Crimping tool

[VladTepes]

Want to buy a decent one as I'll be using it for the Landy and the motorbike project.


I know little about the various styles available but a good ratchet crimper that will allow me to do the usual automotive cabling stuff, as well as Anderson powerpole crimps is what I need.


Please point me in the right direction.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I got away with one of these for many years:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/468.jpg

Then I graduated to one of these for the automotive style spade connectors etc (Much easier to use, better crimp, but less 'features' as above):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/469.jpg

For Heavy stuff I use one of these lug crimpers, realistically, if you only have a few connections to make, visit your local friendly auto elec, and throw a few bucks at him to make the crimps you need:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/470.jpg

If you are going to work on massive stuff, the above is also available in a hydraulic version... but I don't see you needing it.

Crimping is a mechanical process, but what actually happens in the larger hex style crimps, is the copper conductor cold welds together.

[DoubleChevron]

If you have a look on ebay you can now buy hydraulic crimpers quite cheaply. The issue is the dies they have only go down to 4mm....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/95226d1434460236-i-must-insane-p1170495.jpg

I'm sticking with this until such time as I can afford a quality crimper ..... soldering iron and heat shrink :)

seeya,
Shane L.

[scarry]

I got away with one of these for many years:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/468.jpg

Then I graduated to one of these for the automotive style spade connectors etc (Much easier to use, better crimp, but less 'features' as above):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/469.jpg

For Heavy stuff I use one of these lug crimpers, realistically, if you only have a few connections to make, visit your local friendly auto elec, and throw a few bucks at him to make the crimps you need:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/470.jpg

If you are going to work on massive stuff, the above is also available in a hydraulic version... but I don't see you needing it.

Crimping is a mechanical process, but what actually happens in the larger hex style crimps, is the copper conductor cold welds together.

We ONLY use the genuine utilux crimpers,they are the only ones that hold up and do the crimps correctly.
We also very rarely use the pre insulated spade and other types of crimp lugs as it is very difficult to make sure the lugs are crimped correctly.This is critical when they carry high currents.
If needed you can get insulators that slide along the wire and over the smaller lugs,instead of insulated lugs.

[Roverlord off road spares]

Jayar have 2 pages of crimpers.
Cheers,
Mario

Search crimper | Jaycar Electronics (http://www.jaycar.com.au/search'text=crimper&CSRFToken=3a07e672-a3fd-41ca-a04f-1f4fc9cdb8f8)

[towe0609]

I have a Toledo crimp set (http://www.elecspess.com.au/products/product/302018?category=XRCRAQPU&) and am very happy with it, especially the quick change of the dies. It does a neat job on the Econoseal J series connectors too. Looks like Rhino Tools (http://www.rhinotools.com.au/crimping-kits/quick-change-crimping-kit-7) offers the same product.

It will do the 50A Andersons, but you really need something larger - a dedicated tool about $20 on ebay.

[DoubleChevron]

I still don't have a lot of faith in the ratchet crimpers. To get a tight crimp you need the wire to be 100% matched size wise to the terminal your using otherwise they can go intermittent.... at least that's my experience. That's why I still solder everything.

Have any of you guys tried the hydraulic crimpers. 8ton crimpers are cheap these days.

8 TON Hydraulic Crimper Cable Wire Force Crimping Tool KIT 9 DIE 4mm 70mm | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8-Ton-Hydraulic-Crimper-Cable-Wire-Force-Crimping-Tool-Kit-9-Die-4mm-70mm-/121228206398?hash=item1c39c3a13e)

I imagine these would create a crimp equivelant to the factory crimps on our cars.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Tombie]

I have the basic, ratchet and hydraulic crimpers...

Fantastic gear - spend as much as you can on a quality unit... (get the best your budget allows)...


And like Scarry said - check and confirm your crimp - sometimes a second go is worth the effort...

[VladTepes]

I have a Toledo crimp set (http://www.elecspess.com.au/products/product/302018?category=XRCRAQPU&) and am very happy with it, especially the quick change of the dies. It does a neat job on the Econoseal J series connectors too. Looks like Rhino Tools (http://www.rhinotools.com.au/crimping-kits/quick-change-crimping-kit-7) offers the same product.

It will do the 50A Andersons, but you really need something larger - a dedicated tool about $20 on ebay.



I checked with the linked Toledo seller and they quoted $270 as a 'discounted' price from $320. They say it won't be the same as the Rhino one (listed at $110 plus $10 postage) given the price difference.



Supercheap Auto have it listed at $199.


Well I certainly won't be buying it from the first place ! Rhino certainly seems the better option !


I see Rhino also carry one with one less die and called their automotive kit. I assume this would have all I'd need?
http://www.rhinotools.com.au/crimping-kits/automotive-quick-change-crimping-kit
$90 so even better if it's suitable.




