Recovery points

[strange_rover1]

Hi all,
I know this has been discussed in several places but I never seem to see an answer. I have a 2009 Defender with a TJM winch bar and need to fit some recovery points and everyone I ring tells me there is nothing available for it and TJM says winching only no recovery points are fitted to the bar.
So after some looking around I found the Steel swivel eye recovery points (see pic) and my question is, does anyone think these would be suitable for snatch recoveries? I don't plan to use them a lot as the winch would be preferred but in case the winch stops I may need it. Also does anyone know if there is somewhere in Perth that sells them?
Cheers

[Patchy]

Hi strange rover I was asked similar question about a year ago when I first got my defender I was looking at jate rings or any other options out there, basicly the general consensus was to go the APT steering guard and been happy with it ever since not to pricey and gives some protection so win win.

At the end of the day you will end up snaching more often then winching simply coz its quicker and easier that is Unless you travel alone alot.

Cheers Brian

[strange_rover1]

Thanks Brian,

What price did you pay for it and where did you get it. It sounds just right. Did you install yourself?

Cheers

Shane

[noyakfat]

I have the APT steering guard too. Excellent recovery points built into this unit. I bought mine from Ben at APT in Brisbane and he freighted it to Canberra for me. I fitted it myself and it was easy.

Contact Ben for current price delivered to your place. He is a nice bloke with exceptionally good customer service. He goes to the nth degree to ensure you're a happy customer.

Two thumbs up from me.

Cheers

[Patchy]

Shane As mentioned Ben is a top bloke to deal with very helpful if the link works will point ya right there...
APT Fabrication Custom Land Rover Parts & Accessories - Land Rover Steering Guards (http://www.aptfabrications.com.au/land-rover-steering-guards)

and yeah I fitted myself very simple had it done in my driveway in under an hour.

Cheers Brian

[strange_rover1]

Fantastic,
Thanks guys. I will get one ordered but it doesn't solve my current problem as I have entered the Team W4 challenge and was hoping to have it on before then. I will just have to use the winch bar jacking points or better still I just won't get stuck!!:p will call Ben tomorrow.
Thanks again

Shano

[cookie monster]

You may also want to enquire with the 'Expedition Centre' about the APT steering guard, as they were substantially cheaper on freight to Adelaide than what Ben quoted.
Top quality product and easy fit as others have said.
I had to 'address' the recovery eyes inwards a little to fit my ARB bulbar. as they fouled on the chassis mount of the bar.
Moved them both approx. 5mm towards the centre of the car with a copper/hide mallet.
Not sure if this would be the case on a TJM bar ?


cheers Cookie

[Longtimer]

It's my recommendation that you get a briddle and use that when you are winching or snatching.
Especially snatching as the forces involved can be much higher.
The bridle will put an even pull on both sides of your chassis, which will help eliminate twisting the chassis. They are NOT what they used to be, structurally.

If you want to keep your Reece Hitch in good condition, you will not use a commercial recovery hitch piece. The problem with them is that they don't go far enough into the hitch to transfer the loads correctly to to support points. This allows the tube to get bent and damaged, with anything other than a perpendicular pull. If it's only a 10 or 15 degree pull (to the axis of the hitch), you think that it's bugger all, but with 6+ tonne of force being applied by the cowboys, something will bend or break. I made mine because A/ As an professional engineer I was appalled by the poor designs I saw in the shops, B/ no one commercially makes them long enough (costs more in steel), and C/ I can. Get one made by your local machine shop. It's cost more than the crap they sell in the shop, but it will certainly be worth it. Also, make sure the machined tongue sticks out the tube just far enough for the shackle to have few mm clearance from the tube. We may as well reduce the bending forces while we're at it.

My $0.02 worth.


Cheers,

Phill.

[jackdef90]

Long timer,
can you show us your design, just curious as to how much it differs from my rear hitch recovery point, if it's still held in by the same pin as id assume it would have to be, mine is the same length that the tow ball piece slides in so I'm a bit unsure of how you've made it stronger?

As for those front swivel points I've got them they're good as long as you have the right bull/winch bar, if they fit snug after you've placed in the circlip then your bar has the right backing plate (about 5mm).

