RRC ute conversion

[Konradical]

Good evening all,

I was hoping to get a perspective on the difficulty of converting a 4 door rangie into a ute with a tray back. Better yet would be converting it into a dual cab tray back.

I have spent the last week researching on the interweb and havent really come up with much.

I am aware of the Les Richmond kit, which I will most likely go down the path of. Has anyone done this?

I have found two threads on here of people doing the conversion, a 4 door rrc and a disco, but they seem to dry up after a couple of posts.

The reason behind all this is that I found a '88 4 door at the back of a wreckers and they werent entirely aware that they had it. Its a diesel of all things and aside from having a community of spiders living in it, its pretty straight. The engine is seized (or took a breath full of water- they werent sure) which may take a bit of time to rectify, but the other option is to do a 300TDi conversion, which I have already located from another member on this forum.

It will basically become a work truck for the side business I do after hours, which will save my '89 from being a tow vehicle.

I believe I can complete the conversion and rego for about $5k. But want to get an idea of difficulty, time and anything I should look out for.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts, ideas and advice.

Looking forward to reading your replies.

[Rick1970]

Will follow this with interest. Would one day like to chop my '86 into a tray back. Will be at a guys place that has a single cab/tray rangie comp truck (is, or was registered in NSW) in a few weeks, intend to give the cab a good going over as to how it was chopped.

[Konradical]

Will follow this with interest. Would one day like to chop my '86 into a tray back. Will be at a guys place that has a single cab/tray rangie comp truck (is, or was registered in NSW) in a few weeks, intend to give the cab a good going over as to how it was chopped.

Rick,

If you can, put some pictures up. All of the pictures I have found on the net don't show any close up detail, just of an angle from 20ft away.

Cheers

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[Rick1970]

Will try and get some pix, i'm hoping the rear of the cab isn't trimmed as such, so can get some idea of how it was chopped.


Hope to get a good look at this one, hope you don't mind Dave :)

[Konradical]

That would be good. If you can, could you get some pics of how the tray is mounted to the chassis. I'd like to get a tool box made up and I just had some concern about how to mount it. Looks like I will have to weld on some mounting points.

I also found some time today to give Les Richmond Automotive a call to follow up the Email I sent last week. Turns out that the guru for the ute conversion is away until Monday. So I'm looking forward to that conversation, to get a better idea about the tray back kit.

I was also advised that there is a couple of week turn around in getting the kit as they only stock the steel bits and have the fibreglass parts made as required.

Will update as I find out more.

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[Konradical]

*Update*

Spoke with the guru about the ute kit. They supply the back panel, brackets, fibreglass bits and the vinyl wrap around bits for the C pillar. The only thing you need to sort are bolts, rivits and glass for the back panel.

He also said that, for the tray back, they cut the body at the top of the 45? in front of the back seat and steal the quarter glass out of the back door and the existing C pillar. That fits behind the B pillar and then the gap left by the rear door is filled with some panels they supply and the corners are finished off with a fibreglass corner panel after the back panel is fitted.

Sounds pretty neat and well finished. Also sounds a damn lot simpler than just cutting and hoping for the best. It also comes with a letter to hand to the rego people to help get the changes through.

So attached is a pic of what I will be attacking. All I need for it is a gearbox, possibly a engine and gearbox. If anyone has a 2.4lt diesel and gearbox floating about, let me know.

Can't wait to get started.


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[pop058]

Sounds like you may have a VM diesel. 300TDi is probably a better (IMO) option

[Konradical]

Sounds like you may have a VM diesel. 300TDi is probably a better (IMO) option

Oh it most definitely is a VM.

The 300TDi is a good option and I have already sourced one from another member on this site, but from what I have read here, the swap requires engine mounts from a discovery. Sourcing them here will be impossible. So if the engine is good, il stick with that until I get back down south.

Either way, I will still need a gearbox/transfer case.

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[Homestar]

Chances are the engine won't be good - they never were...

Getting mounts to suit the 300tdi should be straightforward I would have thought.

[loanrangie]

Mounts are easy to make.

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[Konradical]

Mounts are easy to make.

