Trailer Couplings.

[D4DasMar]

Hi all,

First of all I would like to thank all involved in this forum for their pearls of wisdom and willingness to share them with the rest of us uninitiated in the wonderful world of Land Rover ownership.:D

I and my wife are about to take ownership of our first Discovery and are looking to tow an off road camper trailer (also new) and were hoping that we might be able to get some advice as to what might be best as a coupling between the two.

The trailer comes with a Treg Poly block coupling. Is this the best option or are there more reliable/robust systems for this application.

I apologise if this has been covered in other posts :confused: and look forward to hearing from you.

[cjc_td5]

Hi mate and welcome to D4 ownership.

We have used a treg hitch on our camper trailer for many years. There is no issue with strength but they can be difficult to get aligned and hitched if the trailer is heavy and/or on sandy ground. A reversing camera and height adjustable suspension covers this short coming a fair bit though. There are other offroad hitches around that are easier to align but I'll leave it to others to compare these.

Cheers
Chris

[Fluids]

I use a Tregg on the Kimberley Kamper. Tug is a Disco 2. No issues. I find it easy to align and hitch ... but, I always put a small sheet of form ply down under the jockey wheel (2ft x 1ft). I place it at 90deg to the Kamper, and face the jockey wheel the same way. To hitch, just back up with the tug hitch beside the Kamper hitch, and pull the Kamper poly block into the tug hitch sideways. So easy, the wife can accomplish the pull and insert pin while I'm still in the drivers seat !

The Disco has SLS so getting the heights right is easy. Raise D2 rear, wind Kamper up to match height, pull sideways and insert the hitch pin.

There may be / are better hitches on the market, but the Kimberley came with the Tregg, and since we have no issues with it, it's stayed ... I still hear a lot of people complain how hard they are to hitch up ... ???

[Homestar]

That's a great solution to hitching a Tregg Kev, I wonder why no one else thought of that. :)

D4DasMar - welcome to the forum, and on your purchase. :). I've never seen nor heard of a Tregg poly block coupling having any issues while being used - the biggest complaint is the hitching of them, which Fluids has an easy solution for, so I would use it as you get it and see how you find it. They are strong, and quiet - there should be no need to go running out to buy something else.

[stuee]

Just be wary that you have a genuine Tregg/Trig hitch. I've been reading a few threads now on myswag where the Chinese import campers are coming with fake tregg hitches in some cases (or rather copies). I've seen a report of one failure (of the copy) so it may be a bit of a beat up but keep in the back of you mind if its not the aussie made version.

Trigg -vs- Tregg -vs- Treg (http://www.myswag.org/index.php'topic=29240.0)
(Heading changed)Cheap Chinese Poly Hitch Failure (PICS NOW UP) (http://www.myswag.org/index.php'topic=28350.0)

It seems like a default option to swap out the hitch and bearings (or at least put more grease in them) on the import campers once owners have taken delivery.

I'm interested to hear others opinions on what couplings they use too as I'm looking at trailers now myself.

[Homestar]

Geez, hadn't seen that Stu, thanks for posting. Based on that, it sure would pay to check the hitch is genuine.

If we're going to talk about others, I'm looking at replacing the standard towball for my caravan with a Mchitch. They do a couple of different types - a drop on and automatic style ranging from 2 tonne to 6.5 tonne - McHitch Trailer Couplings (http://www.mchitch.com.au). My van has a standard old school hydraulic override brakes and they do a direct replacement for that too - McHitch Trailer Couplings (http://www.mchitch.com.au/#!product/prd1/3756460431/2-tonne-brake-over-ride-drop-on-mchitch)

Check out the videos to see how they work. Both styles have double security and the drop on style is physically screwed to the post as well as pinned so they can never come apart.

[RobA]

It's an interesting question given the wide choice of off-road hitches now available. No issues with a real Tregg we have used them on all our OR campers but I have fitted an Oz Hitch, https://www.ozhitch.com to do some comparisons against the Tregg. With a reversing camera it is pretty easy no matter which hitch you select. We have 3x Ultimate campers which are strong and light but if you are heading above type of weight and down-ball weight something different may be more suitable

After a year of testing with our D4 we are about to swap the hitch for a DO35 for the simple reason that we feel the Oz Hitch design moves the camper connection around 130mm from the hole in the tongue. Whilst nothing untoward has occurred I feel that with all the off bitumen and off road towing we do there is a bit too much leverage too far back which may and I repeat may be making the self levelling work a little harder then necessary.

