Any tips for running wiring through chassis?

[iClick]

I need to install a brake controller ASAP (read tomorrow!) and try as I might I couldn't get a pull line through the chassis to feed the cable through. I'd liked to have tried some yellow tongue but had to settle for some fencing wire to feed a line through the LH Chassis but it was getting stuck around level of the rear wall of the cab (130 D/C) Nothing I tried would prevent it hitting a snag.

At well as running the two core back for the Brake Controller I'm planning on running some 6BSS, AV for rear view cam and a some other power for work lights etc.

I'd appreciate any tips on how to get a leader through - my next option is just to bundle it all and run it in some split tube over the top of the chassis. :confused:

[Toxic_Avenger]

Time is not on your side...

Buy a length of split conduit and stuff everything into it. Run it along the chassis, inboard side.
Depending on how much remaining time you have up your sleeve, consider wrapping in tape to keep the dust and dirt out.
Either zip tie to existing cabling (unsure what this looks like on the 130), or buy the extra long zip ties and wrap around the whole chassis. She won't be pretty, but will last until you can have a better crack at it.

Zip tying to existing wiring is the method I used to ruin winch cables around my 90, and just today I ran some twin 6 gauge and some 7 core trailer wire. I used 16mm conduit and it was a tight fit.

[Xtreme]

I'd recommend keeping your wiring outside the chassis - easier to trace & repair faults & doesn't trap dust/water/mud inside chassis which is difficult to remove & would end up giving more trouble than having your wiring external.

[iClick]

The factory loom runs through the other chassis so nothing easy to piggyback. I think long cable ties and split tube over the chassis rail will be my friend tomorrow. I had hoped that there would be a sneaky trick to running cables through the chassis that I'm overlooking. :)

[iClick]

I'd recommend keeping your wiring outside the chassis - easier to trace & repair faults & doesn't trap dust/water/mud inside chassis which is difficult to remove & would end up giving more trouble than having your wiring external.

Just saw your post after making mine. Good points about mud and it makes me rethink how I wash down the vehicle and clean inside the chassis rails. I might've been a little to thorough in the past. :angel:

[SG1 Bones]

How about fixing some aluminum square or round tube to your chassis via your method of choice and then run your cables through that it would be like your chassis in a way but you won't have to worry about mud/water rusting it out.

Just a thought,
Nathan.

[austastar]

Hi,
I brought a rear camera feed (12V + image) from the rear to the cab through the left chassis rail. A couple of lengths of fencing wire through various holes got it through, and I pulled the wires in conduit through easily.
This is on a Puma 130 cab chassis.
Cheers

[jackdef90]

run wiring outside the chassis, and put cable protector over it, just make sure you secure it adequately with ties. There is no need to run it inside chassis rail, its wont get damaged.

[Tote]

The yellow joining strip from a piece of chipboard flooring makes a good makeshift snake for running cables if you have one lying around...

Regards,
Tote

[Aaron IIA]

The yellow joining strip from a piece of chipboard flooring makes a good makeshift snake for running cables if you have one lying around...

Regards,
Tote

I'd liked to have tried some yellow tongue but had to settle for some fencing wire to feed a line through the LH Chassis
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[jon3950]

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EI?