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Is there a drawing or something somewhere that I can use to have them made up and welded in the correct position?

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[loanrangie]

I thought i had pics somewhere, they are a very simple design of folded plate.
Should be able to find pics online somewhere.

[loanrangie]

Here you go, on this site and all.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/194042-300tdi-range-rover-classic-conversion.html

What are LRA asking for the ute kit ?

[Corgie Carrier]

Last time I looked it was $2500 for a style side and $2300 for a tray back ute kit.

[Konradical]

Here you go, on this site and all.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/194042-300tdi-range-rover-classic-conversion.html

What are LRA asking for the ute kit ?

Thanks for the link. I will pm and find out exact measurements to ensure it goes together properly.

The kit is $3200 plus freight and if you live in Melbourne, the freight is cheap. To get it here is at least $500.

Once all the supplies of this run are gone, they probably won't run another lot. Age of the vehicle and popularity being reasons.


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[loanrangie]

Shame , same kit could be used on d1 and d2.

[SSmith]

I have a D1 wreck, with the engine out, that we can take plenty of measurements from. Heck as it gets later in the wrecking I may even hack the mounts out for you if nobody wants the chassis in a reusable condition.

Then again, might be easier to plonk the RRC body on my chassis.

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[Konradical]

I have a D1 wreck, with the engine out, that we can take plenty of measurements from. Heck as it gets later in the wrecking I may even hack the mounts out for you if nobody wants the chassis in a reusable condition.

Then again, might be easier to plonk the RRC body on my chassis.

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That would be super fantastic!

Even just accurate measurements of the mounts and where they are placed on the chassis rail would be beer worthy.

Keep me informed, if you can, on how that wreck is going.

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[Rick1970]

Few Rangie ute pix....gunna have to run the tape over mine I think :angel:

[Konradical]

Just a quick message to let you guys who are following this thread, that I havent forgotten or given up on this project.

Currently i average 55hrs a week at my full time job and are completing another 12-18hrs a week in my own side business after hours, plus two children under 3, spare time is a rare asset.

I have spent A little bit of time seeing if I can get the 2.4td going and trying to source a gearbox/transfer case for it. A 300Tdi set up isnt preferred ATM do to time and money constraints.

I havent ordered the kit yet due to time and laziness and I wont get a chance to start cutting things until this rain and stupidly hot weather settles. Do not want it open to monsoons.

Does anyone know of a diesel spec LT77 gearbox/transfer case sitting around? Dont care if it needs work. Have been offered a R380 + TC but will hold off if i can get a 77..

Bring on the dry season I say!

[Konradical]

*Project update*

So in the last few days there has been movement on the ranch.

I have ordered the ute kit from Les Richmond Automotive, they have a backlog with the fibreglass guy, but hopefully it will be here in about 5-6 weeks.

I found a R380 gearbox, LT230 transfer case and front/rear driveshafts from a fella south of Perth who did a fantastic job of sorting out freight and giving me a fantastic price. This is not the gearbox I was after, but for the price I was willing to give it a try. Plus there are two sides to this; If it works with the VM Diesel, fantastic- If not(or does but then I can afford a swap) I have the correct gearbox for the engine. I am going to try Allfour by 4 tomorrow to see if they have a bellhousing.

A local tyre mob are going to put aside a set of second hand tyres so I can have something to put some air in and roll it around. AND if they are cool about it, ie; dont charge a ridiculous fee, I will probably buy a set of new tyres from them.

The weather seems to have settled down. I can go outside after lunch and not instantly melt, so I can try and free up some time to start pulling things apart.

I wont be cutting things straight away, I will wait until I have the kit and some instructions before that happens, but I will start removing trim and the like.

Id like to get an opinion or two also about whether or not I should remove the Boge and supplement the rear suspension with airbags.. Just considering it will be having a tray on it.

Also, do the RRC's have any rust problem areas I should sort out while this is happening?

Thanks guys, I will keep this going until the end.

[bee utey]

Pull the trim panels off the front door pillars under the dash and have a good look there and under the carpet.

