camping solar/battery setup.

[Don 130]

I want to get a battery and panel/s to charge it. I have a camper trailer in which to put the battery, but also want to be able to take the gear as a stand alone set up with either of our utes if the camper is not required. I want to be able to provide power to a 12volt fridge that uses max 2amp/hrs and also am string of led lights for campsite lighting. I've read through many of the threads here, but as I haven't aquired any of these items yet, I'm unsure of where to start with purchases. I think folding panels might make storage for travel easier, and a long cable to allow placing panels in the sun. Other than that, I'd like your advice and recommendations.
Thanks.
Don.

[loneranger]

You'll need a solar regulator between the panel and the battery. The thicker the cable you use the less voltage drop you'll get and consider a chain and padlocks to secure your solar panel when it is in use.

[weeds]

I have been fiddling with my setup for awhile.......

If you want it portable than most will say buy an off the shelf 'thumper' style.......seem to tick all the boxes but I reckon you can get better bang for your buck by putting it all together yourself.

Grab a plastic battery box
110amp AGM battery
Some heavy duty cable
Some Anderson plugs
A regulator separate to the solar panel mounted at the battery.....although off the shelf folding panel have a regulator glued to the panel
A means to secure on the camper and ute

Re: charging, will you be charging from the alternator? If so a dual battery isolator with Anderson plugs connecting it all

I have converted everything 12v I have to Anderson plug

When you say folding, are these the solid panel which are quite large or the flexible ones that are rely compact.

I reckon minimum 120w, 160w would be ideal.

The simplest would be all off the shelf......thumper type battery pack, solar ready to go, all should be plug and play, your fridge and light should just if in.

[Don 130]

I'm probably better to go bigger rather than just adequate. I'm sure there'll be laptop to recharge or something in the future, so 160w sounds good. I think folding/ solid as it can free stand out in the sun. I see some on ebay that have 9.000 cables. I take note of the security requirements. As for regulators, am I right in thinking MPPT regs are the best type? Also are mono crystalline the best type of panel?
Don.

[Ferret]

With folding solar panels my experience when buying recently is most (maybe all) have PWM regulators fitted even those that claim to have MPPT regulators.

A search around google will show the prevalence of fake MPPT regulators originating from China.

Fake MPPT solar regulators (https://www.google.com.au/search?q=fake+MPPT+solar&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:unofficial&client=seamonkey-a&gws_rd=cr&ei=T5rSVbvRIoHQmgX9l4HQBw)

[Eevo]

As for regulators, am I right in thinking MPPT regs are the best type?

yes but they cost more.

for the difference in price, you can buy more solar panels which will move for more overall.

[Don 130]

Interesting comments about the MPPT regs. While prowling ebay this morning I saw this ad (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2015-NEW-Model-12V-160W-Folding-Solar-Panel-Kit-Battery-Charge-Camping-Caravan-/271615393870?hash=item3f3d8a004e). and noted the warning on it
Some Seller are selling solar panels with "MPPT" controller at cheaper price on ebay. If you think that's real MPPT, think again!

So, going with the regulator that is supplied with the panel is generally ok? Does anyone have an opinion of the one one on the above ebay site and it's claimed superiority?
Don

[carlschmid2002]

Interesting comments about the MPPT regs. While prowling ebay this morning I saw this ad (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2015-NEW-Model-12V-160W-Folding-Solar-Panel-Kit-Battery-Charge-Camping-Caravan-/271615393870?hash=item3f3d8a004e). and noted the warning on it
Some Seller are selling solar panels with "MPPT" controller at cheaper price on ebay. If you think that's real MPPT, think again!

So, going with the regulator that is supplied with the panel is generally ok? Does anyone have an opinion of the one one on the above ebay site and it's claimed superiority?
Don

So with this controller can you connect straight to battery?

[Don 130]

So with this controller can you connect straight to battery?
I gather that is the idea Carl.
Don.

[DiscoMick]

So with this controller can you connect straight to battery?

