7 day challenge

[Chris J]

I have 7 days to put this back together including rust cutout repair to firewall, oil in bell housing (gearbox?) self install turbo kit,, HD clutch, new temp gauge How do you all rate my chances? I'm going 70%.

[mudmouse]

If you have 7 uninterrupted days, then it certainly is achievable - so long as you don't have to waste time chasing parts.... Is the oil in the bell housing from the gearbox or rear main? Once the clutch pressure plate is off it should be a simple diagnosis.

Looks fun, good luck!

[Blknight.aus]

so what are you going to do for the last 3 days?

[weeds]

What's happening on day 8

[Bearman]

While you have the engine out check the aircleaner brackets. They tend to crack at the 45 degree angle or the bolt holes where it attaches to the back of the engine. Weld it up or make a stronger one out of heavier angle iron.

[BadCo.]

While you have the engine out check the aircleaner brackets. They tend to crack at the 45 degree angle or the bolt holes where it attaches to the back of the engine. Weld it up or make a stronger one out of heavier angle iron.

Ha, mine has had this repair done by the Army. As well as the Hi-Low lever.

[Chris J]

While you have the engine out check the aircleaner brackets. They tend to crack at the 45 degree angle or the bolt holes where it attaches to the back of the engine. Weld it up or make a stronger one out of heavier angle iron.

Thanks for that Bearman, the bracket looks pretty heavy duty, must have been replaced/ upgraded in the Tenix works carried out.

[Chris J]

What's happening on day 8

Local exhaust guy only bends 2 1\2" that day, day 9 got a Robe to Beachport 5 day trip planned.

[Chris J]

Progress:
Firewall repaired, new gearbox fronts seals & oil pump cover lapped & reinstalled, HD clutch installed, engine back in. air cleaner housing mods finished, inlet pipe mod done exhaust manifold off & ready for new.

[Bearman]

Progress:
Firewall repaired, new gearbox fronts seals & oil pump cover lapped & reinstalled, HD clutch installed, engine back in. air cleaner housing mods finished, inlet pipe mod done exhaust manifold off & ready for new.

Good work there Chris!

[Chris J]

Engine started straight away - after cranking until oil got to turbo & reinstalling fuse, all I did was fill new fuel filter & pump hand primer a bit when I fitted engine. Was worried about diesel airlock for no reason. still have to fit guards & radiator, running short of deadline.

[Homestar]

You're doing great, hang in there - the end is in sight. :)

[Chris J]

Won't get back from exhaust shop until Friday:(

[BadCo.]

Won't get back from exhaust shop until Friday:(

Please take photos of the new exhaust, I am still tossing up between DIY or paying someone.

[Chris J]

BadCo pic attached, took this a few days ago.

Finally got it all together & did a highway & long ascent the difference is incredible, KLR kit is the way to go setup to work.

The new exhaust is so much quieter even though straight thru.

Will be taking back for mod as left hand down tyre rubs at full lock.

[BadCo.]

Oh yup so they ran the exhaust the same way.

Good stuff Chris, I can't wait until I finish my turbo haha

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Chris J]

Just took "Pete" on a 900km test run, loaded to the hilt I think around 3400kg first ascent out of Adelaide from old toll gate I went up at 95km not full throttle, last trip this ascent was 60km in 3rd flat to the floor.

Had to watch exhaust temp on the steeper ascents (36c outside) but just dropping the speed eg 95 not the 110 I could have done, engine temp reached about 88 then dropped to 80 as soon I crested, after that for the rest of that day engine temp never exceeded 70c (38c ambient) so need to look at this I think last few days never reached 70c.

Did some of the Beachport to Robe tracks, would never have got through without the KLR turbo, bits of very soft sand then sand hill ascents. Turbo boost was even never had any lag & there were moments when I got through something and went the turbo did that (I tried some of this before fitting turbo & really struggled).

Overtaking is much safer & the noise at highway speed is much less, although to the uninitiated would be too loud, actually the noise level internally is quieter in all driving conditions.

Did the 100 & 110km highway stuff at those limits, fuel economy not so impressive first day 200km into a head wind and very loaded I think I got about 15.1L/100km, I pushed it at full payload this afternoon for 220 km & got 14.5 L/100km a mix of flat/ undulating & freeway hills with mainly a crosswind tending to tailwind, pretty sure these figures are within 2% of previous consumption).

Yesterday did sand tracks, sand hills & beaches fully loaded, had to let tyres down to 15 psi but never lacked power once, overall 7 day that turned to 9 project was worth the time & money, biggest bonus is not having to go flat out at everything can go easier knowing power in reserve.