[Konradical]

So over the last few days I have been able to finish half hour early and rush out to do odds on the project.

The main thing I have been concentrating on is getting the engine to run and I can say that after this afternoon, it turns over smoothly and without binding.

I see that as a success..

With that result, I drained what was in the fuel tank and put some fresh stuff in. I attempted to get it to start, but I was using some pretty dead batteries from the spare pile at work. They had half a day on the charger, but not enough. Two new ones are on the way and should see them in the morning and after work, I shall have another go.

The gearbox and bellhousing arrived this week. Was pretty happy with the turn around considering one came from Perth and the other from Newcastle. Will have to get a new thrust bearing and find a pinion bearing that will suit the R380.

The rear D1 prop shaft I got with the transmission has a rubber coupling at the diff end, so it looks like I will have to go back to the drawing bored on that one. See if I can get one in the NT, although that would be unlikely.

Either way, fingers crossed that she fires tomorrow, runs smoothly and then I can breath easy!

[Konradical]

I can safely say, for a engine that has been dunked in water, it runs quite smooth!

It took a little longer to bleed up and start than I wanted, which instilled a bit of fear, but once it was running, it was all good. I will need to replace the rear main seal before all the good stuff bolts up, but other than that I think a decent tune and it could be a reliable runner.

With that news, I started planning my attack with striping it. The first thing to come out are the draw system. Was a pretty random find when I got it as it is set up with two draws, fridge slide and 12v wiring. I have already found a buyer for these.

The upper tail gate came off with ease and I didn't expect it to be so heavy.

Thinking I might strip it from the inside out saving the glass and major panels for last in case there is a late rain.

If anyone wants something from the back of the car, let me know, I'm sure we could work something out.

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[loanrangie]

Just use the rrc shaft and ditch the donut.

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[Konradical]

I can't actually do that, the car came without a gearbox and propshafts, thus the search for stuff.

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[Mercguy]

Mmm Donuts. :ohyes:

[loanrangie]

I can't actually do that, the car came without a gearbox and propshafts, thus the search for stuff.

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You said a few posts up that you got a donut shaft with the transmission ?

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[Konradical]

Yeah, the rear prop shaft I got with the transmission is off of a D1. One end has a uni set up which will fit the trans, but the diff end has the rubber coupling. I need two sets of uni's as the RRC is of the uni type.

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[Konradical]

It is finally here!

Just awaiting approval from the MVR, then we will begin chopping..

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[Mercguy]

I was having a think about this and a few things you mentioned earlier.

Just going to list some thoughts, you probably already have considered and chosen a path, but not mentioned...

1. Rear-end. You mentioned aframe boge removal / polyair springs etc. Does your RRC have swaybars?
Some thoughts around this are:
remove bars, keep boge, new balljoint, clean upper balljoint. forget polyairs unless you're going to randomly cart heavy loads or the load won't be 'constant'
by that I mean, you'd be better off with a set of springs more-suited to your application as well as dampers to match.
Ditching the swaybar for the additional articulation - but also again requires spring & damper modifications if you want to get the most out of your suspension - alternatively, you can use a swaybar disconnect - a cheap pin style or the super-duper locking hub style that LRA make for exhorbitant fees.

2. propshafts - I know you said you were looking for non-donut version, and that you currently don't have propshafts that you could use / modify.
It may be worth your while having a couple sent over from the USA from Tom Woods - at least then you know exactly what you will get for your $$$ is top shelf and pretty much unbrakeable. (Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist (http://www.customdriveshafts.com))
I've had local engineering firms make propshafts for me in the past as well as rebuilding and customizing MB ones (which have non-replaceable centre uni's) and Tom's prices for a brand new shaft are cheaper. Hate to say it... but worth thinking about.

3. R380 - is not a bad box, but it's not without it's known issues. Perhaps it is worthwhile rebuilding and performing necessary upgrades to make it a bulletproof unit? Same as the LT230 - they are good for what they are and pretty reliable, but can still do with quite a few improvements to make them 'bulletproof' - more time consuming than financial... stuff like double-row bearing mod on the rear output, crossdrilled gear, maybe an ashcroft atb centre if you have some flash money or something.... I'm just throwing ideas out there - you have the stuff already and don't have to remove it from the vehicle, so you're already more than one step ahead.

