2014 D4 in Limp Mode

[Bradmc]

Hi Guy's,

Hoping to get some advice to ease my anxiety.

I have a 2014 SDV6 that is currently in Engine Limp Mode. The issue started a week ago with error codes U0001 & U0100. Scanned by a NRMA service rep.

The car was taken to Land Rover for repair and the issue highlighted by the service department was a faulty Engine fuse.

The car was subsequently driven approximately 60kms without any issue, but today the car went back into Limp Mode. No camping this holiday period.

I have a number of accessories on the car and was wondering if there is a history with any of those that i have fitted that may be causing the engine issue.

Note: The accessories have been on the car for over 8 months with no issues.

I have fitted to the car:

Dual Battery (yellow top) with Redarc charger (solar);
Warn Winch
Snorkel
Spot Lights - all fitted by a reputable dealer.

Could the Dual Battery setup cause an issue? Or is there something else that may potentially be causing the issue e.g. faulty ECU etc.

I am worried this could be one of those ongoing issues that never seem to get sorted. I live in Sydney, and the car will be taken back to a local LR Service next week.

I just hope they have the skills to sort it.

[LandyAndy]

With your dual battery system,how is it connected to the main battery????
Andrew

[Bradmc]

Hi Andrew,

I am not a real technical guy. The system was installed by my local ARB centre, so i presume they know what they are doing.

I guess my concern is if the Redarc charger was at fault could that cause the issue.

Both batteries are in good condition and have been load tested, so kinda ruling out a low battery problem.

[Eevo]

The system was installed by my local ARB centre, so i presume they know what they are doing.

lol.
sorry, i found this funny.

[LandyAndy]

Hi Andrew,

I am not a real technical guy. The system was installed by my local ARB centre, so i presume they know what they are doing.

I guess my concern is if the Redarc charger was at fault could that cause the issue.

Both batteries are in good condition and have been load tested, so kinda ruling out a low battery problem.

Have a look.Its quite important.NO auxilary wiring at all can be connected to the negative terminal of the main battery on these vehicles.It must be done via earthing studs,there are spares next to the main battery for this.
ARB are not likely to know that;););););)
Andrew

[Pedro_The_Swift]

If the redarc has been fitted for 8 months,,
I doubt its the problem,,
Tomorrow may bring more help---

and
Thanks for your help Eevo:rolleyes:

[Bradmc]

Thanks Andrew,

I will look in the morning. The system has been on the car for approx. 8 months and has been working fine though. I have run a fridge and other accessories off the secondary battery in that time.

I would think if it was wired incorrect, the fault may have come up when installed?? Again, I'm not technical so........

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Obviously googleing the errors is no help?

[LandyAndy]

Brad,there are a few on here very clued up on the electronics of these vehicles,as Pedro says,they should be along tommorow.
I just had a google,one of those codes relates to the can bus system,ie the nerves of the vehicle where all the messages are sent,the other loosing contact with the engine ECU.
It may well be something simple,the brake light switch can be an issue which can cause alot of strife.
Any other info you have may help,like has the engine been washed lately,driven in water or mud etc.
GOODLUCK
Andrew

[SBD4]

U0001-88


High Speed CAN Communication Bus - Bus off
Bus off
Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the power and ground connections to the module. Using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system, complete a CAN network integrity test. Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the CAN network


U0100-00


Lost Communication With ECM/PCM "A" No sub type information
No sub type information
Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the power and ground connections to the module. Using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system, complete a CAN network integrity test. Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the CAN network between the engine control module and traction control module

Likely to be an intermittent earth issue. As Andrew has said check that they have installed the DBS correctly and not earthed directly to the -ve terminal of the battery. Also, if the have been pulling cables around in that part of the car (behind the battery) it may be possible that they have put some strain on the harness for the ECM that may be failing only now.

Does limp mode reset after you switch the car off for a short period?

[Bradmc]

Hi All,

It doesn't look like there is any cables/wires from the DBS to the negative on the main battery. see pics

As for "does the car reset". It didn't reset the first time it happened, just prior to sending it to LR Service.

Yesterday, it did not reset immediately, however this morning. I started the car with NO engine warning light present. I drove the car approx. 6kms and it seems ok ATM.

