Big Bird has arrived.

[SuperChad]

Hi all,

Well the new project arrived yesterday evening. An in the bright light of day I had a good look around the yellow terror.

What I do know;

AMR 174-870 from the remlr.com website.
Engine original 253 20041K 28000 miles. 2.25 petrol
Chassis 253 2700d

I got very little, re nil info from the previous owner. Apparently in was a QLD RFS unit in western Queensland for 30yrs once it got discharged from the Army in 1982. Then it was bought by some bloke early 2000's. thats about it.

The engine starts and runs roughly until warm. I think there could be few days with the multimeter to get things like gauges and things working properly.

The usual mob of oil leaks but no too bad really.

Rust;

RR chassis rail some tiny holes hidden in the corners, not a big deal.
Passenger side fuel tank rusted through around the bung hole. Needs a new tank.
A few small holes in the footwell, easily fixable i think.
Biggest concern is the rust at the base of the A pillar. Not super bad, but will need attention though. Any ideas on the best way to fix it without replacing the whole firewall.

I have no plans to restore Bigbird to concourse condition, just to get it roadworthy and reliable enough to drive 10k's to work a few times a week and do the usual lap to Bunnings. I probably will change the colour back to an original Grey or something eventually.

Looking forward to the help and advice from all you experts out there.

Thanks in advance.

D

[crackers]

Compared to some on here, it's like new :D

Looks good. At least with those door frames, they're easy to unbolt and replace, no need for rust repairs.

How long before you start driving her to work? :D

Seriously, what's the plan. Get her working and fix things as you feel like it or strip and restore? (that's strip the Landy, not you :eek:)

[SuperChad]

My plan is to just get her working and fix things as they pop up. It just needs to be reliable and pass rego.
The main rust is the bottom of the A pillar where the door bolts on. Is that piece replaceable?

thanks
D

[gromit]

Repair sections are available for the bottom of the A pillar.

Land Rover Defender & Series 2 & 3 Lower Door Pillar Feet o/s - YRM Metal Solutions (http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/epages/BT4822.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4822/Products/050/SubProducts/050-0001)

Most local LR parts suppliers should be able to get them.

Before you scrap the existing tank cut out the dipstick. This was only fitted on the military Series II & IIa's and could be soldered in to a standard tank.


Colin

[JDNSW]

You can get replacement sections for the A-pillar. Note that as well as supporting the door, it is the main support for the bulkhead, via a large bolt onto the outrigger.

The original colour will not have been grey, but the green you see on the engine side of the bulkhead (and probably elsewhere).

It looks to be generally in fairly good condition, but expect to find a lot of little niggles to fix. The mileage on the speedo is possibly not genuine - the speedo starts again at 100,000, and after this time it would be surprising if it had not gone past this at least once. (Although if it has the original engine, this would support it being genuine, and in RFS service it probably did very little mileage)

John

[SuperChad]

I've bee searching the web for a few diagrams of how the replacement section is fitted. Bolted/welded or both i imagine. Any ideas of where to find some pictures?

thanks
Dave

[crackers]

I've bee searching the web for a few diagrams of how the replacement section is fitted. Bolted/welded or both i imagine. Any ideas of where to find some pictures?

thanks
Dave

It's quite easy. You put her on a trailer, tow her to Adelaide and swap her with me for my Landy... which is now in lots of pieces and in nowhere near the condition of yours :angel:

[gromit]

I've bee searching the web for a few diagrams of how the replacement section is fitted. Bolted/welded or both i imagine. Any ideas of where to find some pictures?

thanks
Dave

The repair section is welded into place, the bolt hole is where the bulkhead bolts to the chassis.

This shows the top of the bulkhead being repaired.
Series IIA Bulkhead (http://www.eastcoastrover.com/Bulkhead.html)

'A' pillar on a Defender.
Landrover 110 A post replacement (http://www.markthewelder.co.uk/id49.html)

I'm sure there'll be some more pictures/tutorial out there somewhere.


