rear wheel bearings 110?

[mudder110]

howdy all last of the maintenance going well so far new injectors ordered,
checked the rear wheel bearings two things both rear wheels have a slight clunk when moved side to side, checked the diff oil as I do have a pinion seal leak next on the agenda, but not losing much oil I do keep a eye on it
but when I checked the dip stick I have the arb diff cover, found metal on the magnet three pieces biggest size of a match head but flattened a couple of pieces bit less then half that I changed all the oils 700ks ago bearings oil feed nearly 100,000ks old whats the best way to check them thanks for all the help cheers.

[mudder110]

would I be able to just remove the whole maxidrive flange axle and all then undo and remove outer bearing then hub?cheers

[jboot51]

The pinion leak may due to a blocked breather + the extra oil to feed the wheel bearings.


The metal fragments are a concern.


To check the bearings, you will need to lift the brake calliper clear of the rotor.
Remove the big center nut on the flange.
Remove the circlip on the end of the axle.
Undo the 5 bolts on the flange and remove.
UnBend the lock washer .
Undo the the locking nut on the stub axle.
Remove locking washer.
Remove inner nut.
Remover hub and rotor.


Check the hard coating on the bearings for wear.
If in doubt, replace them.
You will need a new hub seal RTC3511G and Locking Tab (Tab optional).


Locking tab can be hammered flat for reuse, but I replacing is preferred.


Torque settings
Brake calliper 100 nM
Lock nut 65 NM
Flange bolts 65 nM, go easy on these as they do snap.

[simmo]

Hi Mudder, about 100,k the bearings will have some slop on them, that's the clunk when you rock the wheel. I find that from time to time, its not a cause for concern, I probably adjust one of my bearings every year. I don't remove anything only the drive flange, not even the wheel.(depends on your wheel type though)
I remove the drive flanges and nip up the bearings to take up the slop. you should not be able to notice any play in the bearings at all when your done.

Adjusting the bearings has been well covered elsewhere.

when you remove the drive flange you'll loose the oil from the hub, so after adjusting rear hubs ( Maxi drive flanges ),I drive my car across the road to the drain and park it with one side in the drain for 5 minutes. that will tilt the axle & fill the hub from the diff, then turn around and do the other side, return to the workshop and top up the diff. My front hubs are standard Land Rover flanges, drilled and tapped 1/8" NPT, I use a large syringe and top up after with 60 mls of diff oil. I would like to drill and tap the rear maxidrive flanges but I'm worried about breaking the tap. my front flanges were hard enough, fyi they have done 200,000 kms and look like new ones on the splines. you can see the 1/8" NPT plug in the picture below.
for a few trips after adjustment I check the hub temperatures when I stop, if they're not too hot to hold my hand on I say they're ok. (its a habit I do it on the first stop of any long trip) cheers simmo

[mudder110]

Hi Mudder, about 100,k the bearings will have some slop on them, that's the clunk when you rock the wheel. I find that from time to time, its not a cause for concern, I probably adjust one of my bearings every year. I don't remove anything only the drive flange, not even the wheel.(depends on your wheel type though)
I remove the drive flanges and nip up the bearings to take up the slop. you should not be able to notice any play in the bearings at all when your done.

Adjusting the bearings has been well covered elsewhere.

when you remove the drive flange you'll loose the oil from the hub, so after adjusting rear hubs ( Maxi drive flanges ),I drive my car across the road to the drain and park it with one side in the drain for 5 minutes. that will tilt the axle & fill the hub from the diff, then turn around and do the other side, return to the workshop and top up the diff. My front hubs are standard Land Rover flanges, drilled and tapped 1/8" NPT, I use a large syringe and top up after with 60 mls of diff oil. I would like to drill and tap the rear maxidrive flanges but I'm worried about breaking the tap. my front flanges were hard enough, fyi they have done 200,000 kms and look like new ones on the splines. you can see the 1/8" NPT plug in the picture below.
for a few trips after adjustment I check the hub temperatures when I stop, if they're not too hot to hold my hand on I say they're ok. (its a habit I do it on the first stop of any long trip) cheers simmo

thanks simmo will ajust the bearings, when I check em i would summise that if the outer bearing looks ok the inner should be fine as the outer is furthest from oil still concerned about the metal I found on the magnet in the diff maybe a bit of shim?