[strange_rover1]

Thanks for all the replies.
Jackdef90 would you snatch from those swivel eye points?

[jackdef90]

Haven't yet but I would if I needed to, but like longtimer said only with a bridle to spread the load, I don't really like snatching I'd try other methods first.

[Longtimer]

Sorry for the delay in responding gents, but to respond to Jackdef90's question required some daylight and time. :-)


I will have to experiment here and try to put the pictures into the spot in the text.....

The first pic is a comparison between my recovery hitch and a pretty standard one from a 4WD shop. It just happens to be a Bushranger one. They are all pretty much the same so don't hold it against that brand.
From looking at the pic' it can be seen how much material protrudes out past the tube with the shop one, when you realise that my cutback starts right at the end of the steel tube of the hitch. The further your shackle point is from the tube support, the greater the leaverage it has to bend the tube from the pin hole outwards. Many Reece Hitch's have the front support infront of the pin hole. Amplifying the problem. You can also see that mine has a lot of material that goes right to the back of the hitch tube. I actually have to lop a bit of to enable it to fit, as I made 3 the same overall length to suit some friends vehicles.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/99238d1442197193-recovery-points-20150913_132740.jpg


The second pic shows the underside of the Standard LR Reece Hitch. I drew a line on the side with my finger to show the end of the tube. The left hand side of the line is the end of the tube. The further back that you go into the hitch, the stronger the whole setup becomes. Pulling dirrectly sideways (and up and down) now puts as much load as possible onto the rear support as well as the front support. The front support is only welded at the top of the tube, which only really supports a vertical loads. Any sideways forces will twist and bend the tube. And also overstress the weld if it gets the opportunity. By having the hitch go to the back of the tube, we are now adding support to the front of the tube as the rear supports inhibit twisting.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99239&stc=1&d=1442197200


I have seen quite a few twisted and bent Reece Hitches over the years. Many will take a recovery hitch, but can no longer take the longer tow hitches due to being twisted and bent from recoveries.

Unfortunately I can't remember how long the standard tow hitch is, but I may make a new one if it doesn't go back far enough for me to be comfortable. I do on occasions pull my mates boat which comes in at almost 4t with fuel...... But the load there is nothing compared to my Son's 8T snatch strap can put onto things.
At this stage the Standard gear is covered under warranty, so I am sure they will replace it if there is a concern. :D


Cheers,

Phill.

[AndyG]

And for those without a hitch

Nugget Stuff

nugget stuff home (http://www.nuggetstuff.com/defenderrearrechd.html) ;)
Oh , new stuff available ot buy :D

[jackdef90]

Thanks for the pics longtimer
I see what you mean.
I'm at sea at present so can't check, but I'm pretty sure my recovery hitch is quite a bit longer than the one in your picture. Don't know what brand it is as it came off my ex nissan.

[landoman]

Hi strange rover I was asked similar question about a year ago when I first got my defender I was looking at jate rings or any other options out there, basicly the general consensus was to go the APT steering guard and been happy with it ever since not to pricey and gives some protection so win win.

At the end of the day you will end up snaching more often then winching simply coz its quicker and easier that is Unless you travel alone alot.

Cheers Brian

I have been told that the APT steering guard does not fit with the TJM bull bar
Can any one confirm that is or is not so

I want to fit a TJM bar to a 2015 defender .......( which has no recovery points )
And then fit an APT Steering guard for protection and recovery

Anyone got this combination in place who can comment please

[AndyG]

I have been told that the APT steering guard does not fit with the TJM bull bar
Can any one confirm that is or is not so

I want to fit a TJM bar to a 2015 defender .......( which has no recovery points )
And then fit an APT Steering guard for protection and recovery

Anyone got this combination in place who can comment please

Might be best to ask APT directly, Ben's very helpful

[alien]

I have been told that the APT steering guard does not fit with the TJM bull bar
Can any one confirm that is or is not so

I want to fit a TJM bar to a 2015 defender .......( which has no recovery points )
And then fit an APT Steering guard for protection and recovery

Anyone got this combination in place who can comment please
Yes I have, I have replied in the other thread...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/228459-apt-steering-guard-tjm-bar.html :)