Colin

[Cannon]

Congrats on your purchase.

I nearly bought that one myself. :-)

[ezyrama]

Congrats, looks good. IMHO. I would leave Big Bird yellow. It looks cool like that.
Cheers Ian

[SuperChad]

Hi all,
Chipping away at the yella terra. It runs ok, just needs a carby clean and a tune I think for starters. Next weeks job.

I have spent 2 days under the car with the gerni on 'mega mode' to get the red dirt, grease oil and grey clay combo off everything. Underneath her layer of foundation she looks pretty good. Jeez its hard to shift though some of it.

I pulled off the air cleaner to clean it up. Bit sludgey in the tray, thats ok.
Question, I am looking at the book and it show the lid comes off, and there is only one mesh filter. I appear to have two and the lid is well stuck.

How much can I pull this down, bit reluctant to deploy the big hammer so early in the romance.?

Thanks in advance

Dave

[JDNSW]

The assembly you have is correct - the 'extra' mesh does not rate a mention in the book as it is not removable. The top does come off, but may never have been off, and may be stuck with either paint or rust.

It is secured only by the thin nut in the middle. When removing it, watch out for the spacer under this, which is easy to lose, as it is loose once the top is off. Good idea to remove the top to give it a clean, as there is likely to be a buildup of dirt enough to restrict the flow a bit.

John

[gromit]

I don't think any of mine have had the spacer !

There is a cork gasket between the filter & the middle section, looks like yours has broken away and a small section is stuck on the filter.
Don't think that you'll easily replace this, maybe silicon the broken bit back into place.

I've managed to remove the top of all of mine but some put up a bit of a fight. As John mentioned, the nut is the only thing holding it in place but it tends to stick onto the middle section.


Colin

[SuperChad]

Hi all,
Well the adventure continues.
Got the air filter apart and all cleaned up thank you.

Today I decided to replace all the diff oils and gbox etc.
All went easily enough. I was quite pleased with the fact that the swivel housings had not shown any sign of leakage, then I found why. The Drivers side housing was empty, ok it can't leak if its empty but....

Refilled them both and the DS is already dripping.
Scanning the forums it appears the grease idea that was in my old Defender way back has been canned. I'd like to try that Penrite semi fluid stuff, easy fix but it probably not the right thing to do.

New seal I guess. I see there is a split seal available from some vendors, certainly would be easier. Seeing as this car won't be a high milage unit it might be more than adequate to do the easy fix.
How hard is it too do the seal properly??? Is it a big job, looks like the steering arm etc needs to come out as well, is this a press fit etc.

Thanks all

Dave

[JDNSW]

At minimum, you have to remove the ball from the axle housing. Not a big job, only need to undo a few bolts; except that to do this you need to disconnect the track rod and drag link, and the brake hose (which means bleeding the brakes). And then find that the assembly you are removing is very heavy and awkward.

The proper way to do it is to disassemble the whole setup, renewing bits as necessary as you go. A lot bigger job, but easier. And a better result.

I have used the split seals but I am not enthused about them. If you go that way, at the very least you should check the swivel preload, as free play on the swivel allows the seal to move away from the ball, and hence to leak.

John

[Homestar]

Johns way is by far the best as you will be able to fix anything else that is wrong along the way, but IMO there is nothing wrong with a tube of one shot in each swivel housing. Yes, opinions are divided, but I've got one shot in one of my vehicles and oil in the other - both have done heaps of KM without issue. The Rangie got one shot after the seals started leaking - they don't now and haven't for years.

This is the sort of stuff I mean if you haven't used it before - http://www.paddockspares.com/stc3435-one-shot-grease.html. There are several different brands on the market.

Depends on what you're after at the end of the day.

