No 5 Trailer hitch height - help please

[debruiser]

Looking to try to get the No5 to tow level behind the Defender and Series. Got the trailer sitting level (with a spirit level in the shed) bottom of the 50mm ball coupling is 680mm. Defender is 500mm.

Do those figures sound right?

My 2nd question is, if I cut the drawbar of the trailer to lower it somewhat do I really need to go the whole 180mm lower? or would 100mm be enough?

Would it be advisable to gain some of that height from removing the bottom 2 leaves (shortest 2) from the trailer spring pack? I'll be running it at roughly 750kgs permanently.

[BreakingBad]

Have you considered changing the springs from over axle to under axle? Although this will reduce trailer clearance.

[BadCo.]

A good excuse for bigger lift and tires for the defender :)

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[debruiser]

Have you considered changing the springs from over axle to under axle? Although this will reduce trailer clearance.

I did think of that.... but I've got a different axle to standard - it's thicker so I think it would get too squishy between the axle and bump stop.

[debruiser]

A good excuse for bigger lift and tires for the defender :)

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

haha yea I thought of that... but I have a D90, so would be a very involved/expensive exercise.

[slug_burner]

I think you could get the trailer to ride level by getting a piece of right angle like I piece of metal lintel bolted to the front face of the drawbar tube. You could get the whole 180mm done that way. I think if you look around you'll find some one will have some photos of a similar conversion.

Do you want to run the trailer at 750kg ATM or do you want to load it up with 750kg. If the second you will need to put brakes on the trailer.

[debruiser]

I think you could get the trailer to ride level by getting a piece of right angle like I piece of metal lintel bolted to the front face of the drawbar tube. You could get the whole 180mm done that way. I think if you look around you'll find some one will have some photos of a similar conversion.

Do you want to run the trailer at 750kg ATM or do you want to load it up with 750kg. If the second you will need to put brakes on the trailer.

Thanks, my tube has had a flat cut on the top to fit the override system there, so was thinking of cutting that off and replacing it with something.... What thickness angle would you suggest?

I'll be at 750kg ATM.

[slug_burner]

Here is pic of something like what I meant.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/807.jpg

The horizontal leg can be lengthened with a piece of plate to which you can bolt your coupling. In the above they have used a Treg type of coupling.

I would use at least 1/2 inch, I think it depend on how long the legs of the right angle are. If you consider the material thickness used on the tongue of a tow bar, they are approx 3/4 of an inch. I'll look around for a pic to see if I can find something suitable.

You could use something like this but instead of the ball you need to attach the coupling. You only need the right angle bit. You could go to a fabricator/metal monger and get them to cut and bend up a bit of plate to make the bit to bolt to the front of your tube and to accept the coupling. Draw up a diagram with your dimensions and get one bent up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/808.jpg

[carlschmid2002]

This is what I used when I had my No 5 tailer. Th back door of my Defender 90 would still open if I turned it up so it was high enough for the trailer.

[debruiser]

I should have posted this first up... sorry...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/806.jpg (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/debruiser/media/No5%20Camper/DSC_0005copy_zps3b004598.jpg.html)

That's what I ahve now.... should make more cents ;)

took this pic a while back when I was mocking it up... trying to figure out if I could just use a lifted tongue.... but now i have a rijidij dual bar w/jerry carrier so there is less room above sort of

[slug_burner]

You will only be able to lift the tow ball until the coupling touches the underside of your spare unless you extend the tow bar to get more clearance. It is doable but extending the tow bar gooseneck increases the lever operating on the back of your vehicle, with light trailers it should be ok.

[debruiser]

You will only be able to lift the tow ball until the coupling touches the underside of your spare unless you extend the tow bar to get more clearance. It is doable but extending the tow bar gooseneck increases the lever operating on the back of your vehicle, with light trailers it should be ok.

Yea I was opting to change the trailer rather than move the tow ball further back, I like the tow ball nearly connected to the rear axle.... :D

[wpalmo]

Looks like you have modified the coupling to a hydraulic brake from the original Pintal hitch? Are you carrying heavy loads in the trailer and need hydraulic brakes? I thought the no5 was only rated to 750kg's all up anyway?

If you have a swing away spare wheel carrier can't you just swing the wheel away and hitch the trailer or does the spare fowl the top of the hitch when you swing it back to close? Maybe you can raise the height of the spare mount on the carrier 50mm (I am sure you have probably considered this anyway). Might be the best way to go as increasing the length of the receiver may cause other complications if it is not engineered correctly and you are intending to carry heavy loads.

Good luck.

Regards Warrick.

[debruiser]

Looks like you have modified the coupling to a hydraulic brake from the original Pintal hitch? Are you carrying heavy loads in the trailer and need hydraulic brakes? I thought the no5 was only rated to 750kg's all up anyway?

If you have a swing away spare wheel carrier can't you just swing the wheel away and hitch the trailer or does the spare fowl the top of the hitch when you swing it back to close? Maybe you can raise the height of the spare mount on the carrier 50mm (I am sure you have probably considered this anyway). Might be the best way to go as increasing the length of the receiver may cause other complications if it is not engineered correctly and you are intending to carry heavy loads.

Good luck.

Regards Warrick.

Thanks Warrick, the PO had modified the trailer to have hydraulic brakes. I like the idea of having them - that extra little bit of help stopping, a little more stability even if I'm not really "needing" them.

The spare wheel is no longer an issue - it's over to one side, its the jerry carrier - I have to open it to hitch up any trailer. Ok well maybe I could do it without but it's a site easier open. I'd prefer not change my $50k defender.... the $1k trailer on the other hand.... ;) Plus I really need more than 50mm. it's more like 150-180mm.