Air suspension damaged

[pprass]

Driving along a gravel road, ran over a small branch about a metre long the thickness of a forefinger and suddenly I heard a scraping sound underneath. Oh - it's just the stick embedded in a crack under the vehicle, happened all the time in the Nissan Patrol. Stop the MY15 D4, get out to look for the branch, see it on the passenger side underneath about where the two doors meet and gently pull it out. However what happened next was not expected. A rush of air was heard coming out from where I pulled the stick from :o
Get back in the car, start it up and an orange triangle light comes up on the consul with a warning that "Only Normal Height is Available". The light on the height selector has disappeared and I can't get rid of the triangle.
I get out again and have a closer look where I pulled the stick from and - yep a nice hole has been punched into some sort of air reservoir. Just great.
Does anyone know what the fix for this is? Is it a simple repair?

[Graeme]

First urgent job is to remove the 20A suspension system fuse from the engine bay fuse panel. This will stop it dropping all its air which it will do as soon as it discovers that it cannot correctly maintain normal height.

After removing that fuse, remove the 5A suspension system fuse from the passenger compartment fuse panel to stop the annoying 50 kph messages.

That's not the reservoir but the compressor assembly. The bottom cover can be removed to reveal the actual damage.

[pprass]

First urgent job is to remove the 20A suspension system fuse from the engine bay fuse panel....
I drove it home (about 50 kms) as it said it was staying at Normal Height. Is it too late to pull the fuse?

[Plane Fixer]

Looks like you have speared the suspension compressor. At the best an air line has been displaced.
As you are still obviously under warranty it would be best to get the dealer to repair. It will cost you as it will not be warranty. Bugger!!

[Tombie]

Pull it! Will stop the compressor overheating.

That's the compressor cover - not the air tank.

Take it off and have a look - post pics once removed.

[pprass]

Pull it! Will stop the compressor overheating.

That's the compressor cover - not the air tank.

Take it off and have a look - post pics once removed.

I'll do it in the morning - not looking forward to it though :(

[LandyAndy]

Cant see that a stick would puncture the compressor housing after travelling thru the cover,hopefully its just damaged a hose.
GOODLUCK
Thats why we buy these cars as soccer mum machines,they cant get off the sealed road;););););)
Andrew

[Graeme]

Is it too late to pull the fuse?Its only too late if its already dropped to the bump-stops.

[pprass]

Cant see that a stick would puncture the compressor housing after travelling thru the cover,hopefully its just damaged a hose....
What is ironic Andrew is that we recently travelled thousands of kms over some extremely rugged tracks throwing all sorts of rocks and stones under the vehicle and when we get back home and drive along a nicely graded gravel track - one lousy stick spears the housing. Why is that housing located there anyway? It looks so vulnerable now that I look at it and know what it is. Why isn't the front covered in 5mm armour plate :mad:

[Graeme]

Thats why we buy these cars as soccer mum machines,they cant get off the sealed roadThat's obviously the reason I bought a RRV with its compressor inside - to go offroad!

[Ian Abbott]

Green Oval Experience GOE, do a quality metal compressor protection cover. Regards, Botto

[pprass]

... RRV with its compressor inside...
Not in the cabin I presume, but under the bonnet?
Looking under the Discovery, no wonder there are so many aftermarket gizmos to protect this and that.

[LandyAndy]

That's obviously the reason I bought a RRV with its compressor inside - to go offroad!

Nah mate,some people just have too much money:p:p:p:p:p:p
It just happened to be inside:p:p:p:p:p:p
Andrew

[pprass]

Green Oval Experience GOE, do a quality metal compressor protection cover. Regards, Botto
That's interesting - they say it is "..the most essential mod you can make to your vehicle..."
If the compressor housing is that vulnerable, why is it there and unprotected in the first place?
It costs $220 which appears to be expensive for a shaped piece of metal.

[LandyAndy]

That's interesting - they say it is "..the most essential mod you can make to your vehicle..."
If the compressor housing is that vulnerable, why is it there and unprotected in the first place?
It costs $220 which appears to be expensive for a shaped piece of metal.

It will be interesting to see how much this stick ends up costing.
Im guessing if this had happened on your trip the $220 investment would have been chicken feed,especially if you were in a remote location.
The GOE cover is on my list,Ive done Gordons course,he makes it pretty plain how vunerable the compressor is.
Andrew

[Graeme]

Not in the cabin I presume, but under the bonnet?
Under the spare wheel which is also inside - not such a good place for that!

[pprass]

...Im guessing if this had happened on your trip the $220 investment would have been chicken feed,especially if you were in a remote location.
That's right Andrew, but that's $220 on top of a whole suite of other mods that "need" to be done. And not knowing what was going to happen and what was going to fail - what do you do? Pick one mod at random, or do the lot? I could have spent thousands of dollars getting the vehicle to a level where it was fairly invulnerable - fitted a bash plate and transmission plate, rock sliders, set of proper AT tyres for the 19" rims etc.
After already spending thousands of dollars on bullbar, long range fuel tank, rear wheel carrier, driving lights, I didn't have much left over to do any of the other work. So in the end I had to rely on the reliability and quality of the vehicle to get me through.
As it turned out the only real problem I had was that I shredded a tyre on the Great Central Rd and it cost me $537 to get a replacement in Alice Springs. That's probably not the fault of LR, but gosh - shouldn't they offer a better tyre option when buying a vehicle?

