Hori Turbo Throw Together

[BadCo.]

Right well, a mate of a mate gave a mate a turbo for me to chuck on the Isuzu. So I bought a genuine exhaust manifold, drove the truck into the garage, and now here we are...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/257.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/258.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/259.jpg

It's a cute little Nissan turbo off of a VG20 motor. It has 16 V 8 on the compressor housing and apparently is good for 12 PSI. That's all I know about it.

Now, I had dreams of doing a sweet intercooled turbo setup later on next year, but this turbo fell in my lap. So me and mate thought we would throw it together then tidy it up later as funds become available. So please bear with me :)


Lots of things to sort through:

-Move dipstick: It flops around a bit at the moment, so not too hard to move
-Move heater lines: I might just run heater hose around the outside back to engine, I may flip the heater core
-Move vac line: Might just use flexible vacuum hose and a Tee for the diff lock.
-Oil supply: Still trying to find it
-Oil return: Going to tap a -10AN elbow onto the plate below the breather
-Exhaust and dump pipe: Next weeks problem
-Flip air cleaner and modify to suit: I'll probably blank off the intake and make the duck bill the intake and find somewhere else to do the drain.
-Extend breather pipe.
-Thermocouple: I have a 1" T3 spacer that I will drip a hole in for the probe

Did I miss anything?


Current Issues:

-Turbo oil drain: Did you spot it? Is this going to work?
-Oil supply: Still can't find it.
-Manifold Studs: Can I just use bolts?


There is also a big shopping list and few funds available (not how I wanted to do this, oh well) the * ones are what I have already obtained.

-Side Plates to Cylinder Block 8943673680 x2*
-Manifold Gasket 8944046100*
-T3 Gasket x2
-Exhaust flange gasket
-T3 Spacer*
-EGT Gauge and probe
-Boost Gauge
-Oil press Gauge
-Exhaust Flange
-Hose Clamps
-Silicon hoses
-Gauge Pod*
-Oil Drain flange
-Compressor Outlet Elbow*


Feel free to post some feedback and any tips haha.


Wish me luck!

Bad

[paulak]

Good luck.
Watching with interest.
Paul.

[BadCo.]

Another mission done.

Removed the heater matrix.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/237.jpg

Drilled out rivets, flipped the core, then re-riveted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/238.jpg

Ran the heater hose out of the way as best as possible.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/239.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/240.jpg

Tons of space now.

Tomorrows mission, Vacuum line.

[Adrian18]

Oil feed tee off alternatorfeed at the banjo use a longer bolt and use a 2nd banjo to feed turbo ....manifold use bolts and spring washers and never seize ....is that the turbo oil dump on top????

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[BadCo.]

Oil feed tee off alternatorfeed at the banjo use a longer bolt and use a 2nd banjo to feed turbo ....manifold use bolts and spring washers and never seize ....is that the turbo oil dump on top????

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I was hoping to get oil feed off of the gallery, but I'm not sure where I am looking. Supposedly to the right of the pressure sender?

Unfortunately that is the drain on top. Not sure if this will work or end up with oil in the exhaust?


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[steveG]

I was hoping to get oil feed off of the gallery, but I'm not sure where I am looking. Supposedly to the right of the pressure sender?

Unfortunately that is the drain on top. Not sure if this will work or end up with oil in the exhaust?


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Definitely need the drain at the bottom - within about 15deg of vertical is the recommendation from memory. Should be able to loosen the clamp plates between the center assy and the compressor and turbine housings then rotate the center compared to the housing. If it doesn't want to turn once they are loosened, don't force it - take the housing right off as there might be a locating pin in there. Google "turbo clocking" for more info.
You'll likely have to modify the bracket for the wastegate actuator unless you get lucky and it lines up with bolt holes afterwards.

Steve

[BadCo.]

Definitely need the drain at the bottom - within about 15deg of vertical is the recommendation from memory. Should be able to loosen the clamp plates between the center assy and the compressor and turbine housings then rotate the center compared to the housing. If it doesn't want to turn once they are loosened, don't force it - take the housing right off as there might be a locating pin in there. Google "turbo clocking" for more info.
You'll likely have to modify the bracket for the wastegate actuator unless you get lucky and it lines up with bolt holes afterwards.

Steve

Awesome, thanks for that.

We did try and rotate the exhaust hosing but it won't spin on the centre bit. The compressor rotates fine though but we need to rotate both 180 degrees.

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[87County]

Watching with interest..... I understand that the turbo was free but have you otherwise estimated the cost ?

I hope it all goes smoothly for you.

[BadCo.]

I can give you an estimate when I get home. It should only be a few hundred bucks not including the dump pipe and exhaust.

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[Adrian18]

Couple of pics of oil feed ect

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[BadCo.]

Thanks for that. I see the oil feed is from the top of the VAC line not the bottom.

Also that's the kind of elbow I need out of the air cleaner, any more details on that? Is it restrictive at all?

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[Adrian18]

The black elbow is the standard one from na set up the blue one a silicon job

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[Judo]

From Adrian's pics:

The top of the alternator is the vacuum line. (Nothing to do with oil)
The rear centre is the oil feed - where you can see 2 banjos.
Underneath the alternator is oil drain. (Can't see this in the pics)

[BadCo.]

From Adrian's pics:

The top of the alternator is the vacuum line. (Nothing to do with oil)
The rear centre is the oil feed - where you can see 2 banjos.
Underneath the alternator is oil drain. (Can't see this in the pics)

Sorry I was meaning he took the turbo oil feed from the top of the alternator oil feed (at the vacuum banjo) instead of the bottom (at the block).

Naturally I assumed you would take the feed from the banjo at the block.

[Judo]

Ah I see now. I knew one of us was confused. Looks like it was me. :)

[BadCo.]

The black elbow is the standard one from na set up the blue one a silicon job

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Really? Mine has a standard elbow. Is yours a cobra head (https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=cobra+head+90+elbow&biw=1034&bih=923&tbas=0&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMI4ZXe1cKRyAIVRRumCh02DgM5)?

[BadCo.]

Picked up a few things on the way home from work today.

From left, Mud gauge Pod, turbo compressor outlet elbow, 1" T3 spacer, two T3 gaskets (the cheap type :(), turbo bolts, manifold bolts and vacuum hose up top.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/219.jpg

[Adrian18]

I suppose u could call it a cobra head ....any 90?bend 3"to2" would work but

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[BadCo.]

After modify the air cleaner it seems the factory elbow will fit.

We made some good progress yesterday, will post a few photos tonight.

Adrian, do you remember the thread size and length of your double banjo bolt?

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[brad56]

Hi Bad Co hope all goes well on this project I hope to turbo mine after I have done the rear disc breaks, so will be watching your progress with great interest.
Brad

[BadCo.]

Hi Bad Co hope all goes well on this project I hope to turbo mine after I have done the rear disc breaks, so will be watching your progress with great interest.
Brad

Hey thanks Brad, I hope it encourages people to do it to theres and not scare them off haha.

[BadCo.]

Ok so here is where we got to on Sunday.

I cut out the original intake on the air cleaner and siliconed and riveted a blank over it made of left over tin ducting.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/66.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/67.jpg

Now that is done I'll get a 70mm hole saw and drill out the original drain and use it as the intake. The air cleaner will be installed 180 degrees from factory.

Once the intake has been swapped, the filter now has to be modified so it still cyclones. We tried prying it off but that wasn't working. After a while we cut it half way down and that gave us enough flex to slide it off. Once off we taped it up and slide it on the other end.

Apparently you can buy these filters with the cyclone on the other end, I'll try find a part number for it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/68.jpg

Next job was to rerun the vacuum line using as much original gear as possible. This meant making a Tee out of the steel pipe for the CDL and reusing the hose clamps. Unfortunately the hose was too short so a new length was run at both ends.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/69.jpg

How about that sexy cable tying?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/70.jpg

This is my spacer that will hold the EGT gauge. This spacer also sits the turbo away from the manifold so i can in future use a turbo blanket. They were mm away from each other.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/71.jpg

And a test bolt up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/72.jpg

Next to do is the Oil Feed and Oil return and modify the dip stick. We thought we might get a RB25DET factory dump pipe and make a tractor stack just to test the turbo haha!

[BadCo.]

I have been thinking about running the intake behind the engine and below the air cleaner. I would rather run it over the engine but I can't rotate the compressor housing enough because of the wastegate.

Anyone got any clever ideas? Basically the turbo outlet points straight down.

[Adrian18]

Get rid of the waste gate not needed on 4bd1 diesels mine is disconnected most guys on here are the same binned

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[Adrian18]

How'd you get a perentie in nz

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[BadCo.]

Get rid of the waste gate not needed on 4bd1 diesels mine is disconnected most guys on here are the same binned

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So what is limiting the boost? I know nothing about this turbo (other then it is waste gated to 12psi) and don't want to risk destroying it with 20+psi.


How'd you get a perentie in nz

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Grays sent a half dozen over to sell, it didn't really work out for them.

[steveG]

I have been thinking about running the intake behind the engine and below the air cleaner. I would rather run it over the engine but I can't rotate the compressor housing enough because of the wastegate.

Anyone got any clever ideas? Basically the turbo outlet points straight down.

I did exactly that on my County. Clamped a short section of straight steel tube under the air cleaner brackets, and connected to it with silicon elbows.
It was part of a plan to perhaps run a barrel style WTA intercooler, but I've never got around to it.

