timing belt change

[shamirj]

hi all,

after chasing some quotes for D3 Tdv6 timing belt change, been quoted from $1500 to $3000 some included changing water pump (whilst there saving on labour costs) and the problematic housing but not all replace the housing, some inspect others demand it to be changed. Takes between 1-2days to complete the job.

I have heard you can buy the kit to replace all for approx $500 and can be done at home. Has anyone done the timing belt change at home, how long to do and how difficult to undertake. My only concern is throwing the timing out. I know you can also buy the pins to hold the timing cheaply on ebay.

One supplier mentioned i think the D4 3L needs body off to do the rear timing belt. thoughts anyone. thx

[shanegtr]

I done mine at home, no real issues. Took me 2 days as getting the starter out took ages and the crank shaft pulley didn't want to come off in a hurry, and every other step seemed to take ages pulling apart. I also made up a tool to hold the fan hub pulley so that took a couple of hours as well. It all went back together much faster than removal.
All up cost me around $950 doing it myself. I put on a new alternator belt, replaced the coolant, new oil pump casing, crank pulley bolt, new timing belt idlers, timing belt, and rear fuel pump belt

[winaje]

I done mine at home, no real issues. Took me 2 days as getting the starter out took ages and the crank shaft pulley didn't want to come off in a hurry, and every other step seemed to take ages pulling apart. I also made up a tool to hold the fan hub pulley so that took a couple of hours as well. It all went back together much faster than removal.
All up cost me around $950 doing it myself. I put on a new alternator belt, replaced the coolant, new oil pump casing, crank pulley bolt, new timing belt idlers, timing belt, and rear fuel pump belt

Shane, did you basically pull the entire nose of the car off to get access to the area? Also, do you have a parts list including numbers?

Thanks

[Fatso]

The body does not to come off , if your handy with the spanners it is not an insurmountable job . Any competent workshop should be able to knock over in less than a day , if yours is the early D3 td6 2007/8 era it is advisable change out the oil pump ,it is not a big deal to do when the belts are done.

[Ean Austral]

Shane, did you basically pull the entire nose of the car off to get access to the area? Also, do you have a parts list including numbers?

Thanks

There is a step by step tutorial on the disco3uk site. Think its from disco Mikey. It does both HP fuel pump and the timing belt. I even think he updated it for the oul pump casing as well.

Cheers Ean

[vbrab]

Pretty certain "body off" for rear timing belts is a furphy.
Have had mine done twice now (all front and rear belts, tensioners and idlers), and nobody has mentioned having to remove the body to do it.
Seems the rear belts/tensioners do require a skilled tech with some Houdini type maneuvers to make the change.
Have found that cheapest option was to order all parts from Brit Parts (UK) online (with water pump), and then get my service guy to fit all. That way fitting new water pump doesn't add too much to overall cost. They may have upgraded oil pump housing as well.
And if your oil pump housing hasn't been upgraded, certainly get it done.

[Ean Austral]

The 3ltr in the D4 is a body off as the FP belt ( rear belt ) is timed , that's what I have been told by several mechanics and am sure it was on the UK site that I read the same thing.


D3 FP belt ( rear belt ) from everything I have read can be done body on , just need to be double jointed and be able to work blind.


Cheers Ean

[Graeme]

The WSM does not indicate that the 3.0's rear belt has to be changed with the body off but perhaps in practice it is quite difficult to change with the body on. A special tool to lock the HPFP is required though.

[shanegtr]

Shane, did you basically pull the entire nose of the car off to get access to the area? Also, do you have a parts list including numbers?

Thanks
Only need to remove the air intake pipe and top half of the fan shroud and the fan - theres plently of room once that stuff is out of the way.
Parts I used and rounded prices:
RO-PQS500370 Alternator belt $81 (I could have gotten a belt cheaper but I didnt get one before starting the job like the rest of the parts - when I removed the old belt I decided not to reuse it)
Coolant- $50 Did a drain and replace while coolant lines needed to be split
LR002458 Crank shaft bolt $35
LR013487 Oil pump housing $225
LR016655 Timing belt kit Front $280
1311306 Timing belt idler lower front $42
1324390-A Timing belt rear $125

