ARB CMK Compressor/ Traxide setup

[b.anzellotti]

Hi all,
I have a 2010 Disco 4 HSE that is the 3.0, went to ARB today to look at fitting a compressor. They were wanting to mount in front of battery but i want to use that spot for the Traxide setup. I have seen some mounted on the drivers side but when we took the plastic cover off it seemed as though not enough room.

Any suggestions? I'd like to not mount inside car as just about everytime I left the beach and went to air up my Patrol one of the kids would be sleeping. Outside was ok and didn't wake the monsters. But not sure how noisy it would be for kids in car while airing up.

Also any thoughts on the trade kit. Like which one to get? Just would like to be able to run a fridge at beach and when I go on trips and maybe have the possibility of inverter mounted somewhere to charge laptop and such. Anybody have a good clean mounting location for outlet?



Thanks guys


O, and I have tried searching but either Safari for Mac is crazy or its my computer. Page just stays blank..

[Graeme]

Have a look at this thread.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/102180-clearing-d4-aux-battery-tray.html

[LRD414]

Traxide Kit. I think you want the D4-5S kit. This provides good power to the rear, both a 2nd cig plug outlet and an Anderson plug to the outside rear in with the trailer plugs.

This allows running a fridge and an inverter in the inside rear, plus option to charge from solar panel or connect to a camper as well (outside rear).

Add your own lead if you want the inverter mounted in the front. Under the passenger seat is an excellent spot unless you have factory accessories already mounted there.

For example, I ran my UHF power spliced from the supplied Traxide cable to rear, run back to the front where UHF mounts. Provides permanent power rather than accessory power.

Cheers,
Scott

[LandyAndy]

Buy the D3 Traxide kit,the aux battery does fit in the factory location on the drivers side using a factory battery supplied with the kit,no drilling etc;);););).I have the D3 kit in mine,you can then fit the compressor next to the main battery.
Andrew

[sctsprin]

I have a 2010 D4 HSE and put the compressor in the drivers side box, fits nicely
I'll send photos tonight if i remember

[b.anzellotti]

Thanks for the response. Pics would be great.
Traxide dealer gave me a ring and was pretty damn nice answering all my questions and had good suggestions.
Cant wait to get all this set up..
I keep finding myself going for drives for no reason. So much more pleasant to be in than my Patrol was.. Im sold..

[LandyAndy]

Thanks for the response. Pics would be great.
Traxide dealer gave me a ring and was pretty damn nice answering all my questions and had good suggestions.
Cant wait to get all this set up..
I keep finding myself going for drives for no reason. So much more pleasant to be in than my Patrol was.. Im sold..

Tim is a really helpful bloke,his gear is top quality too.
If you PM me your email addy I will send you the instalation instructions,plenty of pics in there.Will convince you that you can DIY,I did.
Dont go telling Pootrol drivers how good it is,they wont believe you:):):):)
ENJOY
Andrew

[LRD414]

Thanks for the response. Pics would be great.
Traxide dealer gave me a ring and was pretty damn nice answering all my questions and had good suggestions.
Cant wait to get all this set up..
I keep finding myself going for drives for no reason. So much more pleasant to be in than my Patrol was.. Im sold..

And he will support you through the DIY install as required too.

Here's where the Traxide kit goes if you go the D4-5S option and put compressor on driver's side.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/812.jpg


Because the Traxide kit wiring runs down the passenger side via the rear storage compartment, you have easy access to splice in an extra lead for inverter or UHF or whatever.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/220.jpg


Btw, here's my thoughts on the whole setup and install process:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/2420644-post3.html

I'm still looking for reasons to go for a drive and it's been nearly a year now.

Cheers,
Scott

[sctsprin]

Heres some pics of the ARB compressor

[b.anzellotti]

thanks for the pics, looks nice like that
the white piece at the top, is that fitting for air line?

[sctsprin]

Yep, dust cap for air fitting


thanks for the pics, looks nice like that
the white piece at the top, is that fitting for air line?

[LandyAndy]

From memory,back when we had a Classic Rangie with the same ARB pump,any soft drink bottle lid fits as a dust cap;););););)
Andrew

[Kieren]

Yep, dust cap for air fitting


Thinking of doing the same install but not sure if you need to try and seal the hole around the air fitting. Have you sealed around the hole? Does the hole in the top of the cover let in much dust or water into the box?

[sctsprin]

I've had it that way for a year with almost no sand etc getting in
I might put a bit of self adhesive foam or silicon on it at some stage just in case though.


Thinking of doing the same install but not sure if you need to try and seal the hole around the air fitting. Have you sealed around the hole? Does the hole in the top of the cover let in much dust or water into the box?

[Kieren]

Thanks, definitely a neat install and easy to use.

[Melbourne Park]

Heres some pics of the ARB compressor

sctsprin, this is brilliant.

I assume I could have done the same with my 2014 ... but its gone into the same as most others do, on the passenger side in front of the main battery.

Your installation also puts the battery further back, which is a good thing IMO.

IMO there isn't room in my engine bay for a compressor.

However ... I bought the ARB single compressor, and was told that the unit I bought would fit in the engine bay ... but I now realise that I'd prefer the twin compressor kit that comes with a tank. I may like being able to spray air from the tank, and maybe have an air tool while on the road. But the twin pumps up the tyres twice as fast which is a substantial benefit.