My wife mentioned that the first time it happened we were driving and the rear tailgate (top) was not closed properly (we stopped to close it), and yesterday we opened the rear tailgate to put a parcel in the back, whilst the engine was running. Obviously i dismissed my wife comments :D But could this be the one in a million things she says have some relationship to the issue?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/191.jpg (http://s923.photobucket.com/user/bradmc2002/media/thumb_IMG_3527_1024_2.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/192.jpg (http://s923.photobucket.com/user/bradmc2002/media/thumb_IMG_3531_1024.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/193.jpg (http://s923.photobucket.com/user/bradmc2002/media/thumb_IMG_3526_1024%202_1.jpg.html)

[Bradmc]

Update: Drove another 10kms this morning and engine has gone back into Limp Mode: :(

[drivesafe]

Hi Brad and first off, you might try temporarily disconnecting the dual battery setup and try a hard reset, then try another drive.

If everything seems OK, without turning the motor off, go and open your tailgate.

If the D4 goes back into Limp Mode, as others have suggested, you may need to check all your cable connections.

[drivesafe]

Hi again Brad and just out of curiosity, if you don't mind, how much did they charge you for that setup and what did you get?

[drivesafe]

Hi again Brad and sorry, I forgot to ask the obvious.

Do you have a digital multi meter?

If so, take some voltage readings at your cranking battery both before and during a limp home episode.

There is actually a D4 software issue that could cause the same outcome.

[Bradmc]

Hi Drivesafe,

The Redarc system would of cost me around $1400 (fitted), however i bought the winch, bullbar and snorkel at the same time and had it all fitted together, so got a bit of a discount.

The setup entailed all the DBS (incl battery) with an anderson plug to the rear to connect a solar panel and an extra 12v outlet for fridge etc.

As and FYI, i do have one of your systems in my garage (i never installed it). If you really have to ask ... i was too lazy and was going to on sell it, which btw i never have. Might use it in my next car :)

I do have a multi, so will take some readings and post them up.

[drivesafe]

OK Brad, see if the voltage goes over 12.2v or if it sits around 12.2v.

As posted, there is a known software problem where the alternator is working but the BMS control of the alternator's voltage gets stuck at 12.2v.


I have also set you a PM.

[Mungus]

Sorry for those that have read this too many times, but do you have rear air-con Brad? A link to the thread below or the following extract. Hope you sort the issue soon.


"What he (the tech - my newest best friend) found, was where the rear a/c unit is located behind the left cargo space panel, a cable loom that runs under the a/c unit was being squashed and rubbing on the metal body, wearing through the Canbus cables and intermittently shorting to earth. He has moved the a/c unit slightly higher, put some of that door seal strip over the panel joint edge and insulated the worn/cut insulation. Car was cleaned and I was just as excited to get her back as the day I picked her up. The report will be sent to LRA who will most likely include the cause for diagnosis of future similar issues, but for any MY14 owners out there with rear a/c, keep this in mind if you ever lose your dash cluster, stereo, a/c, windows and door locks." or other weird electrical faults it also seems!


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/202141-no-brake-lts-hazards-etc-auto-h-lts-long-hard-reset-2.html

[LRD414]

Similar to Mungus' post re wire abrasion, I would also have a look under and around the aux battery tray. There are wiring looms close by that may have been rubbed or cut. But not sure if your symptom would be caused by such a shorting issue.

Scott

[Bradmc]

Update: The car has been running fine the last few days. I've done approx. 60kms of testing and the car drives as normal.

I did test the main battery this afternoon after it had been sitting idle for 4 odd hours, and it was at 12.37v.

Could it be the main battery (2yrs old) is on its way out and the aux battery is topping it up over time? The aux battery was at 12.7, noting I had a car fridge connected; was wanting to see if the DBS was draining the main somehow.

I'll test the main again in the morning.

I do not have dual aircon. But I did notice some premature wear on the Anderson plug wire loom that runs to the rear of my car. Taped it up as a precaution.

Planning on a day trip tomorrow around Lithgow, if it's going to fail again, that's the time it will �� Oh well, who dares wins.

[Stuart02]

Update: The car has been running fine the last few days. I've done approx. 60kms of testing and the car drives as normal.