Overall happy with the Oz Hitch and we have had varying experiences with the DO35 in dusty conditions but hopefully the newer design has resolved that matter

Rob

[D4DasMar]

Thank you all for you replies and suggestions. Fluids, that sounds like a great technique that I'll take on board so that I can give the unit a fair crack.:D

Stuee, thanks for the warning, as it turns out the camper is from china so chances are the block is a cheap knock off which I will investigate. The rest of the camper looks OK and comes with a 5 year warranty so hopefully any problems surface in that time.

Cheers to all,

Daz.

[BobD]

Both the McHitch and the OzHitch move the centre of the towbar reaction significantly further away from the car than a standard ball, DO35 or Tregg hitch. I had a McHitch on my previous camper trailer and the tongue bent about 20 degrees on the Reynolds River track into Litchfield National Park near Darwin. I had to put a really heavy duty Hayman Reese adjustable hitch onto the D4 in Darwin to continue our trip.


I have a Tregg Hitch on my new Kimberley Karavan and don't find it any problem. With a single axle trailer it is easy to move the trailer sideways to get the holes to line up. Not so good on a tandem axle though. If I did replace it with anything, I would go for a DO35 to keep the trailer reaction at the correct point on the towbar.

[Homestar]

The automatic version of the McHitch does, but the drop on version maintains the original distances as the pin replaces the towball.

[BobD]

The automatic version of the McHitch does, but the drop on version maintains the original distances as the pin replaces the towball.



Not quite true. The centre of force is on the horizontal pin of the uni joint, well behind the normal hitch location, not the centre of the pin that bolts the whole lot to the towbar. The adaptor version for a Tregg hitch is a bit better but even it puts the centre of force further back than a conventional hitch or Tregg hitch.

[Homestar]

Ah, I see what you mean. :)

[Canaussie]

We use a DO 35, I haven't used any other of the above mentioned other than a plain ball hitch. We also tow an off-road camper. Done the cape a couple years back, could not fault it, easy to line up. The only thing missing is missing is a lockable function.

[LRD414]

I had a Vehicle Components DO35 fitted to our camper trailer from new as an upgrade from the tregg-copy, which was the standard hitch with the camper. I've found the DO35 to be very easy to hitch/unhitch, with a simple drop-on or lift-off movement that is even easier if you make use of the air suspension.

The other feature I like is the low vertical profile that easily clears the tailgate when it's down but doesn't compromise ground clearance.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/d3-d4-rrs/96713d1437379306-towbar-heights-again-imageuploadedbytapatalk1437379305.692747.jpg http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/d3-d4-rrs/96724d1437385221-towbar-heights-again-imageuploadedbytapatalk1437385219.583550.jpg

Cheers,
Scott

[Dudela]

I use a Hitch Ezy with a van that is around 3000kg and have no issues with connect and disconnect even when the ground is not quite level. The previous owner changed to this from an Alko off road coupling which he said always difficult to get off.

hitch-ezy - Home (http://www.hitch-ezy.com/)

[mick88]

I made up my own towbar coupling for the series 3.
It bolts straight onto the original tow plate and accepts the standard style nylon block hitch on our off road trailer.
The two jaws protrude right through the backing plate and are welded back and front.

Cheers, Mick.

[LandyAndy]

Aint going to work on a modern Landy;););););););)
Andrew

[rangieman]

I run a Do35 great + easy to hitch and no probs in 4 years of some serious offroad;)

[Homestar]

The DO35 seems to be a popular choice. Do they make a version that replaces an over ride setup like some others do? The website doesn't have much detail at all about it.

Cheers.

[Saitch]

The Treg copies on quite a few imports is FACT.
We have a DO35 on our c/t & have not had any issue over the years.
Try this forum MySwag.org The Off-road Camper Trailer Forum - Index (http://www.myswag.org/) as it's the C/trailer equivalent of AULRO. You know, full of good advice, dodgy advice, good people, weird people & some great camping get togethers.
Good luck with your venture.
Steve

[Saitch]

The DO35 seems to be a popular choice. Do they make a version that replaces an over ride setup like some others do? The website doesn't have much detail at all about it.

Cheers.Pardon Me for entering the hallowed ether of D3/4/RRS but...
I added cabin controlled elec. braking to our camper as, even though not a legal requirement, I can lessen the effect of the trailer trying to push the rear of the D1 around on extreme descents. It is also less strain on the D1 brakes all round & for the money, I'm more than happy with it & feel a lot more secure with the rig overall.
Steve

[mowog]

I have done lots of KLM's with a McHitch Uniglide Trailer Coupling

The attached image shows how its hooked up to the D4. I am very happy with this setup.