[justinc]

From the look of that hole I'd say at best the small pressure signal pipe has been torn out or damaged. At worse the actual end cover/ housing is toast.
I reckon you're just unlucky there I've seen many of these vehicles used in pretty average places and even seen a stick pushed uo half through the floor missing the fuel lines and trans wiring harness by mm's!!.

Hurry up and get that cover off...

Jc

[LandyAndy]

That's right Andrew, but that's $220 on top of a whole suite of other mods that "need" to be done. And not knowing what was going to happen and what was going to fail - what do you do? Pick one mod at random, or do the lot? I could have spent thousands of dollars getting the vehicle to a level where it was fairly invulnerable - fitted a bash plate and transmission plate, rock sliders, set of proper AT tyres for the 19" rims etc.
After already spending thousands of dollars on bullbar, long range fuel tank, rear wheel carrier, driving lights, I didn't have much left over to do any of the other work. So in the end I had to rely on the reliability and quality of the vehicle to get me through.
As it turned out the only real problem I had was that I shredded a tyre on the Great Central Rd and it cost me $537 to get a replacement in Alice Springs. That's probably not the fault of LR, but gosh - shouldn't they offer a better tyre option when buying a vehicle?

Dont get me wrong,Im with you on this,my original post mentioned we buy these to be soccer mums;);););)(or get one:wasntme::wasntme::wasntme:)
I rekon we have both done very similar mods for touring;);););) I spent everything I sold the D2 for in mods on mine.
Andrew

[AnD3rew]

I agree that the GOE compressor plate is an essential mod, but it wouldn't have saved you from this as it doesn't cover the front, in fact I have had a large stick wedged in the front between the compressor and the GOE plate. It might make it overheat, but I think it actually needs an angle front piece which would allow you to slide up and over rocks and prevent stick incidents.

Oh and so far sticks have caused all of the significant off-road damage I have incurred to my D3, the most significant ripped half the back bumper off the car on a very tame piece of track.

[TerryO]

Andrew is correct the GOA compressor plate has no front shield so that stick would still have caused what ever damage occurred.

[scarry]

You are just unlucky there.

Just like a guy i know who did two massive Cape trips in a GU.

Had two tyre failures on the trips,both on the main highway.

Reminds me of many years ago on Fraser island,we had a branch get caught around the rear axle and snap off the brake pipe,on the Series one.Eight years of trips and work on the island and it only happened once,and the loggers and forestry guys that used the same vehicles,and the Series two and two A never ever had it happen.

[Graeme]

we had a branch get caught around the rear axle and snap off the brake pipe,on the Series one.Same occurred on our RRC on our gravel road, resulting in my wife driving through our closed front gate that was down-hill from the road - "hang on kids we're not stopping at the gate this time!" The pedal went so close to the floor that my wife thought the brakes had failed totally but the 2nd circuit front brakes was still operating if the pedal was pressed hard enough.

[Nomad9]

Hi PPrass,
You can buy metal covers to replace the plastic ones. Still have a few holes in that sticks could find their way in. Better though.

[pprass]

OK - I pulled off the compressor cover and was surprised/relieved to see that there were just a few wires and a thin black tube behind it. No expensive looking bits of electronic boxes :p. Started looking around for signs of damage and after a while by lining up the front of the cover and projecting where the stick would have hit, I noticed that the thin black hard plastic tube that goes to the air reservoir (the long metal tube running along the side of the chassis in front of the compressor housing) had a nick in it (see picture).
I wrapped some silicone tape around the rupture, started the engine and all worked perfectly again. No warning lights, the light on the height adjuster on the console was on and all seemed good again. However the tape just couldn't hold the pressure and started to balloon and then popped. Stopped the engine and pulled the 20A fuse as recommended.
So it seems that it is just the pressure pipe :D Which I must say had to be a billion to one chance of being hit :mad:
I am hoping that it is a part that is readily available and I can get the LR back to normal in no time. I don't think I will even bother to take it to the dealer.
Thanks all for your input - much appreciated.

[Graeme]

Best outcome - minimal damage. You could try fitting a 6 mm joiner.

The control module is located on the driver's A pillar up under the dash, well away from water, mud and sticks.

[pprass]

...You could try fitting a 6 mm joiner.
Where would I get one of those Graeme - Bursons? Would it need clips on either end to hold the pipe in place?
Would it restrict the air flow through the pipe?

[Graeme]

Bursons may have them - make sure you get the 6 mm ones, not 1/4". Most common are plastic push-in ones that self-seal. They're used on truck gear range selector airlines - I have a few for both the car and the truck.

The self-sealing ones may not hold the pressure but screwed brass ones are also available.

