Airbag man rear suspension fitted

[simmo]

hi guys just a short report on the fitting etc of my new rear suspension.
Fitting the bags is fairly straight forward, follow the instructions.
I fitted them a couple of days ago and there's no change in pressure so no leaks, all good so far.

The change in ride with the airbags is very noticeable, I had OME 2" lift kit and shockers all round, and that was a great improvement in the original land rover suspension, ( the gut busters!). But the ride was still fairly choppy at light load, especially at the back.
I initially tried 28.5 LHS and 30psi RHS as a starting point , but landy was slighlty down at the back. ( fuel tanks almost empty.)

I'm now at 35 psi both sides both tanks full, ( std main tank & 42 liter sill tanks on RHS), and landy is slightly up at the back, ( maybe a couple of cm.). When put the spirit level across the roof she's dead level. but when measured on the bump stops shes down on the RHS a few mm.:confused:
Currently I'm adjusting the bags using an air compressor manually, but the D-2 guy are the doyens of air ride, and they are helping work out an in cabin system using D-2 parts.

My impression so far is good, much smoother riding, and standard looking ride height, before landy always rode a bit high at the back unless loaded. So at the back I have the best of both worlds, I can drive around comfortably and normal ride height, ( about +2 "), and have not have the choppy ride at the back. When i load up just add some air to maintain the ride height.
Ben and Leon at airbag man have always been available on the phone to offer advice, and the dispatch service was very good.

next thing to try is to lower the suspension onto the bump stops to see if the car will fit under the house.:) cheers simmo

[simmo]

some defender Tdi, 110 ride heights for you interest;

OME; 2" lift
Back of the roof height; light load, half fuel tanks recovery gear some spares etc. (LL)about 1980 mm. makes you very nervous in the car parks, you can notice the car is higher at the back.

air bag suspension;

at about 35 psi; full fuel tanks, back of car roof at 1940 or 1950 car looks original and level, maybe up at the back slightly by a cm.

at 10 psi the car is on the rear bump stops back of the car is 1860 high. A reduction of 5" over the OME, for parking under the house. the highest part of the car is now the roof above the drivers door, about 1900.

[Babs]

Are you guys talking about replacing springs with an airbag set up or are you adding airbags inside the back coils❓

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[furianer]

Simmo,

Have you tested the setup on a stretch of corrugated road fully loaded

The D2 rear air suspension system is brilliant, having a simplified system in a 110 or Disco1 would be one of the more useful accessories

[Ranga]

Are you guys talking about replacing springs with an airbag set up or are you adding airbags inside the back coils❓

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Good question - Simmo, you got inner coil bags or coil replacements?

I've got full coil replacements, and on the 130 are great for the vastly differing load weights.

[Babs]

Good question - Simmo, you got inner coil bags or coil replacements? I've got full coil replacements, and on the 130 are great for the vastly differing load weights.

Thanks Ranga.

Did you lose or gain any wheel travel with the airbags replacing the coils?

Do you have airbags right round or just the back?

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[Chenz]

I fitted them inside the upgraded coils on my 130 to accommodate the extra load of the Trayon camper.

When loaded up I run them at about 35psi and it is very smooth. With the dual shocks it cuts out the bounce when going over uneven ground. Good thing is when I drop off the camper I let them down to about 15psi and it rides smooth as a sedan.

It has made such a difference to the ride. I could not recommend them highly enough
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/84.jpg

[simmo]

on the back axle I have full airbag replacement, no springs, the OME shockers seem to be working OK with the airbags, though we haven't done anything demanding yet.
I have the solenoids etc from a D=2, but have some questions about that. what fitting fits into the solenoid valves, so you can join the hoses (1/4")?.

my solenoids were supplied bare with no hoses or connection fittings in the solenoid blocks. ( might have to consult the masters on D-2 forum)

I have a controller with rocker switches and a dual needle pressure gauge, and have made the circuit diagram, we plan to set the whole thing up on an old door for test then transfer to the car. But have many things to do, and need to wait until people are back at work, to get the fittings etc. cheers simmo

[defmec]

What is the body roll like with the airbags?