[NTB]

Hello D4DasMar,

I had a Tregg Hitch on my previous Campervan and it worked well with the Discovery.
I did have one complaint with the Tregg Hitch and the Discovery but did not worry me enough to change hitches.
The issue is when you unhitch. When you lower down the jockey wheel to take the weight of the camper it also takes the weight off the rear of the Disco. This then makes the Disco rise in height. When it rises enough (which is not very much) the suspension will automatically lower. Because the Tregg Hitch is a block this will transfer weight from the Disco to the Jockey Wheel and you will have a unknown amount of weight on the Jockey Wheel. The only way to stop the lowering of the suspension height is to remove fuses.

Once I became aware of this I would do the following:
I would lower down the Jockey Wheel and start to take the weight of the campervan slowly.
Once I hear and/or see the height changing I would quickly raise the Jockey Wheel to roughly the change in height.
This would then stop the weight of the Disco being transferred to the Jockey Wheel.

I now have a DO35 on the caravan and when the Disco automatically lowers the DO35 Pin just drops out of the DO35 Hitch.

[Dudela]

NTB I leave a door open when hitching and unhitching and it stops any undue suspension changes on my set up. I use the same technique for the boat and caravan after being caught on the first disconnect .

[NTB]

Hello Dudela,

I tried every combination of open and closed side and rear doors, engine running and stopped. No matter what I did I could not stop the suspension from moving to adjust its current height automatically.

I wonder if they have changed this in the later models.
I see you have a 2015 compared to my 2011.
That would be a good change.

[The Fridster]

I'm with you. I have used a Hitch Ezy for the last 5 years on two different caravan and wouldn't use anything else. It's a very clever bit of gear designed by a very smart guy. Non believers should take a serious look.

[Meken]

Pardon Me for entering the hallowed ether of D3/4/RRS but...
I added cabin controlled elec. braking to our camper as, even though not a legal requirement, I can lessen the effect of the trailer trying to push the rear of the D1 around on extreme descents. It is also less strain on the D1 brakes all round & for the money, I'm more than happy with it & feel a lot more secure with the rig overall.
Steve


So are you saying your camper fully loaded weighs less than 750kg? Or am I reading something wrong?

[Homestar]

The hitch ezy looks like it needs to be wound up a long way on the jockey wheel. Has anyone had issues with this? There have been a couple of times I've ended up unhitching the van on uneven ground where I've just about run out length on my jockey wheel on a standard 50mm ball. This looks like it needs a lot more height than the DO35, but I could be wrong.

[Shortyesquire]

Using a D035 on our tvan and no problems so far, despite some dusty dirt roads. Only problem is the fragile dust cup. If you do get a D035 might be worth using lanotec or silicon spray to weatherproof. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/154.jpg

[Stuart02]

Pardon Me for entering the hallowed ether of D3/4/RRS but...
Steve

Thanks for stopping by! :)

[gavinwibrow]

Our anticipated 3.5T off-road caravan has a Hyland coupling specified. Looks ok, but any feedback? Says Australian made and owned. Home (http://www.hylandtrailercouplings.com.au/)

[mick88]

Our anticipated 3.5T off-road caravan has a Hyland coupling specified. Looks ok, but any feedback? Says Australian made and owned. Home (http://www.hylandtrailercouplings.com.au/)



Looks to be a good functional coupling!
And you don't have to remove the standard tow ball!
A win, win!


Cheers, Mick.

[RoverLander]

Hello Dudela,

I tried every combination of open and closed side and rear doors, engine running and stopped. No matter what I did I could not stop the suspension from moving to adjust its current height automatically.

I wonder if they have changed this in the later models.
I see you have a 2015 compared to my 2011.
That would be a good change.

I have a DO35 hitch on my largish van. The Disco automatically adjusting the suspension height actually helps with the hitching and unhitching process. The only thing to be carefull of is any tension on the coupling when unhitching as things can move around suddenly as it detaches. I often put a block of wood between the car and the hitch just in case.
Open doors, tailgate or anything else doesnt seem to stop the MY15 D4 from slightly adjusting suspension height while hitching or unhitching the van.

[RoverLander]

I just noticed the picture is off the previous disco a MY10. The current MY15 also raises and lowers as i hitch and unhitch.

[jonesy63]

I just noticed the picture is off the previous disco a MY10. The current MY15 also raises and lowers as i hitch and unhitch.

Have you tried leaving a door open while you hitch/unhitch? Eg. Turn D3/D4/RRS off, leave driver's door open, unhitch, start car and drive half a metre forward... close door and then the car will adjust height.