There is an issue too with towing a trailer - namely, you need for an ARB unit, two links of that orange ARB pneumatic cable, because you have to get from the battery terminals where the compressor is connected to, all the way to the trailer wheels. So you need the extra length of pneumatic cable. Plus typically an air pressure hand control device. So, if you have a compressor in the vehicle, you still need to store the two cables, plus the hand control device. They actually take up quite a bit more space than the compressor does. So, IMO there is little space saving provided by putting a compressor into the engine bay.

It's a shame Land Rover don't have an air pipe from their own air pump - that pump would be fairly powerful too!!!

But for me, I think I'll sell my 6 month old ARB compressor, and buy the costly twin pump kit with the air tank. With 6 wheels to pump up, I reckon there's more utility in having twice the air pumping capacity, and the air tool capability may come in handy, perhaps.

[sctsprin]

Cheers

I wanted the twin pump as well, but there was no where to fit it easily, i wonder if a vaiiair system with their skinny tanks would fit under the car on the drivers side?

I have two hoses for convenience, and can fit the two hoses, inflator, deflator and other bits and pieces such as an air nozzle in the two storage units in boot under the windows as i don't have the DVD player. so they're always with me.

Mitchell brothers make an adaptor that allows you to plumb into the OEM air tank, i'd probably keep that for emergencies just in case the ARB failed though.

I use my single pump ARB with an air nozzle to clean out my rims of sand before i hit the highway, otherwise i get terrible shaking from out of balance wheels.



sctsprin, this is brilliant.

I assume I could have done the same with my 2014 ... but its gone into the same as most others do, on the passenger side in front of the main battery.

Your installation also puts the battery further back, which is a good thing IMO.

IMO there isn't room in my engine bay for a compressor.

However ... I bought the ARB single compressor, and was told that the unit I bought would fit in the engine bay ... but I now realise that I'd prefer the twin compressor kit that comes with a tank. I like the idea of being able to spray does away from things while on the road. And the twin pumps up the tyres faster.

There is an issue too with towing a trailer - namely, you need for an ARB unit, two links of that orange ARB pneumatic cable. Plus typically an air pressure hand control device. So, if you have a compressor in the vehicle, you still need to store the two cables, plus the hand control device. They actually take up more space than the compressor does. So, IMO there is little space saving provided by putting a compressor into the engine bay.

It's a shame Land Rover don't have an air pipe from their own air pump - that pump would be fairly powerful too!!!

But for me, I think I'll sell my 6 month old ARB compressor, and buy the costly twin pump kit with the air tank. With 6 wheels to pump up, I reckon there's more utility in having twice the air pumping capacity, and the air tool capability may come in handy, perhaps.

[SBD4]

If you are worried about access back to the trailer with a fixed install under the bonnet, you could do what "Terry'O" did. He ran permanent air lines to the front and back of the vehicle. Means he never has to open the hood and it's a quick snap on with the hose at the front or back for what ever task is at hand. Very convenient!


sctsprin, this is brilliant.

I assume I could have done the same with my 2014 ... but its gone into the same as most others do, on the passenger side in front of the main battery.

Your installation also puts the battery further back, which is a good thing IMO.

IMO there isn't room in my engine bay for a compressor.

However ... I bought the ARB single compressor, and was told that the unit I bought would fit in the engine bay ... but I now realise that I'd prefer the twin compressor kit that comes with a tank. I may like being able to spray air from the tank, and maybe have an air tool while on the road. But the twin pumps up the tyres twice as fast which is a substantial benefit.

There is an issue too with towing a trailer - namely, you need for an ARB unit, two links of that orange ARB pneumatic cable, because you have to get from the battery terminals where the compressor is connected to, all the way to the trailer wheels. So you need the extra length of pneumatic cable. Plus typically an air pressure hand control device. So, if you have a compressor in the vehicle, you still need to store the two cables, plus the hand control device. They actually take up quite a bit more space than the compressor does. So, IMO there is little space saving provided by putting a compressor into the engine bay.

It's a shame Land Rover don't have an air pipe from their own air pump - that pump would be fairly powerful too!!!

But for me, I think I'll sell my 6 month old ARB compressor, and buy the costly twin pump kit with the air tank. With 6 wheels to pump up, I reckon there's more utility in having twice the air pumping capacity, and the air tool capability may come in handy, perhaps.

[Melbourne Park]

Cheers

I wanted the twin pump as well, but there was no where to fit it easily, i wonder if a vaiiair system with their skinny tanks would fit under the car on the drivers side?

I have two hoses for convenience, and can fit the two hoses, inflator, deflator and other bits and pieces such as an air nozzle in the two storage units in boot under the windows as i don't have the DVD player. so they're always with me.

Mitchell brothers make an adaptor that allows you to plumb into the OEM air tank, i'd probably keep that for emergencies just in case the ARB failed though.

I use my single pump ARB with an air nozzle to clean out my rims of sand before i hit the highway, otherwise i get terrible shaking from out of balance wheels.

The Mitchell brothers setup sounds interesting ... but my vehicle still has 4 years of warranty to go, and I am unsure whether using such a device might effect my air pump warranty ...