[BadCo.]

Good write up Chris!

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Chris J]

Extremely bad news just drained 1.5L of gear oil from bell housing, it appears something went wrong with the new seals & gaskets I installed to the front of the gearbox.:(

[dingsy]

Extremely bad news just drained 1.5L of gear oil from bell housing, it appears something went wrong with the new seals & gaskets I installed to the front of the gearbox.:(

I have had the same problem twice now I think the seal is splitting.

[Chris J]

I have had the same problem twice now I think the seal is splitting.

Have you worked out a cause?

[Chris078]

Had to watch exhaust temp on the steeper ascents (36c outside) but just dropping the speed eg 95 not the 110 I could have done, engine temp reached about 88 then dropped to 80 as soon I crested, after that for the rest of that day engine temp never exceeded 70c (38c ambient) so need to look at this I think last few days never reached 70c.

That to me suggests that something is wrong and the temp sensor is not working correctly at the very least.

There is no way that after driving on the highway the engine temp will remain below 80c on a 38c day.

The design operating temp on the 4BD1 is 85-90c and the thermostat is designed to open at 82c.
Good thing is that it's a wax thermostat so even if the temp gauge/sensor is wrong it will still open, but you probably should get that checked.

[Chris J]

Had to watch exhaust temp on the steeper ascents (36c outside) but just dropping the speed eg 95 not the 110 I could have done, engine temp reached about 88 then dropped to 80 as soon I crested, after that for the rest of that day engine temp never exceeded 70c (38c ambient) so need to look at this I think last few days never reached 70c.

That to me suggests that something is wrong and the temp sensor is not working correctly at the very least.

There is no way that after driving on the highway the engine temp will remain below 80c on a 38c day.

The design operating temp on the 4BD1 is 85-90c and the thermostat is designed to open at 82c.
Good thing is that it's a wax thermostat so even if the temp gauge/sensor is wrong it will still open, but you probably should get that checked.


Both the themostat & the temp gauge (VDO mechanical) were brand new, will check temp gauge in near boiling water tonight.


The right hand side of the radiator was reasonably cool to touch when ever I stopped.

[Chris078]

Both the themostat & the temp gauge (VDO mechanical) were brand new, will check temp gauge in near boiling water tonight.


The right hand side of the radiator was reasonably cool to touch when ever I stopped.

If you haven't overheated by now, the thermostat is good.
I didn't realize the temp gauge was a mechanical one and doesn't have a sender unit. makes testing a little easier I guess.

My understanding of the cross-flow radiator type as fitted to the Perentie is that it should heat up from bottom to top and right to left (when you are looking at the front) . As per your thermostat, I'd say your radiator is also good, and focus on that temp gauge.

82c is where the thermostat opens, and a normal operating temperature is 85-90c.

[Chris J]

After reading your post Chris I realised we had a calibration thermometer in the lab draw at work, filled a cup from the kettle & both stabilised & dropped within 1/2 a degree of each other.

The only other thing with the cooling system is I just looped the heater pipes rather than reconnected the heater core & fitted a new fan belt.

Will check part No. on thermostat when I sort out gearbox seal & reconnect heater when I put engine back in, also might chuck fan in car & try & find a clutch fan at a wreckers (thinking nissan).

ps: took forever getting engine to temp prior to all the works.

[dingsy]

Have you worked out a cause? KLR will take another look for me but I think the input shaft (?) has been replaced by the army with a newer unit with square edges that is suspected to have split the seal. Someone who actually knows these gearboxes may be able to translate this for you lol.

[BadCo.]

Is anybody else not surprised by Chris Js temps?

From what I understand, factory gauges don't show the true fluctuations on engine temperature, and he has a new aftermarket mechanical gauge. And I can certainly understand temps as low as 70c, as my engine struggles to warm up in winter (I have since replaced the thermostat but am yet to test it).

What are other peoples thoughts?

[Bearman]

Extremely bad news just drained 1.5L of gear oil from bell housing, it appears something went wrong with the new seals & gaskets I installed to the front of the gearbox.:(

Most probable cause is the oil pump cover plate. Did you check it for straightness. They usually need to be linished and then finished off on glass to guarantee a straight edge. The new type are a lot thicker and less prone to warping. Also you have to apply ample sealant to all the front cover plate bolts especially the input bearing retainer bolts to stop oil migration through the threads.

