Cable wiring for rear Anderson

[Ashes]

I need to run some wiring from the 2nd battery to a rear Anderson to charge the camper trailer battery (130ah). In future I may need to charge up a larger set of batteries in a caravan (up to 400ah) or at least keep 12v up to a compressor fridge.

Can I have some advice on
- what gauge cable to run. 2,4 or is 6B&S sufficient?
- can I get away with just running a +ve to the rear and the earth to a body stud near the rear (is there one handy near to tow plugs)?
- what size auto CB should I put on the cable near the car aux battery?
- I'm hoping to run the cable on top of the chassis rail, should I still put split tube on it?
- is this a job better tackled by an auto elec as I'm sure they will terminate cables better than I can?

Thanks

[Bytemrk]

Ashes,

Chat to Drivesafe on this forum, he will give you first class advice. He owns Traxide (http://www.traxide.com.au/) and really knows his stuff.

I can't remember off the top of my head the cable sized used in my Traxide kit... I have a feeling it may have been 6 B&S.

Cheers,

[Bytemrk]

Looks Like I'm right,

This is the kit I fitted to my D4 - It's actually surprisingly simple to install as DIY.

D3-DU = USI-160 + ABG-25 + FPC | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV (http://www.traxide.com.au/complete-diy-dual-battery/land-rover-dbs-kits/discovery-3-dbs-kits/d3-du--usi-160--abg-25--fpc.html)

I used a D3 kit rather than a D4 kit as I wanted the space in front of my main battery to mount a compressor.

[LandyAndy]

The Traxide kits are top quality,have used them in 4 vehicles now.
The kit is all cut to fit,easy step by step fitting instructions,even was easy in my D4,wich I did myself when it was brand new,a bit daunting,everything went like clockwork:cool::cool::cool::cool:
A good reason NOT to run the cables along the chassis,some repairs require a body off,the Traxide gear comes thru the cab so if the body has to be lifted in the future the kit wont interfere.
You should run twin cabling,also NEVER connect ANYTHING to the neg terminal at the main battery,it will effect the battery management ECU.
Andrew

[Ashes]

Thanks. I already have a usi160 installed and definitely know about not using the neg terminal on the main battery. Looks like a 50A CB is the go and 6B@S. Tim has already been helpful on other things so I don't need to hassle him directly.
I think I'll run the risk of the body off and the cable run on the chassis as I've already got existing cables through the firewall and I won't be able to fit a 6b&s twin cable.

Any thoughts on not running a full length -Ve cable and just earthing near the tow bar?

[Catmatt]

Thanks. I already have a usi160 installed and definitely know about not using the neg terminal on the main battery. Looks like a 50A CB is the go and 6B@S. Tim has already been helpful on other things so I don't need to hassle him directly.
I think I'll run the risk of the body off and the cable run on the chassis as I've already got existing cables through the firewall and I won't be able to fit a 6b&s twin cable.

Any thoughts on not running a full length -Ve cable and just earthing near the tow bar?

Ran my set-up off the aux battery in the engine bay, via a 60A thermo CB down through forward chassis and along the top of the rails. There is a fair amount of room to secure your wiring and like you - I reckon the risk of a body off situation was very low plus if the body was coming off - something catastrophic would have occurred and I wouldn't think twice of cutting the cabling and re-wiring once the body was back on.

There is a good earth point in use on the LHS of the engine bay that has enough room to install your earth to. To keep it neat, I allowed a bit extra length and hid the Anderson plug on the LHS of the tow hitch so when not in use, the plastic cover covers everything up.

[ozscott]

I used fine strand old telecomms earth cables on my D2 for a rear anderson plug run - plug charges second battery on van through a DC to DC Redarc and also my boat trailer winch runs off it. The cables are at least as big as my ring finger and most of that is copper cross section. Zero voltage loss on a voltmeter... Dont skimp on that run.

Cheers

[Graeme]

Any thoughts on not running a full length -Ve cable and just earthing near the tow bar?These vehicles have good earth studs so IMO there's no reason to incur more voltage drop by running the earth back to an earth stud at the front. Perhaps the same can't be said for some other older vehicles in which case for reliability fit an earth wire back to the battery in those vehicles.

[sniegy]

If you are going to run down the chassis, then run down the passenger side.
The drivers side is a s**t of a thing. Cuts, bruises & lots of swearing involved;)
Have run hundreds of cables down this side (& tried drivers) & it is the easiest.
Cheers

[Ashes]

Thanks Pete. Will do. Just assumed it would be down the drivers side and didn't even consider the passenger side. Just a extra couple of metres of cable I guess.

[matt_ali_walsh]

I'd still go internal with the wire. There are two points of access, one is the grommet beside the aux battery tray and the other just above the accelerator pedal. The drive safe instructions will point you in the right direction. WAY easier than climbing under the car, safer for the wiring and faster as well :)
Cheers
Matt

[drivesafe]

As Matt posted, running cable along the chassis is too much like hard work and I'm too fat and too lazy to be climbing under vehicles.

Ash, there is easy access through the firewall on the driver's side, near the Master Break Cylinder.

You only need to run a POSITIVE ( + ) cable from the auxiliary battery, in through the firewall and up over the steering column, then down behind the driver's kick panel.

There are a number of M6 studs in the body that are perfect earth points ( thanks Sniegy )

From there to the rear, run twin cabling under the door sills and in behind the side panel in the cargo area.

Come out through the body behind the rear taillight assembly, then down in behind the rear bumper.

Job done.

[Meken]

I agree with TIM - inside is easy - did it in a few hours & Tim's instructions are brilliant

[Ashes]

Where bouts are those internal M6 bolts that I can use? I can manage a single 6B&S through that hole.

[l00kin4]

Where bouts are those internal M6 bolts that I can use? I can manage a single 6B&S through that hole.


This pic from Tim's excellent instructions (I hope that's ok Tim)


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101808&stc=1&d=1447215506


There are plenty more but using this one is easy as it's on the cable path you're already using anyway...


David