As far as storage goes ... an issue for me is red dust. When I fill the tyres, my hose lies along the road, and it gets dusty. I am not so keen to put dusty stuff straight into the Disco's storage bins ... if I use the ARB tool box, then I just dump all the stuff into the box, clip the box and I'm done. That's fast.

And with a twin pump, I'd be faster again ... It takes me around 12 - 15 minutes to put air into 6 tyres. So, with a twin pump, it'd take 6-7 minutes.

I think from a time point of view, twin pumps would save me more time than clipping into pipes installed in the rear of the vehicle, or opening the bonnet to attach an air hose - or power clips onto the spare battery for the twin pump ARB setup.

Plus, no installation hassles. If foregoing the KISS principle saves time or provides a substantial benefit, then go for it IMO. But I think if it doesn't, then KISS IMO.

For me a pump installed in the vehicle is almost a bragging right issue ... its impressive to show one off, and you can't accidentally leave it at home either ... but for the time or money, I reckon twin pumps is better for me. Or stick with my single one and save $400 I guess ... and take an extra 7 minutes to pump things up.

Doug

[l00kin4]

If you are worried about access back to the trailer with a fixed install under the bonnet, you could do what "Terry'O" did. He ran permanent air lines to the front and back of the vehicle. Means he never has to open the hood and it's a quick snap on with the hose at the front or back for what ever task is at hand. Very convenient!

Digging up an older thread here, sorry. I've been trying to find a thread on TerryO's installation but without success. I wonder can someone point me in the right direction please?

Thanks,
David

[shamirj]

hi all,

few pics of my inverter, air supply, agm battery & arb air comp install in the rear compartment of D3. next to inverter is a quick use air supply for blowing up balls etc the other end is for pumping of tyres. inverter wedged in so does not move, air comp sits in and held by L shape bracket, does not move either but handy if needed to be pulled out for repairs. pretty happy with it so far. wanted air comp inside for better protection but with easy access. last shot from the rear cabin, orange air supply hose always connected ready to use as is the smaller air gun other side. have been thinking of fitting two couplings either side of D3 for even easier and quicker access points.

[Kieren]

I thought I'd add to this to thread with a variation of compressor install. I don't have any need for a Traxide setup yet but didn't want to use the space in front of the battery in case.

That leaves the battery box on the drivers side for the compressor, however I have no desire to have to open this every time I use the compressor. That side of the engine bay is very tight, so that put me back to looking around the space in front of the battery.

A bracket for the coupling, a carling switch with a cover sorted things out. If the dual battery option happens it will be easy to move.:D

[TuffRR]

Some good ideas here. Now if only someone can work out how to get the compressor under the bonnet with the triple battery set up. I struggled enough finding a space to mount a couple of relays for the lightbar, let alone fit a compressor.
At this stage, under the rear seats is looking like the likely location.

[l00kin4]

I thought I'd add to this to thread with a variation of compressor install. I don't have any need for a Traxide setup yet but didn't want to use the space in front of the battery in case.

That leaves the battery box on the drivers side for the compressor, however I have no desire to have to open this every time I use the compressor. That side of the engine bay is very tight, so that put me back to looking around the space in front of the battery.

A bracket for the coupling, a carling switch with a cover sorted things out. If the dual battery option happens it will be easy to move.:D



Thanks for this Kieren.


I've been considering doing this and it will be a hybrid of what you and James have done. I have a Traxide system in place but I reckon there is still space to mount a switch and air outlet on a bracket attached inboard to the Traxide battery tray.


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=106109&stc=1&d=1456358790


I'll take some photos once I get started - just sorting out materials.


One question - what hose did you use from the compressor across the engine bay to the outlet? I've been reading up on the various types - polyurethane etc. etc. but not sure what's best. I saw a suggestion somewhere else to use high pressure fuel hose because of it's heat and chemical resistance properties - how did you decide?


Thanks,
David

[Kieren]

That spot should work well for you, there is quite a bit of height under the bonnet to use.

I wish I could give you insight on a long and thoughtful process of selection for the hose....but I just went to Pirtek, told them what I needed and used what they gave me. For two meters of pipe it was so cheap I don't really remember what it cost, maybe $10? If it fails I'll replace it but I'd like to think I got sold a robust product.

[l00kin4]

That spot should work well for you, there is quite a bit of height under the bonnet to use.

I wish I could give you insight on a long and thoughtful process of selection for the hose....but I just went to Pirtek, told them what I needed and used what they gave me. For two meters of pipe it was so cheap I don't really remember what it cost, maybe $10? If it fails I'll replace it but I'd like to think I got sold a robust product.



Thanks for that. I opened up a thread in the tech section http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/232558-type-compressor-hose.html


I might just use lpg injection hose. I'll check it out or maybe I'll just go to Pirtek! :)


David

[l00kin4]

One more question - how did you guys mount the compressor to the bottom of the battery box?


Thanks,
David

[Kieren]

I bolted the compressor directly into one of the existing fixed nuts in the bottom of the box and used Nutserts for the other three.

[sctsprin]

i cheated and got ARB to do it for me,
I had to move an electrical connector that was on the floor of the box, made a little bracket for it and mounted it on a spare bolt hole near the ABS gear

[laughto]

sctsprin, this is brilliant.