Steve

[BadCo.]

Did it work out alright? Not too laggy? There is probably twice the bends going that way...

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[Adrian18]

Boost is controlled by fuel .more fuel more boost ....bear in mind as is fuel wise as a n. a. youll get almost no boost you'll have to increase fuel to get boost hence fuel = boost and control of ...some of the factory 4bd1t had nonwaste gated turbos... forget all your petrol stuff... with diesel the more air the better

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[BadCo.]

Boost is controlled by fuel .more fuel more boost ....bear in mind as is fuel wise as a n. a. youll get almost no boost you'll have to increase fuel to get boost hence fuel = boost and control of ...some of the factory 4bd1t had nonwaste gated turbos... forget all your petrol stuff... with diesel the more air the better

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Ok thanks for the info, it will save me some money on silicone and hose clamps.

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[BadCo.]

It was part of a plan to perhaps run a barrel style WTA intercooler, but I've never got around to it.

Steve

First time I have heard of these. What size were you thinking of? What were you going to use as the radiator? I was eyeing up the heater core until I pulled it out and saw how small it was.

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[steveG]

First time I have heard of these. What size were you thinking of? What were you going to use as the radiator? I was eyeing up the heater core until I pulled it out and saw how small it was.

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Frozenboost type 19 intercooler will fit nicely: http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/long-flow-style-water-to-air-intercooler-p-219.html (http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/long-flow-style-water-to-air-intercooler-p-219.html?osCsid=9fbe26f0e91af3f62c0404af82a6a3fc)

Was planning one of their 24x12x1" radiators, and a Bosch pump.

Regarding pipework and lag, everyone thats driven mine commented that it didn't really have any. I've driven one with a VNT turbo that pulled solidly from idle, but thats a whole different animal.....

Steve

[rar110]

There's a diamond sort of shaped plate in front of the starter motor held by two bolts. That is the oil drain point for the 4BDT1 motors. You could weld on a piece of straight pipe at an angle or a section of bent pipe.

[BadCo.]

Yup that's the plan. I was very happy when I found my block had that diamond plate, it will make the drain much easier.

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[dingsy]

Frozenboost type 19 intercooler will fit nicely: http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/long-flow-style-water-to-air-intercooler-p-219.html (http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/long-flow-style-water-to-air-intercooler-p-219.html?osCsid=9fbe26f0e91af3f62c0404af82a6a3fc) Was planning one of their 24x12x1" radiators, and a Bosch pump. Regarding pipework and lag, everyone thats driven mine commented that it didn't really have any. I've driven one with a VNT turbo that pulled solidly from idle, but thats a whole different animal..... Steve

Will this fit over the top of the acoustic cover with the standard bonnet?

[BadCo.]

Will this fit over the top of the acoustic cover with the standard bonnet?

I doubt it. There is barely two inches above the rocker cover and bonnet at the highest point as it is.

He intended it to go under the air cleaner, and its a tempting idea...

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[BadCo.]

Sorry guys, progress has been slow lately. I did pick up the hole saws I needed, but I have been working Saturdays so haven't had much time to put into the truck.


Frozenboost type 19 intercooler will fit nicely: http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/long-flow-style-water-to-air-intercooler-p-219.html (http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/long-flow-style-water-to-air-intercooler-p-219.html?osCsid=9fbe26f0e91af3f62c0404af82a6a3fc)

Was planning one of their 24x12x1" radiators, and a Bosch pump.

Regarding pipework and lag, everyone thats driven mine commented that it didn't really have any. I've driven one with a VNT turbo that pulled solidly from idle, but thats a whole different animal.....

Steve

I was measuring up under the air cleaner, and I'm not sure if the Type 19 would fit?

[BadCo.]

A Type 20 (http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/long-flow-style-water-to-air-intercooler-p-220.html) looks like it might fit better and I won't have to use so many reducers.

[steveG]

You're correct. I've just checked again and it was definitely the type 20 I was planning to use. Sorry for the bum steer with the type19.

Steve.

[BadCo.]

Cool man no worries.

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[BadCo.]

Made some progress yesterday.

This arrived in the post, and it fits! It has a 2" outlet so I got a 2" to 2.5" elbow for it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/1085.jpg

Heated up and bent the dip stick tube so now it bolts to the new manifold. This took a bit of trial and error with a map gas torch. Also because I had to increase the radius of the bends the dipstick is a little tricky to get in.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/1086.jpg

I decided to remove the service indicator so I can shuffle the air cleaner over as much as possible. Don't be worried about the indicator being a weak point, it was a bitch to remove! I'm open to ideas of how to seal the hole I made haha. Might just silicone it, the rubber elbow should cover it and the clamp will be directly over it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/1087.jpg

Dummy fit. Those clamps aren't cheap!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/1088.jpg

[Phil B]

Very nice Bad!!
Great report, keep it coming

[flagg]

Will this fit over the top of the acoustic cover with the standard bonnet?

no, you'll need a Puma style bonnet. I did it over the top of the acoustic cover on mine with the puma bonnet. (different brand intercooler but the same hight)

[flagg]

Looking awesome Badco!

Mine sucks the indicator through under any conditions on boost so you're not going to be missing much by removing it.

Clever idea to switch the heater matrix over - wish I'd thought of that! ahha would have saved me a heap of grief. I found that the heater was full of air as it was higher than the bleed point - installed a little bleed point on a T at the matrix... not sure if it gets cold up your way if you need more heat I'd recommend the mod.

[BadCo.]

Looking awesome Badco!

Mine sucks the indicator through under any conditions on boost so you're not going to be missing much by removing it.

Clever idea to switch the heater matrix over - wish I'd thought of that! ahha would have saved me a heap of grief. I found that the heater was full of air as it was higher than the bleed point - installed a little bleed point on a T at the matrix... not sure if it gets cold up your way if you need more heat I'd recommend the mod.

Yeah I heard most people with snorkels trigger the indicator.

I'll keep the bleed mod in mind. The whole cooling system needs a proper filler/bleed point and a drain on the radiator

[BadCo.]

Small update!

I have tapped the EGT thermocouple hole (1/8th NPT).

Got a steel -10an fitting and welded it to the drain.

The brass bit is an adapter that goes into the block in place of the vacuum pump oil feed banjo, and tee's out to a -4an fitting and the vacuum pump oil feed banjo.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/826.jpg

Also, they ran out of blue silicone hoses. So I am stuck with pink :S


Hopefully this weekend I'll glue the fittings together and put them on the engine. I can also do the ducting from the turbo adapter to the dummy WTA IC.

Theeeen, I just need to do the AN pipes between all the fittings and wait for the other pink hoses to arrive. Still need to buy an EGT gauge to block the hole and then I can test run!

[BadCo.]

Oh I forgot we also changed the fan belt and thermostat (plus seal). I'm half way through the battery isolator and still have to redo the gearbox and transfer case breathers.

[BadCo.]

Ok I've had a bit of **** luck lately.

When I finally got all the intake bits they ended fouling on the poor installed factory slave cylinder line.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/333.jpg

So fine, what ever, I'll cut it our and put a flex line in.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H0qI1xPgEbo9-_uVMfweXni3LnQkHols3g3Ras914K1oR5AHawktjZRp81tbPTV 64rsAZvf3V94rkTPScQB1UYgxas3kaS-Fb3dntziPkr5id79KhcYztieKGXZLsDMN71pXVakwv4lncmuH_ t8Mrz5z9hO_IREJZI2ntD2ztmZKdSfCHpPvJiVRUFLgwoHQSK7 wiUHr98N0NQp-hWnUF2U5LfIGPT93JM7Yflyl5P2Y4LkVeOFrqgYyiRdXqFP4n5 VUBRy4_Qq6MACWpDaJNlMB9UIBRd9xhps-HY9cSzXZPln4FYoeFGgDCnEfakukU3o1bR3xq8QLpKdWnmZQQn TWq-WPQEdP6myE9fMNSwz25bcbkmdKKhhjOgs0ZiA82rTAUPSWGVv5 ZlUM868MrbTV9Obao6iea93o639xqCP559XGQcERxDykafO66w Q88ywKPdaK4_DHIGridCJ2bYbaKVLEkvRmJM-SS-dW_ihKWl08-_PHLboevDVnk7Dxl2O5DzTier9oU6JXgrWNajZ7nFGiLEjOlGH uB2E8yEY=w693-h923-no

A mechanic mate said I could borrow his flaring tool so hell yeah, saves me buying a tool I'll use once.

Picked it up and its a metric kit, and I think I need 1/4". FFS.

Ok fine, what ever, onto the next job until I source a tube flare kit.

Turbo oil drain.

Original plan was to use a -10an drain because I got a alumium flange off trademe that fit my turbo and was -10an.

Went to the HoseShop and got the bits to make the hose. Attached it to the previously made flange plate for the block.