[Chris J]

Most probable cause is the oil pump cover plate. Did you check it for straightness. They usually need to be linished and then finished off on glass to guarantee a straight edge. The new type are a lot thicker and less prone to warping. Also you have to apply ample sealant to all the front cover plate bolts especially the input bearing retainer bolts to stop oil migration through the threads.

Spent a fair bit of time on the glass as was warped, I think you maybe on to something with the bolts, but I think like Dingsy my gearbox input shaft has a square edge, I must have damaged a seal to get that much oil in the bell housing.

The reason I changed the seal was some oil in bellhousing & my log book shows changed rear main seal & changed clutch at 10,123, my thoughts are gearbox seal from Tenix rebuild leaked slightly, then I damaged due to square edge - find out soon

[Chris078]

Is anybody else not surprised by Chris Js temps?

From what I understand, factory gauges don't show the true fluctuations on engine temperature, and he has a new aftermarket mechanical gauge. And I can certainly understand temps as low as 70c, as my engine struggles to warm up in winter (I have since replaced the thermostat but am yet to test it).

What are other peoples thoughts?

In winter, yes I could understand it as the bypass hose would allow enough coolant flow to keep it around 75-80 if it was quite cool.

But on a hot 35c day on a turbod motor, I see no way that the coolant could stay at 70c. I'd like to know where the temperature sensor has been located. It could be it's in the wrong part of the loop and is on the "cool" side, instead of the "hot side".
As far as I know, coolant temp should be measured as it comes out of the engine loop (when it's at it hottest).
consistently measuring 70 seems to me it's measuring somewhere after it has been through the radiator but before entering the engine.

[Chris078]

After reading your post Chris I realised we had a calibration thermometer in the lab draw at work, filled a cup from the kettle & both stabilised & dropped within 1/2 a degree of each other.

The only other thing with the cooling system is I just looped the heater pipes rather than reconnected the heater core & fitted a new fan belt.

Will check part No. on thermostat when I sort out gearbox seal & reconnect heater when I put engine back in, also might chuck fan in car & try & find a clutch fan at a wreckers (thinking nissan).

ps: took forever getting engine to temp prior to all the works.


I actually made a thread about that a while ago. mine takes 20 mins of driving in QLD heat before it will finally get to temp.

[Phil B]

Why not try taking for a run and then checking the actual temp with a laser temp reader (cheap from Dick Smith)?

[spudboy]

Chris - If you are anywhere near the Adelaide Hills and want to call past, I have a digital infra-red temperature gauge if you want to get an accurate reading. We are just out of Balhannah.

[Aussie Jeepster]

Chris - If you are anywhere near the Adelaide Hills and want to call past, I have a digital infra-red temperature gauge if you want to get an accurate reading. We are just out of Balhannah.
Or, if you are near the city, I can take mine (infrared thermo) into Hutt Street if you want. Alan

[Chris J]

Extremely bad news just drained 1.5L of gear oil from bell housing, it appears something went wrong with the new seals & gaskets I installed to the front of the gearbox.:(

Pulled engine out again & gearbox front cover off, seal badly damaged probably during install. Input shaft has a sharp square edge not rounded or chamfered , will try & relieve this to allow a smoother install.

Clutch contaminated with oil so picked up new plate, won't be reinstalling that wading plug until I see deep water.

[Chris J]

I definitely damaged oil seal on install, relieved input shaft angle slightly & installed carefully; whole thing felt different, in hindsight I should have known I pinched oil seal when I put the cover back on.

Learnt a lesson & got more practice in removing engine on my own, lesson learnt = take care every step of gearbox front cover refurbishment.

[Chris J]

Might have got practice getting engine out, having a bugger of a job getting it back in this time.

[Bearman]

Make sure you don't force it together Chris. You have to persevere and get things lined up exactly and it will slip together. Don't be tempted to pull it together with the bolts - a sure way to bend the input bearing tabs. Oh and don't forget to manipulate the slave cylinder pushrod through the hole while you're doing all this:D

[Chris J]

Thanks for the advice Bearman, eventually it did just pop together took some buggering around between trolley jack under gearbox & angle of engine, the 10mm bolts cut down were a god send. Gave up for a smoke at one point slightly adjusted a few things & it fell together, I think the key is the angle.:)

[rathgar]

...Gave up for a smoke at one point slightly adjusted a few things & it fell together....)

Sometimes walking away and coming back later is the key.

Good luck this time.

[Chris J]

All back together & working well, loving that turbo again just took Pete for a blast up into the hills