Like I said, you probably have already thought this stuff through and have a plan, but it would be interesting to know if you've decided what path you're thinking of taking on the suspension side of things, because the use case for the vehicle is a very specific guideline for suspension choice and modifications(if any).

Interested to know your thoughts. Got any more pics of the shell?

[Konradical]

Mercguy

Thanks for the insights, they are certainly a lot of very good options and ideas.

Essentially, the ute will be used as a business vehicle for what I do on the side, as a mechanic. It will house my tools and other gear.

So at this stage, there are no immediate plans to use it in any off-road capacity other than dirt roads of course.

BUT, due to my partners employment, our location can change and we could be living anywhere else and that can change things.

That is why I am trying to keep everything pretty simple. If I can get it to work and be reliable, job done, but I will design the tray/toolbox with the idea that it could be turned into a tourer if mechanic-ing stops or I decide to move it on.

In time though, there will be changes, like a 300tdi conversion, maybe a lift and traction devices.

I am still undecided whether to remove the boge and fit airbags, keep the boge and fit airbags or just hope the boge will be enough to maintain a tray and tools. I was looking the other night in a owners manual and noticed that the kerb weight is around 1900kgs with a GVM of about 2600kgs. So that gives me about 700kgs to play with in terms of fitting a tray and filling with tools, then I need to allow for towing a trailer. But that hasn't included the weight I will remove with the rear section of roof, side panels and rear floor(couldn't imagine it would weight too much). Any input into this decision would be appreciated.

The vehicle itself is a 88 model, so no sway bars to worry about. On that though, I might be getting a 92 model for free and I'm sure that after 90 they had sway bars fitted and I am contemplating the task of doing a axle swap which would have a few benefits; better brakes, more stable suspension and it solves my tail shaft problem. Just a pity the air suspension has been removed, cause that would have been cool!

The one consideration that I have to keep in mind is where I am located. The closest place with access to engineering or machining is 300kay away in Darwin and even then if it can't be done, Adelaide (2700kays) is probably the next easiest. I really don't want the projects budget spent on freight which in most cases can cost as much if not more than what you are purchasing. So keeping it within my available resources is key. And considering this is Toyota town (I get looks as if I am a foreign dictator), those resources are limited.

I am leaving to do a quick trip to Adelaide tomorrow, but when I return, I should be back at work and able to get a couple of fresh pics of where I am up to. And hopefully make some meaningful progress.

As I said earlier, thanks again for your ideas and I hope I answered your questions, even if it was Ross Noble style.

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[gavinwibrow]

Konradical. So, without going back to read all posts, have you had a talk with your local LR guru in Katherine namely Dave - Blknight?

[Konradical]

Konradical. So, without going back to read all posts, have you had a talk with your local LR guru in Katherine namely Dave - Blknight?

Not directly. I know who he is and have briefly spoken.

The job that he does is what I used to do.

I haven't spoke with him regarding this, didnt really intend to, but if he wants to come have a look or offer some advice I am open to that.

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[Konradical]

*UPDATE*

Finally!!

Two weeks ago I received the "Approval in Principle" from the MVR and after chasing some answers to questions the approval raised, I finally got to make some progress!

Basically what you see in the pictures is after only three hours of work. I only have a couple of rivots and two bolts to undo and the back section will be off.

The whole issue of finding time is slowing me down. I have been working seven days a week and luckily today was a public holiday, so I could sneak away for a couple of hours.

I was very surprised at how easily the roof came off AND how light it was.

Once the back is off, I will test fit some panels to ensure I get the right cuts.

Hopefully I can make some real progress and get these updates more regular.

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[Konradical]

Another update..

So the back section was a bit more than rivots and a couple of bolts. There is stuff left right and centre under there holding it together.

As you can see in the pictures I managed to get it off and started to see where the panels go.

Will need to give the whole floor a bit of rust treatment and remove the years of dirt built up on the chassis.