..oh good, it fouls on the starter motor. Not just a bit too, there is bugger all chance of making that elbow fit or anything with a -10an nut on it. FFS!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UnFS2dqF2XE3jGHF_ZzE91ipcPbeNXjyJR1ixVlktvBVMSrQdn IvIwwzfkbSbbd8Y-k5xgTr50WAvoK0YTF-WDDVOGqvMzRiEp-QT4WcQ2Jrv6YSX8oinJSbyalmt0G0XBuYp4YCSqKdlCiMPqpRN UkgxTDSs0l5Y-QlIRS2vUjmV9YeG4x1J-PcfImqgXUfSTmkM-Dmq0o_UQBd8ASAU14oqlizOjFY0x4FW7fLqFaVwDGhO_Ef1929 Rtjo4TNb8kbmrbfkz1VNcZ0mxDrm87BCgNrCSJLH24BGclouDt Riw8dlaOuMe1nVikcZHewZm8hCHoTb34ziob5aN8_4GT5vrRwA lFgtNzKxEBPmh3BqlWVBIVxz_NN0Wf3c_dahwjmuNvVvLRWFWK oFDjZsVpWx89hFGwlqkeTT5YJ4ebh3GSe4K5I6X7HAiyhA3-N9PfxV1KpKcc3TPFe6Y3otO_cpiPQBkEIiyzQggx-sqY6YIT8P-f2AkvgDNAEC2WHiF6iWsCNt_i3f9LSGyAb0b5jS9OwdELkL9K2 1K9J7tP4=w693-h923-no

So, I need a new plan for the drain, I also need to buy a tube flare kit. Good times.

[steveG]

IMO a proper fitted hose for the drain isn't required. There's no pressure to deal with so a some decent hose, barbed or beaded fittings and a couple of clamps will do the job well. Bonus is that its much less bulky than hose fittings so easier to run.

Keep at it, you're getting close to the whistle, smoke and smile stage now :)

Steve

[BadCo.]

Yeah I'm thinking of grinding off the -10an fitting and welding or threading an elbow barb straight on it

Cheers SteveG

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[BadCo.]

So I thought I had better make some sort of progress this weekend. Earlier in the week I ordered some gauges from Aus (I'll keep them as a surprise for now :)) so I figured I should get the dash pod ready (I have had the 52mm holesaw sitting around for a while now haha)

Here is the base bracket mounted, I decided to put the additional screws in, being an Isuzu! Although it did come with sticky pads and the tabs you bend into the ash tray hole make it very secure. Can't be too cautious with all those rattles though!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ChDDmAHyrMJV8kexoMbZ8kd0h5G8Wi4-qVAADQjpHMRiM0JDjS7EdSZ9KJNhtWVZFRJtqHWZdMVwG54h22 7xajrbH-tSej_UFGgdz_Z8h9mKhxVBQC8BDEvhmashUdwFSAiKV5EdcN4r TaOs1rpx3gDlwSdEGyxcBr63pxKh4Y5Eqetr6Pa3auo0Q35Grj _3kw7K9yuQjYGUvrir-ema6FCqqtWGNKNuGtTPAv853emYAqKD1_UMUtB0cLdhUKcJbO7 7HDbzciPipSCG_iD2dx3b6WZkRUiBzZSj8jygt224e8QzMnHdM w9OVlsrOz5ltIRVF2GjXKzGL-78kvSRNtgh4YY-yQxDdki8I-eBiowMeZqSnzUnuRQ9GKh22Pp3j97YVxv-ptyCTDFd-DT9xFAPH9uj2GnUpFrsclneXP5DhqjaxafJgexHdzv_FfJt_vM ATGA7TthQK2VFRwA3R_EDPPdfFJn7JCTr5pkWucq8Jps48sNtU PeTJ-lLILcrCdAlGoLgf3YPVOs_XZBEujRI72KebBdMyDonj74TRag= w1080-h810-no

And then with the cover on. I might have mentioned earlier that I wanted the Raptor Dash Pod but their shipping was more then the pod itself, but then I found a reseller in Aus! Anyway, the mud pod is OK. The plastic is a little flimsy but the style actually suits the interior well. In future I might move the mud pod to the lower dash and put the bigger Raptor Dash Pod on the top.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NB930i4a1ibncNg1oWJpGoPC6aF4bWDmWEMWMf4gBMcezNpskM ny7WQcys4FDqGgOUDXgvc3xYxrBmRXlIYLIDMkfTpacFdt8ZCS VEem_Xy1ereWIWGiv8qFGK-ago8K-7NdTlFL9DrB1FQioT5wyCXTVcdfDEz9fnWiQ9Tteim7CcCcWJJ 1oJo4-xMHS6k4CAJIAAhGXkMMYaimgi4inn4ggR4uMJxu6WlokxnkyaT O2U75I6GjMHoWQ7xrZCTFJOr2-5bmt1LIf7-ZgmZSheAzvE5XQGumI2s3cGEt6LWek_Z_zz2BtFt1ATkDQMem3 owrK7XNoFoop2WgKx0nzjSUK_OaT8LtBwxDXyTNaGKjLoW0WNM eqNQK9tSZzOIaG34aoI5Vo-4IEmJkIQsjDXhHA5BW0TniGRakANiKxPxoaj6n09WLZPwo7-NaAMerBn_Krycb1Zc1OLlpsNjgfiPlP1p6fZvu1NkT1yhck-eIMY0hSW9nhC_50pm7WlGgQHFewzQ2ueZFEpC6iUW-GYIh7uU5LPR0wZW31udx0hQ=w1080-h810-no

Now the 'new to land rovers' question, how do I get cabling and pipework to the gauge pod via the ash tray?

[isuzurover]

So what is limiting the boost? I know nothing about this turbo (other then it is waste gated to 12psi) and don't want to risk destroying it with 20+psi.



I have a turbo from a Nissan SR20DET - so probably similar size to yours. It was wastegated to 9psi. I permanently closed the wastegate back in 2009 when I installed it. Boosts to 22psi. Engine and turbo are holding up fine...

One of the original isuzu turbos didn't have a wastegate.

[BadCo.]

I have a turbo from a Nissan SR20DET - so probably similar size to yours. It was wastegated to 9psi. I permanently closed the wastegate back in 2009 when I installed it. Boosts to 22psi. Engine and turbo are holding up fine...

One of the original isuzu turbos didn't have a wastegate.

I've seen your turbo, and it looks twice as big! How is it with boost? Is it boosting from idle or does it take a bit to spool?

Cheers for the info though.

PS. On a side note, on a boy racer site they state 15psi the max boost efficiency for your turbo.

[isuzurover]

PS. On a side note, on a boy racer site they state 15psi the max boost efficiency for your turbo.

People who rate turbos like that show their lack of understanding... It is not quite that simple...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/297.jpg
http://users.actrix.co.nz/dougal.ellen/forums/4BD1T%2024psi%20noic%20T28.jpg

However for normal driving I am sitting at 11 psi or less. Only when I am accelerating flat out up a hill will I hit 21/22.

The turbo spools early enough for my liking. Not far off idle.

Have you actually identified your turbo? It is hard to find out what was fitted to a VG20. Id there a garret id number on there?

[BadCo.]

I have no idea about this turbo. What I can find its similar to a RB20DET turbo.

RB20T
Comp Wheel 42x59
Comp Cover .50 a/r
Turbine Wheel 51x43
.4 a/r there abouts
around 250hp max

I really need to email Dougal...

[isuzurover]

I have no idea about this turbo. What I can find its similar to a RB20DET turbo.

RB20T
Comp Wheel 42x59
Comp Cover .50 a/r
Turbine Wheel 51x43
.4 a/r there abouts
around 250hp max

I really need to email Dougal...

That is quite small. Yes you probably want to keep the wastegate but try and set it to something sensible like 17 psi.
Is it a garrett turbo? There should be a tag on the turbo with the serial number????

e.g. it will look like 466541-1

[BadCo.]

Nope no tag. From what I understand its a Nissan turbo manufactured under license by garret.

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[Dervish]

Now the 'new to land rovers' question, how do I get cabling and pipework to the gauge pod via the ash tray?


Take the main gauge cluster off, or at least take the speedo cable off and push it as far out of the way as you can with all the rest of the wiring attached. Inside you'll see the windscreen heater pipe. At the top of that pipe and just behind it is an opening; feed a bit of reasonably stiff cable through there and you'll be able to grab it through the ashtray hole. You should be able to attach whatever you have to feed through to that cable with sticky tape and pull it back through to the binnacle.

[isuzurover]

I doubt Nissan would have licensed any turbo technology to Garrett. More likely the turbo may have been a specific variant built for Nissan.

From an old thread:






Garrett T2/T25 hybrid.
Exhaust A/R 0.49, 47mm turbine wheel.
Too small, good low rpm boost but over 3,000rpm was delivering drive pressures of 4x boost pressure.

Garrett T25 from Nissan bluebird with the CA18DET engine.
Exhaust A/R 0.49, 51.3mm (officially 52mm) compressor wheel, 53mm turbine.
Great low rpm turbo, boosts early and quickly and will cover the engines rpm range at 15psi boost with no intercooler. Raising the boost or intercooling reaches the flow limits at lower rpm which results in shortening of the power band.
Can deliver more boost than drive pressure.
Was delivering 17psi at 1400rpm and 20psi by 1800rpm.

The current GT2052 turbos are similar size (flow wise) to this T25.



http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/142686-turbos-work-4bd1.html

[BadCo.]

Take the main gauge cluster off, or at least take the speedo cable off and push it as far out of the way as you can with all the rest of the wiring attached. Inside you'll see the windscreen heater pipe. At the top of that pipe and just behind it is an opening; feed a bit of reasonably stiff cable through there and you'll be able to grab it through the ashtray hole. You should be able to attach whatever you have to feed through to that cable with sticky tape and pull it back through to the binnacle.