I did test the main battery this afternoon after it had been sitting idle for 4 odd hours, and it was at 12.37v.

Could it be the main battery (2yrs old) is on its way out and the aux battery is topping it up over time? The aux battery was at 12.7, noting I had a car fridge connected; was wanting to see if the DBS was draining the main somehow.

I'll test the main again in the morning.

I do not have dual aircon. But I did notice some premature wear on the Anderson plug wire loom that runs to the rear of my car. Taped it up as a precaution.

Planning on a day trip tomorrow around Lithgow, if it's going to fail again, that's the time it will 😀 Oh well, who dares wins.

Enjoy your drive, I just went for a potter with the family along the Turon to Sofala today, very pleasant. Lemme know if it doesn't go so well and you need a pick up. Any excuse to get back out in the bush :)

[Piddler]

Howdy,
Battery's are cheap sounds like worth putting one in anyway if its 2 years old. Will let you down sooner or later.

Cheers

[Celtoid]

Sorry for those that have read this too many times, but do you have rear air-con Brad? A link to the thread below or the following extract. Hope you sort the issue soon.


"What he (the tech - my newest best friend) found, was where the rear a/c unit is located behind the left cargo space panel, a cable loom that runs under the a/c unit was being squashed and rubbing on the metal body, wearing through the Canbus cables and intermittently shorting to earth. He has moved the a/c unit slightly higher, put some of that door seal strip over the panel joint edge and insulated the worn/cut insulation. Car was cleaned and I was just as excited to get her back as the day I picked her up. The report will be sent to LRA who will most likely include the cause for diagnosis of future similar issues, but for any MY14 owners out there with rear a/c, keep this in mind if you ever lose your dash cluster, stereo, a/c, windows and door locks." or other weird electrical faults it also seems!


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/202141-no-brake-lts-hazards-etc-auto-h-lts-long-hard-reset-2.html



I was amazed how affected my old D4 was by a wee bit of electricity discharging where it wasn't supposed to. It was a long story and took LR a while to find the issue but in the end an earth lead was arcing UNDER the connector. I think it was probably loosened off during the couple of body-off turbo changes I had. I was shown an electrical cable where the connector looked perfect from above but was badly burned underneath.


My symptoms included:

Radio channels changing all by themselves.
Windows changing direction when any door was opened mid operation.
A 'static discharge' like noise coming through the sound system. This made myself and LR suspicious that something had not been connected properly after the turbo operations but they supposedly checked everything they had touched.
Headlights flashing of their own accord .... which culminated in a conversation with the Boys in Blue when I 'flashed' them as they drove past :confused:.
But the weirdest one was a really rough gear change from 3rd to 4th .... don't ask me how that worked but it was always between these gears unless driven manually. I'd had the adaption software reloaded several times which would fix things for a short period of time and then the car would start mucking around again.

As soon as the earth lead was replaced, I had no more issues.....it was such a relief. :)

[Bradmc]

Update: drove from inner-west Sydney to Lithgow and back today. (approximately 200kms). No issues with the car in the bitumen, however; on the rough stuff I got the following faults .. Stability Control not available .. Emergency Brake Assist not available .. HDC not available.

The faults came up maybe 6 times, in particular when the car hit a big pothole or was jolted. I was able to turn the car off and the fault cleared until the next jolt. Reset every time after restarting the car.

Back to LR Service in the New Year.

[LRD414]

Brad, if a dealer finds that one of your accessories has led to a shorted wire, it may become an expensive exercise. I would have a close look around your dual battery setup just in case you can find the issue and have it repaired by the installer at no cost to you. You are no worse off if you find nothing.

Scott

[Bradmc]

Will do Scott. I will remove the aux battery and have a look around prior to sending it off to LR.

Thanks
Brad

[LandyAndy]

Will do Scott. I will remove the aux battery and have a look around prior to sending it off to LR.

Thanks
Brad

Brad.
Have a look around the dual battery system,see if there are any connectors they may have disturbed during the instal.It sounds like a loose connection when you say bumps are triggering the faults.
GOODLUCK
Andrew

[drivesafe]

As posted above, just be careful if taking it to the dealer.

LRA have now stopped dealers fitting anything that is not an LR part, so they may have to charge you for anything they deem as not being a warranty problem.