There is an issue too with towing a trailer - namely, you need for an ARB unit, two links of that orange ARB pneumatic cable, because you have to get from the battery terminals where the compressor is connected to, all the way to the trailer wheels.

Slightly off topic, but to remedy this problem, I removed the Battery connectors from my Dr Air Compressor and replaced with an Anderson Plug. I can now reach all around the vehicle and Van from the back of the car :thumbsup:

[l00kin4]

I've taken James' and Kieren's ideas here and mounted the compressor in the driver's side battery box but with the outlet and switch on a bracket I made from 2mm stainless mounted to the Traxide battery tray on the passenger side.
Very happy with it although if I did it again I'd make the bracket slightly higher - I didn't allow enough for the length that the bend 'consumed'
If I get motivated I'll make a new bracket. Having done it once the next time would be a lot easier!
The other thing I did which made the job take a bit longer is modify the original ARB harness. It's made to cover the use of diff lockers so I removed all the excess cables and connectors. I took the ground from the stud at the rear of the battery box - very painful to access- and the positive from the Traxide cable as it passes through that battery box. Once that was done I only had to run the air hose and the switched wire to the relay across the engine bay. I tucked the switch wire in the split tube with the Traxide cable to keep it out of harms way.

Some pics:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=110122&stc=1&d=1465808476


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=110123&stc=1&d=1465808658


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=110124&stc=1&d=1465808658
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=110125&stc=1&d=1465808658

David

[LRD414]

Looks good David .... couple of questions:

- did you make up a bracket/plate for under the compressor?
- what air hose did you go with in the end?


I took the ground from the stud at the rear of the battery box - very painful to access-
Why not use one of the earth studs in front of the battery box, one of which is used for the aux battery?

Cheers,
Scott

[l00kin4]

Looks good David .... couple of questions:

- did you make up a bracket/plate for under the compressor?
- what air hose did you go with in the end?

Why not use one of the earth studs in front of the battery box, one of which is used for the aux battery?

Cheers,
Scott

Hi Scott,

I made up a base plate from aluminium to mount the compressor on and fixed it to the battery box with one of the original nutserts plus another I installed and a well nut (M6 Rubber Well NUT 16mm Stainless Bolt 20mm Windscreen Fairing Motorcycle | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M6-Rubber-Well-Nut-16mm-Stainless-Bolt-20mm-Windscreen-Fairing-Motorcycle-/252421822862?hash=item3ac583598e:g:regAAOSw3ydVjQ3 w)) at the front.

You can just see the edges of the plate under the compressor in the first photo in the orignal post.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

This is the air hose I used: 12mm pu air hose | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.X12mm+ pu+air+hose.TRS0&_nkw=12mm+pu+air+hose&_sacat=0) with these push in fittings:
Kelm Plastic Push IN Fittings 12mm X 1 4" NPT Female Bulkhead 5 02565 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KELM-PLASTIC-PUSH-IN-FITTINGS-12MM-X-1-4-NPT-FEMALE-BULKHEAD-5-02565-/321889318398?hash=item4af21935fe:g:lJ8AAOSw0vBUe88 t)
and
Kelm Plastic Push IN Fittings 12mm X 1 4" NPT Male Stud 5 02439 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KELM-PLASTIC-PUSH-IN-FITTINGS-12MM-X-1-4-NPT-MALE-STUD-5-02439-/322026672018?hash=item4afa490f92:g:iwQAAOSwiCRUfB9 S)

The 1/4" NPT fittings that ARB use are an American Standard that is harder to source than the more usual BSP fittings but I'm sure with a little effort these can be found locally. I was a bit lazy and just shopped on ebay mostly. I did go to Pirtek but they don't carry much of the NPT stuff - they will order it in on request. Industrial Fitting Sales carry quite a few fittings - that's where I got the brass right angle I used for the hose connection off the compressor.

The earth stud I used for the relay and the heavy cable to the compressor was on the driver's side inside the battery box. Of the three closest ones it seemed the easiest to access, even though it was obstructed by the ABS controller and lines. A bit of perseverance with an open ended spanner got me there in the end - took a while though. The other two down lower in front of the battery box looked like I'd have to start removing things to get access to them.

I used the same earth stud as the aux battery on the passenger side for the ground connections for the switch (illumination).

Happy to provide more details on the steps or parts if helpful...

David

[LRD414]

Thanks. I initially misunderstood which battery box you meant when describing the earth.

I've never heard of a well nut. Looks very handy.

Scott

[scomac]

Here is mine mounted in front of the battery box.

[l00kin4]

Thanks. I initially misunderstood which battery box you meant when describing the earth.

I've never heard of a well nut. Looks very handy.

Scott

No worries Scott, I could have been clearer. I really did start to consider using the stud on the passenger side after I started jamming my hand in that uncomfortable nook to access that nearby stud, as the passenger side stud is SO much easier to get to. If I hadn't already cut the cable I might have just run the ground across the engine bay too. :)
I'm happy to have the nice short cable run though.