You are a gentleman and a scholar, cheers for that.


I doubt Nissan would have licensed any turbo technology to Garrett. More likely the turbo may have been a specific variant built for Nissan.

From an old thread:



http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/142686-turbos-work-4bd1.html

So its not looking too bad for this turbo then.

I mean, if it turns out ****, its an easy upgrade to the CA18DET or RB25 turbo.

[BadCo.]

Did some cute intake pipe work:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/293.jpg

I tried incorporating a length of ally tube the same size as a Type 19 WTA Intercooler (http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/long-flow-style-water-to-air-intercooler-p-219.html), but it just was not going to fit without serious modification.

[BadCo.]

Another job ticked of the list, finished the gearbox and transfer case breathers.

Found this upon removing the gearbox breather, has someone been putting the wrong oil in? It's red!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/268.jpg

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[BadCo.]

Presents!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/216.jpg

[Bearman]

Presents!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/198.jpg

Where's the tacho Badco?

[BadCo.]

Well...I only have a three gauge cluster and these already cost an arm and a leg. The most expensive thing so far on this budget build.

I'll do the tacho when I do the speedo and get a raptor console which will be when the exchange rate improves :)

[BadCo.]

A lot has been happening the last three nights. I haven't been to bed before midnight!

Here is a progress shot:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Hwq_m9TLl42Qt6ss2Ulnvs2fIoxln3FVkWreJ0OnRjiSdYsbzQ 1fi6n_eFcpVzzj7wARWYKBWfbnll6cYxzAyueWBOhXywxhZxde _3FOMURIzg-CrIQBXbr1dNvxIdBvYTkCmX-k60iY1FvyElMYIjw6aXrPb4n53-9m5R9evlZBgXGqhlLTJKp5j-_ldOTwe5UYSOQThqhG96KX12CGTJypNDdtOkPrYTpcfdUEOShs NwIZ-DT6jVxB3Ucd12cB8QLsNwnMg79F4uXkOHyCstU3QCRx4YxjatW _fYn7FZ8U65m48TMOhuUoRLdMlLKllDB5AbCKz5MDEgLUSVHgo GIv-qldWFujUgYEoO11jxm1dNfByuDfGb2T2gEJyOONPAphp4MLRFj xNEiZZM1VHT7OomVagv2m62pS70whydLcA9KJ03-QxTeeOTRvxj3cKsuf9648uGjhLZUIcVVodn_5SxGt77IUthhrc v8MWdlc3-3_uBJV_XydMFqHGQh46a17GB4Zdnn4ODKc7G5GLXShOw91AAPq BEt9ngwJFE4=w1080-h810-no

There is a few temporary things happening in there. Anybody know how much boost it takes to blow a cable tie off an 8mm line?

More details to come!

[steveG]

Looking great.

Not a big deal, but if you want it to breathe a bit better toss the corrugated hose to the air filter. Mine doesn't seem trip the filter indicator with the hose disconnected, but does as soon as connect it and load the engine up.
Was planning to replace it with some nice pipe and elbows, but hasn't happened yet.

Does the boost gauge have a restrictor in the line/gauge? With an 8mm line you might need one if you find the gauge flutters.

Steve

[BadCo.]

Looking great.

Not a big deal, but if you want it to breathe a bit better toss the corrugated hose to the air filter. Mine doesn't seem trip the filter indicator with the hose disconnected, but does as soon as connect it and load the engine up.
Was planning to replace it with some nice pipe and elbows, but hasn't happened yet.

Does the boost gauge have a restrictor in the line/gauge? Might need one if you find the gauge flutters.

Steve

Yeah mate, that will change once I finally get a snorkel and fit it.

Yup the gauge came with a restrictor and I threw it in there.

I'm not enjoying working with the mud pod, it's so flimsy and there is not sufficient room to connect the back lights.

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[BadCo.]

Fired it up last night after hooking up the gauges and positioning the catch can.

Took it for a run and it boosts 6 psi with stock fuel.

Did a half turn, went for a run, still 6 psi.

Did another full turn, went for a run, still 6 psi.

Unhooked wastegate, took it for a run, roared to 18 psi, 4th gear, up hill. What a beast! Hit 600 on the egt, so a bit of fine tuning to do.

I'll adjust the preload on the wastegate arm and get it to 15 psi I reckon.

Also had a bit of a mishap. On one lap around the block the oil pressure hose blew off, emptying the contents of the engine over a stretch of road and into the driveway. Then I dropped the cone in the grass trying to reattach it. So no oil pressure gauge until I get some spare parts.

I have a few photos to put still to illustrate how I did a few things.

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[Bearman]

Did you try a full turn of the screw Badco. That might give it a bit more and probably won't effect the egt's, if anything it might drop them a little. I would be aiming for 20psi boost and use your right foot instead of the wastegate. Lucky you noticed the oil problem!

[BadCo.]

Did you try a full turn of the screw Badco. That might give it a bit more and probably won't effect the egt's, if anything it might drop them a little. I would be aiming for 20psi boost and use your right foot instead of the wastegate. Lucky you noticed the oil problem!

Hey Bearman, I have edited my last post. I currently have 1.5 turns of the screw. Tonight I'll wind it back a half and adjust the wastegate to 15 psi and have a play with that, see how it goes.

I'm not sure what this turbo will handle in terms of boost, 12-15 psi might be the max.

We noticed the oil problem because the pressure gauge went to zero and the windscreen got a spray of oil haha

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[BadCo.]

Here is a little video of the start up
https://goo.gl/photos/UymgHsVRczTytRDQA


Gotta love that whistle!


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[Vern]

I found when tuning mine, I used a 2:1 ratio, 2 turns of the waste gate actuator rod to 1 turn of the fuel screw, then decreased this when I got close. Should build up boost rather quickly. I'd take that screw out at leas another turn.

[BadCo.]

Two and a half turns seems like a lot of fuel, did you have a boost you were aiming for or just going for max?

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[Judo]

It sure has a good whistle to it without any load! :cool:

[BadCo.]

I know right!

I'll get a video of it roaring up the hill after work haha

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[Paultan]

Good work Steve. Now when you going to put mine in ;);):D:D

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[isuzurover]

Remember when tuning diesels that more boost = lower EGTs. And more fuel can also mean more boost and lower EGTs.

For tuning purposes it may help to have the wastegate shut so you know if fuelling is limiting boost or not.

In my case I had the turbo on for quite a while with the load adjustment screw out 1 turn. EGT would easily hit 750 if I wasn't careful (with a load on and a hill or serious headwind).
I eventually turned the screw another turn and the EGT dropped about 100oC under average. Can't even hit 700oC now.

[Vern]

Two and a half turns seems like a lot of fuel, did you have a boost you were aiming for or just going for max?

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Currently out 3.5 turns, but with the new inter cooler it might come right out

[BadCo.]

Good work Steve. Now when you going to put mine in ;);):D:D

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I'll write you a shopping list and we'll get right into it!



Remember when tuning diesels that more boost = lower EGTs. And more fuel can also mean more boost and lower EGTs.

For tuning purposes it may help to have the wastegate shut so you know if fuelling is limiting boost or not.

In my case I had the turbo on for quite a while with the load adjustment screw out 1 turn. EGT would easily hit 750 if I wasn't careful (with a load on and a hill or serious headwind).
I eventually turned the screw another turn and the EGT dropped about 100oC under average. Can't even hit 700oC now.

Yup I know what you are saying, I have read similar things along those lines. The problem being I don't know what this turbo is cable of and I don't want to destroy it running high boost.


Currently out 3.5 turns, but with the new inter cooler it might come right out

Well I'll wind it out another turn then and see what effect this has haha. I have my local test hill, its small but I will be able to tell the difference in boost and EGT with different amounts of fuel.

With my test hill, can I tune to say, 600C unladen on the small hill and that will give me a buffer of 100-150C for being fuilly laden on a big hill climb? Or does it not work like that...

Cheers for your inputs guys!

[isuzurover]

... I don't want to destroy it running high boost.


...

You can't destroy a turbo that way.

[BadCo.]

You can't destroy a turbo that way.

Surge then? I'm new to turbos :S

[steveG]

Don't be scared to play around with it. In my experience it won't self destruct in a couple of seconds if you hit 750degC or 20psi.

IME, EGT will creep up slowly if you're loaded and foot to the floor for a few minutes, so even if you tune to XXXdeg you'll likely see over that if running flat out for an extended period.
Doesn't mean you have to tune super conservatively though. As Brian said, you can control the EGT with your right foot.

On the flat, I can go through the gears until I'm doing well over the legal speed and never get near 700deg. Load it up with a decent trailer/van and/or an incline and I can see 750deg after a couple of minutes if I'm not paying attention.
In that situation I drive with half an eye on the EGT guage and lift off the throttle or change down (whichever is appropriate) when its ~700

Not saying mine is particularly well tuned or that I know a huge amount about tuning, but its the best I got to after playing around with it for a while.
I'm also running with the wastegate wired shut which I know its not ideal, but its been very reliable, goes well and I've just never got round to moving on from that. Like the intercooler thats sitting on the shelf :angel:

In your situation I'd be aiming for 20psi and fuel it up until you're seeing visible smoke (as long as the EGT does't go stupid). Then play from there.