If you check out your wiring, start with the earth on the auxiliary battery. Find out where that goes, because, from the photos, that setup looks a bit strange.

They have a heavy negative cable on your auxiliary battery, but the only heavy positive cable is attached to your cranking battery.

Again, find out where they have connected the earth cable coming from your auxiliary battery and see where they have run the heavy positive cable coming from your cranking battery.

[Bradmc]

Drivesafe, the heavy positive to the main battery is from the winch. I am about to operate on the DBS, I'll let you know how I get on.

Thanks to all you have posted, i really appreciate the advice I receive.

DBS has been disassembled, i found these two wires from the Redarc charger with exposed ends. They are not meant to be connected, but could this cause a short?

I will run the car for a couple of days to see if the car registers any faults. Hopefully this is the cause of the issue.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/16.jpg (http://s923.photobucket.com/user/bradmc2002/media/IMG_3553.jpg.html)

Edit: Drove the car after disassembling the DBS, and drove over a speed hump at speed to give the car a jolt, following fault codes appeared as per yesterday: Stability Control not available .. Emergency Brake Assist not available .. HDC not available.

Frustrating.

[Bradmc]

It's not the DBS and it's not the winch, both have been disconnected.

Car still in fault mode. Next!?

It's something loose. It only happens when the car is jolted e.g. Going over a speed hump a little aggressively or when on rough tracks. :(:mad:

[LRD414]

Loose earth lead?

There are two earth studs just in front of cranking battery box.

There is also one behind the kick plate trim panel by the drivers foot. This one is used in the Traxide setup I have, so could be used for your DBS and be loose (factory earth cables are on it). Even if not used for DBS I guess it could be loose.

What about your cranking battery negative lead? Shouldn't need to be touched but could have been. And the positive too.

Scott

[Bradmc]

Hi Scott,

Main battery terminals are tight. I will check behind drivers kick plate as you mentioned.

My DBS was earthed on the body in the engine compartment. I have totally removed the DBS; so that is a non issue now.

Thanks
Brad

[LRD414]

On mine, the power cable to the rear uses the A pillar kick plate earth stud. So I would have to check this one even if the aux battery was disconnected. Yours may be different.

[LandyAndy]

Brad.
Have you got an electric trailer brake controler??? Only ask as they have to be wired to Land rover specs,its way different from what a normal Auto Elec would consider.
Andrew

[Bradmc]

Hi Andrew,

No electric brake controller; it's my next install when I get the car sorted.

[Meken]

Rear aircon? What about the wires that run through under the rear aircon? If it's only on jolts maybe it's a bared wired touching something on the jolt ?

[LandyAndy]

Hi Andrew,

No electric brake controller; it's my next install when I get the car sorted.

When you do,make sure you read the D4 trailer brake thread in the stikys up top.Some very important info there.
Ive just tried towing with my Redarc Tow Pro,the trailer brakes are much more noticeable than behind the D2 which had a Technosha Prodigy.Very happy.
Andrew

[scarry]

Rear aircon? What about the wires that run through under the rear aircon? If it's only on jolts maybe it's a bared wired touching something on the jolt ?

Someone else on here had an issue with the wires pinched near the rear AC,on a late model D4.

The other thing you could do,is get the vehicle running stationary,with someone sitting in the drivers seat,and start wiggling every wiring harness accessible.
Then if the fault comes up you may be able to pinpoint where the issue is.

I know this is grasping at straws,but it may help locate the fault

[LandyAndy]

Someone else on here had an issue with the wires pinched near the rear AC,on a late model D4.

The other thing you could do,is get the vehicle running stationary,with someone sitting in the drivers seat,and start wiggling every wiring harness accessible.
Then if the fault comes up you may be able to pinpoint where the issue is.

I know this is grasping at straws,but it may help locate the fault

Somebody bouncing the vehicle may also help too.
Perhaps a friendly nearby D4 pilot could help with the research,it could help us all out into the future;););););););)
What area do you live in???
Andrew

[SBD4]

Perhaps try re-seating the fuses and relays - you never know. Also check what work was done on your last service, it might point you to an area they may have touched. The errors seem very "brake switchy" to me, check switch is properly positioned/plugged in - replace if in doubt, it's very cheap. What about wiring for the trailer plug? was that touched at all? could be a short back there.