I ended up using the well nut because I struggled to set the nutsert in that hole - because of my inexperience with the setting tool and the lack of depth underneath it - and then because the nutsert was rotating in the hole I had enlarged the hole to the point where I couldn't get a nutsert to set snugly. I probably would have been better using an open style nutsert -which is easier to set- like this: QTY 10 M6 6mm Zinc Plated Steel Blind Jack Nuts Threaded Insert Nutserts Jacknut | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Qty-10-M6-6mm-Zinc-Plated-Steel-Blind-Jack-Nuts-Threaded-Insert-Nutserts-Jacknut-/331678660404?hash=item4d3996b734:g:WE0AAOSwA4dWGfR x)
The well nut solved the problem for me nicely.

David

[D4206]

Hi Scott,

I made up a base plate from aluminium to mount the compressor on and fixed it to the battery box with one of the original nutserts plus another I installed and a well nut (M6 Rubber Well NUT 16mm Stainless Bolt 20mm Windscreen Fairing Motorcycle | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M6-Rubber-Well-Nut-16mm-Stainless-Bolt-20mm-Windscreen-Fairing-Motorcycle-/252421822862?hash=item3ac583598e:g:regAAOSw3ydVjQ3 w)) at the front.

You can just see the edges of the plate under the compressor in the first photo in the orignal post.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=110134&stc=1&d=1465821319

This is the air hose I used: 12mm pu air hose | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.X12mm+ pu+air+hose.TRS0&_nkw=12mm+pu+air+hose&_sacat=0) with these push in fittings:
Kelm Plastic Push IN Fittings 12mm X 1 4" NPT Female Bulkhead 5 02565 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KELM-PLASTIC-PUSH-IN-FITTINGS-12MM-X-1-4-NPT-FEMALE-BULKHEAD-5-02565-/321889318398?hash=item4af21935fe:g:lJ8AAOSw0vBUe88 t)
and
Kelm Plastic Push IN Fittings 12mm X 1 4" NPT Male Stud 5 02439 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KELM-PLASTIC-PUSH-IN-FITTINGS-12MM-X-1-4-NPT-MALE-STUD-5-02439-/322026672018?hash=item4afa490f92:g:iwQAAOSwiCRUfB9 S)

The 1/4" NPT fittings that ARB use are an American Standard that is harder to source than the more usual BSP fittings but I'm sure with a little effort these can be found locally. I was a bit lazy and just shopped on ebay mostly. I did go to Pirtek but they don't carry much of the NPT stuff - they will order it in on request. Industrial Fitting Sales carry quite a few fittings - that's where I got the brass right angle I used for the hose connection off the compressor.

The earth stud I used for the relay and the heavy cable to the compressor was on the driver's side inside the battery box. Of the three closest ones it seemed the easiest to access, even though it was obstructed by the ABS controller and lines. A bit of perseverance with an open ended spanner got me there in the end - took a while though. The other two down lower in front of the battery box looked like I'd have to start removing things to get access to them.

I used the same earth stud as the aux battery on the passenger side for the ground connections for the switch (illumination).

Happy to provide more details on the steps or parts if helpful...

David

Hi David,
I'm about to start an install and like the way you have done this. Can you provide some more info on how you fixed the base plate? Looks like it has 3 fixing points. Did you have spacers setting the aluminium plate off the base level of the battery box. I'm assuming there is some clearance underneath to allow for the fixing bolts of the actual compressor and that you fixed to compressor to the base plate first, then fixed the base plate to the car? How do the nutserts work? Did you just drill into the plastic base of the battery box?
Cheers,
Bill

[l00kin4]

Hi David,
I'm about to start an install and like the way you have done this. Can you provide some more info on how you fixed the base plate? Looks like it has 3 fixing points. Did you have spacers setting the aluminium plate off the base level of the battery box. I'm assuming there is some clearance underneath to allow for the fixing bolts of the actual compressor and that you fixed to compressor to the base plate first, then fixed the base plate to the car? How do the nutserts work? Did you just drill into the plastic base of the battery box?
Cheers,
Bill


Thanks Bill, for sure.
Yes, base plate is spaced off bottom of battery box. I used some rubber grommets about 6mm from memory. I'll see what more photos I might have if you like.
Yes, fixed compressor to plate (with socket head machine screws and nyloc nuts) and then plate to car.
You do need to pick spots where there is enough clearance underneath for the nutserts.
For fixing the plate I used the existing nutsert for the battery mount bolt at the rear of the box, 1 new nutsert and a well nut (where I messed up the hole for my nutsert)
For fixing the nutserts I used this tool: M6 Rivnut Nutsert Rivet NUT Blind Rivet "Minisert Manual Insertion Tool" | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M6-RivNut-Nutsert-Rivet-Nut-Blind-Rivet-MiniSert-Manual-Insertion-Tool-/261681537481?hash=item3ced6f61c9:g:goAAAOSwBvNTm92 8)

Worked well once I got the hang of it. I used stainless nutserts too which are reputedly a bit more of a pain to work with. I thought the tool was good in this application too because you mainly only need space above it to use it. I am certainly no expert and nutsert tools are a topic of some debate. There's a fairly long thread in tools section: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/tool-time/222453-rivnut-tool-nutsert-etc.html

I do actually wonder if well nuts ( M6 Rubber Well Nut 16mm & Stainless Bolt 20mm Windscreen Fairing Motorcycle (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M6-Rubber-Well-Nut-16mm-Stainless-Bolt-20mm-Windscreen-Fairing-Motorcycle-/252494624099?hash=item3ac9da3563:g:regAAOSw3ydVjQ3 w)) might be easier and work well but I'm sure the brains trust here will give an opinion on this.

