it could make fitting a used box problematic. The transfer box is the same as far as I can tell.

There was also a stator bush problem with earlier boxes. There is an upgraded part but to be honest I dont know all the details.

I dont know what used boxes are worth but by the time its all fitted it may not be worth the risk with these transmissions. You seem pretty handy though so if you can save money on labour it might be worth it.

Personally I'd get it professionally rebuilt. Removes the issues of a second hand box and means all the latest upgraded parts for your gearbox part number should be installed, and so it should work no problems.

Cheers

Dan

[Nomad9]

Hi Kelvo,
I'm selling my D3 at the moment, I have sent you an email, if you are interested give me a call. Mine doesn't have any damp patches..........new compressor, control arms done and has had the steel pan conversion done. Fully Synthetic oil used, LG 6 in the gearbox. Upgraded to a RRS only reason for selling.

[vbrab]

My 2007 TDV6 has covered 326K, I bought it at 180k, nil ever trans service but oils changed every 10k.
If the trans has not been serviced at 250k, then you can expect no change from $8k for a full rebuild, which may not be far away.
Additionally, you would want to know if the oil pump housing on front of motor has been replaced with the upgrade pump housing, and while they are there they might as well do the front belts, idlers and tensioners.
Possibly $2+k bill for that, depends on parts prices and repairer.
You would also want to know when rear timing belt and tensioners done last.
(I think approx 160K is service interval for that).
Really all comes down to the details in the service history, from the leaks and such that you describe, seems this vehicle has had re-active services rather than pro-active services or repairs, so that vehicle would want to be very cheap, as you could easily spend $15k to just deal with the obvious.
I have spent $18K on pro-active maintenance on my TDV6 this year.
All I got for that was new full trans, all new hubs/brakes/discs, all belts tensioners/idlers, water pump, alternator, full aircon replacement, injector pump/pipes, just stuff that was likely due given the K's.
So be prepared to spend unless somebody can show you they have already spent.

[Disco-tastic]

I have spent $18K on pro-active maintenance on my TDV6 this year.

Ouch! Thats about what im hoping to spend on a petrol model!

[vbrab]

I would expect the petrol major maintenance would be way cheaper than on a diesel. The Diesel timing, fuel pump and pulleys and belts (and likely the air con compressor set up), would all be way dearer than same on petrol motor, so I guess the cheaper repairs on petrol make up for the difference in running costs of diesel over petrol.
There has be a silver lining somewhere in the petrol version.

[Nomad9]

Hi vbrab,
The fuel cost offset certainly makes up the difference petrol V diesel. Yeap my petrol might use maybe 2 or three litres / 100 klms, lets go $5 / 100 klms, I'm fine with that. My petrol V6 has been significantly cheaper to run than my last 2.7 TDV6 engine, and that is using genuine LR service parts as well.

Once you go beyond the bounds of the engine everything else is the same.

[TerryO]

Hi vbrab,
The fuel cost offset certainly makes up the difference petrol V diesel. Yeap my petrol might use maybe 2 or three litres / 100 klms, lets go $5 / 100 klms, I'm fine with that. My petrol V6 has been significantly cheaper to run than my last 2.7 TDV6 engine, and that is using genuine LR service parts as well.

Once you go beyond the bounds of the engine everything else is the same.


100% agree.

Our V8 D4 was far cheaper to purchase secondhand, then service and keep on the road maintenance wise then a comparable year and model diesel Disco.

From memory last time I worked it out in comparison between the TDV6 and the V8, I reckon over 200,000 klm of driving the V8 will use about $6,000 more in fuel.

A 2010 3.0 HSE with bugger all bells and whistles in comparison with a 2010 V8 D4 back when we brought ours was selling for about 15k more than the V8 because people were worried about fuel bills. That seams to have changed a bit recently as more people are working it out.

[Nomad9]

Hi Terry,
SHHHHHHHHHH, they'll all figure it out..........:)

[BobD]

You just have to do one run to the Murchison in WA where you find that there is no petrol for the forseeable future at the only two fuel stations in the region (Murchison and Gascoyne Junction) to be glad you have a diesel.


It is also good when you travel 1400km between refills on outback travels or have a heap in reserve when you find that there is no fuel at all at Gem Tree and have to travel to Alice Springs on your reserve of fuel to fill up jerry cans of petrol for the petrol cars in the convoy that are stuck there.


Apart from that the petrols are definitely cheaper to run. Just look at the problems I am having with my 3l at the moment in another post. I will probably have to replace the turbos soon as well, which will be a body off job.

[Disco-tastic]

From memory last time I worked it out in comparison between the TDV6 and the V8, I reckon over 200,000 klm of driving the V8 will use about $6,000 more in fuel.