We just use a Jaycar folding panels which came with a regulator and works fine. Have installed an Anderson plug connection to the camper battery. If you want easy portable just buy a battery box such as an Ark which comes pre-fitted with plugs and plug the solar into it. AGM batteries are better than lead acid for slow draw down and recharging. Size of panels depends on your usage. We are only running an Engel 40 litre fridge so find 80 watts sufficient. A portable jump starter can also power LED lights.

Sent from my GT-P5210 using AULRO mobile app

[Don 130]

This explanation (http://www.hemamaps.com.au/en/Tips-and-Tech/Camping-with-Solar-Power) of a system seems to make sense, and suggests Weeds calculation of 160w panel and 110 amp battery are spot on. Disco Mick and Weeds concur on AGM. An ARK battery box sounds good. My Aulro designed solar system is nearly fully planned. Does anyone have an opinion on which 160watt solar panel and why? The one I provided a link to in an earlier post looks ok to me.
Don.

[Cammo]

I run a Korr Lighting 165W folding panel. Only has a PWM reg, not an MPPT, but even after a big night on the battery (all my lights, stereo, in/out of fridge 100 times) I'm always well and truly charged by lunch. Comes in a half decent carry bag with a huge length of cable with andersons at both ends. Its frame is very sturdy but the latches to hold it shut (in the folded up position) are obviously cheap.

One day I'll treat it to some new latches and a decent MPPT reg.

[Don 130]

I ordered an AGM through the local tractor bloke. The battery delivery man over-ruled me and provided a Calcium-Calcium marine type, claiming that's the type I need. I can change it to what I originally ordered, but what do the experts think? which is best for 160W solar panel?

[Don 130]

I ordered an AGM through the local tractor bloke. The battery delivery man over-ruled me and provided a Calcium-Calcium marine type, claiming that's the type I need. I can change it to what I originally ordered, but what do the experts think? which is best for 160W solar panel?
Don.

[Homestar]

If it's only being used for your camping loads, then a deep cycle battery is your best bet. The one shown in the picture Looks like a hybrid cranking/deep cycle which is fine, but maybe just a bit of a compromise between a true deep cycle or a true cranking battery, but it will work fine.

[trout1105]

I usually run 2 x 12v fridges a 40l Primus at -10C as a freezer and an 80l Engel at -2C for the beer and food.
I have 2x Ark battery boxes with 110AH deep cell's with a 160W and a 120W solar panels that have absolutely NO problems keeping the power up to the fridges, lights, charging devices and even running 12v fans all night.
The batteries, Battery boxes and solar panels are pretty expensive to put together in the first place But they are Definitely worth getting.
I used to use a genset for power and I have only been using the solar setup for the last 3 years and I do still take a small 2KVA inverter with me "Just in Case" But I have rarely had to fire up the genset because the solar is just so reliable.

[Tombie]

Just went through this myself..

Now running:
Victron MPPT 75/15 with BT
Victron 30a Charger - for when on 240v
2x 120w panels
2x 100ah AGM

Even in the poor weather we are having around here at the moment - What does the sun look like [emoji41] - the system is well and truly above and beyond demand..

Demand being:
Water pump - shower, kitchen water etc
56l dual fridge - 2c fridge/-10c freezer side
All lighting (LED)
Stereo
TV and Media Player
Fan
Mrs Tombies 12v electric blanket - handy to take the chill off at the moment.

Best thing I've done to the camper I reckon [emoji6]

[DiscoMick]

This explanation (http://www.hemamaps.com.au/en/Tips-and-Tech/Camping-with-Solar-Power) of a system seems to make sense, and suggests Weeds calculation of 160w panel and 110 amp battery are spot on. Disco Mick and Weeds concur on AGM. An ARK battery box sounds good. My Aulro designed solar system is nearly fully planned. Does anyone have an opinion on which 160watt solar panel and why? The one I provided a link to in an earlier post looks ok to me.
Don.

My opinion is you can stress about the minute details of choosing one panel versus another, or just go for something reasonable. I bought one from Jaycar and another off ebay and both seem fine. The daughter just bought one of the 4WD Supercentre 160 watt panels and it works fine. Truthfully, solar panels are a mature technology now so most are fine.
Normal regulators do a good job.
As for batteries, I think AGMs are the best value now, but prices of lithiums are falling rapidly so in a couple of years they will be the way to go.
Don't sweat it too much.