Hope that helps

David

[l00kin4]

Oh, and I am going to make a new bracket for the switch and air outlet. I have the material so I once I get cracking on it I'll post up some photos and dimensions.

David

[D4206]

I do actually wonder if well nuts ( M6 Rubber Well Nut 16mm & Stainless Bolt 20mm Windscreen Fairing Motorcycle (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M6-Rubber-Well-Nut-16mm-Stainless-Bolt-20mm-Windscreen-Fairing-Motorcycle-/252494624099?hash=item3ac9da3563:g:regAAOSw3ydVjQ3 w)) might be easier and work well but I'm sure the brains trust here will give an opinion on this.



Hope that helps



David[/QUOTE]


Hi David,

Thanks for the reply. How do the well nuts work? I don't see how they are fixed in place?

Cheers,
Bill

[l00kin4]

I do actually wonder if well nuts ( M6 Rubber Well Nut 16mm & Stainless Bolt 20mm Windscreen Fairing Motorcycle (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M6-Rubber-Well-Nut-16mm-Stainless-Bolt-20mm-Windscreen-Fairing-Motorcycle-/252494624099?hash=item3ac9da3563:g:regAAOSw3ydVjQ3 w)) might be easier and work well but I'm sure the brains trust here will give an opinion on this.

Hope that helps

David

Hi David,

Thanks for the reply. How do the well nuts work? I don't see how they are fixed in place?

Cheers,
Bill[/QUOTE]


Exact same principle as the rivnut/nutsert, just easier to compress / engage. Could be argued that it handles vibration better too possibly. Not suitable to secure anything too heavy I think but I'd say ok for this application.


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=112792&stc=1&d=1471391128


I've seen good reports people using them to fix all sorts of things in 4wd's with good long term results. One report of these securing a 50l Waeco fridge! They are also easier to remove. I'd definitely say if going for nutserts, use alloy as they will be a lot easier to compress. In either case a snug hole is a must.


David

[l00kin4]

I wasn't quite happy with the height of the air outlet so I decided to make up a new bracket, this time with two different heights for the air outlet and the switch. Gave it a quick coat of paint too.

Access to the coupling and the switch is a bit easier now.

David


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=112941&stc=1&d=1471819692

[D4206]

Looks very good.. Is the bracket attached to the battery box? Mine hasn't arrived yet.. So not sure how it's configured.
Cheers,
Bill

[l00kin4]

Hi Bill,
Yes, bolts through Traxide battery tray. I used 3 countersunk M5x16 bolts (machine screws) with nyloc nuts.
Bracket shape and rough dimensions in pic but will depend on which air fitting used - the bulkhead fitting I used to screw the coupling into sits about 20mm above the bracket.
I also added a P clip to hold the hose about 50mm from the bottom and the back of the bracket: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321545728170
Let me know if more pics will help - I didn't take as many as usual as it was getting cold and dark when I was finishing, but I do have some others showing different angles.
David


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=112952&stc=1&d=1471845901

[l00kin4]

Pic more from the side
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=112953&stc=1&d=1471846582

[l00kin4]

Hi David,
I'm about to start an install and like the way you have done this. Can you provide some more info on how you fixed the base plate? Looks like it has 3 fixing points. Did you have spacers setting the aluminium plate off the base level of the battery box. I'm assuming there is some clearance underneath to allow for the fixing bolts of the actual compressor and that you fixed to compressor to the base plate first, then fixed the base plate to the car? How do the nutserts work? Did you just drill into the plastic base of the battery box?
Cheers,
Bill


Bill,
a couple of extra pics of where I put the nutsert and well nut holes. Also showing the base plate and where I had to trim another piece off the edge.
David
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=112973&stc=1&d=1471923483


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[D4206]

Bill,
a couple of extra pics

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=112975&stc=1&d=1471923711


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=112974&stc=1&d=1471923574


Hi David, thanks for the extra pics.. They are great. In the photo with the compressor in its location I can't see the front fixing..I'm assuming it's obscured by the cabling.. But that the bolt was able to be installed with the compressor already mounted to the base plate. Also assume that you only used the supplied base plate that comes with the compressor as a template?
Cheers,
Bill

[l00kin4]

Hi David, thanks for the extra pics.. They are great. In the photo with the compressor in its location I can't see the front fixing..I'm assuming it's obscured by the cabling.. But that the bolt was able to be installed with the compressor already mounted to the base plate. Also assume that you only used the supplied base plate that comes with the compressor as a template?
Cheers,
Bill


Hi Bill,
All of the screws are positioned so they can be fixed with the compressor already fixed to the base plate. The screws towards the firewall and the middle one are easily accessible. The front one is slightly more difficult but still fine with a screwdriver. Pics below. Yes, spot on- I only used the supplied base plate as a template for the holes.
David

Rear fixing
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=113003&stc=1&d=1471991726


Front fixing

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=113002&stc=1&d=1471991773

[D4206]

Fitted the Compressor into the engine bay today. Took it slowly and am happy with the result. Thanks to the advice received from this forum.