From seeing this now, I figured I can fit a tray about 1600-1700mm long without any overhang past the rear Bar.

Hope three progress can keep rolling..

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[Konradical]

A couple of pictures from today's progress..

Didn't get as much done as planned, but I fitted some new tyres so I can roll it around and I cut out and cleaned the old frame parts that get reused. I then tacked the new 'c' pillars into place ready for the door replacement panels.

Starting to take shape now and I am getting a few comments on it.

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[Davo]

Er, were they nice comments??? :)

Are you going to drop the fuel tank? The rear mounts are a complete rust trap, probably the worst on the whole car, which is saying something.

[Konradical]

Funnily enough they were nice comments. A lot of people can't wait to see it finished. Wish they put that enthusiasm into helping..

I didn't plan on dropping the fuel tank, but since you mentioned it and it is really easy to get to atm, I might just do that and get the tank a proper flush while at it.

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[Davo]

I did mine "while I was at it" at that end of the car, and found a hose inside the tank from some long-ago siphoning attempt. You just never know.

So, you live in the North and people are saying nice things about a Range Rover??? Everyone here thinks I'm crazy because it isn't a Prado.

[Konradical]

Geez you never know what you might find.

Yeah it is funny. Saying that there are people here who own Toyotas that play the "they aren't reliable in the outback" line. And I can say that our new D4 has seen more off road in Eight months than most Toyotas here have ever.

I think, maybe because it is something different that some people are enjoying it. Doesn't mean they dont think it won't survive.

As I have said previously in a post, when I drive around town, I generally get looks as if I'm a foreign dictator!

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[DoubleChevron]

As I have said previously in a post, when I drive around town, I generally get looks as if I'm a foreign dictator!

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Wow the looks I get are "keep away from me in that POS".... People tend not to park near it in a carpark. They must figure anyone with such a, um, "well used" looking 4wd doesnt' give a **** :Rolling: :Rolling:

Funny bit is it's a really straight and tiny old thing... It's just not real pretty. Maybe I should blow some paint at it someday (where would the fun be in it then though :twisted: ).

seeya,
Shane L.

[Konradical]

So after working 6 1/2- 7 days a week for what feels like forever, I did something to the ute this week!

I fitted up the flywheel and clutch after fitting a new rear seal.
Fitted 2400 bell housing to R380 gearbox and test fitted the clutch/flywheel before fitting to engine.
Ordered some more bits and bobs to help get it rolling.
Did a final cut and trim on the 45 degree section where the bulkhead gets fitted to.
And tidied up the quarter window frames so they can get fitted.

This week I hope to get the window sorted for the bulkhead and get a gearbox bracket and mounts (Something I overlooked when getting the gearbox).

I am thinking at this stage that if I can start and drive it, I can wiz it between where it is stored and the workshop and work on it in a cooler shed and without having to drag tools back and forth.

For everyone following this thread, I am sorry that it is dragging out. I will hope to have some better progress updates soon.

P.S. Does someone have or know of a D1 R380 gearbox mount around that is available? Any help would be awesome.

[Homestar]

Good to see things are still progressing.

Yes, we are following along. :)

[Shayward]

G'day

have read through this thread, really keen to see some more images of the cutting of the old body and how you fitted up the kit. Considering a similar project. look forward to the next instalment!!

Cheers Shaun:)

[Konradical]

Shaun

Thanks for the read.

Next time I am near the vehicle I will take some more pics of where I cut it and what has been done.

Currently I have been focused on getting it mobile as where it is stored at work there is no power for a welder. So it's a bit of a process wheeling it out of shelter, forking it into the shed and then back again. And considering I maybe have a hour or so a week, that's a big waste of time.

Hopefully Christmas is good to me and I can escape to get some more done.

Cheers,

Kon

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[Konradical]

Making a little bit of progress over the last few weeks. Had to work a couple of my days off over Christmas, so didn't get much time then.

Managed to get it mobile, buy only front wheel drive as my hopes of fitting a Discovery style yoke to the rest diff backfired when I found it was a four spline, not multiple. So still looking for a rear tail shaft.