Here's an example that says up to 150 PSI which should be enough.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20-X-Push-Fit-6mm-Pneumatic-Joiner-/201331671629?hash=item2ee04d824d:g:77AAAOSwo0JWM6u a

The don't restrict airflow as they seal on the outside.

[Nomad9]

Hi Gents,
I tack welded a piece of mesh to the front of mine, so far so good. I got a piece of gravel in the brake calliper on the GCR, did quite a bit of damage including breaking the pad sensor resulting in an annoying boinging sound all the way to Alice till I got the pliers out and cut the wire.

pprass, looks like you have been lucky with the air compressor. It is always difficult to pick what to do and in what order, me I do suspension and tyres first, I picked the "C" brand, shredded a tyre as soon as I hit the NT side of the GCR. That is as you say, unlucky. So was the stick I feel, lucky was you weren't in a remote place.

If you drive into a LR agency and come out spending less that $220 you have done well. Good luck with the repair.

[pprass]

... I tack welded a piece of mesh to the front of mine, so far so good...
Thanks - I might do the same.

[rufusking]

Here's an example that says up to 150 PSI which should be enough.


The system has a nominal working pressure of 16.8 bar (243 psi) and a maximum pressure of 23 bar (334 psi).

[pprass]

The system has a nominal working pressure of 16.8 bar (243 psi) and a maximum pressure of 23 bar (334 psi).
Oh - thanks for that. Maybe a new pipe is in order then :cool:

[Graeme]

The system has a nominal working pressure of 16.8 bar (243 psi) and a maximum pressure of 23 bar (334 psi).
That sounds like the original pressure, not the reduced pressure introduced with the s/w update to go with the AMK compressor. 150 PSI might still be a tad low though.

[rufusking]

The AMK systems operate with a maximum of 16.8 bar (243 psi)


The air harness comprises ten separate nylon pipes which are connected between the system components with Voss connectors. The pipes have the following diameters:

Pipe / Diameter
High pressure pipes / 6 mm
Compressor inlet pipe / 8 mm
Inlet filter to silencer / 8 mm
Compressor exhaust pipe / 10 mm
Silencer exhaust pipe / 19 mm

If a pipe becomes damaged, an in-line connector is available for repair purposes.

[PeterOZ]

Dont get me wrong,Im with you on this,my original post mentioned we buy these to be soccer mums;);););)(or get one:wasntme::wasntme::wasntme:)
I rekon we have both done very similar mods for touring;);););) I spent everything I sold the D2 for in mods on mine.
Andrew



Where do I get me one of these soccer mums hehehe :angel:

[LandyAndy]

Where do I get me one of these soccer mums hehehe :angel:

Didnt you just ditch one?????
You must be a glutton for punishment:p:p:p:p:p:p
Andrew

[Tombie]

Think about it...

You added a Bullbar - for that rare occurrence that a Roo does jump out.
Even the odds of that are pretty low. I've gone years and hit nothing, then cleaned up a heap in a few weeks..

For that stick to do what it did - the holes all need to line up in the cheese!

[pprass]

...If a pipe becomes damaged, an in-line connector is available for repair purposes.
That's what I ended up doing. Got a connector which btw was 1/4" diameter, cut the pipe, removed the damaged section and plugged the ends of the pipe in. The air suspension system works perfectly well now.

I was going to replace the whole line and bought a piece of 6mm pipe (which would not have gone into the end fittings), but when I saw what I had to do to take the damaged one off and how the pipe ends were attached to the fittings that went into the compressor reservoir and the compressor - there was no way I was going to be able to do it.
Went to the dealer who said that it would cost about $170 to get the air line from the UK and then 1.5 hrs fitting time. When I asked about a connector solution the service guy said that it was not recommended as it could damage the compressor and the warranty would be voided :mad:
So I went to Momentum 4x4 in Wauchope and he got me a connector after measuring the diameter of the air line and fitted it.

The connector is made from steel and is one of those "pull back a ring and push the line in" types.

[NavyDiver]

Where would I get one of those Graeme - Bursons? Would it need clips on either end to hold the pipe in place?
Would it restrict the air flow through the pipe?

Easy to find if your in the country. Tractor place in West Wyalong had lots and helped saved my bacon with a airline fault on the way to QLD last year. I keep a few in my car if you cannot find one PM me.

I agree the compressor is a little exposed but given most of us have had few problems ( ok i did try jacking on it once - whoops my bad)

Graemes offer does not seem such a bad price IMO. ( i do not have one myself)

Air lines, fuel lines, brakes, suspension can all get unlucky. Ditto for Gear box, Diffs and more in most 4Wds drive as 4WDs:angel:

[gghaggis]

If you need spare line or connectors, I sell both. The quick-fit connectors are nickel plated - corrosion resistant and rated to 1200 psi. The air line is rated to 400psi at 60degC. Most derate to under 200psi at that temperature.

Cheers

Gordon

[pprass]

If you need spare line...
Thanks Gordon - how much would the air line with the end connectors cost?
Peter

[gghaggis]

Have to check - from memory around $16 for a pair of connectors and $6/m for the line.

Cheers

Gordon