EGR Removal

[inken_dave]

Most likely this have been covered before, but hopefully somebody can fill me in!

I want to remove the EGR valve from my 2.2 Puma. I don't want to get anymore performance from my 2.2, just don't want it to suck it's own fumes!

I have read too many articles on how this reduced engine life!

How can this be done? I assume that the computer will need to be told not to clean it or operate it so that no error codes are returned?

Anyway, if anyone have removed the unit, I appreciate the feedback!

Cheers!

[tact]

Most likely this have been covered before, but hopefully somebody can fill me in!

I want to remove the EGR valve from my 2.2 Puma. I don't want to get anymore performance from my 2.2, just don't want it to suck it's own fumes!

I have read too many articles on how this reduced engine life!

How can this be done? I assume that the computer will need to be told not to clean it or operate it so that no error codes are returned?

Anyway, if anyone have removed the unit, I appreciate the feedback!

Cheers!

Hey. I went looking for the same thing, just a way to disable the EGR, not really looking for more power etc.

Cutting the search story short: I went for a BAS ECU remap. This solved the EGR matter by simply reprogramming so as to be calling for 0% EGR valve opening whenever the engine is running normally.

The BAS remap does not inhibit the ECU from opening the EGR in extraordinary situations - as it is programmed to do. An example of this is to reduce engine output to avoid engine damage. Apparently a feature.

The BAS remap for 2.2 TDCis requires a new (unlocked) ECU to be fitted (10min job even for the mechanically inept). Result being your original ECU, untouched by the remap, can be kept aside as a spare. Bonus!

The BAS autobiography tunes transform your Defender's driving experience - smooths out a lot of jerking related to throttle curves and throttle response. Another bonus!

Oh... Extra ponies are actually nice too

[inken_dave]

Hey. I went looking for the same thing, just a way to disable the EGR, not really looking for more power etc.

Cutting the search story short: I went for a BAS ECU remap. This solved the EGR matter by simply reprogramming so as to be calling for 0% EGR valve opening whenever the engine is running normally.

The BAS remap does not inhibit the ECU from opening the EGR in extraordinary situations - as it is programmed to do. An example of this is to reduce engine output to avoid engine damage. Apparently a feature.

The BAS remap for 2.2 TDCis requires a new (unlocked) ECU to be fitted (10min job even for the mechanically inept). Result being your original ECU, untouched by the remap, can be kept aside as a spare. Bonus!

The BAS autobiography tunes transform your Defender's driving experience - smooths out a lot of jerking related to throttle curves and throttle response. Another bonus!

Oh... Extra ponies are actually nice too

Thanks Neil! Yes I've herd that the BAS remap will achieve this! Does your remap reduce the power and throttle response in low range? The original ecu does, and it certainly protects the drive train from the full 380Nm!

I was hoping to remove the function of the EGR, without the power increase! Sounds funny, but personally I think, that you don't get something for nothing! I think everything from the engine backward will last longer with the reduced power?

Thanks for your response! If you don't mind, how much approx do I need for a BAS remap?

[JDNSW]

Should this thread have a link to the one on VW's sins?

John

[jackdef90]

Thanks Neil! Yes I've herd that the BAS remap will achieve this! Does your remap reduce the power and throttle response in low range? The original ecu does, and it certainly protects the drive train from the full 380Nm!

I was hoping to remove the function of the EGR, without the power increase! Sounds funny, but personally I think, that you don't get something for nothing! I think everything from the engine backward will last longer with the reduced power?

Thanks for your response! If you don't mind, how much approx do I need for a BAS remap?

Ive got a map that just closes egr, I agree with you about the performance increases, they're not really needed if you use the vehicle for off-roading.
Mines a 2.4 tdci I have a box that had 3 tunes on it one is a performance tune one is egr closed only and one is original. I like the egr closed only one as with the performance tune you can trick yourself into using higher gears where you shouldn't be.

[tact]

Thanks Neil! Yes I've herd that the BAS remap will achieve this! Does your remap reduce the power and throttle response in low range? The original ecu does, and it certainly protects the drive train from the full 380Nm!

I was hoping to remove the function of the EGR, without the power increase! Sounds funny, but personally I think, that you don't get something for nothing! I think everything from the engine backward will last longer with the reduced power?

Thanks for your response! If you don't mind, how much approx do I need for a BAS remap?

The BAS remap seems to leave the low range throttle curves alone. My bum-dyno may be out of calibration - there may be a more power/torque available but I haven't really noticed much difference at all when in low range (and I have the 170hp/450NM tune and larger intercooler fitted)

As for increased power meaning reduced longevity for the engine and drive train: Likely correct in the real world. But imagine if you were able to control your right foot very well, you can self limit the engine output to any figure you like, above or below the stock tune 120hp/380NM.
(i.e. My engine is not making anywhere near 170hp or 450NM when I am tripping along at any reasonable speed with the throttle barely cracked open - which is a largish % of my vehicle's run time.)

For price information have a look at the thread in the link below. There was a group buy earlier in the year. Looks like it might get revived again:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/group-buy/220944-new-bas-remap-tool-group-buy-pumas-only.html#post2372516

[nickden]

Hey. I’m looking to get a BAS ECU remap for my 2012 110 defender, as I have had the engine light in for almost a month now with the error being the EGR. Thought it would be worth while getting rid of it all together instead of having to replace it.

An error for a misfire in cylinder 4 has been occurring also, even after I just recently had the injector replaced. Wondering if this could be linked to a failing EGR valve?

Just wondering if anyone could recommend a good mechanic in melbourne who good do the BAS ECU remap ?

[MLD]

Hey. I’m looking to get a BAS ECU remap for my 2012 110 defender, as I have had the engine light in for almost a month now with the error being the EGR. Thought it would be worth while getting rid of it all together instead of having to replace it.

you can remove the EGR and heat exchanger. In some respects it would be easier to do that than to replace only the EGR (tight fit). You put a blanking plate on the exhaust manifold and on the inlet pipe. Blank off the coolant hoses or re-route those that are connected to something else down the line. Re-tune the ECU as discussed. If you do not retune the ECU it will go into limp mode when it works out the EGR is faulty (like it does when the EGR packs it in). Keep the EGR unit and plug it in for diagnostic testing. I learned the hard way when i couldn't complete a pump learn. plugged in the EGR and the learn went through.

While a retune is easy, reversible and the sensible approach, the heat exchanger is still contributing to heat to the cooling system and with the EGR blanked off the exchanger will clog up with carbon deposits. Depending on how long the EGR is turned off, you might find you are putting chunks of carbon back into the inlet manifold when you return the EGR to normal function.

[DiscoMick]

Not meaning to be a spoilsport, but just keep in mind that removing the EGR makes the vehicle technically unroadworthy as it would fail the emissions test, which could have registration and insurance consequences if it ever became an issue in a dispute, particularly if you do not inform your insurer of the modification. Plenty of people choose to ignore this, but it's still true and should be considered in making the decision. Up to you ...