D4 3.0 Intermittent faults/warnings

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

Hi

I've been having a few fault/warning messages come up on the car over the last few months. They don't hang around, and don't inhibit driving or performance. Normally, I'll start the car first thing in the morning. Mostly, I don't get any faults, but sometimes I'll get a "Transmission Fault" or "Passenger Airbag Fault" plus orange triangle. Sometimes restarting will clear it straight away, other times I'll reverse down the driveway and restart, and then it clears.
These faults will normally occur on cold mornings (we've just moved to Perth from sunny Qld, so winter's a new experience!).

Yesterday, the glow plug light appeared (up the top of the info centre display which is a little odd, because I thought the actual glow plug light was on the bottom of the main display). There were no warnings in the 'Show Warnings' menu. It didn't go away despite numerous restarts, and leaving the car for extended periods. I did a hard reset last night, and that cleared it.

This morning, there is a "Check Engine" light on the dash (it is the orange motor symbol). It has not cleared, and again there are no warnings on the screen or in the menu.

Other 'electrical items' that may or may not be related:
The RH front park light (LED lights) have stopped working about 2-3 weeks ago, during the time this has been occurring. Haven't tried to trouble-shoot this as yet.

It's a D4 MY10 3.0 SE. I have an ARB bullbar fitted with their standard lights, plus a traxide DBS. The battery was replaced about 2yrs, 9mths ago.

Any help/similar experiences/fixes would be greatly appreciated!

I'm in Perth, so can try and get to a dealer/mechanic (although haven't found a 'good one' yet!)...

Thanks.

Rob

[the_preacher1973]

Blown bulbs can definitely cause strange electrical problems with these cars so I'd start with fixing them first.

If that doesn't bring you any joy, check the battery as low voltage can also cause various electrical issues.

If a had a blown bulb on my Subaru it used to give me a blown bulb error message. Low voltage would result in the "Chg" light being illuminated.

When I have low voltage in the D3 it gives me a transfer case fault (Low Range not available" or something like that). Personally I find the Subaru method much easier to understand.

[LRD414]

My money would be on the battery.

Scott

[JamesH]

While Ive had no experience with the issue from what Ive read I'd change the replace the blown globe and see what happens.

If it is the battery (or one of the batteries) you'd be entitled to be annoyed at needing a new one after a bit less than three years. Drivesafe has explained many times how the Traxide system should prolong the life of the batteries.

What sort of use does the car get? Mainly short trips with longish periods of sitting idle, eg are you a Fifo? Have you taken it on a few camping trips where youve given both batteries a good draining by not moving for a bit? Do you ever top up using a battery charger?

When you say you have no found a good service outfit in Perth, do you mean you've been let down by the usual mobs, or have you not had the opportunity to check any out?

Good luck with it.

[Graeme]

I suspect a wiring issue, perhaps a bad earth. I would start with discovering why the parker LEDs aren't working in case their failing to work is connected to the other failings. The headlight clusters have multiple earth supplies.

[LandyAndy]

First thing I would be tracking is that LED connection to the loom.If it was a botched install with a "scotch lock" connector it may be affecting the can bus signal.
As others say,tail lights and also the brake pedal switch also cause caos.
JRT,Jordan Rover Tech have a good reputation,especially with the newer vehicles.
There are a couple that cant be named that should not be used,can only be revealed via private message due to the website name/shame rules.
Andrew

[ADMIRAL]

My money would be on the battery.

Scott

Mine too !!

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

Did a bit of looking around last night when I got home (in the cold & rain)...
The engine warning light had gone out later in the day (after being on for a large proportion of it).