[BathurstTom]

A question from a newbie. My simple understanding of of amperage is that amps equals watts divided by volts. Therefore a 180w panel at 12 volts would require a controller capable of handling around 12 amps, but most of the systems I see on Ebay seem to be 160w or 180w systems with only 10 amps. I ask this as a relative said he was having problems running his fridge on 12v. It was running ok on 24v. When I had a look at his 12v power wire, it was showing ~18v. When he looked at his 12v batterty, it was cooked. This was a 240w panels setup with only a 15 amp controller - which seemed to have died under the excess amperage. Am is missing something?

Tom.

[bee utey]

A question from a newbie. My simple understanding of of amperage is that amps equals watts divided by volts. Therefore a 180w panel at 12 volts would require a controller capable of handling around 12 amps, but most of the systems I see on Ebay seem to be 160w or 180w systems with only 10 amps. I ask this as a relative said he was having problems running his fridge on 12v. It was running ok on 24v. When I had a look at his 12v power wire, it was showing ~18v. When he looked at his 12v batterty, it was cooked. This was a 240w panels setup with only a 15 amp controller - which seemed to have died under the excess amperage. Am is missing something?

Tom.

Solar panel power ratings are usually only achieved at 25C cell temperature and an output voltage much higher than 12 volts. A typical solar panel output graph looks like this one:

123419

A standard regulator reduces the voltage but does not increase the current flow to the battery. So a 10A regulator should in theory cope but of course it all depends on the quality of the regulator. To increase the current to the battery you need a MPPT (maximum power point tracking) regulator. Again, quality is everything.

[Don 130]

Soon after my original post, the local autolec came around and I asked him about the battery and where I was putting it in the camper. (he had specified I get a deep cycle, which I asked for, but I was supplied the one shown) he took it and exchanged it for a deep cycle because the marine type would vent and that's no good stored in a cupboard in the camper.
I got an ebay 160 watt folding panel. All seems to be working well. Thanks to everyone who replied.
don.

[drivesafe]

Hi Don and sorry mate, but while your auto electrician was trying to do what he thought was the right thing for you, the problem is that if he deemed the location as being potentially dangerous for a Marine type battery, then it would be dangerous for any other type of lead acid battery as well.


It is a misunderstanding caused by INCORRECT wording being used when describing a battery as being a “FULLY SEALED” type.


A “FULLY SEALED” type battery means it will not spill electrolyte. It DOES NOT mean it will not gas.


All lead acid battery’s, Wet Cell ( Maintenance Free or open top ), Gel, AGM or the new Lead Crystal type, can and do gas in the wrong situation.


You are extremely unlikely to have a battery gas while driving, if charging directly from an alternator, because alternators DO NOT cause batteries to gas, unless the battery itself is faulty.


But DC/DC devices, 240vac battery chargers and Solar regulators can and commonly do cause batteries to be overcharged and this causes any type of lead acid battery to gas.

[ozscott]

Drive safe is there any studies or independent evidence that good quality Dc to DC chargers such as Red Arc do overcharge without internal failure?

Also if an alternator malfunctions won't it overcharge a battery but potentially at a much higher rate than a broken DC 2 DC would?

Just keen to know both sides of the equation.

Cheers

[drivesafe]

Hi Scott and an alternators can have a reg fail, causing what is known as a runaway voltage. While this did happen more in older vehicles, this is very VERY rare these days.


Whereas, with DC/DC devices, a number of manufacturers actually state not to run a fridge off any battery being charged by their DC/DC device.


This is because each time the fridge cycles on, there is a small voltage drop, which causes the DC/DC device to “think” the battery is lower than it actually is, but the DC/DC device goes to a full charge state.


This in itself would not be a problem except most DC/DC devices, have a timed duration each time they first go into their full charge ( bulk charge ) state.


A single Bulk Charge cycle is fine for most batteries, but continually applying the Bulk Charge to many batteries, when they are already fully charged, simply over charges them.


With 240vac battery charges, unfortunately it is a common occurrence for them to fail while charging a battery and they simply over charge the battery, and a very well known brand is renown for failing and cooking the battery it is charging.