[Graeme]

U0001-88


High Speed CAN Communication Bus - Bus off
Bus off
Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the power and ground connections to the module. Using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system, complete a CAN network integrity test. Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the CAN network


U0100-00


Lost Communication With ECM/PCM "A" No sub type information
No sub type information
Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the power and ground connections to the module. Using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system, complete a CAN network integrity test. Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the CAN network between the engine control module and traction control module


From the WSM...

'Bus off' DTCs
The references to bus and its condition refer to the network concerned and the modules on that network.
If a module logs a 'Bus Off' DTC, it means that the module has detected CAN transmission errors and has disabled its's
own CAN transmissions and disconnected itself from the network in an attempt to allow the rest of the network to
function. At this point the 'Bus Off' DTC is set. A common cause of 'Bus Off' DTCs can be a short circuit in the CAN
network.

[LRD414]

Main battery terminals are tight. I will check behind drivers kick plate as you mentioned.

My DBS was earthed on the body in the engine compartment. I have totally removed the DBS; so that is a non issue now.


Noting Graeme's post, did all wiring looms around and potentially under the aux battery tray look ok? Any abrasion? I think you said no rear a/c so not like Mungus. If not happening near battery then it may be difficult to trace. Any other areas been worked on?

Scott

[Bradmc]

I don't have rear aircon or electric trailer brake controller.

I have removed the whole DBS, and the wiring around that area looks fine. I have disconnected the winch. The only other accessory I have is spot light; don't believe that to be an issue as the wiring looks fine. Note: I've had all these accessories on the car for over 8 months.

I did change the rear pads two months back, and brake warning wire looks fine, I would not think that would cause the issue I am having anyway.

I will have a wiggle of the wires today. The car went into full limp mode yesterday evening, so it would not start until after I disconnected the battery; although engine light remains in fault. I am predicting I will be clear this morning.

I live in the inner-west of Sydney btw.

[drivesafe]

From what you have posted, I don't think the DBS itself is the problem, as others have posted, the problem may be a result of the way the DBS was installed.

BUT, I think Graeme is probably on the right track and you may have some wiring that has rubbed through somewhere and is causing a temporary short.

Unfortunately, this is a common fault with LR's manufacturing "skills"

There are plenty of reports of this type on problem occurring in the UK and the USA and here as well.

This one is one you will most likely have to sort out with the dealer.

I had something similar where the suspension in my 07 RR never worked from the day I drove it out of the showroom, and no matter how many times I raised the problem, neither the dealership or LRA gave a hoot.

I eventually found the problem, a deformed wire loom connector and my $170.000 RR's suspension was finally working thanks to a 10c cable tie.

Do as much detective work you can do yourself, and then take it up with the dealer.

[drivesafe]

BTW, one of the more common problems is the wire loom being crushed near the driver's seat, when they fix the driver's seat in place.

You stated you checked the tailgate and this seam to fix the problem.

I wonder if you actually getting out of your seat, to check the tailgate, was "fixing" the problem.

[Bradmc]

Car is now in normal mode as predicted. Had my wife sit in the car whilst I wiggled all the wiring looms and connections I could find, even under the car.

Checked the wiring beside drivers foot well, all seemed OK.

I have ruled out the tailgate as a problem as I've tested the theory many times now.

The issue is beyond my level of knowledge now, so off to LR on Monday. I'll let you all know how I get on.

[Meken]

So you've already removed the aftermarket gear & it's under warranty - off to the dealer - I'd take them for a drive through somewhere where you know it happens so you can show the dealer first hand it occurring - otherwise you might get an "unable to replicate fault" response - loan car until they fix it.

[Graeme]

Just reading the ABS fault codes should provide a good starting place to look.

[RoverLander]

Are you using an OBDII diagnostic unit? I had some canbus problems when an OBDii reader used a conflicting protocol on the CanBus. It was a Bluetooth OBDII reader from a well known manufacturer though not specific for LandRover.

[LandyAndy]

Are you using an OBDII diagnostic unit? I had some canbus problems when an OBDii reader used a conflicting protocol on the CanBus. It was a Bluetooth OBDII reader from a well known manufacturer though not specific for LandRover.