I'm also not happy with the clutch. The grab point is real low to the floor and it took forever to get the air out of it. Hoping that with use and another bleed, it will come good.

Just thought I would put up a few pictures of where I am at and as requested.

Should be more progress next week, fingers crossed.

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[Konradical]

Some more

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[Konradical]

So it's been well over a year since I have been able to touch this thread AND car.

I have since left my job and in between preparing to travel the canning stock route and recovering from the stock route, have since found out we are moving back to Adelaide.

I have three months to have this thing ready. Well inspected and registered in some form.

So it's at home and I am trying to power through it.

BUT I could use some help!

Trying to work out these brackets and where everything goes is really hurting my head. LRA have given me as much instruction as they can and the rest is up to me. Is there anyone who has built one of these things?

I did read about a fella named Adam who built a green one using this kit. I can't find the thread in the search, could someone point me in the right direction please.

Once I have gained a bit of momentum, Il post more pics for you guys.

[rangieman]

This might help[wink11]
Rangie UTE Conversion (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-and-tutorials/36343-rangie-ute-conversion.html)

[Corgie Carrier]

What brackets are you talking about?

Post some pics and we should be able to help

Good luck with your progress.

My ute project will start in a couple of months[biggrin]

[Konradical]

What brackets are you talking about?

Post some pics and we should be able to help

Good luck with your progress.

My ute project will start in a couple of months[biggrin]Cheers guys.

I'm going to have check that thread out on the laptop as the pictures aren't coming up on the phone.

These are brackets I am confused about. In the online instructions there isn't any mention of them.

The short angle pieces with one end sloped and the long square angle I am sure are brackets for the corners, one for the bottom and somewhere up the top.

There is one bracket missing(might be with the other gear) but the large square plate, medium plate and long sloped angle pieces are a mystery to me.

I have also decided that instead of building a tray straight away, I will just mount the tool box I made and will build a tray when in Adelaide. I have a feeling steel prices are cheaper there than in Katherine as well.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180809/5be928572f7d26daba0fa6c165fc1b2e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180809/0f283267c4f32b0d1665f0fe0778ca1d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180809/a427719b4365bcbd38a60cb0688eded2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180809/0a44a711a7108ca379dfa9d934c4a7ea.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180809/49486febac5d6a98e275344b09feec5b.jpg

[Konradical]

This might help[wink11]
Rangie UTE Conversion (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-and-tutorials/36343-rangie-ute-conversion.html)


Unfortunately the picture aren't working.

Might have to find another thread.

Thanks for your help.

[Konradical]

So it's been the better part of 16 months, but I have finally made some progress since moving back down south!

The extra motivation of the weekend and less pressure to finish retaining walls (because they are done!), means I have some time to get what I want done.

I managed to remove the doors, seats and roof. Disposed of the carpets and the dash. My neighbour is a automotive glass guy, so he removed the windscreen and is cutting up a piece of glass for the rear.

Next weekend I will be getting a updated D1 dash, console and front doors. I plan on making these fit with some of the required panels out of the donor Disco.

When I removed the front carpets I discovered a ton of rust in the footwell, not unlike many other rangies, so will add this repair to my list. I am thinking replacement panels would be a touch easier than fabricating without the proper equipment. Unless someone in Adelaide has a unused space I can borrow for a few months.

I have been able to get some pictures and help from the Rangie ute FB page and from that worked out how I should go about a "brace" or support for the rear and a channel to secure the roof at the rear. If I didn't run out of wire I probably would have been able to finish the support today.

Other than the interior and making up the supports, at night time when I can't make too much noise I have been slowly stripping it back to the shell. This will give me a chance to find all the rust.

I have been thinking about what colour to paint it as that isn't something that has popped up yet. Did think the standard dark green the later RRC's came out in, but also thought about a flat colour of some sort. Nothing outrageous though.

The only other thing that I need to get in order is the engine. I feel like the current combination won't last too long or even pass rego due as I don't know the engines history and it being a VM which are pretty heavy on maintenance. Did think about swapping in a 300TDi, but I haven't found a running one at the right price. That swap would be the easiest as I already have a R380 and all the diesel bits are already there. Would only really need the engine, cooling package and mounts to make it work.

