TD5 Fuel Pump

[septimus]

Mine has stopped pumping on the 99MY Defender. Now it could be the ECM stopping it , the wiring is crook or the pump has died. I opt for the latter as it made some strange noises prior to giving up the ghost (instead of a steady bzz noise it would go high pitched then normal pitch then stop then normal, etc). It would stop after about 10km and restart but the restarts took longer and now is it stopped altogether. That at least makes it a bit easier to do some tests and diagnosis.

So, are there any simple tricks to test it? If it is dead, the manual says you need a special tool to remove it. Is this so? Can you make one yourself? What experience has anyone had in removing, fixing, replacing?

I don't have any choice but to do it myself as the Defender is immobile and I live about 30km from Cairns towards the tablelands.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:green">some times the special tool required is as simple as a large ring designed to fit over the top of the pump to undo it......just like a socket with a half inch drive hole so you can use a normal breaker bar/ratchet.....

using the pic below as an example....you can see that if you dont have the required tool you can still get the job done.....its just like opening a large jar lid.......

http://www.bordignons.net/disco/misc/fueltank02.jpg



others had special tools for the fitting and removal of fuel lines....

untill you find the pump you wont really know if you need a tool or not....
if worse comes to worse...take the whole tank to where you go for the part and see if they can replace the pump for you....

the labour involved is in removing and refitting the tank...the pump is a simple 5 min job.....


this is all assuming that the pump is in the tank of course...and can only be removed by dropping the tank.......</span>

[septimus]

Thanks for that - it gives me more confidence to go ahead on the weekend and pull it out.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">see if you can get a rave cd express posted.....

OR......

have a look at the links below to see if they help you at all......
hope you can read german....</span>
http://www.landrover.ee/est/files/manuals/...handbuchTd5.pdf (http://www.landrover.ee/est/files/manuals/cars/defender/WerkstatthandbuchTd5.pdf)


http://www.landrover.ee/est/files/manuals/...0TD5-TDI-V8.pdf (http://www.landrover.ee/est/files/manuals/cars/defender/Land%20Rover%20Defender%20User%20Manual%2000MY%20T D5-TDI-V8.pdf)

[gruntfuttock]

The tool for removing the fuel pump looks like a big C with notches milled into it. It has a handle welded from one side to the other at the largest points so as you can grip it and turn it.

Part number is LRT 19-001

Old number LST 131

Hope this helps

Grunter

[septimus]

OK I found the fuel pump problem. It turned out to be the fuel pump relay had gone open circuit. However two things made it difficult to track down:

1. the O/C was intermittent. I must say I never thought about this as being likely with a relay - all I can guess is that given the circuit is designed so that the relay is operating while ever the ignition is turned on then one must expect it to fail and that heat generated within the coil would have been the cause of the intermittency.
2. the relay coil is paralleled inside the case by a 680 ohm resistor. So testing the coil with a multimeter for continuity was misleading. The coil was O/C but the electrical path was not.

What saved the day was the relay giving up totally so I now had something to chase. When I jumpered the switched contact connections on the relay socket the pump fired up. I again tested the relay and concluded it was OK. It was only when I took it to the test bench and applied 13.8V that I found it did not pull the contacts closed.

Now I have another problem. I have replaced it with one from Super Cheap but there is no resistor paralleling the coil on this. What I am wondering is why that was necessary? Or was it not necessary but just happened to be in the particular relay (it does show on the case where the relay circuit is embossed that there is some component parallel to the coil)?

I have searched the net to find specs on this relay (Siemens V23134-A52-X137) without luck. If anyone can tell me what part number is marked on their fuel pump relay it may help to track the resistor issue down.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:green">where was the relay located?



and what about the noise you said you heard from the pump?
if you didnt mention the noise i would have told you to supply 12volts direct to the pump to get you home....(the sort of repair NRMA/RACQ would have done)

unless a faulty pump caused the relay to go south....

plug it in and see how you go....sounds too easy...</span>

[septimus]

Relay is plugged in to a socket in the fuse and relay panel in the drivers compartment forward of the gear lever. It is the right hand relay coloured green.

I guess I mislead you on this as I had tested before (so I thought) and found the relay OK. Hence I was looking at other things and the pump noise, I now realise (assuming nothing else fails during testing over the next couple of days), was caused when the relay stopped, the pump stopped, the engine drained the remaining fuel in the system, the relay suddenly cut in again, there was no resistance to the pump so it made a different noise, higher pitched, as it filled the gap (so to speak) then went back to a normal noise. And so on.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">hmmm.....that makes sense....</span>