Steve

[isuzurover]

Surge then? I'm new to turbos :S

Sounds like you have been reading too much petrol turbocharging info. Diesels do not regulate airflow so it is not a problem.

The worst that could happen is you might blow a hose off if you didn't tighten all the hose clamps...

Boost does not hurt engines or turbos. It is heat that kills both usually. If you close the wastegate on a small turbo like that and overboost it, you will fall off the end of the compressor map and the turbo will be inefficient. That means it will generate lots of heat but little or no additional boost. Short term for testing purposes it will do no harm. Long term it could do some damage but we are talking long term (Hours or days) of driving.

[BadCo.]

Awesome, thanks for the info gents.

And I don't read about petrol turbos haha

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[BadCo.]

Tuning today!

With 1.5 turns up my test hill I'll hit 500C at 18 PSI in fourth gear. In third gear it will fly straight to 18 then drop back to 16ish until I change up to fourth.

With 2.5 turns I'll hit 600C at 20 PSI but I get a wierd spike before I am on full throttle.

There is smoke before boost but nothing once on boost.

I really need a better hill and another couple of eyes haha

[isuzurover]

2.5 turns may be too far. Do you have a trailer you can attach to the back to help with tuning? Or half a tonne of wood/bricks?

[BadCo.]

2.5 turns may be too far. Do you have a trailer you can attach to the back to help with tuning? Or half a tonne of wood/bricks?

Still only have the pintle and no army trailer and no large heavy object to load in the back. I'll try and source something during the week.

I think the clutch has started to slip now too. I've had issues trying to bleed it as well, not sure if it is related.

I'll half a turn back and see how that goes.

Here is a little video, its hard to record with one hand whilst driving haha

https://goo.gl/photos/jMrD4JMVtHHfPRqRA

[steveG]

With the clutch slip, make sure you've got sufficient free play at the top of the pedal travel. If not it won't release pressure out of the system properly.
Good chance it just can't cope with the torque though.

Steve

[BadCo.]

Went to get in the truck to go visit my brother, clutch straight to the floor. Its the third time it has done that now.

I might try a reverse bleed next.

[BadCo.]

In the interest of science (and for the supplier of the turbo) we wound the fuel up to 3.5 turns to find max boost of the turbo.

Unfortunately any amount of throttle caused the clutch to slip from 18+ PSI (even less when the clutch got warm). So back to tuning for the forest.

Unfortunately, again, it turns out the factory crimps the wastegate actuator onto the threaded rod. Needless to say, we broke it.

After a bit of faffing around we cut a bolt and used a few nuts and reattach the wastegate to find the spring can't handle more then 8 PSI. Ha.

So, aftermarket wastegate time. Hopefully I can source one before the 13th (which is the next trip to the forest).

[BadCo.]

So an adjustable wastegate from Kinugawa will cost NZD$210 delivered, so what would a turbo pressure plate cost? Can anyone chuck me a part number whilst I have a search?

[BadCo.]

Can anyone chuck me a part number whilst I have a search?

Found it in the Isuzu parts thread!

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[rovernutter]

Went to get in the truck to go visit my brother, clutch straight to the floor. Its the third time it has done that now.

I might try a reverse bleed next.
They are a mongrel to bleed. I tried reverse bleeding and worked better, but not as well as it should. I ended up removing the slave cylinder and made sure the bleed screw was at the top and then bleed it and then put the slave back on the car.

[BadCo.]

They are a mongrel to bleed. I tried reverse bleeding and worked better, but not as well as it should. I ended up removing the slave cylinder and made sure the bleed screw was at the top and then bleed it and then put the slave back on the car.

Hey rovernutter, thanks for the tip. When I replaced the slave a few months back I reverse bled it and it worked perfect first time. I'm curios how you got the slave higher then the master haha, is your line flexi all the way back to the master?

[Vern]

So an adjustable wastegate from Kinugawa will cost NZD$210 delivered, so what would a turbo pressure plate cost? Can anyone chuck me a part number whilst I have a search?

What spring is in the new wastegate actuator?

[BadCo.]

What spring is in the new wastegate actuator?

What ever you want Damian, you can choose from a drop down box.

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[Vern]

Sorry, I meant what did you choose?
I have a kinugawa Turbo with the 22psi spring

[rovernutter]

Hey rovernutter, thanks for the tip. When I replaced the slave a few months back I reverse bled it and it worked perfect first time. I'm curios how you got the slave higher then the master haha, is your line flexi all the way back to the master?

The reverse bleed seemed to get any air out of the line, but the bleed nipple on the slave is not at the top and I was sure that there was air still trapped in the cylinder. So i removed the slave, pumped the peddle a few times so that the cylinder came out, but not enough to come all the way out. Then I would loosen the bleed nipple and push the cylinder back in. That would force any air down there out the bleed nipple and not back up the line. Did this a couple of times. Got a lot better peddle afterwards.

I did not raise it any higher than the flexi hose would allow.

[BadCo.]

Sorry, I meant what did you choose?
I have a kinugawa Turbo with the 22psi spring

Ah sorry, I haven't ordered one yet. Its a. Expensive option.

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[BadCo.]

I'm thinking maybe a Turbosmart Boost Tee might help me overcome the wastegate spring issue and its cheaper then an adjustable wastegate. Thoughts?

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[Judo]

$210 seems a bit extreme - postage I guess? You should be fine to use any wastegate actuator if you can find a cheaper one locally. Even second hand. Not much can go wrong with it IMO. You might need to weld up an appropriate bracket for a different one, that's all.

[BadCo.]

Yeah USD$40 to ship.

You make a good point, this one for a SR20 should fit. I just try and avoid buying from Scarles though.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/990788964

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[Toxic_Avenger]

I'm thinking maybe a Turbosmart Boost Tee might help me overcome the wastegate spring issue and its cheaper then an adjustable wastegate. Thoughts?

I've used a cheap manual boost controller in my 300zx for a number of years before I went to an Turbosmart eBoost2.
The MBC limits what pressure the wastegate spring diaphragm 'sees', so can help delay boost creep.
The wastegate actuator is not all or nothing- a 20 psi spring will start to open well before 20psi, so limiting the pressure as best as possible with a MBC is a good idea.

[BadCo.]

I've used a cheap manual boost controller in my 300zx for a number of years before I went to an Turbosmart eBoost2.
The MBC limits what pressure the wastegate spring diaphragm 'sees', so can help delay boost creep.
The wastegate actuator is not all or nothing- a 20 psi spring will start to open well before 20psi, so limiting the pressure as best as possible with a MBC is a good idea.

Right so a MBC is only going to limit boost creep with the wastegate actuator and not actually increase the boost? Or does it limit creep and hence increase boost if you can adjust it enough?

I'm at 8 pounds with the factory actuator and spring and I only want to experiment with 10, 12 and maybe 15 pounds to see when the turbo stops being good haha. As 18PSI is clearly not in its happy place.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Right so a MBC is only going to limit boost creep with the wastegate actuator and not actually increase the boost? Or does it limit creep and hence increase boost if you can adjust it enough?

I'm at 8 pounds with the factory actuator and spring and I only want to experiment with 10, 12 and maybe 15 pounds to see when the turbo stops being good haha. As 18PSI is clearly not in its happy place.

So I might have given a bum steer.
Am I right in uderstanding you want to run maybe 15psi, but have a spring that is rated to 8psi? If so, you need a boost controller to keep the wastegate closed for longer.
The wastegate spring suffers from wastegate creep- ie where the spring is overcome by boost pressure before the 'rated' psi, and bleeds off boost-building exhaust gases before your desired boost pressure- this reduces performance.
The above, is also different to boost creep, which is when boost spikes above that of the desired boost level. This is bad as it cahn lead to an overboost situation, and cause engine damage.

Your second statement is sort of correct. A MBC will help to increase your boost, which somewhat assists with preventing wastegate creep - mainly through giving the engine more boost to use, while limiting the effect siad boost has on the wastegate. It will still be affected by wastegate creep, but to a lesser degree. The ducks nuts however, is variable (rising rate) electronic boost controllers which can alter how hard the boost comes on through a pulse width modulated boost solenoid- this would be a great option, but pricey. It basically uses an air solenoid to pulse boost to the wastegate actuator to confuse it into making more boost. It wil bleed off boost thru the boost pressure line to the actuator to build engine boost, and hold onto it to make the wastegate open.

On the other hand, boost creep- where you overboost, is mainly a function of the exhaust / turbo's ability to flow and bleed off boost via the wastegate. This could be due to too small a wastegate for the engine capacity (flow) or a restrictive exhaust which limits the ability of the wastegate to do its job.

Caveat 1- I'm not a professional, but my experience and understanding (could be wrong!) is that:


Your wastegate controls / throttles the engine boost by bypassing hot gases around the turbine wheel (and thus preventing further boost to be made on the cold side).
The wastegate actuator controls the actuation of the wastegate, using a pressure sensing diaphragm and a spring. The spring will be overcome at a boost where the pressure going into the actuator overcomes the spring pressure, and hence opens the wastegate. The spring is not all or nothing- there is wastegate creep that robs the engine of boost by bypassing gases before your desired boost pressure. This is a limitation of the spring.
The MBC / EBC controls the actuator via resisting boost pressure that the wastegate actuator diaphragm can see. This tricks the wastegate actuator spring to hold closed longer than the actual boost pressure would dictate. If you were to remove the boost lines going into the wastegate actuator, you'd see as much boost as the turbo could make, or the engine could handle before something gives up the ghost. Ideally you'd have some boost control in place before that stage!