[ozscott]

Thanks mate. Redarc are fine with my fridge running off the AGM while the dc2dc is pushing charge in (25 amp dc but goes up to 40 amp when battery is very low for a short time) so all.good in the hood. Cheers

[drivesafe]

Hi again Scott and I am not sure why you have fitted a DC/DC device.


There are no Land Rovers that needs a DC/DC device to charge an auxiliary battery


All Land Rovers are capable of charging auxiliary batteries, any number of auxiliary/house batteries, faster than an DC/DC set can do.


Fitting a DC/DC device to any Land Rover actually “chokes” the alternators ability to charge batteries.

[trout1105]

I have fitted heavy duty cabling from my cranking battery to an Anderson plug at the rear of the truck, Fused at both ends of course.
I then connect 2x 110AH deep cells and 2x 12v fridges to the Anderson outlet when I am travelling and the alternator has NO problems keeping the batteries topped up AND the fridges running.
When I set up camp I connect the fridges to the batteries and charge the batteries via the Solar panels, This seems to work well for Me.
I only have the fold out Solar Panels and Not a fixed panel on the truck as I prefer to park in the shade But it is not too difficult to set up the fold outs and move them a couple of times a day.

[Don 130]

Thanks Tim, I'll have to consider a venting system a change to the battery's location.
Don

[Vern]

I have the same setup as you trout1105, charges 4 batteries though, no issues what so ever.

[123rover50]

Hi again Scott and I am not sure why you have fitted a DC/DC device.


There are no Land Rovers that needs a DC/DC device to charge an auxiliary battery


All Land Rovers are capable of charging auxiliary batteries, any number of auxiliary/house batteries, faster than an DC/DC set can do.


Fitting a DC/DC device to any Land Rover actually “chokes” the alternators ability to charge batteries.

I was told I need a DC to DC device as well.
PM sent.
Keith

[ozscott]

Hi again Scott and I am not sure why you have fitted a DC/DC device.


There are no Land Rovers that needs a DC/DC device to charge an auxiliary battery


All Land Rovers are capable of charging auxiliary batteries, any number of auxiliary/house batteries, faster than an DC/DC set can do.


Fitting a DC/DC device to any Land Rover actually “chokes” the alternators ability to charge batteries.
Thanks mate. Disimiliar batteries and a built in MPPT and on long trips the ability to charge my big AGM like my smart charger at home ...ie to maximum not just close to max. I understood that lead acid and AGM required slightly different charging profiles and voltages. Added to this, without the dctodc the alternator supplies both as though the 2 batteries were one big battery. I know the alternator will do a good job but i like the idea of maximising AGM battery life and getting a really well charged AGM on long trips.

Cheers

[DiscoMick]

An alternator makes at least 80 amps but a dc to dc is usually limited to maybe 25-35 amps. The cabling between my start and auxiliary is fused to 60 amps. Adding a dc to dc would reduce the charge flowing to the auxiliary.

[ozscott]

That's the falacy mick about the alternator argument...even a modestly charged battery will not accept the big amperage that an alternator is capable of putting out. Battery would have to be critically low (Where you are running it so low you are reducing battery life) to accept big amps for more than a few seconds. Besides the RedArc I have can draw 35amps when the battery is low. Believe me the 25amp/35amp DC2DC has nil problems keeping up with a 110ah deep cycle AGM... If you flatten your AGM like you shouldn't and only ever use the vehicle for 10 min drives to the shops then the alternator would be better...

What some people fitting DC2DC don't get is the need to use big cabling to the DC2DC unit. Red Arc has a good guide about that on their web site. I went thicker again.

Cheers

[DiscoMick]

That's the falacy mick about the alternator argument...even a modestly charged battery will not accept the big amperage that an alternator is capable of putting out. Battery would have to be critically low (Where you are running it so low you are reducing battery life) to accept big amps for more than a few seconds. Besides the RedArc I have can draw 35amps when the battery is low. Believe me the 25amp/35amp DC2DC has nil problems keeping up with a 110ah deep cycle AGM... If you flatten your AGM like you shouldn't and only ever use the vehicle for 10 min drives to the shops then the alternator would be better...