Incase you are unaware,these vehicles run a second canbus system,it doesnt meet international protocols,could explain why your OBDII reader has problems talking to the Land Rover.
Andrew

[RoverLander]

Yes that would probably explain it. I will have to go back and have a look at my emails. It was 4 years ago. It was something to do with the reader autodetecting the protocol but selecting the wrong protocol. Once i manually set it to the correct protocol it was fine. The Reader could only read selected information so it was probably not reading the info on the second canbus system you mention.


Incase you are unaware,these vehicles run a second canbus system,it doesnt meet international protocols,could explain why your OBDII reader has problems talking to the Land Rover.
Andrew

[LandyAndy]

Yes that would probably explain it. I will have to go back and have a look at my emails. It was 4 years ago. It was something to do with the reader autodetecting the protocol but selecting the wrong protocol. Once i manually set it to the correct protocol it was fine. The Reader could only read selected information so it was probably not reading the info on the second canbus system you mention.

From what Gordon said on his course,its the entertainment system that runs the second canbus system.
Andrew

[Bradmc]

I don't have a reader. The initial fault codes were from the NRMA service guy. The other faults I mention are what comes up on my dash.

[Bradmc]

Hi All,

Just a thought from reading other threads. Could my issues be caused by a faulty wheel speed sensor?

Anyway, car is off to the dealer tomorrow. LR Care have arranged a tow and, they have also dropped off a Range Rover Evoque today for us to use while the D4 is off the road.

Props to Land Rover Care.

[Graeme]

A faulty wheel speed sensor would cause the ABS faults but not the ecm canbus shut-down faults. The ABS ecu not receiving ecm messages on the can-bus would also cause the ABS messages.

[Bradmc]

2 days in at LR and no word, it might have them baffled.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/820.jpg (http://s923.photobucket.com/user/bradmc2002/media/Mobile%20Uploads/082DA31B-D30F-42E6-BECC-0C379095C759.jpg.html)

:(

[Stuart02]

2 days in at LR and no word, it might have them baffled.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/820.jpg (http://s923.photobucket.com/user/bradmc2002/media/Mobile%20Uploads/082DA31B-D30F-42E6-BECC-0C379095C759.jpg.html)

:(

Gulp. How's the loaner?

[Bradmc]

Gulp. How's the loaner?

Hehe, my wife said it is much quieter than the D4, but it is still no D4 :D

She is a good woman. :)

[Bradmc]

Update: Car has been in at LR for 5 days. To be fair, I am not sure they have been working on it for 5 days, as it was towed in and was an unexpected arrival; so it may have been back in the queue of other vehicles booked in.

The issue they believe is a faulty Steering Angle Sensor (that may have been draining the battery). Part is ordered and i should have the car back on Monday.

Anyone have issues with that part causing similar issues?

Anyway, I will update the post when I get the car back and do a bit of my own real world testing; as in driving it.

[Bradmc]

Car is back. 😀

Multiple fault codes were logged in the system - U0001-88 High Speed CAN-BUS off / SASM (steering angle sensor) fault causing system to throw HDC and ABS faults.

Steering Angle Sensor replaced.

Car seems to be fine now. Now to reinstall my DBS.

[Eevo]

i love a happy ending!

[Bradmc]

As a side note: During this little experience I got to drive a Land Rover Sport and the Range Rover Evoque.

If I was to choose between the two, it would be the Evoque for me. It is quieter and a little more road friendly. I didn't take either offroad, so no comparison to be made in that department.

Cheers.

[Bradmc]

Update: Car back in limp mode.

Picked the car up from LR service on Tuesday, going back via tow truck today:(

HDC, Stability Control, Emergency Brake, all not available are the faults coming up on the dash.

Starting to get worried about this car. Hopefully 3rd times a charm.

[BobD]

I don't think anyone has mentioned it previously on this thread but it could well be the brake light switch. This seems to be difficult to trace when looking only at fault codes because a whole lot of faults get thrown up when the circuits don't open after starting to accelerate, making the car think your foot is on the brake at the wrong time.