[30t of coolness]

Was out with the daughter for a drive today when I saw your vehicle. (Hard to miss it really) If you need parts or even just a chat , just stop in at Kooty , top of the hill near the ugly fence. Doug

[SuperChad]

Thanks Doug,
I'll pop in over the weekend.

Dave

[SuperChad]

Thanks Doug,

I'll pop in over the weekend.

Dave

[SuperChad]

Hi all,
A bit of bi lateral dyslexia above, sorry about that.

Anyway the project moves on.
Whilst waiting for my friends mig welder to arrive, (rust repairs) I have had a bit of look at the crazy wiring in the car.
It appears there is a lot of 'left over' QLD RFS wiring and relays just taped and stuffed into various places. I'll work my way through and take it all out.
Pulled out the instruments panel and its a bit of a mess with extra bits of wire going here and there. Looks like the mice must have been hungry at some time as there are bits of insulation chewed off behind there. Another job to tidy it up.

Question, what is this thing screwed to the wall behind the instruments.

I want to do a partial re-wire and make it all looks bit more organised. At this stage the headlights, parkers and indicators work at the front, and thats about it.
Nothing at the back, probably just a wire gone bung somewhere.

It doesn't appear to have a reverse lamp. Did they have one? Switch activated off the gearbox I suppose.


Thanks Team

Dave

[gromit]

Item pictured is a voltage regulator.

148876 | Voltage Regulator S3 (behind dash) (http://www.paddockspares.com/148876-voltage-regulator-s3-behind-dash.html)


Colin

[JDNSW]

As gromit says, it is a voltage stabiliser that provides 10v (average, actually switches on and off) for the temperature and fuel gauges.

Reversing lights were optional equipment on Series 2a Landrovers, and were rarely, if ever, fitted until they became mandated by ADRs (during S3 production). A few were retrofitted later, rarely with the factory optional equipment. The reverse light switch is a push switch mounted in a hole on the back upright of the bracket that holds the gear lever ball mount. There may be a hole for it on your bracket, but most likely not.

John

[SuperChad]

Hi all,
I am having a great time fiddling with the giant canary.
Lots done today, plenty more to do.

Whilst underneath and gazing into the abyss I spotted this.
There is a 'Fuel Pump' switch on the dash, which perplexed me but this is it.
It is currently de-tached as only the drivers side tank is plumbed in.
What was the purpose of this little pump? Is it an Army fit? or later. Would it be used to relay the passenger side fuel to the drivers tank?

The plan is to take the rusted passenger tank out and get it repaired eventually.


Thanks as always.

Dave

[Dinty]

Without actually seeing the vehicle, it has been fitted by a previous owner, possibly the fuel changeover switch (brass tap fitted to the seatbox RHS near handbrake lever) was faulty and they had plumbed in that pump to take fuel from ? the LHS tank, or did it have another aux tank fitted elsewhere??, cheers Dennis

[JDNSW]

Army setup was a manual changeover tap on the front of the seat box, and there was also a changeover switch to swap the gauge between tanks.

John

[SuperChad]

Thanks guys,
I think I'll temporarily remove the passenger side tank until after I get her passed for a RWC. And seeing as I will on,y be putting around town and not going to far I will be able to survive on one tank for a fair while.

Still chipping away, or keeps getting in the way of my progress though.

I appear to have a fairly substantial oil leak from the 'hand brake drum' . Well thats where the drip falls from, the nice clean gear oil I replaced in the gearbox and transfer case.
I assume its coming from the transfer case output shaft area.
Is the seal shown in a parts drawing easy to replace? Is it a case of just remove the handbrake components, flange etc and work my way back to the seal?

This little leak is a bit too much for the rego man i think.

Thanks team.

Dave

[JDNSW]

.........

I appear to have a fairly substantial oil leak from the 'hand brake drum' . Well thats where the drip falls from, the nice clean gear oil I replaced in the gearbox and transfer case.
I assume its coming from the transfer case output shaft area.
Is the seal shown in a parts drawing easy to replace? Is it a case of just remove the handbrake components, flange etc and work my way back to the seal?

