Rear door not unlocking.....

[Longtimer]

Gents,

My MY14 90' has a problem with the back door no longer unlocking unless you hold up the handle and use the key. But it locks fine......
Any one else have this problem?
Tyre issue perhaps? Just as well I haven't been over any serious corrugations.......


I am going to need to take it in for warranty work soon anyway.... There's engine oil leaking (weeping) from the bell housing, so the rear main is leaking..... And some other minor stuff. So I want to get everything done at once......


I will have to take my computer out though, and put the original back in..... :-(

What a drab run in that will be..... The 170 remap is to live for..... :-)


Cheers,

Phill.

[filcar]

I had the same issue with my MY2012 90. I thought it was dust in the lock so took the lock out and cleaned it and lubricated with Silicon lubricant and it OK for a short time but then started playing up again. It deteriorated to a stage where the key wouldn't unlock the door either.

Replaced under warranty and no problems since.

[loneranger]

I'm currently working with the dealer on trying to find out what's wrong with the central locking on my 2014 110. Sometimes it sounds like it's dying but we can't work out which sensor it is. They're considering replacing the rear sensors as they appear to be the main problem.

Take yours in to your dealer and they should replace under warranty.

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[DOS LANDY]

I also had the same issue with my 2014 110 rear door lock. Ended up having the actuator replaced under warranty about 5 months ago and no issues since.
Cheers Sean

[DiscoMick]

The driver's side rear door on our Defender doesn't lock/unlock with the remote either. Replacing the actuator made no difference. Must be electrical somewhere I guess. Will be looked at again at the next service.


Have you lubricated your rear door lock? If it's locking then it must be receiving a signal.

[Longtimer]

It lock fine.

But it doesn't electronically unlock. And to do it with the key you have to hold the handle up, and you can feel a clunk with the key as it does unlock. I will have to book in for replacement under warranty I think.
They can do it at the same time as they are doing the rear main. :-(


Thanks gents. :-)


Cheers,

Phill.

[justinc]

The driver's side rear door on our Defender doesn't lock/unlock with the remote either. Replacing the actuator made no difference. Must be electrical somewhere I guess. Will be looked at again at the next service.


Have you lubricated your rear door lock? If it's locking then it must be receiving a signal.

Get them to check the wiring where it goes through the convoluted rubber conduit at the b pillar. They pinch and eventually break the wires. Have repaired heaps of them.

Jc

[4wheeler]

Gents,

My MY14 90' has a problem with the back door no longer unlocking unless you hold up the handle and use the key. But it locks fine......
Any one else have this problem?
Tyre issue perhaps? Just as well I haven't been over any serious corrugations.......


I am going to need to take it in for warranty work soon anyway.... There's engine oil leaking (weeping) from the bell housing, so the rear main is leaking..... And some other minor stuff. So I want to get everything done at once......


I will have to take my computer out though, and put the original back in..... :-(

What a drab run in that will be..... The 170 remap is to live for..... :-)


Cheers,

Phill.

Phill,
My 2013 Defender 110 has gone out in sympathy.
Back door lock would not unlock after I blew air into it to remove dust. Was working fine prior to that. Anyway put some lubricant in there and once again blew it around with compressed air and it is working again. Don't know how long that will last before dirt gets in there again.
My rear main seal is weeping as well, just very slightly at only 19,000km. My other Defender leaked and so did my 2012 Mazda BT50 3.2, all about the same time. Not too confident in the seals!

[Longtimer]

4Wheeler,

I can't believe what I am hearing here.... Admitting to owning a Mazda.... The shame of it....
But..... I suppose.... You have seen the error of your ways. And, come back to the fold. :D Hallelujah Brother! :D You've seen the light. :D

Perhaps the weaping rear main is problematic with the puma series engine. And there I was thinking that, with my luck, I copped a dud. :p My leak was spotted at the 20K service. It's due now for it's 40K, so I get it all fixed up soon. I will ring around to check prices on the service though. It's marvelous how much it can vary, according to company and who you talk to.