What some people fitting DC2DC don't get is the need to use big cabling to the DC2DC unit. Red Arc has a good guide about that on their web site. I went thicker again.

Cheers
Yes, I know. I actually have both the alternator and an 80 watt rooftop solar running to the start battery. It is then wired to a Traxide and then to the auxiliary using heavy wire and 60 and fuses. I can't imagine any advantage from adding a dc-dc.

[Eevo]

The false argument is that an alternator will only charge a battery to 80%

[ozscott]

The false argument is that an alternator will only charge a battery to 80%
What percentage does a d2 charge a deep cycle AGM battery to?

Cheers

[Tombie]

Well based on the ones in the D2 here and a recent test.. we had full charge in both.....

Silver Calcium and Many recent AGMs charge just fine on the same connection...

But... if people insist on DCDC products at the prices they are then hey....
If I was laying down that coin I'd stretch to a system where the batteries would be LiFePo4.
80ah / less weight and no DCDC unit.

[ozscott]

Optima know AGM batteries.

Charging your AGM Battery | Support | OPTIMA(R) Batteries (https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/support/charging/charging-agm-battery)

As they say alternators are not chargers. It is very important if your AGM is run down to take it out and hook up to a charger ....or leave it in the vehicle and have the dc to dc (...charger...) look after it. And per all AGM manufacturers 14.7 volts is the preferred AGM charge voltage . A D2 alt doesn't charge at that. I think the point is an alternator will do fine and keep the battery full however if you want max life and max amp hours in the tank of an AGM then Dctodc has a place.

Also I was lucky as I needed a good auto isolator and I have a contact where I could get the red arc dc to dc at cost so for me it was a no brainer.

The new model of mine does LIPO also.

Cheers

[Eevo]

Well based on the ones in the D2 here and a recent test.. we had full charge in both.....

Silver Calcium and Many recent AGMs charge just fine on the same connection...

But... if people insist on DCDC products at the prices they are then hey....
If I was laying down that coin I'd stretch to a system where the batteries would be LiFePo4.
80ah / less weight and no DCDC unit.


i like lipo's but how do you do cell balancing?

[Vern]

I have had my optimas down to 6.5volts, and they have bounced back fine just from my alternator which only puts out 13.7volts! Have had these batteries for close to 5 years now.

[bee utey]

LiPo is not the same chemistry as LiFePO4. LiFePO4 vehicle batteries usually have cell balancing circuitry built in to be a drop in fit for vehicle use. Resting voltage is 12.8 to 13.2 volts on those (3.2 to 3.3 volts per cell), ideal for stressed 12V systems.

[drivesafe]

That's the falacy mick about the alternator argument


Hi Scott and sorry mate, but DiscoMick’s post is spot on the money.


And as to your claim that there is a about how alternators charge, well you are correct about the fallacy, but it is the exact opposite of what you are claiming, as Eevo pointed out.


The problems associated with cranking batteries ( and auxiliary batteries ) not being fully charged by an alternator has nothing to do with some fictitious claim that the alternator is the cause, but is actually because the vehicle is not driven long enough after each start.


Adding a DC/DC device to the limited charging time does not resolve the problem, rather than fix the problem, it can actually exacerbate it, if the auxiliary battery is in a low state of charge in the first place.


In this type of situation, you are correct, eventually, the DC/DC device will, after many short drive, bring the auxiliary battery up to a fully charged state, but a Land Rover alternator will have the auxiliary battery fully charge in the same situation but with much few short drives required to do so.


Next, you posted up that “all AGM battery manufacturers 14.7v is the preferred AGM charge voltage”. This is not correct and is also a misunderstanding of what the manufacturers are stating.


The 14.7v quoted, is not the required voltage needed to be able to fully charge the battery, the 14.7v is the MAXIMUM SAFE voltage that “MANY” not all, AGMs can tolerate, above which the battery can be damaged


Unlike your claim that this is for all AGMs, again, Odyssey and Optima batteries are just two AGMs batteries that can be SAFELY charged will voltages in excess of 15v.