This little leak is a bit too much for the rego man i think.

Thanks team.

Dave

More or less - a workshop manual will help, but I can't think of any real problems that will arise. However, the seal failure may have been caused in part by lack of preload on the output bearings and/or a groove in the sealing surface on the output flange.

A couple of perhaps obvious points, which may not be that obvious if you haven't done it before.

1. First step, drain the T/C, or you'll have a lot more oil on the shed floor!

2. The nuts holding the handbrake drum are on captive bolts - they will feel as if you might lose them, but you won't - obvious once you get the drum off. Or you can remove the drum with the output flange after removing the big nut in the middle.

3. slack off the brake adjuster.

John

[Aaron IIA]

With the handbrake off and gearbox in neutral, can you wobble the handbrake drum at all? If you can, you have insufficient preload on the transfer case bearings. Adjust this first when you have the back of the transfer case apart.

Aaron

[SuperChad]

Hi all,

Moving along and still having fun!

I've been spending some time trying to get the timing sorted. Its running pretty rough. New plugs, points, rotor, cap. Carby has been stripped down and cleaned out.
Today I put the timing light on it and it was out a bit. I undid the clamp bolt etc on the distributor but it wouldn't move. After rotating the engine so the rotor button is pointing at No.1 cylinder as per the book I undid the 3 bolts in the triangle plate and out it came.
Seized badly I pulled it all don, cleaned, bit of lube and reassembled.

Problem is when I put the distributor back in place it does not seem to go in 'deep' enough to engage the drive dog. I bolt it all down and can still turn the rotor by hand!.
Not sure what going on here. I followed the instructions in the manual, I can't work out whats not happening here.

Any ideas?

thanks
Dave

[Wolfman_TWP]

Distributor may need to be rotated by 180 degrees. I had the same issue when I reinstalled a new one in my shorty.

Wolf

[SuperChad]

Thanks Wolf,

It all seems a bit weird, I'll have another go at it tomorrow.
I may now need to wind the engine around until the timing marks line up on the front pulley etc to guarantee TC on cylinder 1.

Way outside my comfort zone once the timing fairy starts sitting on my shoulder.

Dave

[Homestar]

Once you have the dizzy sorted - I haven't had issues with this before - they should rop straight in - make sure your point gap is set spot on first, that will make a big difference to how well it runs. Don't guess, use a feeler gauge. After that, use a multi meter or test light to set the static timing - don't worry about a timing light yet, use that to fine tune it once you have it close. The procedure for static timing should be in the book, but sing out if you need a description of how to do it.

[SuperChad]

Hi all and thanks for the tips,

Well I sorted it. Got out there this morning and started from scratch again.
Set the tappets, and a dab of Liquid Paper on the front pulley timing notch makes it much easier to see.

Cylinder 1 on TDC, marks line up, but the drive dog on the engine is 90deg out of position.

Sit down and re-read the book a few times. Then I spot it in the Brooklands manual. The drive dog adaptor! Where the hell is it?
Sure enough when I pulled out the dizzy by undoing the 3 bolt adaptor plate it fell off to the side out of view.

All back together and the timing is not too bad now. At least it will accelerate without cutting out, spluttering or backfiring. Not perfect but close.

In the manual it states to set the idle to 500rpm and have the 'vernier adjustment' fully advanced before setting the distributor position. I assume fully advanced means the nut is wound fully in?

Thanks again,

Dave

[crackers]

I'm probably a bit behind where you are now but I'd like to second babicat's comments. Pull the dizzy, set the points using feeler gauges, then reinstall. With only a little bit of care, the dwell angle will virtually always be correct and it's a lot easier to do on the bench than in the car. It has the advantage that you don't change the timing this way.

Note: The timing is affected by the dwell angle so get it right first.