The spring you use should match that boost fairly closely, or else the majority of the heavy lifting will be done by the EBC / MBC and this will run out of capacity if the variance is too big- which could lead to boost creep / overboost.
You can also bench test the wastegate actuators by using compressed air and an air pressure regulator to see at what pressure the wastegate starts to open.

[BadCo.]

So I might have given a bum steer.
Am I right in uderstanding you want to run maybe 15psi, but have a spring that is rated to 8psi? If so, you need a boost controller to keep the wastegate closed for longer.
The wastegate spring suffers from wastegate creep- ie where the spring is overcome by boost pressure before the 'rated' psi, and bleeds off boost-building exhaust gases before your desired boost pressure- this reduces performance.
The above, is also different to boost creep, which is when boost spikes above that of the desired boost level. This is bad as it cahn lead to an overboost situation, and cause engine damage.

Your second statement is sort of correct. A MBC will help to increase your boost, which somewhat assists with preventing wastegate creep - mainly through giving the engine more boost to use, while limiting the effect siad boost has on the wastegate. It will still be affected by wastegate creep, but to a lesser degree. The ducks nuts however, is variable (rising rate) electronic boost controllers which can alter how hard the boost comes on through a pulse width modulated boost solenoid- this would be a great option, but pricey. It basically uses an air solenoid to pulse boost to the wastegate actuator to confuse it into making more boost. It wil bleed off boost thru the boost pressure line to the actuator to build engine boost, and hold onto it to make the wastegate open.

On the other hand, boost creep- where you overboost, is mainly a function of the exhaust / turbo's ability to flow and bleed off boost via the wastegate. This could be due to too small a wastegate for the engine capacity (flow) or a restrictive exhaust which limits the ability of the wastegate to do its job.

Caveat 1- I'm not a professional, but my experience and understanding (could be wrong!) is that:


Your wastegate controls / throttles the engine boost by bypassing hot gases around the turbine wheel (and thus preventing further boost to be made on the cold side).
The wastegate actuator controls the actuation of the wastegate, using a pressure sensing diaphragm and a spring. The spring will be overcome at a boost where the pressure going into the actuator overcomes the spring pressure, and hence opens the wastegate. The spring is not all or nothing- there is wastegate creep that robs the engine of boost by bypassing gases before your desired boost pressure. This is a limitation of the spring.
The MBC / EBC controls the actuator via resisting boost pressure that the wastegate actuator diaphragm can see. This tricks the wastegate actuator spring to hold closed longer than the actual boost pressure would dictate. If you were to remove the boost lines going into the wastegate actuator, you'd see as much boost as the turbo could make, or the engine could handle before something gives up the ghost. Ideally you'd have some boost control in place before that stage!

The spring you use should match that boost fairly closely, or else the majority of the heavy lifting will be done by the EBC / MBC and this will run out of capacity if the variance is too big- which could lead to boost creep / overboost.
You can also bench test the wastegate actuators by using compressed air and an air pressure regulator to see at what pressure the wastegate starts to open.

Cheers for the read, it was good information!

[BadCo.]

Alright so I picked up an older Turbosmart MBC:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/618.jpg

Installed it:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/619.jpg

I got to 10 pounds, then the clutch started slipping. Yay.

Anyway, I need to do something about the clutch. I'm thinking the Extreme Clutch Kit (klr28003-1ax) or if that is expensive maybe just finding a turbo truck pressure plate for now.

[BadCo.]

Well this arrived today.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4_BlzsRMLZFWslpcewB9g7zUeFGTAlbs_r9Hu0ROZXoXx2z7FX YQbv9tDvTtb6f430Mjqbp8XpqPbL-W3YCXvsW97vkfAVcLEDJZ4zxlBnmuBc8VXJxVYALHZIZJZJQTL Sv5Sp1lOpJ7tX23qhL6I96C_hwJweMwYiilM1KBZ8bu4b0bqmZ KmfoFCCxY3ml-0KeMOGhxL_p6nouzQOUk_qCEpkmeBa_gpLNljK1Ud79qmTCZXg hH3r3tKmcy3jvBsdYQJ1k3mRZzWeMh6TJOESIDtDDqExkj9vXF km1DQhS1SrrRvo3Kp-6gXuB6dALpPkshMY6PR_WOUagvvva241Joiluwt3UCJA7Ow9Zb n6JktGyLZsmdvhcMUQGxvMwjW4PpNilxVQV2ASu7NPWPURJki7-FK7SiDUTcXY5i2P7Blmxgv7tIE-9NwuO0qJRCgAJbxRYLRI57kgBtOGKP5uMLw-OZbnBvq3TwWR3HKeMGFczB1lUdz1kvY7usR8R8Q4IPdNpuAFSm uSlYkBGeRiAmmFNyLaBulzB9rifMpsM2XUauaESmKQenuJ-FfmHqsVi4=w700-h933-no

Anybody have any tips? I have never done a clutch before haha. I have access to a 2 post hoist and gearbox jack, so no problems there.

Is there anything else I should do whilst the gearbox is out? I read a bit about a rear main seal?


Thanks in advance,

BadCo.

[Bearman]

If your Perentie is pretty standard it's easier to pull the engine rather than the gearbox, as long as you have access to an engine crane that will lift 400 odd kg. I would be replacing the rear main seal, spigot bush, clutch throwout (which should be in the kit) and checking the clutch fork pivot post for looseness and the front of the gearbox for oil leaks. Whew , that should keep you busy!!

[BadCo.]

If your Perentie is pretty standard it's easier to pull the engine rather than the gearbox, as long as you have access to an engine crane that will lift 400 odd kg. I would be replacing the rear main seal, spigot bush, clutch throwout (which should be in the kit) and checking the clutch fork pivot post for looseness and the front of the gearbox for oil leaks. Whew , that should keep you busy!!

I may have access to an engine crane. I'll look into the rear main seal and I think the kit came with a spigot bush (copper sleeve thing?)

Though in my head it seems it would be easier to remove a gearbox with a 2 post hoist and gearbox jack then a engine with a crane. In saying that I have done neither and I bet you have done a lot ;)

[steveG]

If you've never done a clutch before don't forget to use something to align the friction plate before bolting the pressure plate down. A bit of loctite on the pressure plate bolts, and if they look at all suss replace with new high tensile ones.

Edit: if you do drop the box instead of engine, they are a heavy bar steward, and the CofG not particularly obvious. Look it up so you don't get a surprise!!

Steve

[BadCo.]

What a mission!

We got the gearbox out last night and fly wheel off so I can get it machined today.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/60.jpg

Lots of oil everywhere, and are the flywheel bolts lock tighted?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/61.jpg

Oil coming from the rear main seal or gearbox?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RBzb6w-5JKlamCf3LWTK9W6nfB0HPIgzreRYfeBdzuKJjvidOrJU-XmoSU8yiN7PWfAJ5ZD9uJY4fuGDe6KnxVxiJUJf9GpKa7q6WDS rtpbCgetLpBra2ItcweiJLd4sjYBbCoEahe2Qx5Uj6X-_IFR8ZC9jVXi7awtRvgVUQ0lhgaaU9F0zeJeDeOilJYh9H-ohPtxAHu6B7kTY-MNdArtADQ7zgOvYoCdOx4GG22quapPmRx7b2e-z62toujbEAFF6z8dtBG3JhlM0i9iU5bD0PVymuTCAVxKQYU-5wr4_z-VMuk8B6Ds0lIJcgMzldWBhXPjCFZgGrBUkfcM-EUefOpwL4P2YFBt9Lics-6pS_XGOweliDVZ-gal_BM6VJfdz9YnKfrl51u86_m2ghHkyCA-ycLx2uIWrIWZj4c3pB3HUtc5Ao2dy7aZ6Vh9lGS2BasqmcW3oC 36t3BJltL210dzUBB3hlDxjw-Dw3ZziAabN_RiYuBaEYSZrLDCB-TPmUG-WmGDLPx3Wf_EUetIoGBh5A3rA8y5kLtc-3H_KjRG5jCX7Cm-6nr-1rEgg7gxG=w1077-h808-no

Surprisingly the old clutch didn't look too bad, still lots of meat and starting to show signs of slippage. Forgot to take a photo sorry.

Also the fingers on the pressure plate were all even. About a third of them were sitting lower then the rest. Something to be worried about?

[BadCo.]

Ordered rear main seal NZD$102.43

Part Number 1-09625402-0

Struggling with the parts Bearman suggested, nothing aftermarket around here and no Landy spares places are open until the 11th.

R576723
R5766203
R571161

[Bearman]

Ordered rear main seal NZD$102.43

Part Number 1-09625402-0

Struggling with the parts Bearman suggested, nothing aftermarket around here and no Landy spares places are open until the 11th.

R576723
R5766203
R571161

I would cancel that seal order. That is the old style rear main seal and won't last as long as the one you already have in there, which is the later type 2 piece (BYG2767) seal. I would have a good look at the one in there and see if you think is has been leaking before changing it out. That oil in the bellhousing could be all coming from the gearbox. Have a look at the rear of the flywheel and you should be able to see if any oil has been coming from the rear main seal. Probably need to take the input housing off replace the input shaft seal and oil control ring and replace the oil pump if it is not the later metal one. The oil pump cover plate should be checked for straightness as well and linish it if it needs it then make sure you seal around all the studs and nuts when you put it back together (both input housing and oil pump housing cover) What parts are you struggling with?
You should replace the clutch plate and put a turbo pressure plate in while you are at it otherwise you will have slippage.