[simmo]

Hi defmec, I can't say I notice any difference with body roll. My defender has no anti roll bars front or rear. I'm not sure if they should be there or not. They weren't there when I got he car. she does lean a bit in the corners but probably less than the early RRCs I drove.

[rick130]

Hi defmec, I can't say I notice any difference with body roll. My defender has no anti roll bars front or rear. I'm not sure if they should be there or not. They weren't there when I got he car. she does lean a bit in the corners but probably less than the early RRCs I drove.

FWIW Tdi 110's didn't have anti-roll bars fitted here, only 130's.

[weeds]

dunno how i missed this thread.......

just fitted my kit today, manual inflation ATM but have the digital in-cab controller to fit once i sort the new dash out and permanently mount the compressor ........will post a new thread with my thoughts and tips

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi Simmo and Weeds
I am in the process of fitting air suspension to my Defender 6 x 6 build up, I have an accu air controller and new bags for the rear but acquired a second hand fitting kit for one axle. The top spacer/bracket is 25mm tall but have been told the Air Bag man kit has 35mm top bracket.

Can you confirm? Or, is there a more desirable height of the bracket?

I have noticed that on the old bags there is a rubbing area which appears to be from the angle of the chassis spring mount as it runs down to the bottom of the chassis rail. It is opposite on the bags/brackets which would indicate that it is either the front or the rear on both sides. There is significant rubbing down to the cord which will reduce the lifespan of the bag.

Do either of you (or anyone else) have a similar wear pattern?

Is there a solution? (e.g. a protective plastic or rubber skirt between the bracket and bag.)

[Ranga]

Do either of you (or anyone else) have a similar wear pattern?

I was able to compare my installation (W01-358-5426, Firestone Reversible Sleeve Air Spring, Firestone Air Bag 5426 | TruckSpring (http://www.truckspring.com/products/Firestone-Reversible-Sleeve-Air-Spring__W01-358-5426.aspx) - same bags as yours) to Weeds' today (W01-358-5422, Firestone Reversible Sleeve Air Spring, Firestone Air Bag 5422 | TruckSpring (http://www.truckspring.com/products/Firestone-Reversible-Sleeve-Air-Spring__W01-358-5422.aspx)). Although they both state the same diameter, by eye mine looked fatter than Weeds. My bags are close to rubbing on the bump-stop plate that's welded onto the outside vertical section of the chassis (<5mm). Weeds' seemed to clear this by about 20mm. This indicates that the Airbag man top plate is offset outwards further than mine. I also have some almost inperceptible rubbing on the front and rear of my bags from the spring hanger webs, but nothing I'm worried about.

Also, Weeds' top plate (~65mm from memory) is taller than mine (52mm). This means the Airbag man top plate is a bit taller than mine.

Ultimately, by offsetting and perhaps heightening the top plate some more, you should remain clear of all possible rub points.

Hope this helps.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Thanks Ranga

The rubbing on mine is from the same web you speak of but only on one side not both so obviously the bracket is not centred fore and aft.

Just went an measured the brackets and the height is 33mm my recollection of 25 mm is the width of the flat bar used to space the top and bottom plates. (After that, analysed the bag and bracket with the air line fitting to find that the rubbing is likely the front web.)

Do you think it's worthwhile re-manufacturing my bracket plus another for the third axle or just go to the Air Bag Man?

[Ranga]

Thanks Ranga

The rubbing on mine is from the same web you speak of but only on one side not both so obviously the bracket is not centred fore and aft.

Are you sure? I would have thought the worst chance of rubbing would be against the chassis.

Do you think it's worthwhile re-manufacturing my bracket plus another for the third axle or just go to the Air Bag Man?It comes down to effort mostly. If you're a tight-arse like me, and have the skills (unlike me), you'd just do it yourself. Perhaps it's false economy, and you're best off just getting them from Airbagman?

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Thanks Ranga

The rubbing on mine is from the same web you speak of but only on one side not both so obviously the bracket is not centred fore and aft.
Are you sure? I would have thought the worst chance of rubbing would be against the chassis.
My automatic (pedantic) response is that both the web and the bump stop bracket are "the chassis" :D :D but in my non-pedantic self, I understand you were talking about the bump stop bracket.