Buy a multi-meter to test it. That same multi-meter will also give you a tacho and that makes setting the mixture very easy (no need to listen for the rev change, just watch the needle, cheating I know but...)

You can time the thing using a timing light and just twisting the dizzy surprisingly easily and accurately, the vernier is just there to dial it in.

Interestingly, none of my three MGBs had a vernier, they were all timed by twisting the dizzy. My Hillman Minx had one though and it made fine tuning the timing out on the road very easy.

This sort of old school timing is very satisfying... once you get the hang of it (it can be frustrating before then).

[SuperChad]

Thanks guys,

Had a bit more of a fiddle this morning. It has a few issues, a slight miss just off idle being the main one.

I followed the book as best i could. Got the idea as smooth and close to 550rpm as i could, 500 too rough. It tended to idle better with the idle mix screw wound back in 1/2 a turn.

The dwell angle was measured at 56?, only one out, pretty good.
With the vernier fully advanced as per the book and the idle steady and (i think its correct) the vacuum line connected I have settled, for the time being a wee bit more advanced than the 6? 95 octane mark. This seemed to be the best spot for reducing the initial splutter off idle and clean revving under load. Under load its great. I've using high and low range accelerating up the steep hills in my paddocks, goes nicely here.

Any ideas on the off idle splutter and carry on. I have stripped the carry down and cleaned all the jets etc.

thanks

Dave

[JDNSW]

After putting up with this for years, I had to replace the coil when it failed completely. No more splutter off idle since then!

Not saying it is your coil, but I suggest it could be something a bit dodgy in the ignition, from ignition switch right through to plugs.

John

[Phil B]

Could be the coil as John said.
It could also be an intermittent condenser or bad connections to it or the points- only shows up at idle
You might want to consider electronic ignition- makes a huge difference IME.
Phil

[SuperChad]

Hi all,

After a short break we are back into the car full bore. Stripping all the paint out the interior at the moment before a good prime and respray.

I came across the original ID plate screwed to the firewall. I would really like to clean all the dark green paint off it and get it at least back to 'readable' status.

Any tips on getting it cleaned up with out destroying it?

Thanks all.

Dave

[Cobber]

I see why you call it Big Bird, but I like it :D

Well done, it looks really good. Look forward to reading about your (mis)adventures! :BigThumb:

[JDNSW]

Hi all,

After a short break we are back into the car full bore. Stripping all the paint out the interior at the moment before a good prime and respray.

I came across the original ID plate screwed to the firewall. I would really like to clean all the dark green paint off it and get it at least back to 'readable' status.

Any tips on getting it cleaned up with out destroying it?

Thanks all.

Dave

The colour and printing on the plate is anodising, which means that it should not be affected by paint stripper. But the anodised layer is very thin, so use of any abrasive or sharp tool is likely to damage the plate.

John

[SuperChad]

Thanks John,

Always a font of knowledge. I'll give it a go and hopefully uncover the original plate details.

The interior repaint is nearly finished, cut out and welded in new bits where there was some rust in the foot boxes and bottom of A pillar.

Time for the leak at the back of the transfer case to be fixed and hopefully get her registered soon.

Dave

[SuperChad]

Hi all,

2 processes with the paint stripper and like new.

Pretty good considering its nearly 50 yrs old.


Dave

[67hardtop]

PIC'S??

[JDNSW]

Hi all,

2 processes with the paint stripper and like new.

Pretty good considering its nearly 50 yrs old.


Dave

The anodising dye fades in sunlight, so a good way of preserving it is to coat it with a good thick layer of opaque paint!

John

[SuperChad]

Sorry gents,

trouble with upload last night. Upside down. I will reattach it sunny side up though.

Dave

[Phil B]

Sorry gents,

trouble with upload last night. Upside down. I will reattach it sunny side up though.

Dave



Brilliant!!:cool:
You are a braver man than I am.
Regards,