Better Brakes

[alexcd]

I've recently put some 32" tyres on my '89 Rangie and have noticed that the braking performance is not quite as good now. Its still acceptable, but im interested in how i can improve there performance.
Any ideas?

[72pug]

hi there, had a similar issue of underpowered brakes with extra weight in and on the car.......fixed it (front only)..with a set of DBA gold, drilled and slotted disks (s1 disco) i think the code for them was dba087x???.......will have a look if you need confirmation.

they are excellent for repeated stops, and work better with increased heat,.......also the grooves help to disslodge all the muck that gets in there,......ended up putting in bendix 4wd pads and have not looked back....over 90,000ks and no worries, good pad wear too.

cheers,

Wayne.

[LRHybrid100]

Kevlar pads - like EBC Green Stuff ones

LRH

[MickG]

Originally posted by 72pug
hi there, had a similar issue of underpowered brakes with extra weight in and on the car.......fixed it (front only)..with a set of DBA gold, drilled and slotted disks (s1 disco) i think the code for them was dba087x???.......will have a look if you need confirmation.

they are excellent for repeated stops, and work better with increased heat,.......also the grooves help to disslodge all the muck that gets in there,......ended up putting in bendix 4wd pads and have not looked back....over 90,000ks and no worries, good pad wear too.

cheers,

Wayne.

What sort of cost are you looking at for doing this Wayne?

[HSVRangie]

Originally posted by LRHybrid100
Kevlar pads - like EBC Green Stuff ones

LRH

yep go the ebc greenstuf.

not cheap but fixes the issue.

If you can find opne LRA used to do a after market booster that also helped greatly.

Michael.

[rick130]

Interesting you fellas are using the EBC pads.
When I upgraded the brakes on the 'fender, I wanted to use the Greenstuff pads, and bounced it off one of the engineers at DBA and he recommended Ferodo.
DBA do a lot of on car testing with different pads and compounds and he felt at the time that EBC were too inconsistent batch to batch and he really didn't like that.
He reckoned that Bendix were behind the game with Asbestos free compounds and that Ferodo were probably pick of the crop.

I bought some Ferodo 4wd pads, and I wasn't very impressed at all when I fitted them. I followed the bedding instructions to the letter, yet the friggin truck wouldn't stop 250km later !
I went back to the tried and true race procedure of several green fade
periods, eg. 100km/h, and hammer the brakes to just above stopping, then drive for 10-15 minutes without touching them to let them cool to ambient, then repeat another two times. The fade was phenomenal initially, then after letting them thoroughly cool, Voila ! I had a 4wd that stopped again.
FWIW, I'm using the DBA slotted rotors, (which are Brembo castings. I don't like cross drilled rotors, they tend to crack) stainless braided hoses and the Ferodo 4WD pads. (but I'd love to try the EBC's)

[Slunnie]

I have had EBC Greenstuff for a while now.

The first set where absolutely sensational. Couldn't speak more highly of them. Cold, hot or smoking they stopped on a dim with a loaded trailer and using the factory LR rotors

The second set are pretty ordinary. Heat them up and they walk off the job. I have had them completely fade on me driving the same hill in the same conditions that had the first set working at their best. The second set were also on the EBC slotted and dimpled rotors.

[Slunnie]

Originally posted by rick130
I bought some Ferodo 4wd pads, and I wasn't very impressed at all when I fitted them. I followed the bedding instructions to the letter, yet the friggin truck wouldn't stop 250km later !
I went back to the tried and true race procedure of several green fade
periods, eg. 100km/h, and hammer the brakes to just above stopping, then drive for 10-15 minutes without touching them to let them cool to ambient, then repeat another two times. The fade was phenomenal initially, then after letting them thoroughly cool, Voila ! I had a 4wd that stopped again.
Maybe I need to try this. We used to bed in our racing brakes just by getting them bloody hot. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif Is it just one really hard brake from 100km/h then idle home for 15 mins. Do that 3 times? Whats happening to cause the probs and what happens when you do this?

[rick130]

Slunnie, like I mentioned in my post, Steve from DBA reckoned that EBC were inconsistent, batch to batch.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>
Rick,
I think the Ferodo pads are leading the race in the Australian
market at the moment for the least amount of hassles. Bendix seem to be
struggling with the Non Asbestos compounds and may take a little while
to get back in control.
It's not hard to tell I am not a big fan of EBC mainly because there
seem to be large variations in their batches and they always tend to
blame the other guy when problems occur.
Motospecs are the Australian distributor for Ferodo. They use the Bendix
part numbers when looking for the right pad. Also a phone # 02 9847 5755

I hope this helps!

Regards
[/b][/quote]

The bedding procedure for the Ferodos was very specific, no more than 60km/h, do not come top a dead stop (superheats pads) allow X number of minutes/km between applications, do this X number of times, no hard braking for the next 200km, etc.
Didn't bloody work. Might be Ok in the city with stop start driving, but not here in the bush.

The Ferodo race pads we useed to use ( IIRC, 3410 & 4003 compounds) just had to be 'snubbed' into the disc and they were ready to go. No real bedding procedure required.
A set of Mintex pads I tried (1144 ??) were supposed to be the same, prety much bed free, so I threw a set on for qualifying at Amaroo once and ended the seesion with hardly any brakes !
Tried to use them in the race and punted off the third place bloke at Honda on the opening lap. :oops: That carted me off the track as well, and sans nose cone drove back through the field, setting fastest lap 'cause I was carrying so much bloody corner speed !

Afterwards we tried milling a few mm off the face of the pad, but they still wouldn't work, so I binned them.

The old asbestos DS11 Ferodo compound needed a savage caning to get working, multiple high speed stops from as fast as you could go, with lengthy (10-15 min of driving, no brakes) cool periods between.
I just did that with these pads and it worked. This compound will fade if I hammer it down a mountan pass, but realistically I'm being abusive, and they come back with a little cool dowm period.

If anyone wants exceptional pads, you can get Formula Ferodo or DT2000 pads for Landies.
This is the recently retired DS2000 race pad, used in WRC and Super Tourers world wide. This thing has stopping power and fade resistance, so I'm told, and is the darling of WRX and GTR owners who kill pads like Bendix Ultimates and Greenstuff.

[rick130]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Whats happening to cause the probs and what happens when you do this?
[/b][/quote]

when a friction compound is made, a certain amount of resins and binders are used to hold it all together.
When you 'bed' them, you are literally boiling all the crap out of the pad compound.
Some pads already come bedded or 'pre-burnished' as Perfomance Friction (Carbon Metallic pads) like to say. I think all they do is heat the suckers up after manufacture, so doing the job for you. I've seen blokes perform the same job with an oxy before fitting the pads.

You do have to be careful, as some compounds like/need to be brought on slower, or you'll end up with pads like the Mintex ones in the post above.