[BadCo.]

I would cancel that seal order. That is the old style rear main seal and won't last as long as the one you already have in there, which is the later type 2 piece (BYG2767) seal. I would have a good look at the one in there and see if you think is has been leaking before changing it out. That oil in the bellhousing could be all coming from the gearbox. Have a look at the rear of the flywheel and you should be able to see if any oil has been coming from the rear main seal. Probably need to take the input housing off replace the input shaft seal and oil control ring and replace the oil pump if it is not the later metal one. The oil pump cover plate should be checked for straightness as well and linish it if it needs it then make sure you seal around all the studs and nuts when you put it back together (both input housing and oil pump housing cover) What parts are you struggling with?
You should replace the clutch plate and put a turbo pressure plate in while you are at it otherwise you will have slippage.

There was oil all over the adapter plate but not the back of the fly wheel. Now that I think about it, when I first removed the drain bung there was red trans oil in it, and same in the gearbox breather.

My notes show the seal I ordered as the 'new type'

[Bearman]

There was oil all over the adapter plate but not the back of the fly wheel. Now that I think about it, when I first removed the drain bung there was red trans oil in it, and same in the gearbox breather.

My notes show the seal I ordered as the 'new type'

That number is the old type seal
Isuzu 4BD1 Land Rover Perentie Rear Crankshaft Seal 1096254020 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141851763468'ssPageName=STRK:MESOX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1559.l2649)

[BadCo.]

Crap I hope I can return it for the later seal. Is there an Isuzu part number for the later type seal? Those BYG and AYG numbers are no good in NZ.

[Bearman]

Rear Crankshaft Seal Suitable FOR Land Rover 110 Perentie Isuzu 4BD1 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-Crankshaft-Seal-suitable-for-Land-Rover-110-Perentie-ISUZU-4BD1-/321938531883?hash=item4af508262b:g:nWUAAOSw5VFWJNQ 7)

Why not just get this one off ebay or I can buy it and forward on to you if you can't.

[BadCo.]

Rear Crankshaft Seal Suitable FOR Land Rover 110 Perentie Isuzu 4BD1 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-Crankshaft-Seal-suitable-for-Land-Rover-110-Perentie-ISUZU-4BD1-/321938531883?hash=item4af508262b:g:nWUAAOSw5VFWJNQ 7)

Why not just get this one off ebay or I can buy it and forward on to you if you can't.

Ideally I need something from Isuzu so I can swap the incorrect seal. How about the 6BD1 seal and wear sleeve?

[Bearman]

Ideally I need something from Isuzu so I can swap the incorrect seal. How about the 6BD1 seal and wear sleeve?

As far as I know the new type seal was made by SKF bearings for Land Rover at the request of the ADF because of the number of leaking seals. Isuzu had no input into it so you cannot get that part (BYG2767) from them. What is the 6BD1 seal you mention, I would have thought they would be the same as the 4BD1.

[BadCo.]

As far as I know the new type seal was made by SKF bearings for Land Rover at the request of the ADF because of the number of leaking seals. Isuzu had no input into it so you cannot get that part (BYG2767) from them. What is the 6BD1 seal you mention, I would have thought they would be the same as the 4BD1.

Good info, thanks Bearman.

6BD1 seal reference here:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/112158-another-county-isuzu-conversion-4.html#post1352548

Part numbers:
1-09625439-1 number for seal also see GM 94056827
5-12319003-3 number for wear ring also see GM 94038706

[steveG]

Good info, thanks Bearman.

6BD1 seal reference here:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/112158-another-county-isuzu-conversion-4.html#post1352548

Part numbers:
1-09625439-1 number for seal also see GM 94056827
5-12319003-3 number for wear ring also see GM 94038706

Just letting you know those parts have now done approx 50K kms in my county, and no issues so far.
I had a mate try to chase some up a few weeks back (through the same place where I got mine) but was having some issues. Haven't caught up with him since to find out if he managed to get them.
The wear ring was still available online last time I checked about 12months ago.

Steve

[BadCo.]

Just letting you know those parts have now done approx 50K kms in my county, and no issues so far.
I had a mate try to chase some up a few weeks back (through the same place where I got mine) but was having some issues. Haven't caught up with him since to find out if he managed to get them.
The wear ring was still available online last time I checked about 12months ago.

Steve

Good to know, thanks for that Steve.

[Chris J]

The seal you already have in engine is supposed to be the good one & requires a special tool to be installed, I would be looking at the gearbox input seal & oil pump cover plate.

My cover plate required a lot of lapping I used a piece of glass (spare sliding window) wet & dry & kero, also be really careful with the input seal I damaged mine so had to pull the motor out again.

[BadCo.]

That'll be a job for next time I take the box out.

I'm short on time and resources at tye moment.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[steveG]

Was there any oil on the old clutch plate?
If not, since you're short on time just check the bolts on the cover plate ( maybe remove/clean them and refit with loctite) and throw it back together.
Both boxes I've pulled out had loose bolts (not much more than finger tight) in the cover plate.

Steve

[BadCo.]

Clutch plate was perfect. I'll check the bolts and what not, cheers.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[BadCo.]

So this seal is no good?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/976.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/977.jpg

[BadCo.]

What the hell? Spigot bush is also too big.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[BadCo.]

What the hell? Spigot bush is also too big.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103677&stc=1&d=1451616428

[Bearman]

It's not that it's no good but the later type like what is already in yours are a better seal. The original one like you have just bought are prone to leaking prematurely. And the clutch throwout bearing on the left is the correct one, the one on the right is for a V8 gearbox. It won't work in the Isuzu bellhousing.

[BadCo.]

Damn it, i guess the spigot bush is wrong too.

I specifically got the 4bd1t with 4 speed box clutch kit.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[rar110]

It's not that it's no good but the later type like what is already in yours are a better seal. The original one like you have just bought are prone to leaking prematurely. And the clutch throwout bearing on the left is the correct one, the one on the right is for a V8 gearbox. It won't work in the Isuzu bellhousing.

Brian
Can the steel sleeve on the left hand bush be fitted to the v8 bush?

[BadCo.]

Brian
Can the steel sleeve on the left hand bush be fitted to the v8 bush?

Looking at it, it looks like it can be done. How ever I need to do this all over again to fix the bits in the gearbox so I'll get in contact with ACS and get them to send me the right parts.

[Bearman]

Brian
Can the steel sleeve on the left hand bush be fitted to the v8 bush?

Yes, easy enough to do with a press. Just have to be careful not to destroy the plastic bit and Loctite it together when you reassemble it.

[BadCo.]

It's not that it's no good but the later type like what is already in yours are a better seal. The original one like you have just bought are prone to leaking prematurely. And the clutch throwout bearing on the left is the correct one, the one on the right is for a V8 gearbox. It won't work in the Isuzu bellhousing.

On closer inspection I saw that the currently installed seal is the BYG one, good spotting Bearman and thanks for your help.

The gearbox is back in and tomorrow I have the cross member and propshafts and a few small things to do before turning up the boost and fuel and heading to Woodhill on Sunday.

[BadCo.]

Small up date, the clutch works well, no slippage. Exhaust is done, yay and I have adjusted the MBC so I can get 12 psi, EGTs are a little high now so I'll add a bit more fuel and see how we go.

On a side note, does anyone know anything about the pedal stop screw? Someone was saying he wound his out three full turns. Thoughts?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/677.jpg

Currently I have 14mm of exposed thread.

[Phil B]

Badco
That's your fuel screw
How is your performance?
Better, great or huge!!

[BadCo.]

Badco
That's your fuel screw
How is your performance?
Better, great or huge!!

Hey Phil, that's the top of the fuel pump. The top screw is the throttle stop and the bottom one is the idle screw.

Performance off road in low range is amazing. On road high range is definitely an improvement but it feels like it lacks top end.

It's still hitting 600c too easily though and the engine bay, especially the intake manifold, get very warm.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[BadCo.]

Will a snorkel and a vent cut in on the left hand guard behind the wheel help me with EGTs?

I was thinking something like this...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/144905-defender-engine-bay-heat-lh-guard-vent-2.html#post1870380

[steveG]

The one you're calling the "throttle stop" is the "Full speed set bolt" according to the Isuzu injection pump manual.

Its used to adjust maximum governed RPM. I would leave it alone for now.

Edit: - Re EGTs - definitely try more boost. See if you can get 15-18psi and see how its behaving then. Mine definitely feels like its lacking top end as you describe, but it does pull well lower down. I'm not sure that they ever feel strong at the top. The others I've driven I haven't pushed to the governor to see (bit anti-social to drive borrowed vehicles like they are stolen, and you can't hire any for "testing" ;) )

Steve

[Vern]

Need more boost. 600 egt's isn't that high depending on where the probe is.
Agree with Steve, you want at least 15psi boost

[rar110]

Need more boost. 600 egt's isn't that high depending on where the probe is. Agree with Steve, you want at least 15psi boost

600 pre turbo maybe not. Post turbo you can smell it.

[BadCo.]