FWIW, my camper came with a 2T AL-KO off road hitch.
AL-KO Off Road Couplings (http://www.alko.com.au/vehicle-technology-catalogue/couplings/off-road-couplings/)
It is similar to the Hyland hitch, but has a plastic locking sleeve which is used to lock the centre while hitching/unhitching. I like the design as I don't have to change the ball - so I can tow our boat or box trailer without changing anything.

[Shortyesquire]

Our anticipated 3.5T off-road caravan has a Hyland coupling specified. Looks ok, but any feedback? Says Australian made and owned. Home (http://www.hylandtrailercouplings.com.au/)
Curiosity is killing me. Is is a Kimberly Kamper?

We're stuck in Esperance due to fires along with every other rv heading east, and there are some serious rigs here.
Including custom Iveco fifth wheelers and some of those two axle Kimberley Kampers.

[gavinwibrow]

Curiosity is killing me. Is is a Kimberly Kamper?

We're stuck in Esperance due to fires along with every other rv heading east, and there are some serious rigs here.
Including custom Iveco fifth wheelers and some of those two axle Kimberley Kampers.
No, a full caravan, and a bit unusual Piazza | Royal Flair Caravans (http://royalflair.net.au/piazza-4/)
It's the first one SWAMBO likes after several years searching following on from the sad sale of my GMC 4107 bus/trailer combo.
There goes a fair part of the super. Delivery now due just before Christmas - the guy who builds the veranda is on holidays for a month mid construction.

[Homestar]

Looks to be a good functional coupling!
And you don't have to remove the standard tow ball!
A win, win!


Cheers, Mick.

While I agree it does have benefits, I personally don't like standard balls as the locking arrangement to stop them coming off isn't ideal, although in practice, very few come off - but it has happened to me so I'm a little gun shy and it's the biggest reason I'm getting something else for the van. This arrangement would overcome the biggest issue of that happening which is severe articulation of the hitch on the ball, which can't happen in this case though. Also, something that uses a standard ball only has one locking point.

I'm still tossing up between the McHitch or going to a eye on the van to suit the pintle on the 101. I'd then just stick a spare pintle on the RRC.

And before anyone says it - no, the very occasional noise a pintle makes does not bother me but I understand why others don't like it.

[Shortyesquire]

No, a full caravan, and a bit unusual Piazza | Royal Flair Caravans (http://royalflair.net.au/piazza-4/)
It's the first one SWAMBO likes after several years searching following on from the sad sale of my GMC 4107 bus/trailer combo.
There goes a fair part of the super. Delivery now due just before Christmas - the guy who builds the veranda is on holidays for a month mid construction.

Wow that is a palace! I bet your wife would hate our tiny Tvan, except the mattress...

Quick plug to the Madison Times Square from Snooze. Excellent bed with titanium springs and comes in low profile. If you're in Perth call in to Matt at Claremont, excellent guy.

Back on topic. That Hyland hitch you posted would have the same problems as normal towball in many respects. One of the big ones would be no dampening between caravan and tow vehicle.

Tregg and D035 have poly blocks as part of mechanism and this would provide some dampening. We have a redarc tow pro and even with our light Tvan you notice that the braking is never quite in sync, but it never translates into jerkiness. Speed humps and other obstacles are also smoothed out a lot.

[DoubleChevron]

While I agree it does have benefits, I personally don't like standard balls as the locking arrangement to stop them coming off isn't ideal, although in practice, very few come off - but it has happened to me so I'm a little gun shy and it's the biggest reason I'm getting something else for the van. This arrangement would overcome the biggest issue of that happening which is severe articulation of the hitch on the ball, which can't happen in this case though. Also, something that uses a standard ball only has one locking point.

I'm still tossing up between the McHitch or going to a eye on the van to suit the pintle on the 101. I'd then just stick a spare pintle on the RRC.

And before anyone says it - no, the very occasional noise a pintle makes does not bother me but I understand why others don't like it.

You can hear a pintle hook rattling when driving a 101 :confused: :confused: I would have thought you couldn't hear a passenger .... that's sitting beside you screaming into your ear :twisted: :p :p

I don't get the need for offroad couplings on 2.5ton+ caravans. After all, there is no way your pulling them down any sort of bush track that requires lots of articulation :wasntme:

seeya,
Shane L.