Timing pin kit was from ebay for under $50 from memory

[shamirj]

knowing what you have to go thru to do this would you do it again ? it is a saving and rewarding doing yourself even if it takes longer. couple of Qs

1. did you remove starter to lock the flywheel
2. how was the rear belt removal done blindly
3. did you not buy a complete kit for the belts
4. is most of the work done from above except starter from below

thx

[BigJon]

1. did you remove starter to lock the flywheel
2. how was the rear belt removal done blindly
3. did you not buy a complete kit for the belts
4. is most of the work done from above except starter from below



1: Yes, you have to to install the locking pin. It isn't hard to do.
2: Very carefully. After having to deal with a disaster on a Sport, I recommend cutting the belt off BEFORE remove the tensioner bolt (had the alloy thread come out with the bolt).
4: Yes.

The crank seal can be a right bugger to install as well.

[Graeme]

2: Very carefully. After having to deal with a disaster on a Sport, I recommend cutting the belt off BEFORE remove the tensioner boltThis is the LR advice in the WSM for the 3.0.

[shanegtr]

Yep starter removed for locking the flywheel. If the oil pump is not being remove then it's a step that you most likely won't need. rear belt removal was a piece of cake, but I found putting the new one in a challenge - mainly getting the tensioner in and getting the bolt thread started. Access to everything apart from by the starter was fine from the top of the engine. In regards to the kit, I ordered most of the timing belt parts from roverlord so just got what I requested in regards to belts and tensioner etc......

Sent from my GT-I9505 using AULRO mobile app

[Grappler]

I recently did the timing belt and oil pump in my shed. The hardest part was dealing with the starter. Well worth the effort
I was concerned the flywheel locating pin would not be strong enough. The manual recommends a special toothed locking tool. Anyway the pin held against torquing the crank bolt OK. My $15 chinese timing tool kit needed a bit of machining to fit

I paid 60 GBP to get these parts from UK

2 x Timing Belt Idler Front 2.7 TDV6 (Dayco NTN) 1311306G GBP 50.00
1 x Timing Belt & Tensioner Rear 05-07 (Dayco) 1324390 GBP 38.33
1 x Timing Belt & Tensioner Front 2.7 TDV6 05-09 (Dayco) 1324388 LR016655 GBP 58.33
1 x Oil Seal Crank Front TDV6 (Genuine) 1102415 GBP 3.00
1 x Oil Pump TDV6 (Genuine) LR013487 GBP 70.00
1 x Oil Filter 2.7 Tdv6 (Mahle) 1311289G GBP 3.50
1 x Drive Belt 2.7 V6 (Dayco) PQS500370G GBP 11.99

plus crank bolt at $20

[shamirj]

would people bother changing the oil pump housing if it already has the newer version with extra ribbing or only if its the older style with no ribbing. the cost seems to have gone from 70 pound to 200 pound nowadays. part number changed to LR076782 from LR013487. thoughts

[Fatso]

would people bother changing the oil pump housing if it already has the newer version with extra ribbing or only if its the older style with no ribbing. the cost seems to have gone from 70 pound to 200 pound nowadays. part number changed to LR076782 from LR013487. thoughts



Only change out if older version is fitted , I have not heard of any of the newer pumps with the extra ribbing letting go . Not sure exactly what year LR upgraded the oil pump , they should also list this problem as a recall as there is now no disputing the nature of the problem .

[shanegtr]

I agree, I haven't read anything that indicates the replacement housing has the same issues. At this stage the next timing belt I do I wont be changing my housing. On the bright side it should make changing the main timing belt job a hell of a lot faster

[PeterOZ]

Only change out if older version is fitted , I have not heard of any of the newer pumps with the extra ribbing letting go . Not sure exactly what year LR upgraded the oil pump , they should also list this problem as a recall as there is now no disputing the nature of the problem .



that housing cost me $13k for another engine to be fitted . . .

[shamirj]

peteroz was that an older ribbless housing that let go ? cheers

[PeterOZ]

Yes mate it was.

[Oztourer]

Just keep in mind that you will have to provide your own warranty for any work you do yourself :D. Using a reputable licensed mechanic provides peace of mind. I say that cause I've got one that knows what he's doing. :)