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Judo
18th October 2015, 08:02 PM
I'm on (almost) the last step of rebuilding my LT230 - setting the bearing preload on the intermediate gears with the collapsable spacer. I have the collapsable spacer inside the gears, intermediate shaft in place with taper bearings, but stake nut doesn't take any end float away.

I'm up to 100Nm and there is still tons of end float in the intermediate gears.

I found this on youtube and it shows close to how much movement I still have in the intermediate gears.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dNqsxOJjrk

What have I done wrong? :confused:

justinc
18th October 2015, 08:18 PM
You haven't got it tight enough yet to begin collapsing the spacer. It IS a collapsible spacer isnt it that you have been given???

Jc

Judo
18th October 2015, 08:27 PM
I sure hope so! It came in a rebuild kit from Ashcroft's, so I reckon so. :)

Thanks JC, I will break out the breaker bar then. ;) If it is no surprise it hasn't started taking up at 100Nm, then no worries. I wasn't expecting that much - didn't want to snap something on the last step!

Disco Muppet
18th October 2015, 08:45 PM
If you go to the Gold Coast section and read through Presto's rebuild of his 110 you'll find a post about doing exactly that.
You have to tighten the crap out of it!

Judo
19th October 2015, 08:50 AM
OK, just read through Presto's comments. Better go to the gym tonight.

Vern
21st October 2015, 06:24 PM
Are you up to the input gear yet justin?? I have some questions about it but don't want to hijack your thread! Yet😊

Pateyw
21st October 2015, 07:49 PM
It takes quite a bit of pressure at first but once it starts to collapse you feel it lighten up and then start the preload.

Judo
21st October 2015, 09:20 PM
I'm done. Once I got out the breaker bar it was much easier. :)

Questions Damien? :)

Vern
21st October 2015, 09:32 PM
Are you replacing the input gear?
If you are I am just seeing if you need to re shim it?
And the rear cover that the bearing race is in, does a gasket go under it? (Between it and the tcase)

I have just fitted my modded input gear I got from ancient mariner, and either I need a gasket for that plate or to reduce my shim by .95mm.
It has been a while since I stripped this box and can't remember if it has a gasket or not.

Judo
21st October 2015, 09:58 PM
Early ones had gaskets, later ones are sealant. Before serial 288709E is gaskets and after is sealant.

Either way, yes if you change the input gear you'll need to re-shim it. The shims are behind the tapered bearing track in the plate. I doubt the gasket would ever be that thick anyway. I would re-shim it and just use (a very small bead of) sealant.

You must have changed the input bearings / bearing tracks if you're using a new input gear?

Vern
21st October 2015, 10:14 PM
Yeah input bearings and races have been changed, just need to source shims to suit now.:)
Thanks for the gasket info, was what I was after

Vern
22nd October 2015, 12:04 PM
Well sourced some shims, turns out i bought a heap a few years ago! That was easy.

Judo
24th October 2015, 07:28 PM
Today's valuable lesson brought to you by me.

I just finished refitting my LT230 and I highly recommend leaving the input gear out until the case is bolted to the gearbox. I spent about 2 hours trying to get the splines to align and push it together under the vehicle! I finally decided to remove the input gear and it became clear I should have done that 1:50 ago. Took 10 minutes after that. What a waste of 2 hours!

bee utey
24th October 2015, 07:39 PM
Today's valuable lesson brought to you by me.

I just finished refitting my LT230 and I highly recommend leaving the input gear out until the case is bolted to the gearbox. I spent about 2 hours trying to get the splines to align and push it together under the vehicle! I finally decided to remove the input gear and it became clear I should have done that 1:50 ago. Took 10 minutes after that. What a waste of 2 hours!
???

Engage high range and CDL, use two 150mm guide pins and rotate an output flange until it slips on. Should take less than a minute.

Judo
24th October 2015, 08:47 PM
???

Engage high range and CDL, use two 150mm guide pins and rotate an output flange until it slips on. Should take less than a minute.
Yep, I did all of that... Just wasn't working for me. I assume, even though I was using guide pins and all, that something must have been misaligned still. No idea why else it was being so painful!

Vern
24th October 2015, 08:55 PM
Soooo much easier to fit input gear afterwards😊

TeamFA
27th October 2015, 04:01 PM
???

Engage high range and CDL, use two 150mm guide pins and rotate an output flange until it slips on. Should take less than a minute.

I must admit that I didn't even use any 150mm guide pins - just me and a mate maneuvering the thing into place, then grab an output flange with CDL engaged and rotate, slotted into place - less than a minute in total from lifting off the ground.

Bad luck Judo, the gods were not smiling on you this time.