Then I pulled out the wiring loom from the box....boy what a pile of spagetti. I understand that it was made for use with airlockers, but it would have been nice if the instructions provided by ARB also had a simple diagram showing how to wire it up on its own. I contemplated pulling the un-used wires out of the loom, but upon investigation its not as simple as I thought.

Would appreciate some advice on the following:

1. is the relay still required?

2.does the pressure switch need to be installed...I wouldn't have thought it was needed?

I'm thinking I'll run the power supply cables directly to the main battery and switching cables to the switch which will be located adjacent the aus battery as in the post above.

cheers,
bill

[l00kin4]

Fitted the Compressor into the engine bay today. Took it slowly and am happy with the result. Thanks to the advice received from this forum.

Then I pulled out the wiring loom from the box....boy what a pile of spagetti. I understand that it was made for use with airlockers, but it would have been nice if the instructions provided by ARB also had a simple diagram showing how to wire it up on its own. I contemplated pulling the un-used wires out of the loom, but upon investigation its not as simple as I thought.

Would appreciate some advice on the following:

1. is the relay still required?

2.does the pressure switch need to be installed...I wouldn't have thought it was needed?

I'm thinking I'll run the power supply cables directly to the main battery and switching cables to the switch which will be located adjacent the aus battery as in the post above.

cheers,
bill

Hi Bill,

Looks good. Nice one.

1. Yes, you still need the relay as the compressor will draw a large current when running. The relay isolates your switching circuit from your supply circuit so your switch only needs to handle the small current to drive the relay rather than the massive current to run the compressor;

2. Yes, you need the pressure switch to stop the compressor running continuously and bursting something!

To save running it across the engine bay, you can pick up the earth stud in the battery box but it is a bit fiddly to access. I'll see if I have a photo of the position.

The loom is a bit much isn't it. I did actually strip out all the superfluous locker wires from the loom but it was a bit of a time consuming exercise. It is much tidier though.

One other thing I should have mentioned before (sorry) that you might want to consider is to put a couple of extra holes in the base plate to tie down your cabling.

Cheers,
David

[l00kin4]

A few questions for the forum gurus-
has anyone ever put an air tank in under the vehicle? I was looking at the mirror position of the EAS tank tucked inside the chassis rail on the driver's side.
What size would it need to be to be worthwhile for pumping up tyres?
What would be a good route to run an air line to the rear?
Interested in people's thoughts...
Thanks,
David

[de7158]

A write up on using a additional EAS tank modified to fit under drivers side.



DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - LR Airtank fitted for compressor install . (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic32433.html?highlight=%2Bcompressor+%2B+airlin e)

Cheers
Peter

[l00kin4]

A write up on using a additional EAS tank modified to fit under drivers side.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - LR Airtank fitted for compressor install . (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic32433.html?highlight=%2Bcompressor+%2B+airlin e)

Cheers

Peter


That's perfect, thanks Peter

Might stretch my welding / fabrication skills but I'll have a crack if it's a good idea.
Anybody here done this? Is the 9l capacity worthwhile ?

Thanks,
David

[Mungus]

I did the pre-checks before proceeding with the deciding to place my 2nd battery in the drivers side box. All looked good. So I purchased the Traxide D3-DU which is electronically and functionally the same as the D4-5U, but supplied to suit this location of battery.


I trial fitted the battery and bracket last night and have a small issue. The OEM bracket supplied in the kit touches with a bit of pressure against the ABS brake lines.


Can I crack those two brake line nuts and rotate the brake lines a few degrees to the left without affecting the brake system. i.e. air in system, faults etc.?


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/808.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/809.jpg

[SuperMono]

Can I crack those two brake line nuts and rotate the brake lines a few degrees to the left without affecting the brake system. i.e. air in system, faults etc.?


I moved the whole ABS unit a few mm across to the right to increase clearance.
But it is a tight fit for sure.

[l00kin4]

Just a quick update on this. I was out on Gordon's sand mastery event over the weekend and gave the compressor a fair workout.
ARB compressor went well but can't say the same for the hose (similar to this: Black 10mm x 6.5mm Fleaxible PU Tube Pneumatic Hose 3.5M Length | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-10mm-x-6-5mm-Fleaxible-PU-Tube-Pneumatic-Hose-3-5M-Length-/332032162603?hash=item4d4ea8bb2b:m:mCNYqQTN9wAnNPO 9OZ9USDw)). It had a blowout near the compressor end. I'd say a combination of heat and a poor quality hose.
In to Pirtek today and have ordered some air brake hose. We'll see how that goes.
David

119927

[l00kin4]

After doing a bit more research on this I found enough accounts of hoses blowing near the compressor that I decided to use a braided Teflon hose. Some people have used Teflon for up to 600mm at the compressor (hot) end and then connected to another hose type like air brake line, which has lower temperature and pressure limits. For my situation, since I'm only (currently) running about 1.5m across the engine bay I'm going to use Teflon braided hose all the way. It's more expensive and probably way overkill but I only want to do it once (more :blush: ).