Need more boost. 600 egt's isn't that high depending on where the probe is.
Agree with Steve, you want at least 15psi boost

It's pre turbo and it would have gone higher if I didnt come off the throttle.

I'll keep winding the boost tap out then until I hit 15.

Cheers!

[Vern]

Mine hits over 700 regularly and 28psi from a na motor, you still have plenty to go😊

[Judo]

Mine hits over 700 regularly and 28psi from a na motor, you still have plenty to go😊
Coming up in tonight's news: RRC confiscated under Victorian hoon laws.

:D

[BadCo.]

Mine hits over 700 regularly and 28psi from a na motor, you still have plenty to go😊

Different turbo though. The turbo will be my limiting factor. From memory you are running a Kinugawa TD04?

When I had an open waste gate and 18 psi it felt like less power then at 8 psi.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Vern]

Different turbo though. The turbo will be my limiting factor. From memory you are running a Kinugawa TD04?

When I had an open waste gate and 18 psi it felt like less power then at 8 psi.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app
What turbo are you running?
Yes td04, its nothing special, just works

[BadCo.]

What turbo are you running?
Yes td04, its nothing special, just works

Nissan turbo from a VG20.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Vern]

At 18psi did you have fuel? Egt's?

[BadCo.]

At 18psi did you have fuel? Egt's?

2.5 turns from memory EGTs hitting 600's

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Vern]

I found it was a bit trickier than just winding the fuel out, mine was originally 22psi and screw out 2 turns or so, it was horrible! Mate helped me tune it just buy driving it and watching the boost egt gauges and then making small adjustments, wound the wastegate actuator in a bit the slowly added fuel until it would hit max boost really quick then just small adjustments after that, for every 1 turn on the actautor we did half turn on the fuel.
This knocked 10sec off 0-100 times! (27 sec down to 17sec, no supercar😊)

[BadCo.]

Yeah now that I have the clutch sorted I probably should start from scratch again

How fine were you adjustments near the end? Quarter turns? Eighth turns?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Vern]

1/2 to 1/4.

[Vern]

Mind you stephen, i have to re tune mine again, egt's have dropped by 100 with the new water air intercooler. But will wait until the new motor goes in.

[steveG]

Mind you stephen, i have to re tune mine again, egt's have dropped by 100 with the new water air intercooler. But will wait until the new motor goes in.


Thats a nice improvement. Maybe you will be able to pull the 1.003 gearing better once it's tweaked a bit more.

Steve

[Vern]

I think so, am hating the 1.222 case.
Might look into a few mods for the new engine other than basic fuel amd boost

[rar110]

I found it was a bit trickier than just winding the fuel out, mine was originally 22psi and screw out 2 turns or so, it was horrible! Mate helped me tune it just buy driving it and watching the boost egt gauges and then making small adjustments, wound the wastegate actuator in a bit the slowly added fuel until it would hit max boost really quick then just small adjustments after that, for every 1 turn on the actautor we did half turn on the fuel. This knocked 10sec off 0-100 times! (27 sec down to 17sec, no supercardde0a)

I agree. It's not as simple as more fuel. On mine a little less was smoother, quieter, better over all.

[BadCo.]

I was tinkering a bit on friday before I got reported and pulled over by the cops.

I wound the boost out to twenty and it went much better and 50c cooler but also it didn't heat up as rapidly.

Shall I try for 25 pounds?

[steveG]

Personally I wouldn't without an intercooler, but as long as your egts's are under control there's probably no real technical reason.
Unknown history turbo though....

Steve

[BadCo.]

The turbo seems to max out at 22 PSI. Wound the fuel and the boost tee out but it wouldn't give any more.

Then I blew a hose off, holy crap that gave me a fright!

So I think I'll wind it back to 20 pounds and tune the fuel from there.

[BadCo.]

So I've been reading about Nissan turbos and supposedly they have ceramic turbines that can't handle more then 14psi.

Should I be worried or is this another petrol issue...


Cheers

[BadCo.]

Aaaand I'm back!

I was never really happy with this turbo. It did spool quick but ran out fast and seemed to be a huge restriction. EGTs were always a concern and I could never get it tuned right.

Enter, the HX30W...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/980.jpg

Purchased from eBay for rather cheap, I figured what the hell, I'll have a crack. I won't be intercooling again, the added cost is outside of this current budget (budget of 1k for installation),

Now to make this work...

1. Oil feed, will my existing -4an be enough or will I need to go to a -6an? I am having trouble answering this...

2. Oil drain, I'll be upsizing this to 19mm or 3/4" or -12an from my previous -10.

I will be sourcing a drain flange from KLR to replace my modified one. Then a aluminium 19mm hose Barb flange (https://trademe.co.nz/1401787626) for the turbo.

3. Exhaust. The v band on the Holset is a odd ball 2.75" size, so I have ordered a new flange from eBay with a 3" v-band. (http://m.ebay.com/itm/Downpipe-Turbo-Flange-3-0-V-band-Kit-Fits-Cummins-Holset-WH1C-HX35-HX35W-HX40-/132284578365?_trkparms=aid%253D222007%2526algo%253 DSIM.MBE%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D20150519202348%2 526meid%253D8bc05ed6e1c143c4b653aa6c91db3192%2526p id%253D100408%2526rk%253D2%2526rkt%253D8%2526sd%25 3D131699337442&_trksid=p2056116.c100408.m2460)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/981.jpg

Then I need to adapt it to the existing 3" dump pipe. I purchased an additional V-Band for this (I wish I had known about V-Band earlier!)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/982.jpg

4. Intake: this should be easy, remove previous reducer and use a straight 3" silicone hose.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/983.jpg

5. Outlet: Again another easy one. The turbo came with a v band elbow to 2.5". So, remove previous reducer and hopefully it should pipe up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/984.jpg

I'm waiting for a few things in the post, so will hopefully get this upgrade started in the next couple of weeks.

Have I missed anything? Let me know!

[Toxic_Avenger]

It's red. I'm guessing it goes fast [bigwhistle]

[BadCo.]

It's red. I'm guessing it goes fast [bigwhistle]

I hope so!

My boss just got a new turbo and tune for his RB25DET Patrol, it's so cute haha. It will be interesting to compare, I think he is around 220HP at the wheels.

[BadCo.]

I also found these in the Holset manual confirming drain size. Anyone good with math and can figure out the size of the oil supply?


11. Oil return pipes are permitted to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal. All turbocharger applications require a pipe of internal diameter greater than 19 mm which has integrated connectors. To ensure oil drains into the engine under all operating conditions, the return connection into the engine sump must not be submerged and the outlet flange of the turbocharger must be 50 mm above the maximum oil level of the engine sump pan.



15. Recommended oil flows for the turbochargers are 2 litre/min at idle and 3 litre/min above maximum torque speed.


Also interesting to note:


16. Do not use liquid gasket substances or thread sealant as any excess can enter the turbocharger oil system to obstruct flow.

[Vern]

Don't expect 220hp at the wheels[emoji4]

[BadCo.]

Don't expect 220hp at the wheels[emoji4]

What are the pumps good for? 250hp at the crank?

[Vern]

What are the pumps good for? 250hp at the crank?Theoretically 300hp

[BadCo.]

A bit of an update, I finally had a day spare to have a good crack at it.https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/342.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/343.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/344.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/345.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/346.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/347.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/348.jpg

[BadCo.]

Still need to finish the exhaust and also fix the mechanical oil pressure gauge line I melted.

[BadCo.]

A quick video of a test run, just before I blew the gauge line.

Test Run (https://photos.app.goo.gl/z1MGllpySNmdXvc93)

This is with factory wastegate and only 1.5 turns of the screw.

[BadCo.]

Removed the rack limiter bolt, bloody thing is a rocket now! It was a bitch to remove, I had to get the fuel filter bracket off so I could remove the fuel line banjo bolt next to the bolt cover. What a mission!

It was boosting off the gauge again (30+) so had to wind the boost tap down.

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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C0pTF8TsoyuWVRxb_Ly8erwQvAwT6uxPoHqxRVetCffv1QbgaI M3uZH5axnT9j_xucgHIyCsficjQHEqpO7npiPeCWLyJFBRGxqa pze5ZKIGIzUkJ2gBw-zNEIsj-k-7_K0qvEA-C4uicyDczOcgqFxPTDY0iyhFssFIcqS-6ww7TzARw6kx-Ku28W0JXrHMSN9-ySOHnpr2saAJ6fqd4eovnigZOy75ykE3I6FBmLBu5pGSaf2Vwc 1IUB10K9oTW7qVVjCGl39rhhl9IqzHl77RLDrbD9Ox574Z0AAa Fg9Bo1twRHtaEvUmwXv37vmtPzNvhKEDsS7JNBkuLjPvrYCuh9 6PPnxVRrIHr1LsgaihJG7z2E6v99dqgwLpurlReWZtXsAN8rSy FKSQdktdId9F6wXQVSonULkk73LcpTSlOmZb1Y9oeqfRktpRL9 SIAb_4EqGB6Au8w9JCJRS8lJrH2bC5K1lZTCSzriplI7dcyFHO jUDMEEvdrC4dabL-OeJcy0h54M7AeyLmZwEh1J3StRcy3Mgs5LMmnHj1UeYfXnniZC zjtvcLTLghCrBaVMuUdalpQgs35Jvm5AYCMdo8gcq_CB6kfGQr Ev7y0A=w958-h539-k-no