I noticed you quoted info from the Optima battery site, but you only picked the sections that supported to your argument. Had you read all the info you would have seen that Optima specifically states “Alternator 13.65 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit.”


So even if Land Rover alternators worked at a much lower voltage, they would still be within the required charging range of an Optima, which is one of the most common batteries using as an auxiliary battery in Land Rovers.


You also raised the point about having dissimilar batteries. This is another one of these myths used to make people think there is a problem with charging dissimilar batteries at the same time, with an alternator.


If you believe the crap they spin, saying you need to separate batteries to charge them properly. Well this is only the case if you have Lithium auxiliary/house batteries.


But when all the batteries are lead acid the batteries, be it AGMs, Gel, Wet Cell or the new Lead Crystal batteries, alternators charge each battery at it’s optimum charge voltage and current.


And here is a fact for you that most people are unaware of. When charging with a DC/DC device or a battery charger, if you set the maximum voltage to no more than 14.4v, can charge mixed battery types at the same time as well.


There is a lot more to this subject, and while you may be happy with what you have, you do NOT have the optimum charging setup.


But when it comes to the optimum Land Rover dual battery system, there is nothing better than one of my setups, and they cost a lot less than a DC/DC setup yet give far better performance.

[drivesafe]

I was told I need a DC to DC device as well.
PM sent.
Keith
Hi Keith and I hope the info above will be of some help to you.
Call me when you are ready.

[ozscott]

Thanks Drivesafe. I will leave it there and appreciate your detailed arguments. I wasn't being selective buy maybe guilty of not reading the whole article. I know you get passionate about your view of DC to DC versus alternator charging using an isolator on this and other sites which is not a criticism. I really wonder though in our age of people who are quick to litigation or consumer affairs type complaints why major companies like Red Arc are not worried and why there has been no hint of consumer affairs getting involved (as they did with some electronic rust prevention systems). It would be great to get a Red Arc rep to argue the point. As a matter of interest have you contacted their excellent tech dept and asked them why they are selling things that reduce charging rate and battery life compared to an alternator and sought their response. I mean these aren't Brock Polarisers.

Cheers

[Tombie]

Easy...

The DCDC systems work as advertised unlike ERP Systems.

On on Vehicles like modern Hilux etc are a solution to a crappy charging system design.
Not necessarily the ultimate, or most cost effective, but they meet a criteria.

Same argument could be had for Land Cruiser "King off the Road" etc. hardly the a true statement [emoji6]

[drivesafe]

Hi again Scott, the problem is not one product or one company, almost the entire industry operates in the same manor.


The problem is that Australia has some of worst consumer protect services of any modern country.


As far as contacting any company goes, I would rather keep on giving people the correct info and they can then make their own decisions, based on real facts, as to what is going to give them the best results for what they want to do.

[ozscott]

Tombie I understand your point however Red Arc were making and selling DC2DC well and truly before modern smart alternators and they talk about AGM batteries needing such devices. Tim no worries people can read your helpful posts and web site info from manufacturers of DC2DC/4WD auto elecs etc and at the end of the day doing the best that they can (as I did) they lay down their hard earned on what they want.

Cheers

[Tombie]

It's hard to research accurately out there...
Many seem to present generic / outdated or bias information.

Some present solutions that are effective but not efficient.

Some just take the easy approach (some installs are very forgiving of lower quality installs)

It's a mine field. [emoji41]

Btw - our D2 and D4 reach 12.6v (rested) in a 30 minute drive [emoji6] and that's because of the inrush capability [emoji41]

[drivesafe]

Easy...

The DCDC systems work as advertised unlike ERP Systems.

On on Vehicles like modern Hilux etc are a solution to a crappy charging system design.
Not necessarily the ultimate, or most cost effective, but they meet a criteria.

Same argument could be had for Land Cruiser "King off the Road" etc. hardly the a true statement [emoji6]
Hi Tombie and it’s ironic that you should post that up.


In the middle of last year, when the first of the new Prados arrived, I got a call from two different ex Land Rover owners, who had just purchased new Prados and both wanted to fit a dual battery kit to them.


Neither was all that impressed with having to fit a DC/DC device, as they were recommended to have to do.