Towe - this the tool you mean? Anderson Plug Cable Battery LUG Crimp Crimping Tool With Ratchet Operation AU | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Anderson-Plug-Cable-Battery-Lug-Crimp-Crimping-TOOL-with-Ratchet-Operation-AU-/251979533563?hash=item3aab268cfb)


50A range it says - I don't plan on using such big gauge ones for the job I have (LED lights don't need anywhere near that current) but was looking at the 'smallest' power poles. Wonder what crimper is needed for those?


The more I look into this the more confusing it gets !

[DoubleChevron]

I checked with the linked Toledo seller and they quoted $270 as a 'discounted' price from $320. They say it won't be the same as the Rhino one (listed at $110 plus $10 postage) given the price difference.



Supercheap Auto have it listed at $199.


Well I certainly won't be buying it from the first place ! Rhino certainly seems the better option !


I see Rhino also carry one with one less die and called their automotive kit. I assume this would have all I'd need?
5 Die Quick Change Crimping Kit | Quality ratchet crimper (http://www.rhinotools.com.au/crimping-kits/automotive-quick-change-crimping-kit)
$90 so even better if it's suitable.




Towe - this the tool you mean? Anderson Plug Cable Battery LUG Crimp Crimping Tool With Ratchet Operation AU | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Anderson-Plug-Cable-Battery-Lug-Crimp-Crimping-TOOL-with-Ratchet-Operation-AU-/251979533563?hash=item3aab268cfb)


50A range it says - I don't plan on using such big gauge ones for the job I have (LED lights don't need anywhere near that current) but was looking at the 'smallest' power poles. Wonder what crimper is needed for those?


The more I look into this the more confusing it gets !

Unless it's a high heat area (eg: beside a turbo charger or exhaust manifold) why don't you just solder them :confused: I use a torch for 5+mm wires, and small superscope iron for smaller wires. Once soldered they are "done" for life as far as I can tell (unless it's a wire that moves a lot, if it does the wire will fatigue and break at the end of the soldered joint... eg: wiring plugs from engine -> firewall where there isn't enough flex in the wires). If it's somewher the wire is tied down and never moves ... heat shrink and solder IMO is a the most permanent fix out there :)

seeya,
shane L.

[towe0609]

Rhino certainly seems the better option !

I see Rhino also carry one with one less die and called their automotive kit. I assume this would have all I'd need?
5 Die Quick Change Crimping Kit | Quality ratchet crimper (http://www.rhinotools.com.au/crimping-kits/automotive-quick-change-crimping-kit)
$90 so even better if it's suitable.

Towe - this the tool you mean? Anderson Plug Cable Battery LUG Crimp Crimping Tool With Ratchet Operation AU | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Anderson-Plug-Cable-Battery-Lug-Crimp-Crimping-TOOL-with-Ratchet-Operation-AU-/251979533563?hash=item3aab268cfb)

50A range it says - I don't plan on using such big gauge ones for the job I have (LED lights don't need anywhere near that current) but was looking at the 'smallest' power poles. Wonder what crimper is needed for those?

The more I look into this the more confusing it gets !

Others with more experience that me should feel free to correct me. But in my limited experience, that tool is fine for the 50A andersons. It looks exactly like the one I have.

The non-insulated terminal die is fine for the 15A Andersons - you just need to be careful to orient the lug the right way round (don't try to crimp the side with the slit - it will just open up).

If it were me I'd buy a $20 tool for the Andersons and the Rhino Automotive Ratchet kit for $90 and see how you go - you can always pick up one of those hydraulic crimpers later. I cannot see any difference visually between that Rhino tool and the Toledo - even the markings on the case are identical.

[VladTepes]

I cannot see any difference visually between that Rhino tool and the Toledo - even the markings on the case are identical.

Indeed.

[Corgie Carrier]

This is the one I bought and I find it comfortable and easy to use for all the jobs I have done.

Narva Battery Terminal Crimper 50Amp Anderson Plug Crimp LUG Cable Tool 56513 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NARVA-BATTERY-TERMINAL-CRIMPER-50AMP-ANDERSON-PLUG-CRIMP-LUG-CABLE-TOOL-56513-/321085543473)

[BadCo.]

Others with more experience that me should feel free to correct me. But in my limited experience, that tool is fine for the 50A andersons. It looks exactly like the one I have.
.

The hexagonal ones are better. Those are the old style crimpers, all they do is pinch the crimp into the cable. Where as someone said earlier the hexagonal cold welds the copper.