[Homestar]

That's the thing - a pintle doesn't rattle constantly - only when the front of the trailer unloads going over a bump. There is no front to rear movement, only about 1/8" above the eye, so they aren't as bad as everyone makes out. And, yes, we can have a conversation in the 101 easily - I have terraphones installed... :D

Even though my van is an on road van, I've dragged it down plenty of tracks to get it to where we want to camp - usually tracks that are only 100's of meters long and what you'd call 'Easy'or very small bits of 'Medium' at the most, but it means I get to camp in some nice places. Doing this, I've tested the limits of a standard hitch and ball more than once. The van handles the tracks no problems - you just tip toe into where you need to go - good wheel placement gets you a long way. 2.5 tonnes would be a different story, but I bet you'd get it in and out of the Potato patch with the RRC without and issue. :)

[letherm]

a pintle doesn't rattle constantly

What the hell is a pintle - I am not a caravaner :p

Martin

[Homestar]

What the hell is a pintle - I am not a caravaner :p

Martin

Pintle hooks aren't generally used on caravans - its a Military style coupling. Very strong, and it's design means it can't come apart once locked and gives a huge amount of articulation.

[Aaron IIA]

If you get a pintle hook, make sure it is a rotating pintle hook, with a fixed ring on the trailer.

Aaron

[DoubleChevron]

That's the thing - a pintle doesn't rattle constantly - only when the front of the trailer unloads going over a bump. There is no front to rear movement, only about 1/8" above the eye, so they aren't as bad as everyone makes out. And, yes, we can have a conversation in the 101 easily - I have terraphones installed... :D

Even though my van is an on road van, I've dragged it down plenty of tracks to get it to where we want to camp - usually tracks that are only 100's of meters long and what you'd call 'Easy'or very small bits of 'Medium' at the most, but it means I get to camp in some nice places. Doing this, I've tested the limits of a standard hitch and ball more than once. The van handles the tracks no problems - you just tip toe into where you need to go - good wheel placement gets you a long way. 2.5 tonnes would be a different story, but I bet you'd get it in and out of the Potato patch with the RRC without and issue. :)

Potatoe patch is just a nice gravel road for access. We should be able to get pretty much any 'van in there so long as it's dry. No way would I get mine in/out of there if damp. On All Terrains I barely got out last time not towing :) They just churn and slip on top of the slush.

seeya,
Shane L.

[RoverLander]

Have you tried leaving a door open while you hitch/unhitch? Eg. Turn D3/D4/RRS off, leave driver's door open, unhitch, start car and drive half a metre forward... close door and then the car will adjust height.

FWIW, my camper came with a 2T AL-KO off road hitch.
AL-KO Off Road Couplings (http://www.alko.com.au/vehicle-technology-catalogue/couplings/off-road-couplings/)
It is similar to the Hyland hitch, but has a plastic locking sleeve which is used to lock the centre while hitching/unhitching. I like the design as I don't have to change the ball - so I can tow our boat or box trailer without changing anything.

Yes i leave the drivers door open as i hitch and unhitch. I thought it would stop the height adjustment but it definitely still makes minor adjustments.

[LRD414]

Yes i leave the drivers door open as i hitch and unhitch. I thought it would stop the height adjustment but it definitely still makes minor adjustments.
The door open must be combined with selection of a different suspension height in order to keep the suspension from adjusting/self-leveling.

So for example, select Off Road height when in Normal height and immediately open the door and keep it open (vehicle running). Same would be true if going from Normal to Access. The vehicle is waiting for all doors to be closed before continuing with the height change. Once you're happy, close the door and the previously selected height change will be completed.

Scott
.

[gavinwibrow]

I don't get the need for offroad couplings on 2.5ton+ caravans. After all, there is no way your pulling them down any sort of bush track that requires lots of articulation :wasntme:

seeya,
Shane L.

Hi Shane, and I hope it never happens to anyone, but I see one of the benefits is of not trying to force the car to follow via the to hitch if the van rolls side on - perish the thought.
I do expect to pull our van through creeks etc. Cheers Gavin

[gavinwibrow]

[QUOTE=Shortyesquire;2456602]Wow that is a palace! I bet your wife would hate our tiny Tvan, except the mattress...

Not meaning to hijack thread.

Actually, she likes the TVan, but too small for her and grandies.

We too have a brilliant mattress tempur type locally sourced/made.

We don't have some of the more esoteric stuff shown in the video (it's the owners personal 24' van shown, and needs a US truck to pull it - his is over 3.5T, and now for sale), plus they now extend the towbar about 300 mm beyond the deck so that in an emergency any vehicle, including those with rear protrusions eg tyres can quickly move it out of trouble with the deck open.

[Fluids]

My lowly D2a won't change the rear SLS suspension height if a door is open.

Engage Off-road height, it starts raising, open door to get out it stops. Close door, it restarts. Walk to back of Disco, and when the hitch is at the right height, open back door and SLS stops raising. Great for hitching up single handed :)