LT230 Clunk

[Duarte19]

So i have been chasing a rear end clunk for a couple of weeks now and narrowed it down to what looks like a center diff clunk, only does it under load, with the rear prop removed it does not do this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPqofARW7zs

Behaves as if the brake shoes are sticking but i have backed them right off and still get the clunk, has anyone seen this before?

Tonight I will try with the center diff locked and see what happens

EDIT: I should add that I have checked the output flange and there is no wear on the splines, this is also a later box with a cross drilled input gear

[DiscoDB]

Does it only clunk just after you start to move, or can it make the noise as you load up but still stationary. The former would explain why you think it is something binding up, but if you can get it to clunk before you move then you would think it is excessive backlash in the drive train, could even be from diff. Had similar with a D1 that was a failing Uni joint.

An extended stethoscope that you could attach to different points would be handy.

[Judo]

Definitely check the rear prop shaft nuts are tight at both ends.

Edit: just saw the video sorry. Was on my phone. Probably not suspension.

[Hall]

May well be your center diff. I had a clunk like that only a bit worse. What it could be is the center diff has back lash. When you take of the front prop shaft and the rear prop shaft start need to take up that back lash hence the clunk. Taking the rear shaft of as you did removes this take up. This is why I suggest it is the center diff. There are four bronze cup washers and some fiber shims in the the center diff that will over time wear. So not knowing the age of you landy , these may be the problem.
Cheers Hall

[Duarte19]

Does it only clunk just after you start to move, or can it make the noise as you load up but still stationary. The former would explain why you think it is something binding up, but if you can get it to clunk before you move then you would think it is excessive backlash in the drive train, could even be from diff. Had similar with a D1 that was a failing Uni joint.

An extended stethoscope that you could attach to different points would be handy.

Does it JUST as I start to move, I have thought about purchasing a remote/wireless ear but i'm pretty sure from the video its in the transfer case



Definitely check the rear prop shaft nuts are tight at both ends.

Edit: just saw the video sorry. Was on my phone. Probably not suspension..

not suspension, I drove the car for a day without the rear prop, no clunk, replaced with fresh bolts



May well be your center diff. I had a clunk like that only a bit worse. What it could be is the center diff has back lash. When you take of the front prop shaft and the rear prop shaft start need to take up that back lash hence the clunk. Taking the rear shaft of as you did removes this take up. This is why I suggest it is the center diff. There are four bronze cup washers and some fiber shims in the the center diff that will over time wear. So not knowing the age of you landy , these may be the problem.
Cheers Hall

This is what I am suspecting, worn thrust washers, I was just hoping for more confirmation, has anyone replaced these without dropping the box? mine runs quiet and has no leaks so I have no other reason to drop the box, looking through the overhaul manual it looks like it should be possible

[Hall]

I dropped the box to do mine. For two reasons though. I overhauled the whole box and due to it being behind a Isuzu gear box there was not the room to get the front section containing the diff off any way. Would be doable though. Others that have done it insitu, if they reply, will tell you weather it is easy enough.
Cheers Hall

[bumper]

In the video looks like the drive shaft is hitting the flange off the hand break hub when it starts to spin

[TeamFA]

This is what I am suspecting, worn thrust washers, I was just hoping for more confirmation, has anyone replaced these without dropping the box? mine runs quiet and has no leaks so I have no other reason to drop the box, looking through the overhaul manual it looks like it should be possible

I have just done this, to replace disintegrated thrust washers. Do you mean without dropping the gearbox? You have to drop the transfer box, I reckon.

Transfer box off only is a hell of a lot easier that gearbox/bell housing/transfer box.

[Duarte19]

I have just tried the same thing driving back and forth with the center diff locked and the clunk is still there but very faint, has definitely changed, are these typical symptoms of worn thrust washers?

[Duarte19]

In the video looks like the drive shaft is hitting the flange off the hand break hub when it starts to spin


this is exactly where the clunk is coming from, excessive backlash...

[LandyAndy]

I had the thrust washers done in my D2,it cured a clunk you mention.
Look into the ashcroft LSD to replace the CDL,if you ca afford it,I was looking at selling the vehicle into the future so I opted out.You can still lock the LSD apparantly.
Worth considering.
Andrew

[Duarte19]

Update to this issue

this was a combination of issues, worn thrust washers, 2 completely worn and 2 not much left in them, maybe 5-10 thou, caught this in time as there was no wear on the inside of the diff.

Second issue was the output flange on the rear diff, I used loctite 609 as thats what I had lying around, cured the problem, there is also a TSB covering this LD205-002

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/611.jpg

[roverrescue]

Thanks for Updating
From symptoms/video it certainly sounded centre diff like but it is not surprising that it was a dual problem.

So often people ask for help but then dont come back to fill in the final details to the community. It makes this thread much more meaningful.

Thanks

S