1. Turned ignition on (didn't try to start it yet). No warning lights, symbols etc.
2. Traxide battery light was flashing. ~12.2V on the 2nd battery. ~12V on the main battery (low!).
3. Started car - 14.5V at both batteries (alternator working ok).
4. Noticed that there was a 'clicking' coming from the fuse box. Eventually managed to note that the 3 relays at the back of the fuse box that supply heated seats and heated washer water were all clicking intermittently. Roughly every 20secs, they'd 'click'. Weird. I don't have heated seats, or wash water.
5. Removed both batteries, to make sure there were no worn/loose wires/earths anywhere that I could see. A bit hit and miss, I know, but probably about the limit of my electrical testing ability! Couldn't find anything obvious. Although I do think that the negative terminal clamp on the main battery is a bit loose, even when tightened as much as possible. Probably more to come on this later (refer previous post by SBD4 that I think is relevant to me - here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/211155-d4-push-button-start-issue-new-post.html )
6. Put both batteries back. Tightened everything up.
7. Checked RH park (side) light. Noticed that they weren't off, just very faint. LH side lights work fine. Partially removed light (can't get it all the way out b/c of my bullbar). Lights came on. Played with plug into light (removed, sprayed some cleaner around). Lights work fine. Looks like some sort of loose connection, but not sure where. I installed the bullbar etc with a friend, and can vouch for the quality of install (no scotch clips).
8. Put everything back together. Started car. Lights working. 14.5V at both batteries (still). Did a quick burn around the block with no problems.
9. Car started fine this morning. No warning lights/symbols (of course that would be the case, because I was in the car, and not my wife, because nothing ever happens when I'm driving it@!!!).

So - still not sure.
The battery voltages when I started would indicate some sort of problem (either with the battery, or a faulty earth???).
The park/side light would indicate a faulty connection/earth... So maybe that's the link???

Need to get someone who "knows", to have a look, I think...

Thanks for all your input - I'll keep you posted.

Rob

[Graeme]

From your latest notes I suspect that the parker LED issue was a red herring. The loose negative terminal would have a more general effect but not quite the same as a failing battery.

[HarryO]

Had same gremlin a year or two back (see post) - turned out to be a combination of corrosion of the negative cable where it joins the clamp AND the clamp that was not tightening properly. Replaced the whole cable & clamp with a pre-made unit from Battery World.

Now have a new family of gremlins move in..:mad::confused:

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

Just to tidy this issue up...

It was the battery.

Had the CCA's tested with a handheld unit (by RAC, and also at battery world). Both tests showed battery ok.
Battery World put a proper load on the battery - don't know what it's called, but it's a big box with cables, that puts an actual load on the battery, and measures V, A as the load is increased. Under load (that would still be less than starting load), battery was dropping <10V.
Lower voltages during starting means the various CPU's don't get the messages they should, or detect errors due to low voltage during the startup sequence.

So, new battery, and all good.

Another side note - when the battery is changed, apparently you need to tell the car that a new battery has been installed. Not sure of what this affects, but I was regularly getting "low starting battery voltage" warnings after the new battery had been put in!

Thanks again for your helpful comments! Love this forum! :BigThumb:

Rob

[LRD414]

....Another side note - when the battery is changed, apparently you need to tell the car that a new battery has been installed. Not sure of what this affects, but I was regularly getting "low starting battery voltage" warnings after the new battery had been put in! ....

Good result Rob and good to see you close the loop on the issue, posting back here.

How do you "tell the car" a new battery is installed? Did you have to go to a dealer?

Cheers,
Scott

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

A couple of the guys at my local battery world have L/R's, and one of them had a diagnostic computer-thing (not sure of brand).
He used this to clear the fault codes, and "reset the battery" (tell the car there was a new battery)...

That's what they told me, anyway!

[rufusking]

How do you "tell the car" a new battery is installed? Did you have to go to a dealer?


BBS's Nanocom Evolution has a function that does this.

[LRD414]

BBS's Nanocom Evolution has a function that does this.

Right, so my iiD Tool may do as well. Will look into it.

Thanks,
Scott

[dazray]

BBS's Nanocom Evolution has a function that does this.

Where do you find that function on the Nanocom?