Ive been doing similar calcs. Using the rated figures the v8 uses 5L more per 100km. Plus 98 ron fuel is 20c more expensive than diesel on the coast. I get $10/100km extra fuel cost for the v8 which translates to $20,000 over 200,000km.

95 ron hovers around 10c/L more expensive which makes it $10k over 200,000km.

Cheers

Dan

[Nicky]

Ive been doing similar calcs. Using the rated figures the v8 uses 5L more per 100km. Plus 98 ron fuel is 20c more expensive than diesel on the coast. I get $10/100km extra fuel cost for the v8 which translates to $20,000 over 200,000km.

95 ron hovers around 10c/L more expensive which makes it $10k over 200,000km.

Cheers

Dan

Great info, never seen comparison figures before, thanks!

[Nomad9]

Hi Bob,
If I am planning on the longer trip and intentionally know I am going to places with limited fuel supplies I would fit the long range tank and get an extra 145 litres and throw the spare on a roof rack.

I know what you are saying, however there are ways around everything, if I take camper I have an additional 60 litres on there well. Yes one way around things is to buy a diesel, I know.

[BobD]

Hi Bob,
If I am planning on the longer trip and intentionally know I am going to places with limited fuel supplies I would fit the long range tank and get an extra 145 litres and throw the spare on a roof rack.

I know what you are saying, however there are ways around everything, if I take camper I have an additional 60 litres on there well. Yes one way around things is to buy a diesel, I know.

Yes, that's mostly true. However, you wouldn't have known there was no petrol in the Murchison until you got there and the example on the Binns track was after using three jerry cans of petrol and the Patrol's two fuel tanks, so you would probably have been out of fuel as well when you hit Gem Tree. He was on empty for the last 100km into Gem Tree.


However, I have never found anywhere else in Australia where having a petrol car would be an issue, as long you are willing to use Opel. I just mentioned those examples (which are true and from last year) for a bit of fun.


By the way, Gem Tree was also out of diesel and they didn't know when they would get a delivery, despite only being about 140km from Alice Springs. There were many people towing large caravans stranded there and they had sold off as much of their generator's fuel as they could spare to try to get some of them out. I just drove to Alice in my diesel with a long range tank and refuelled , even though I was towing an 1800kg camper trailer and the Patrol only had a roof top tent.

[Nomad9]

Hi Bob,
Understand completely, my response was also a bit of tongue in cheek. Where we are now with fuel and overall fuel consumption rates after having a couple or three Diesel D3's and now owning a petrol D3, and noticeably aware of the lack of times I need to open my bonnet I am very impressed. The old petrol D3 just needs to be give a fair "shake of the sauce bottle"...............whatever that means.

Cheers Marty.

[TerryO]

Ive been doing similar calcs. Using the rated figures the v8 uses 5L more per 100km. Plus 98 ron fuel is 20c more expensive than diesel on the coast. I get $10/100km extra fuel cost for the v8 which translates to $20,000 over 200,000km.

95 ron hovers around 10c/L more expensive which makes it $10k over 200,000km.

Cheers

Dan


And that's fine that you have used the LR quoted book figures as the basis of your calculation but I actually own a TDV6 D3 and a V8 D4 which are both daily drivers and in real life comparison of our fuel usage over a long period of time in either vehicle and fuel prices where we live the fuel cost difference numbers work out at roughly what I have said.

[Disco-tastic]

And that's fine that you have used the LR quoted book figures as the basis of your calculation but I actually own a TDV6 D3 and a V8 D4 which are both daily drivers and in real life comparison of our fuel usage over a long period of time in either vehicle and fuel prices where we live the fuel cost difference numbers work out at roughly what I have said.

Gday Terry.

Sorry wasn't disputing your figures. Just adding my 2c. Fuel prices are going to be different everywhere.

Do you run the V8 on 98Ron?

Cheers

Dan

[TerryO]

deleted ... double up post

[TerryO]

Fuel prices do obviously make a difference, but our experience is the TDV6 isn't as frugal as LR claimed and the V8, when mainly driven in the country where we live, isn't anywhere near as thirsty as LR say it is. So the difference isn't great.

[BobD]

I'm thinking of getting a 2008 supercharged 4.2 L322 in the low $40,000 range so that I can take the pressure of my diesel D4 to make sure that it remains available for the touring trips and towing which the car is perfectly set up for. My D4 is just coming up to 200,000 km so I want to reduce usage a bit. It's also a good way to get the elusive ediff in an L322 Range Rover.


I figure it will add about $2500 per year in fuel costs over what the D4 would get for the same use.

[Nomad9]

Hi Bob,
There is one in Halls Head that might be worth a look. $32.5k Nearly went myself, 200k full service history, sounds OK, guy is quite keen. Aftermarket exhaust so just be mindful of possible O2 sensor issues. Apart from that sounds fine.