Lots of things to do and think about. Let's see if I can at least get it back into a shape we all know by Christmas!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200413/97ce62d74473841d1016a07696dc8157.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200413/f61a2722305114e224b56e5c40d576a8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200413/72c8c8aa026016c3b66a499b6474aede.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200413/89b7c4e79ba821245081afc932c36fe3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200413/cac7790a6dbc70fbcb1d84dcb4299a9e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200413/918740b44b43a0e759454650db64dbc6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200413/87308a953714ac90622e2f2004eaffbd.jpg

[Konradical]

So one step forward, couple of hundred backward!

After getting some more welding wire, I jumped straight into finishing the back panel off. But as I was finishing it I could hear all sorts of noises.

It turns out (I think at least) that the heat was distorting the panel. I am aware of the importance of welding sheet metal panels in a evenly spaced manner. Something wasn't right, so I stepped back and it was like looking at the ocean. Full of ripples.

I ended up cutting it out, cleaning all the surfaces up and straightening the best I could. While cutting it out I cut the upper edges near the window first and noticed that the upright moved away from the panel around 5mm. Same on both sides. The friend I had help me get that far must have used a strap to pull the sides together, thinking the panels had to meet.

While it was off, I took the time to fit up the rear roof support. This was something I have been a bit worried about since fitting the rear panel.

Amazingly with a couple of test fits, I managed to fit a section of SHS in for the width and a piece of flat bar in a curve which matches that of the roof. So a small win there.

Just before I ran out of time, I placed the rear panel back and found many inventive ways to clamp it in place. Hopefully the next shot at it will have the wall back in place and me astarting on the rusty floors.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/17674ed8ce38f8156f96d48f87918714.jpg

[Mercguy]

envious of your space... and the ute project. I wanted to do this to mine, no space though.

[loanrangie]

If I was doing one now I'd use a D1 or D2.

[Corgie Carrier]

Can't beat the shape of a RRC and being a ute makes it even cooler.

I'll get time to start mine one day.
Last couple of years have been crazy at work.

[Tins]

If I was doing one now I'd use a D1 or D2.

With all this time I'm almost itching to take to my D2 with the grinder and Hacksall, but space and money...

160105

I've looked long at this car, and it would be super easy.

[Konradical]

I didn't get as much time this weekend, but I did managed to get the back panel back on and tacked in place. Must have taken me about 20mins a weld making sure it was square tight and not warped/warping.

Over the course of the week I have stripped all outer panels and exposed any extra rust. Surprisingly there wasn't all that much more than I could already see. There is however a very high amount of red dust everywhere and I feel like it has been in a river somewhere.

Next weekend I hope to finish the back panel, finalise the rear roof mount and cut out/repair the floors and sills. Can measure up the shapes and have them folded during the week.

Then comes the dash and firewall..

Does anybody know what the sheet metal thickness would be? 1.6mm? I feel 2mm would be too much.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/7e36a113e089bced1d0b814a1ec9ba5e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/04f0e77e77652efe20c3c0db11a7c4a0.jpg

[Homestar]

Yes, would go 1.6mm, not less that 1.2mm I would say.

[Konradical]

I did think that initially, considering the factory panels, but wanted to see what most people did/used before.

Sort of not looking forward to cutting the area out and plating it. Will just have to take my time.

[Tins]

Can't beat the shape of a RRC and being a ute makes it even cooler.

I'll get time to start mine one day.
Last couple of years have been crazy at work.

Nothing wrong with the Disco shape either, and maybe a D2 chassis could be in better shape.....

[Tins]

I did think that initially, considering the factory panels, but wanted to see what most people did/used before.

Sort of not looking forward to cutting the area out and plating it. Will just have to take my time.

Hard to tell from the pics, did yours begin life as a 2 door?

[Konradical]

Hard to tell from the pics, did yours begin life as a 2 door?No. It's a '88 four door Turbo D.

I feel a two door would have been a lot easier.. but at a sacrifice.