Very easy and cheap to fix but hard to diagnose, especially if they haven't experienced it before. This is intermittent until it gets really bad and then the car is un drivable and all sorts of faults get thrown up on the dashboard. When I had the problem, they said it was a software update. They did the update and then the car stopped at the first corner where I used my brakes (which happened to be 10km away coming off the freeway) and I ended up being trucked back to the dealer. This time they diagnosed the brake switch and that has fixed it for the next 140,000km. I now carry a spare one but haven't had a problem since.

[RoverLander]

Update: Car back in limp mode.

Picked the car up from LR service on Tuesday, going back via tow truck today:(

HDC, Stability Control, Emergency Brake, all not available are the faults coming up on the dash.

Starting to get worried about this car. Hopefully 3rd times a charm.

Hi, any update please on what is happening? Are you back on the road? Did they find something?

[Bradmc]

Update:

The car is still in at LR service.

I was told the car was driven extensively yesterday (Wednesday) and seemed to be ok. They were going to remove different Modules today and try and replicate the faults, must of replicated, because they still have it, and i have not had an update today.

Not sure what to think ATM. :(

[LRD414]

Not sure what to think ATM. :(
Brad, this is the worst part I think .... not knowing what is wrong.
Query them about the brake light switch as per BobD's post.
It may not be part of the standard diagnostic protocol they are probably following.
Good luck. I have one the same year and understand your pain.

Scott

[Bradmc]

Hi Scott,

I left a note on the passenger seat about the Brake Light Switch and referenced the forum :)

The note also explained the sequence of events leading up to the car registering the faults and the warning lights they came on.

When i did speak to the Service guy, he did mention my notes were of use and they are definitely looking into the things i noted.

Cheers, i will update as things progress. I am going to the Snowy's this weekend, so kinds feel disappointed but relieved to not have the D4; i was kinda worried about it going into fault so far away from home.

The Brand New Disco Sport loaner we have will have to suffice. We received it with 59km's on it; they may get a surprise when they get it back with over 1000k's on it :D

[LRD414]

The Brand New Disco Sport loaner we have will have to suffice. We received it with 59km's on it; they may get a surprise when they get it back with over 1000k's on it
Well that's good .... we'll expect a report on how the Sport goes in due course you know.:)

Scott

[plusnq]

Hi Scott,

I left a note on the passenger seat about the Brake Light Switch and referenced the forum :)

The note also explained the sequence of events leading up to the car registering the faults and the warning lights they came on.

When i did speak to the Service guy, he did mention my notes were of use and they are definitely looking into the things i noted.

Cheers, i will update as things progress. I am going to the Snowy's this weekend, so kinds feel disappointed but relieved to not have the D4; i was kinda worried about it going into fault so far away from home.

The Brand New Disco Sport loaner we have will have to suffice. We received it with 59km's on it; they may get a surprise when they get it back with over 1000k's on it :D


Lol. We did that with a new Disco last year. They gave us it as a loaner and we told them we had booked at Rainbow beach.No worries they said. A great weekend with quite a few good photos of a new red Disco along the tracks and the beach. Over 700k logged for the weekend :)

[Bradmc]

Update: Picked the D4 up today. :)

The report indicates it was an earthing issue, as a few of you have indicated it may well be.

A connector (C0376) located on chassis rail at the N/S/R wheel arch area was not "fully home". A drag test was carried out and the test found insufficient drag on C0376-31 pin.

The connector was replaced and a CAN Network test was performed; all OK. Extended road-tests were undertaken (approx 200km), upon request to me by LR and which I agreed to. I was told the car was driven home each night by the tech with a computer attached, checking for faults; no faults recorded.

I really hope the car is all OK, and I can feel confident in it taking the family and myself on many more adventures on and off road.

Fingers crossed. :)

[LRD414]

Hopefully they got it this time. Did some googling .... C0376.

Seems it's a connector on the loom for the parkbrake [EPB]. And it's connected to the HS canbus if I'm interpreting the attached wiring diagram properly.

These Disco3 threads are not the same symptoms as you but your symptoms do potentially make sense considering Graeme's earlier post about the canbus.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - EPB connectors (C0390/C0376 and C0868/C0903) (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic100761.html)
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - EPB Fault In Wet Conditions (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic97249.html)

Regards,
Scott