Def. 110 to 90 conversion??

[Greylandy]

G'day all,

I'm thinking of converting my 110 hardtop to a 90 as this is the only way the wife will let me keep 2 defenders :roll: :wink: It will be hers if it happens.

So the question is what do I need for the conversion? I'm thinking:
chassis
exhaust
rear prop shaft (could just cut the existing one?)
rear trail arms (not sure?)
Brake lines
fuel tank
rear tub, roof and side panels.

Anything else I'm missing? The major issue is to get hold of a 90 chassis which I presume is a hopeless case in AU. It might be a possibility to cut the 110 chassis and replace the rear cross section. Sounds like a big job 8O

Any wisdom/suggestions welcome. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif

Henry.

[Frenchie]

You could find an old Rangie as a donor for the chassis and either have a 100" or cut the chassis.

(And you could have a V8 8) )

Advantage here is that you could use the Rangie fuel tank. (You could use the whole rolling chassis if you wanted).

Also no need to source a rear tub/body, just cut the existing one. The DVD "A 4wd is born" would be a good investment.

[drover81]

Just guessing, but it'd probably be cheaper to sell the 110 and buy a (2nd hand) 90.

But if you are considering this undertaking.....
I've seen some wrecked 90's floating around at the auction houses, you might be lucky and be able to find a useful one there where you can source almost everything you'd need. And some spares to boot!

If there's any left-over panels I'd be keen to take a look at them, esp. the roof!!!!

[BMac]

http://www.designa-chassis.co.uk/ supply galv LR chassis and cost around $3000 landed in Oz.


Bruce.

[Greylandy]

Originally posted by Frenchie
You could find an old Rangie as a donor for the chassis and either have a 100" or cut the chassis.

I think that will be the option if I can't find a 90 chassis ... and like you say the DVD will be a good source for information.


Originally posted by BMac
http://www.designa-chassis.co.uk/ supply galv LR chassis and cost around $3000 landed in Oz.

Thanks for the link Bruce ... $3k is not unreasonable so might be an option. I might have to bring some panels from the UK as well so could possibly combine a shipment.


Originally posted by drover81
Just guessing, but it'd probably be cheaper to sell the 110 and buy a (2nd hand) 90.

But if you are considering this undertaking.....
I've seen some wrecked 90's floating around at the auction houses, you might be lucky and be able to find a useful one there where you can source almost everything you'd need. And some spares to boot!

If there's any left-over panels I'd be keen to take a look at them, esp. the roof!!!!

The problem is finding a 2nd hand 90 is as difficult as finding a chassis. Although I'm in NSW so there might be more up North.

I'll start phoning around to see if there might be a wrecker or parts shop with something ... I'm not holding my breath though. :wink:

[british4wd]

The biggest problem you will have is with your State Transport Dept. If you change your chassis you will be changing the Vehicle Identification Number.
Before you start check with the transport dept as to what is permissible, some states are realistic to deal with others will have you tearing your hair out. So check with them first bfore spending an money.

Good luck

Alan Howard

[PhilipA]

These guys will tell you exactly what you need and may have some stuff as they used to import wrecked ones from UK and rebuild.
http://www.britishoffroad.com/.
Regards Philip A

[BMac]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>The biggest problem you will have is with your State Transport Dept. If you change your chassis you will be changing the Vehicle Identification Number.
[/b][/quote]

Thats what I love about Series vehicles - the chassis No. plate is riveted to the bulkhead inside the car. The girl at the Dept Road just shook her head when I took it in for registration style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

It makes it more "portable" 8)

Bruce.

[Reads90]

Originally posted by Greylandy
G'day all,

I'm thinking of converting my 110 hardtop to a 90 as this is the only way the wife will let me keep 2 defenders :roll: :wink: It will be hers if it happens.

So the question is what do I need for the conversion? I'm thinking:
chassis
exhaust
rear prop shaft (could just cut the existing one?)
rear trail arms (not sure?)
Brake lines
fuel tank
rear tub, roof and side panels.

Anything else I'm missing? The major issue is to get hold of a 90 chassis which I presume is a hopeless case in AU. It might be a possibility to cut the 110 chassis and replace the rear cross section. Sounds like a big job 8O

Any wisdom/suggestions welcome. :lol:

Henry.

East to do it
The rear trailing arms are the same. The back axel on a 90 is the same as a s1 disco , but the 110 has a saislbury axel. But this will be no problem apart from the fact that you may find it a bit difficult to find an off the shelf prop as the noise on the saislbury diff is longer than the 90 axel and diff set up.