Tomorrow I will spray some gun oil into the lock. I don't know how much good it will do. As it's not catching when you initially turn the key, as it would be for the pins and barrel. Instead it's at about 45? that it catches and then feels like it manages to slip past what ever it is catching on. It certainly won't get past what ever it is without the handle held up. Holding the handle up wasn't required at the start, but it is now.


Cheers,

Phill.

[DiscoMick]

Get them to check the wiring where it goes through the convoluted rubber conduit at the b pillar. They pinch and eventually break the wires. Have repaired heaps of them.

Jc

Thanks for the hint, will check it out.

[AndyG]

My rear main seal went at 12,000 , Ford Quality giving LR a bad rep :o

[4wheeler]

4Wheeler,

I can't believe what I am hearing here.... Admitting to owning a Mazda.... The shame of it....
But..... I suppose.... You have seen the error of your ways. And, come back to the fold. :D Hallelujah Brother! :D You've seen the light. :D

Perhaps the weaping rear main is problematic with the puma series engine. And there I was thinking that, with my luck, I copped a dud. :p My leak was spotted at the 20K service. It's due now for it's 40K, so I get it all fixed up soon. I will ring around to check prices on the service though. It's marvelous how much it can vary, according to company and who you talk to.

Tomorrow I will spray some gun oil into the lock. I don't know how much good it will do. As it's not catching when you initially turn the key, as it would be for the pins and barrel. Instead it's at about 45? that it catches and then feels like it manages to slip past what ever it is catching on. It certainly won't get past what ever it is without the handle held up. Holding the handle up wasn't required at the start, but it is now.


Cheers,

Phill.

I don't know what I was thinking when I bought the Mazda. Quite powerful, very comfortable, quiet and reliable. I had nothing to fix on the weekends, nothing to tighten up, nothing to seal. That left me with too much time on my hands.
Now owning another Defender, that is no longer a problem. While the Defender is noisy and is a bit difficult to park at times, it is just so much fun which is what I missed. Once off the blacktop though the Defender shines and handles everything I do easily. On a trip to the Victorian high country which the Defender would do easily, my Mazda came off second best due to low clearance. I could have spent good dollars lifting the BT50 but then that might have introduced drive train vibrations. So back to a Defender it was.

The Ford engine is not too bad. I have a 2011 Ford Transit which has just clocked up 150,000km. No seal leaks. It did munch a clutch spigot bearing which mangled the input shaft to the gearbox running surface necessitating a very expensive repair but the Ford dealer had never seen the spigot bearing collapse like it did so I put it down to bad luck. The engine itself has been reliable touch wood.

Regarding the door lock, I could see mine jamming as the lock would only unlock about half way before jamming based on the child lock lever movement. I had to unlock mine from inside. I will get some dry spray lubricant as the wet lubricant I have used will probably attract more dust and jam it up again.

[AndyG]

Re door locks, the actual latch, I seem to recall candle wax being a goodsolution?

[Damo89]

I had an issue with this at one point, I found that I'd flicked what looks like a dead lock switch on the inside of the back door. Crawled through and unlocked that and it unlocked fine again.

[DazzaTD5]

Get them to check the wiring where it goes through the convoluted rubber conduit at the b pillar. They pinch and eventually break the wires. Have repaired heaps of them.

Jc

There you go, justinc is onto it..

Regards
Daz

[n plus one]

Get them to check the wiring where it goes through the convoluted rubber conduit at the b pillar. They pinch and eventually break the wires. Have repaired heaps of them.

Jc

Even more so if you happen to have door extensions...

[DiscoMick]

Even more so if you happen to have door extensions...
Which I have. It's on my list of holiday jobs, after I get the second battery connected to some plugs so we can take the fridge camping.

[DiscoMick]

Get them to check the wiring where it goes through the convoluted rubber conduit at the b pillar. They pinch and eventually break the wires. Have repaired heaps of them.

Jc

You were spot on with your diagnosis. Had George in the workshop today for another reason, so got them to check the wiring through the door conduit. Sure enough, both wires were broken. Now soldered up and wrapped in protective tape and the door is locking and unlocking normally. Thanks for the hint.

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