They phoned within a week of each other and I explained to both, that I had not had a chance to study the new Toyota alternator operation and as such, did not know if my system would work as required.


Both did not care and offered to test my isolators in their new Prados.


A deal was struck, where if the isolators did not work, they could return them and I would refund the their money in full. all I asked for was that they give me some feedback.


With in a few weeks, both had contacted me and told me their setups were working fine. They were happy and so was I.


One of them posted up his findings on a Prado forum.


Then a short time after this, a guy with new Pardo, fitted with a DC/DC device to charge his Optima Yellowtop, posted up that but while the DC/DC device was looking after his optima, but because of his short diving usage of his Prado, his cranking battery was around the 12.25 12.4v each morning before starting. Thats 60% to 80% SoC


He posted up some enquiries about my isolators and we came to an arrangement where he would test one of my isolators in his Prado.


Over the past 6 months he had been monitoring both of his batteries, so this would be a good test to see how my isolator compared with his DC/DC device.


Again, still with a limited knowledge of how the new Prado alternators worked, I guestimated that he would probably see an improvement in rested state of his cranking battery in about two to three weeks.


After a couple of weeks, his cranking battery’s rested voltage was 12.5v to 12.65v and this is 90% to over 95%.


He was also very happy with the short recharge times after he used his Optima.


He has since had the opportunity to see how my isolator improves his usage while camping and he was ecstatic at the improvement he got over the way the DC/DC device worked.


The point here is that even low operating voltage vehicles like the new Toyotas are benefiting from my gear in ways no DC/DC device can offer, so with the higher average voltages that all Land Rovers operate at, there is just no reason for fitting a DC/DC device in any Land Rover.


I am also conducting tests in the new Tiguan, which has Stop/Start function plus the alternator turns off when accelerating, and I now have quite a few Amaroks fitted with my isolators.


Not only are the auxiliary batteries charging well in these vehicles, but the reverse charging feature my systems give, means that the vehicle’s own operating systems are benefitting from having my setup in them.


This means as new Land Rovers come out with similar Stop/Start operations, again, my isolators will give benefits no DC/DC device has a hope of achieving. And note I already have a couple of new Range Rover Sports fitted with my isolators and all is working well.

[drivesafe]

Tombie I understand your point however Red Arc were making and selling DC2DC well and truly before modern smart alternators and they talk about AGM batteries needing such devices. Tim no worries people can read your helpful posts and web site info from manufacturers of DC2DC/4WD auto elecs etc and at the end of the day doing the best that they can (as I did) they lay down their hard earned on what they want.

Cheers
Sorry that is not correct. Not only did both Land Rover ( first ) and Toyota ( a few years later ) have Smart alternators for years before Redarc had their first DC/DC device, a number of other vehicle makes, like Nissan, also had introduced Smart Alternators before this.

As for DC/DC sellers saying you need a DC/DC device to charge an AGM properly. Try reading the info from the REAL battery experts, the battery manufactures themselves, and see how their info differs from that supplied by people trying to sell you something you never needed in the first place.

[DiscoMick]

All I can say is my experience is that my auxiliary battery almost always reads 12.7 resting and I never have any problems starting. No need for a dc-dc.

[ozscott]

Sorry that is not correct. Not only did both Land Rover ( first ) and Toyota ( a few years later ) have Smart alternators for years before Redarc had their first DC/DC device, a number of other vehicle makes, like Nissan, also had introduced Smart Alternators before this.

As for DC/DC sellers saying you need a DC/DC device to charge an AGM properly. Try reading the info from the REAL battery experts, the battery manufactures themselves, and see how their info differs from that supplied by people trying to sell you something you never needed in the first place.
Thanks Tim. Which experts do you recommend and I will certainly read what they have to say on the point. Cheers

[drivesafe]

Hi again Scott and just do a google of any battery brand and go from there.

A tip, for you and anyone, looking for accurate battery info, do NOT use the info you get from battery "SELLERS", you need to go to the battery "MANUFACTURER'S" web sites.

Like most thing in this trade, even some of the battery SELLERS find the truth as nothing more than something that gets in the way of a sale!