[Toxic_Avenger]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/820.jpg

This Deutsch connector crimping tool is pornographic... but for approx $3K it would want to be :o

[Faceplant]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/820.jpg

This Deutsch connector crimping tool is pornographic... but for approx $3K it would want to be :o

Those are manufactured by DMC. Heavily used in the aircraft industry. The frame (handles) are or were around $400.00 Aussie and the turrets or dies $150.00 each depending on connector type. I picked up a frame for $50.00 from my local pawn shop a few years ago. Even bargained the guy down from $75.00 ;)

The best small crimper set I've seen (for my use anyway) is the Wattmaster WATK007. Mainly because the dies store in the handle and are held in by magnets so can be quick changed ~$200.00 though. I don't like the crimpers with the dies in the blow mould cases as they invariably don't stay closed and tip the dies nside your toolbag.

For the bigger connections the Cabac 5-50mm hex crimpers are the go but once again aren't cheap at around $300.00.

[Judo]

I went to start a thread, but this seems pretty relevant!

If I want to make a battery lead, what is the best way to go? Eg. Cranking battery to chassis.

Is indent type OK, or should I go hex?

With the hex types, I'm a bit confused by the sizing. I thought common cable sizes were even numbered in B&S.

Eg.
4 B&S = 21mm2
6 B&S = 13mm2
8 B&S = 8mm2
10 B&S = 5mm2

But all the dies that come with the hex type crimpers mention 6mm, 10mm, 16mm, 25mm. All in between?!! Odd numbered B&S? I don't want to be 1 size out on every crimp....

Please help. :)

[BadCo.]

Hey Judo, definitely go hex, but I am biased.

With the sizing you are mixing automotive and electrical sizes there.

Electrical cable is measured in mm2 for cross sectional area. Buggered if I know what B&S means haha. Must be some imperial rubbish!

If you go to an electrical wholesalers you can get aflex and a suitable crimp and the crimper. But they will likely charge you heavily for your off the street cash sale.

Do you have any sparky mates?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Mick_Marsh]

IIf I want to make a battery lead, what is the best way to go? Eg. Cranking battery to chassis.
Supercheap, Repco, Autobarn.
Off the shelf in varying lengths.

[Judo]

Hey Judo, definitely go hex, but I am biased.

With the sizing you are mixing automotive and electrical sizes there.

Electrical cable is measured in mm2 for cross sectional area. Buggered if I know what B&S means haha. Must be some imperial rubbish!

If you go to an electrical wholesalers you can get aflex and a suitable crimp and the crimper. But they will likely charge you heavily for your off the street cash sale.

Do you have any sparky mates?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app


B&S is Brown and Sharpe which is the same as AWG. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge

I can see some logic in it but it is an American standard since the 1800's, so probably some imperial rubbish. ;)

All the other sizes I mention are cross section areas.

I'm now hypothesising that the die sizes match the lug size which is slightly larger than the cable size? Eg. A 13mm2 cable goes in a 16mm2 lug? The diameter difference is only 0.5mm so maybe that is insignificant and that's how/why the sizing doesn't appear to align.

Seems legit. :D

Don't know any sparky's. I was thinking, "surely I'll need to make more various sizes leads in the future, I better buy a new tool".

[Toxic_Avenger]

I did all my battery cables with welding cable and suitably sized copper crimp lugs which I sourced from an electrical supplier.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/101985d1447575869-meet-my-90-share-adventure-20151115_180049.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/197704-meet-my-90-share-adventure-4.html#post2451892)

Even the big 70mm2 lugs were $2.80 each, so not really going to break the bank if you are making a single cable...

Welding cable (and any cable for that matter worth using), is measured in mm2 (millimeteres squared) Cross Sectional Area. Don't even bother with automotive cable rating, as they'll screw you on the copper and give you heaps of insulation and false hope / shattered dreams :p

You can roughly convert cable 'gauge' (equivalent to B&S), with a mm2 CSA, and use lugs that suit.
For example I used 13mm2 cable with 16mm2 lugs, worked fine.

I opted more towards lugs and post terminals, as they are more useful with a lot of the battery terminals out there, and can be easily stacked, removed etc.
If you can live with standard sizes, there are plenty of 'off the shelf' pre-made options at the usual auto stores too...

If you don't wish to buy a crimper, I managed to borrow one from a electrical supplier for a few crimps (did it in their car park), as my cruimper didn't go to the size I needed. Even a skookum hydraulic one can be had relatively inexpensively off ebay (<$50). Could always buy it and flip it afterwards.

[Judo]

Thanks Mitch. At $50 I was thinking of giving it a go. I really wasn't sure on the 13mm2 cable into a 16mm2 lug and whether that was a big no no or whether that's basically fine. I think I confused the issue talking about B&S. Oops. My bad.