What I've ordered is:
Hose: AF250-06-2M - 250 Series PTFE Black Braided Hose -6AN - Aeroflow Performance (https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/af250-06-2m) Connectors: AF201-06DBLK - 200 / 570 Series PTFE Straight Hose End -6AN - Aeroflow Performance (https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/af201-06dblk) AF203-06DBLK - 200 Series PTFE 90deg Hose End -6AN - Aeroflow Performance (https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/af203-06dblk) and a couple of NPT adapters to match the ARB fittings: AF816-06BLK - NPT to Straight Male Flare Adapter 1/4" to -6AN - Aeroflow Performance (https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/af816-06blk)

Also, as this takes me away from the push fit fittings, I had to change the bulkhead fitting to mount the air outlet on the bracket to this:
120268
from these guys - ifsaus (https://www.ifsaus.com.au/)

I'll post up some pics when I get all the bits and put the hose together.
David

[rocket rod]

I haven't installed a compressor in the car as I prefer the portable types to do the camper trailer etc attached to the Anderson plug at the rear of the car but I did see a really good trick by a chap who has a sand boarding business so he has to re-inflate his tyres twice a day. He had an Endless Air system installed on his Landcruiser and uses the bull bar as the air tank. I don't know what he needed to do to make the bull bar airtight but he had his hose connector on the bar so it was easy access. Maybe a thought for those who want a tank but don't have the room!!!

[l00kin4]

I put the Teflon hose and connectors in over the weekend. The hose is comprised of a Teflon inner, stainless braid over that and then a nylon braided outer. With a 3,000psi working pressure (10,000psi burst!) and 250 C temperature limit should be more than ok.

The alloy end connectors are very soft so I did mark them a little bit as I don't have the right gear (soft vice jaw facings etc.) to protect them during assembly but it's only aesthetic.

Not much to look at but here are a couple of pics below...

David
120468120469120470

[Tombie]

Looks good...

Hint: when you haven't got soft jaws - masking tape or electrical tape... Or Wood [emoji6]

[l00kin4]

Looks good...

Hint: when you haven't got soft jaws - masking tape or electrical tape... Or Wood [emoji6]

Thanks Tombie,
I did try soft jaws but mine were a bit too soft (silicone/rubber type) so the fitting spun under tension. I then taped it but I guess not enough so it did still mark slightly through the tape. I just didn't realise how soft those fittings are. Lesson learned!

David

[Tombie]

Yes. They're a very soft fitting... but easy to use.

[l00kin4]

A few questions for the forum gurus-
has anyone ever put an air tank in under the vehicle? I was looking at the mirror position of the EAS tank tucked inside the chassis rail on the driver's side.
What size would it need to be to be worthwhile for pumping up tyres?
What would be a good route to run an air line to the rear?
Interested in people's thoughts...
Thanks,
David


A write up on using a additional EAS tank modified to fit under drivers side.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - LR Airtank fitted for compressor install . (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic32433.html?highlight=%2Bcompressor+%2B+airlin e)

Cheers
Peter

Finally got around to finishing this job over the last few weekends. I had to wait a while until a reasonably priced OEM EAS air tank came up and I picked up a new one on ebay. Overkill but I ran Teflon hose all the way through.

Following Wiggs approach linked above I had the front bracket modified to mirror image of its original position and then added the ports I needed - 2 at the front, 1 inlet and 1 low for a drain. Being a pressure vessel I didn't trust myself with the welding so had this done for me by an expert.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/99.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25LjWde)

The original brass Voss fitting Pirtek tapped out to 1/4 BSP for me and I added the AN6 male I wanted to connect the hose for the rear outlet.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/100.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25LjW4g)

The rear bracket I made up myself. The mounting on a D4 is a bit easier than in Wiggs' case on the D3 as the D4 bracket on the chassis rail has a bit more 'meat' to it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/101.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/231kboN)

The air hose runs from a tee in the engine bay down the firewall to the front of the tank and from the rear of the tank pretty much along the top of the chassis rail and then across to a nice 25mm unoccupied hole I found in the bottom of the driver's side cubby in the cargo area. I used a couple of large mudguard washers with a sikaflex seal to put an AN6 bulkhead fitting in this hole.

I added a bracket in the cubby with the ARB air outlet and a second switch. This is bolted through the pinchweld seam above the wheel arch. Accessing the hole (which is above the rear muffler) from under the car is a bit fiddly and getting the foam piece that the jack sits in in and out of the cubby is quite painful.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/102.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25LjVWn)

Not much to look at but makes accessing the air at the rear really easy. Even when touring, my fridge cage is in the spot and access to this cubby is still good. I haven't done a comparison of the inflation time yet pre and post tank installation but will report back on this later. Something I hadn't really thought of but a nice incidental benefit - this setup is crazily good for inflating footballs before training the kids!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/103.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25LjWnT)

There are obviously a lot more fiddly details I'm happy to share if anyone is interested.

David

[Chops]

Excellent work David,, thanks for sharing.

[l00kin4]

A small update. I decided to add a switch for the compressor in the light switch panel. I figured since I always have the engine running when the compressor is running, having the switch in the dash made sense.

I left the existing switch I installed under the bonnet as is and just added this new one. I think it is a reasonable match

165219

For reference the switch is this one: SPST Ultra Mini Rocker Switch | Jaycar Electronics (https://www.jaycar.com.au/spst-ultra-mini-rocker-switch/p/SK0975)

David