Don't pull off the bump stops!

[p38arover]

I tried a recalibration of my EAS this week (twice) using T4 and the genuine LR calibration blocks.

It hasn't worked that well and I can no longer get access mode. A TSB says to remove the rear bump stops if one can't get access mode (lights continue to flash). So I did.

Do you think I could get the blasted thing back on?

In the end, I had to slit the hole to get it to open up enough to go over the retention mushroom.

I don't know if the calibration failed because I have Arnotts Gen 3 air springs and the suspension didn't sit like it does with standard springs. If I can't get it to calibrate, I'll refit the standard springs to try again.

[Keithy P38]

All I've ever done to replace bump stops is place it roughly in the right position on the axle pad and jacked the wheel up to push the bump stop on. Never failed me!

[benji]

I remember trying wd40, then cracking it and releasing the air from the back springs to squash them back on.

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

[p38arover]

All I've ever done to replace bump stops is place it roughly in the right position on the axle pad and jacked the wheel up to push the bump stop on. Never failed me!

Lucky beggar! I tried that, I even lubed the mushroom and bump stop.

I'm not gunna try again! :D

[Blknight.aus]

use a spacer block so you dont have to lift is quite so high...

just a chunk of pine will typically do
bbbbbbb

[p38arover]

use a spacer block so you don't have to lift is quite so high...

just a chunk of pine will typically do
bbbbbbb

Yep, I tried that, too. :(

Below the images are the measured wheel arch heights, measured from the centre of the wheel, not from the ground. I used the centre of the wheel as it takes out the variation in tyre wear. LR give the dimensions to the ground and one has to allow for wear. Note that my calibration attempts and measurements were done on a level concrete slab, not the driveway as shown in the pics.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/454.jpg
http://p38arover.com/rover/p38a/pix/LRT_60-003.pdf

High (set by Testbook with long calibration blocks)
LF 520 RF 520
LR 520 RR 520

Standard (these are set by Testbook after setting access with the short blocks)
LF 470 RF 490
LR 480 RR 480

I was unable to measure at Highway height as I can't get the car to drop to there when stopped.

Ditto with access height.

OK, I need some help from someone with a Nanocom and an early P38A, preferably GEMS with standard suspension. I think later cars use a different sensor so the bit count could be different.

My Nanocom readings are shown below. I'd like to know another vehicles settings.

High (Stored/Live)
LF 161/165 RF 157/157
LR 132/165 RR 130/127

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=97935&stc=1&d=1440063542

Standard (stored/Live)
LF 131/134 RF 127/121
LR 110/113 RR 108/105

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=97936&stc=1&d=1440063556

Highway (Low Profile)(stored/Live)
LF 113/123 RF 109/110
LR 97/99 RR 94/94

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=97982&stc=1&d=1440243176

Access (Stored/Live) - note the front rises which it shouldn't do. The light in the switch doesn't stop flashing.
LF 78/130 RF 74/116
LR 72/75 RR 69/67

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=97938&stc=1&d=1440064144

[p38arover]

Pix added. I've used Photoshop to rotate the images so the wheel centre caps are aligned to a horizontal line.

[Scouse]

I need some help from someone with a Nanocom and an early P38A, preferably GEMS with standard suspension. I think later cars use a different sensor so the bit count could be different.
Leslie's car, 1996 GEMS with Gen 3's, stored readings:


Access
F 77/86
R 76/74


Highway
F 108/118
R 100/96


Standard
F 124/135
R 113/109


High
F 150/162
R 134/128






My car, 1998 EDC, standard springs:


Access:
F 66
R 69


Highway
F 92
R 89


Standard
F 108
R 102


High
F 140
R 128




My car had a variation of 5 points between left & right originally but it also had a slight lean to the low point side. I evened the points to correct the lean.
Leslie's car has a variation up to 12 points difference but appears OK level wise.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Please tell me Scott you didnt let him work on the car without you----:Thump::Rolling:

[mtb_gary]

Ron, when I put my extended bump stops on I raised the car to "normal" height then put a block of wood between bump stop and bottom plate greased up the locating pin for the bump stop as well as the bump stop itself then aligned the bump stop with the locating pin. Using the bypass valve released some air on the appropriate corner and the bump stops located themselves back into position without a problem.

[p38arover]

I'll pull one off my other P38A and try to fit it to this car.

BTW, I've added a Low Profile photo to the post above. I took the photo after it went to low profile on a motorway run. I selected the inhibit switch so it would stay low until I got home and got a pic.

[p38arover]

Leslie's car, 1996 GEMS with Gen 3's, stored readings:

Leslie's bit counts aren't much different to mine so that's good.

If I can sort the lowering to Access Profile, all may be OK. While I can't lower to Low (Highway) Profile when stopped, the car will drop to there on the highway.

I suspect yours has different sensors and that's why the bit counts are so different.

[Blknight.aus]

from memory..

aren't there pre-requisites for accessing som of th modes?

th

[p38arover]

Yes, there are. They are listed in the owner's handbook.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=97983&stc=1&d=1440246697

[Scouse]

Leslie's bit counts aren't much different to mine so that's good.
Her car also happily dropped down to access this morning. It's never done it for me before (with Gen 3s), not that I drive it much.


from memory..

aren't there pre-requisites for accessing som of th modes?

thAll 4 regular modes can be selected with the car stationary. The only mode that can't is the extended mode which the ECU selects when it thinks the chassis has grounded.

[FANTOM P38]

Hi Ron,
I also have Gen III's and hard range lift kit.
I have also recalibrated the settings in EAS with Storey Wilsons program.
I have no problem changing from access thru to extended.
Check that your values for each height are within that heights range.
Otherwise you may have a sensor issue.
I have posted all my heights etc previously also the ranges that need to be adhered to.
Hope this helps.

[p38arover]

AS you know the car is for sale (possible buyer coming tomorrow). :)

But I couldn't sell it with the EAS issue - which is now fixed. I tried recalibrating again but to no avail so replaced the valve block and driver pack and all is well. I have no idea where the problem lies as the valve block had been rebuilt a few months back. If I had more time, I'd try changing only the driver pack.

Figures with Nanocom after calibration with LR calibration blocks. Note. however, the calibration was done yesterday with the old valve block, not the new one which was fitted today.

FL..............FR...........LR..........RR
High - Stored/Live

162/163..157/157..132/132..130/130

Standard - Stored/Live
132/131..127/125..110/110..108/109

Low - Stored/Live
113/114..109/110....96/97.....95/96

Access - Stored/Live
78/82.......74/75......71/73.....70/70

[Keithy P38]

I'd say the driver unit is the culprit. They are getting on now! Mine was giving issues on the drive to its new owner with a rebuilt valve block (and no leaks), it's either the right rear solenoid or the driver unit on it.

I haven't priced driver units, but if you have a known good spare that's my first port of call.

Cheers
Keithy

[p38arover]

How disappointing! The new owner called me from Kempsey this morning. The Rangie was reluctant to come off the bump stops. It must have lost air overnight and the compressor might be getting weak even though it was rebuilt earlier this year. I used to have a light on the dash to tell me when the compressor was running.

The valve block I removed didn't lose air so I don't know if the replacement is. Fortunately, I had given him another compressor which I rebuilt t the same time as the one in the car. It has a new piston ring, cylinder, filter, and O-rings. Compressors are very easy to change.

The P38A does have a manual inflation kit installed and an EAS disable switch so, if needs be, the corners can be inflated and the EAS system, including compressor, switched off.

I'm really upset about this.

[Keithy P38]

I feel your pain mate. Timing!

[p38arover]

He's home, used 122 litres of petrol and averaged 14.5l/100km