Standard Defender 90 Numbers

[Witchdoctor]

Hi Guys
Im chasing measurements from the centre of the wheel hub to the bottom edge of the guard on both sides including front & rear on a standard 90.

Appreciate all the help

Cheers
David

[Plutei]

I can't help you out.

However, unless it doesn't suit your purposes I think it would be better to use bump stop distances as there is actual literature on design bump stop distances.

[loneranger]

I'll get the tape measure out tonight.

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[loneranger]

Just to clarify. I assume you're talking about the wheel arches.

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[loneranger]

If I measured the correct bit for you 450mm all round front and rear.

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[Witchdoctor]

Thanks loneranger,

I take it your 90 is stock standard?

From centre of hub to bottom edge of flared guard.

Great work

Cheers
David

[Marty90]

If I measured the correct bit for you 450mm all round front and rear.

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That can't be right.Mine sits at 470mm,with bullbar and winch.

[loneranger]

Mine is stock and I measured from the centre of the hub to the bottom of the flared wheel guard. Just checked I measured out to the sides. Measuring vertically gives 490mm at the front and 485mm at the back.

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[Witchdoctor]

Just measured mine.

Front with steel bull bar & 9000lb winch-447
Rear with draw system & fridge -495

Trying to work out details for new coils as the rear was bottoming out on the tracks on Fraser.

Thanks for the input

David

[Witchdoctor]

Update.

Just finished installing custom a coil & shock setup to the 90

The front has gone from 447 to 525
The rear has gone from 495 to 535

The new setup will settle a little, it rides a little stiffer in the rear at slow speed but on the 1 hour run home at 100K's it just like it always has, nice & comfortable.

Cheers
David

[AndyG]

Did you change the front prop shaft as well?

[Marty90]

Probably won't need to.At that height it's probably about 35mm over stock.Only when you go 50mm+ is when you're looking at DC shafts.My 90's pretty well set up the same as witchdoctor and I've just fitted Lovells raised height all round with Bilsteins.The front lifted about 30mm and back about 50mm from stock.Ride is probably softer than stock but more controlled.Very happy with it.No side effects at all and we'll see how they bed in over time.

[Longtimer]

Gents,

I am looking to lift my MY14 90 about 35 to 40mm. But I want to keep the same spring rate. I feel that the STD spring rate is really good.

I don't know, as I haven't actually measured it yet, but I think the weight of my ARB roo bar has dropped the front a little more than I would like. Plus my belly tanks could do with some extra clearance. The extra fuel capasity is well worth it gents. 1200Km range.

Getting back on topic.....

My questions are......

Who makes good springs these days?
What do you guys recommend as good spring/shock combinations?
What are the approximate costs for upgrading?


Cheers,

Phill.

[Witchdoctor]

An update.

The changes work very well as i have said earlier BUT i pull a work trailer every day (Carpenter).
After hitching the trailer this morning the trailer changed a few things, the rear dropped from 525 to 515 & the front went up from 540 to 548.

The extra gain in the front was enough to introduce the dreaded front haft vibration between 60 & 80K's.

So back to the drawing board this Saturday at the coil works.
I will post the changers later

Cheers
David

[AndyG]

Sounds like you should test it fully loaded for a trip, and it highlights how sensitive it is to small changes

[Witchdoctor]

Righto,

After the second visit to the coil shop the set up is like this.
Image
1 Front coil difference
2 Front set up
3 Rear set up

Front:
King Springs Range Rover raised coils with OzTec Defender Shocks
Hight was 540mm now 530. Stock 490mm
The new coils are a little softer but better reactor to short hard bumps. A much nicer ride in my view

Rear:
King Springs Discovery raised coils with OzTec Defender shocks
Hight was 525mm now 532. Stock 485mm
These coils are taller & a little stiffer for when the work trailer is on. Then when the camping gear is loaded in we get the same affect, a nicer more controlled ride

Just some other info whilst i was in the shop we put the truck on the 4 wheel scales after fitting the new suspension.

Total weight of truck 2144Kg Max
Factory 1815Kg
Front axle 1062Kg
Rear Axle 1082Kg

All 4 corners were within 5Kg's of each other.

So its very nicely balanced & a much better ride I'm thinking

Cheers

[debruiser]

Righto,
Just some other info whilst i was in the shop we put the truck on the 4 wheel scales after fitting the new suspension.

Total weight of truck 2144Kg Max
Factory 1815Kg
Front axle 1062Kg
Rear Axle 1082Kg

All 4 corners were within 5Kg's of each other.

So its very nicely balanced & a much better ride I'm thinking

Cheers

This must in a large way explain why they handle so well. Isn't that sports car stuff having all the corners the same weight

[Witchdoctor]

I like your thinking debruiser,

But my truck is not factory. I have a twin battery under the seat a 40Lt fridge in the rear on the same side as the extra battery & really nothing on the drivers side & for me this does not make sense to me, truck should be heaver on the passengers side.

It just shows that because the weight is positioned in a particular location the weight distribution moves through the chassis.

I will post the exact weights & location shortly

Cheers

[Witchdoctor]

Some weights on my 90

Front Left 535Kg Front Right 518Kg

Rear Left 561Kg Rear Right 573Kg

The numbers may not look close but as a whole they are.
Looking at it there is more load in the rear by the numbers but the draws are all alloy with a fridge on the left is only 25Kg, does not look right as the bull bar & winch weigh 70Kg.

It just goes to show that it is not always what it seems!

Cheers

[debruiser]

Some weights on my 90

Front Left 535Kg Front Right 518Kg

Rear Left 561Kg Rear Right 573Kg

The numbers may not look close but as a whole they are.
Looking at it there is more load in the rear by the numbers but the draws are all alloy with a fridge on the left is only 25Kg, does not look right as the bull bar & winch weigh 70Kg.

It just goes to show that it is not always what it seems!

Cheers

Remember that the engine starts a long way back (front of hte engine is behind the front axle) and then the gearbox/transfer is WAY back in the car. so would distribute significantly more weight to the rear axle compared to a 110.

If you think in percentages then the difference left to right is only ~5% front to back is only ~7-10%. I'm no engineer but to me that is pretty close.

[AndyG]

It does make you wonder why LR recommends higher tyre pressure in the rear, even when unloaded

[debruiser]

yea good point. Have you tried running yours at the same pressure?

I run 30psi front, 35 rear when empty. never tried running 30 all round, although when I go offroading I deflate to the same pressure all round.

[AndyG]

I have a fair bit of permanent weight in the rear, esp fuel and recovery gear, but am working my way down to a lower pressure.
Off road I deflate by %, not absolutes. So sand might be 40% all round

[Witchdoctor]

AndyG,

It does not matter the weight that my truck has in it, the tyres go down to 15PSI on sand no excuse.

As for general tyre pressure i run 34PSI all round on the black stuff in currant setup.

Google the 4PSI way of setting tyre pressure

It works very well

Cheers

[debruiser]

Don't u feel like it wants to understeer with 34 in the front

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[Longtimer]

I run 34 all round on mine. That gives no change to the steering when emergency breaking, and is good for hwy running (which I do a heap of).

32 gives a better wear pattern, but after having to do an emergency stop and experiencing tyre flex, which changes your steering, I would rather the slightly harder ride.


Cheers,

Phill.

[Witchdoctor]

debruiser,

I have no real issue with 34Psi as long as i get good tyre wear to me that is the most important considering the cost of the little black things!
I drive my 90 hard on the black top & it handles great.

Cheers