From the rear bulkhead forward thay are the same truck so that is no problem , the chassis are the same apart from the 90 being 92 3/4 " wheel base and the 110 being 110 " wheel base (don't forget that alot of people think the 90 is 90" wheel base. Seen it done and then people wonder way the props or rear tub does not fit.

As for the rear tub, do you have a ute or van if you do cut the rear body down to fit, easy to do, and then put a 90 soft top on it. Easyest way to get over doing the roof

Feul tank on the 90 (pre TD5) is under the drivers seat so that is easy to get one of those and put it under the seat. Or you can put a td5 90 tank which goes in the back above the rear axel and in front 0f the rear crossmember. With the td5 tank you can use the 110 filler on the drivers side rear, but with the pre TD5 tank (under the seat) the filler is behind the drivers door and not at the rear.

Brake lines and exhaust are easy as they can be made. The exhaust you should be able to pick up off the shelf. Brake lines make them you self.

[sclarke]

Mr GreyLandy,
If you go the option to do the body change i will offer you the going rate for a 2nd hand 110 roof. I'm not fussed in paying the going rate if its still in good nick.
I'll even come up to grab it......

Steve

[DaveS3]

Cut the 110 chassis down to suit the new wheelbase.

Id actually make it so its an 90' exactly.
Use a standard 88' tub (cut arches to suit)
This would work i think as a rear series axle is 2' forward of the centre line of the wheelarches.

If you did this, you could use a standard 88' prop as the pinion on the sals is 2' longer than a rover.

Cut down your roof and use 88' sides.

Everthing will work I think style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif
I am just wondering though, as a series axle is 4' forwad in comparison to a coiler, what the new WB would be if you were to keep the 88' tub.
Im pretty sure it would still be 90' with the sals.

Id even go as far as to say no custom parts except
A few new solid break lines,
Exhaust
Roof and that would be almost it!
Modded rear shaft

Anyway, if your do it, just measure heaps.

Dave.

[Ace]

Couldnt you just find a wrecked series III SWB and swap your bits over, i know the Series III is an 88", but this might be a cheaper option, diffs, drive train etc should fit ok. Matt

[VladTepes]

The Plan.

1. Paint Hardtop same colour as Timmo's 90.
2. Drive to Cairns.
3. Drive home in a nice 90.
4. Make sure to leave note for Timmo as follows:

Dear Timmo,

Have arranged the Limousine treatment (ie, a stretch) for your car. No need to thank me - all part of the friendly service.

Sincerely,
(insert someone else's name here)

[LRHybrid100]

perfect candidate for a D100!!!

NSW engineers should pass a D110 shortend - you even have the correct rear tub to shorten.

JUST DO IT!!!

LRH

[abaddonxi]

The rear propshaft on my 3.9 ute went. So I called the local guy to get one in for me.

I drove out to his place and found it was 10" too short.

Turns out the Isuzu ute was stretched 10".

Custom propshaft.

Place in Parramatta - does trucks and stuff - made them up for Land Rover Australia. I called them, they said $750.

Another spares place suggested I get the longest Land Rover propshaft I could find and get a shop to cut and weld the extra length in. $250 for the shaft another $100 for the cut and stretch.

Simon

[LandyAndy]

Hi Bruce
Series Landies do actually have a chassis no on the chassis,its just that the transport people dont know where to look.It should be above the rearmost left spring hanger.
Andrew

[BMac]

Well I'll be......

Thanks Andy style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

[Greylandy]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys ... certainly a few options to consider. I'd prefer to spend as little money as possible so cutting it down to size might be the go.

I'd still prefer a 90 or 88' as I don't think the wife will see the difference between a D100 and D110 ... I'm thinking 90 in Tangiers Orange with a black soft top ... she'll love it.

Did I hear anybody volunteering to give me a hand??? style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif

Thanks guys ... appreciate all the advice.

Henry.

[LRHybrid100]

Mate I'm there - just let me know what to bring and we'll build her!!!

LRH

[VladTepes]

Sure Henry - I'll happily give you a hand to drive it.

How's "month about" sound :?:

[modman]

anthony johnson in melb. (british4x4) used to import 90's to sell localy.
he also used to buy 130's and 110 utes to turn into 90's and sell.
last i vwas there he still had one 90 chassis. he always has bits around and likes to chat(especialy when you buy stuff style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif )
david