However on closer inspection, we're both correct, it's rubbing on both the web and the bump stop bracket. (See piccies)

[isuzurover]

Diana, are they custom brackets or the airbagman setup?

FWIW mine (custom setup) have been rubbing slightly since I installed them 6 years ago. I have never gotten around to adjusting/tweaking the brackets. No problems though despite lots of offroad work / towing / heavy loads.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi Ben

The person I got them off told me they were the first prototype brackets by someone but I don't know if that was the Airbag ban or someone else.

What I paid was essentially the cost of a single new bag without postage and I got the brackets two old bags and a new unused bag.

Diana

[simmo]

I finished the control set up for my airbags, it works well, I control each bag from rocker switches mounted on the base of the cubby box.

Thanks to the guys in the disco 2 forum who gave me advice along the way.

individual bags on the way up.
both bags go down when I push either rocker switch.

it will lift the car from the bump stops to normal ride height in 30 seconds.

lowering to the bum stops takes a minute or so.

the car is easy to level up, it st sits high on the driver side until i get in.

the little level gauge is a bit primitive but it works :)

cheers simmo

[weeds]

Hey simmo, is all that wiring just to control the bags?? If so holy smokes.

I'm about to install airbag mans in car controller, only one wire from memory and you can lower the bags individually.....only thing is the air lines are run into the cab.

I run 35/40 in mine empty.....bumped it up to 50 with camper hitched up, three kids and a fridge.....I see they recommend a minimum ride height for the bag which makes it sit quite high, I have settle for 180mm

Out of interest which shocks are you running??

[steveG]

Where are the valves Simmo - I couldn't spot them in those photos.
Have you got them somewhere near the bags?

Steve

[simmo]

The solenoid valves are a standard disco 2 SLABS unit, ie a compressor solenoid valve for each of the two rear bags, plus a down solenoid. its mounted under the LHS rear passenger set. I used the electric plane to make the bottom flush is the only modification to it. It's 100 % original, so I can easily get parts, the unit cost $100 from MR automotive.

The gauge, (twin needle 0-50 psi)and rocker switchs came from gumtree or ebay from a company in victoria i think, maybe another $100. there is 2 x 4 mm lines, ( land rovers std size), that connect them to the suspension on each side that com up through the floor.

The wiring is mostly for the suspension, but 2 of the 4 relays are spares, "for future use", there is also a voltmeter/ twin phone charger as well. Another twin phone charger is in progress for the back seat.

Of the 2 working relays one is for the suspension, one is for the compressor control, (40 amp). The other is the "master",(30 A), when the ignition key is turned on the panel is powered up for "control power", switches, gauge light and relays control power.

The "small consumers", the voltmeter and phone charger are unswitched, and remain on even when the car is turned off.
The power for the panel is fed from the battery to the panel via circuit breaker, with fuses on the various circuits. you can see the fuse panel in the center of the picture.

It takes 21 psi to lift the car off the bump stops. ( I put the car on the bump stops to park it under the house occasionally)

The axle is clear of the bump stops by 100 mm at 31-32 psi, and the back lip of the roof is 2000 mm above the floor. Thats my normal driving condition for light load and around town.
I don't see any real need to drive around on the road with he back sticking up in the air.That means too much air pressure and not a nice ride IMV.

The ride on the back axle reminds me of an old range rover, I hardly even feel the road bumps on the back, but still notice them on the front, the OME springs and shockers were a vast improvement on the LR suspension it came with second hand. ( it was the HD version i think).

My car has an OME 40 mm lift at the front, with 32 psi in the rear bags the car is slightly high at the back maybe one inch.

I'm still using my old OME nitrochargers, they are still working well, but have an easy life now. If I go on a long offroad trip i think I'll have to replace them.

[weeds]

Thanks for the detailed explanation....do you have manual inflation valves as well?

[simmo]

yes they are on the tow bar I used them for a year before i fitted the new controls.
cheers simmo