The other thing was type of crimp - indent verses hex, but there are hex type crimpers for $40-$50 and hex definitely looks better if it is done properly. So I think it's decided. El-cheapo hex crimper and crappy DIY cables. :p

[Homestar]

Have any of you guys tried the hydraulic crimpers. 8ton crimpers are cheap these days.

8 TON Hydraulic Crimper Cable Wire Force Crimping Tool KIT 9 DIE 4mm 70mm | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8-Ton-Hydraulic-Crimper-Cable-Wire-Force-Crimping-Tool-Kit-9-Die-4mm-70mm-/121228206398?hash=item1c39c3a13e)

I imagine these would create a crimp equivelant to the factory crimps on our cars.

seeya,
Shane L.

I'll let you know in a few days... ;)

[Rick1970]

Got one of those ^^^.....seems to do the job ok, if a bit fiddley to use.

[Judo]

Did it arrive Gav?

[Homestar]

Not yet mate, expecting it any day. 'On or before the 21st Jan' according to fleabay.

[Ranga]

Got one of those ^^^.....seems to do the job ok, if a bit fiddley to use.

How do you mean fiddley? Do the dies stay put?

[Toxic_Avenger]

How do you mean fiddley? Do the dies stay put?

Probably the age old problem of getting a good crimp with only 2 hands.
Even with the bolt-cutter type, you need to keep the cable pushed deep into the lug, and then use both hands to close the crimping tool.
Same deal with the hydraulic ones, takes a number of pumps to get it to seat fully and compress the lug.

[Homestar]

Unless I'm actually doing the crimp in a vehicle - which I'm usually not with bigger stuff, I've always stuck the bottom handle of the crimper in the vice - my old one even has a tang on the handle just for this, so you only need one hand to operate the crimper and one can manage the lug and cable. ;)

Maybe that's secret Sparky business - I'll have to kill you all now...

[DoubleChevron]

Unless I'm actually doing the crimp in a vehicle - which I'm usually not with bigger stuff, I've always stuck the bottom handle of the crimper in the vice - my old one even has a tang on the handle just for this, so you only need one hand to operate the crimper and one can manage the lug and cable. ;)

Maybe that's secret Sparky business - I'll have to kill you all now...

My biggest problem is anything you want a good crimp on is usually hidden in an engine bay ... or your laying on your back looking up into a dashboard. No crimper known to man will get into there, let alone do a decent crimp..................... out comes the soldering iron :wasntme: :twisted:

seeya,
Shane L.

[Homestar]

My biggest problem is anything you want a good crimp on is usually hidden in an engine bay ... or your laying on your back looking up into a dashboard. No crimper known to man will get into there, let alone do a decent crimp..................... out comes the soldering iron :wasntme: :twisted:

seeya,
Shane L.

Yep, completely agree - I use my soldering irons a lot. The cripmer should be handy for the new job I do that I can install afterwards. This crimper I'm getting does from 4mm up, so not likely to need it under the dash I hope! :D

[Homestar]

Crimper has arrived. I'll see if I get time today to use it on a couple of different lugs and report back. It is about what I expected, comes in a blow moulded case with everything there, so hopefully it performs well.

[Rick1970]

, I've always stuck the bottom handle of the crimper in the vice
...


This. Sometimes getting a lug to stay put before you actually crimp when holding the crimper by hand can be a bit of a struggle. A bench vice is your friend.

[VladTepes]

Homestar how did that crimper turn out?

[Homestar]

Ah yes, forgot to report back... Sorry about that. I use it quite a bit and it works well. The supplied dies range from 4mm to 70mm (I think) - I mainly use the 16mm dies on Anderson plug terminals - it works a treat on these.

Everything packs into the supplied case well and doesn't go everywhere when you open it.

It's not A1 quality but certainly functional and worth the dollars IMO.

[Judo]

I bought one too (Gav was dragging his heals). ;) I had never used this style crimper before. I can see how a brand name workshop tool could be better however for home DIY and the price I think it's good.

I found if I crimp all the way down on the first go it leaves tabs on the side which are fixed by rotating it 90* and doing a second crimp. What's the correct method?

[VladTepes]

Thanks Lads I just bit the bullet and ordered one myself.
Cheers

[BadCo.]

I bought one too (Gav was dragging his heals). ;) I had never used this style crimper before. I can see how a brand name workshop tool could be better however for home DIY and the price I think it's good.

I found if I crimp all the way down on the first go it leaves tabs on the side which are fixed by rotating it 90* and doing a second crimp. What's the correct method?

File then heat shrink usually, but your way sounds good!

[kogvos]

Thanks Lads I just bit the bullet and ordered one myself.
Cheers
I think AULRO has cornered the market. I've grabbed one as well.